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Our research indicates that this deal is $200 less (22% savings) than the next best available price from a reputable merchant with prices starting from $899 at the time of this posting.
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
On Wednesday I received my RP-1400SW that I ordered last Saturday from this deal. Box was looking good, looked well treated in shipment.
Then today my RP-8000F pair from the other deal arrived. Was getting excited connecting everything up and getting it settled in the right place. First test run and the light on the front of the unit powered up but zero sound from it. I spent an hour going over the connections. When trying the LFE from my receiver I would only get the sides making audio. Same with the test tones. Then I took the known good rca cable from the mixer/controller and put them directly in to the sub and nothing. Out of ideas I then tried to call Klipsch but closed for the holidays.
So I opened a ticket on their support site, sad that I was probably looking at an RMA and a lot of hassle. I opened the ticket and after I did so it directed me to some FAQ articles on a variety of things. One of them was how to troubleshoot the amp. https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en...-Subwoofer
I did the buzz test in the article and didn't get anything from the sub. I didn't think I really wanted to open it up since it was brand new, but I figured that the next section that explained the way to check for a loose wire pretty much gave me permission to open it up. (Be careful to unplug the LED connector before you pull it too far away, you only have a few inches slack).
Fun surprise,... the positive cable was broken off from the terminal as shown in the pic (the terminal is in front of the right big black capacitor and the red wire is in the background). One trip down the road to get a crimp tool from the hardware store later and it is good as new, but a bit frustrated. Just wanted to share unless someone else got one like it.
This thing really shakes the house in the best possible way, so far it's really great.
Your current sub only goes down to 28hz at -3dB. The RP-1400SW goes down to 16hz at -3dB. You are paying the extra money to hit down into subsonic frequencies.
I'm woefully uneducated in the audio dept. I have some cheap Yamaha receiver (rx-v385)and a pair of Jamo Concert C93 Series 2 speakers which it seems my receiver can hardly drive.
I'm assuming I'll need to open my wallet a bit after dropping $700 on a sub.
Can you throw this in the trunk of a car? I'm having a mid-life crisis and want to be a middle-aged guy bumping some trap-music through my suburban neighborhood, hopefully embarrassing my sons in the process.
I mainly want it for my home.
I'm not rich but I'm at a point where I'm thinking of purchasing a $700 sub and upping my audio game. If anyone has suggestions on a bare-bones setup that doesn't come with some asburb audio snob cost, I'd appreciate it.
It is self powered so it drives itself, but if you're needing to buy a receiver and surround speakers, providing your budget would probably be the best way of getting advice on the best system you can build.
If you're on a tight budget though, getting the Samsung Q990c soundbar when it is ~$850 is probably the best value you can get. Audiophiles may poopoo on that advice, but it really can't be beat for the money when it is on sale.
Last edited by leecm November 19, 2023 at 06:32 AM.
Would this be overkill to pair with the RP-8000F and 504C I just got? They sound great without a sub and wasn't plan on getting one (my bic f12 died) but this sounds like it might be a one chance deal. People seem to suggest the 200-300 dollar subs aren't worth buying. And the ones in $500 range don't seem to be on much of a sale.
Can anyone speak to how this performs compared to a monolith 12 v2?
Would it be advisable to pair this with a monolith 12 or is it better to have 2 subs that are the same brand and model
I can confidently say the Klipsch RP1400 would out perform the Monoprice 12v2. 2 of the same brand sub would be best. But if you were to try and mix the brands. Make sure to get a Umik and a Minidsp. And have a lot of time to put in the work to make them sound great together.
Last edited by thehundredsslc November 19, 2023 at 07:11 AM.
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Quote
from mwbarrett85
:
Would this be overkill to pair with the RP-8000F and 504C I just got? They sound great without a sub and wasn't plan on getting one (my bic f12 died) but this sounds like it might be a one chance deal. People seem to suggest the 200-300 dollar subs aren't worth buying. And the ones in $500 range don't seem to be on much of a sale.
Would this be overkill to pair with the RP-8000F and 504C I just got? They sound great without a sub and wasn't plan on getting one (my bic f12 died) but this sounds like it might be a one chance deal. People seem to suggest the 200-300 dollar subs aren't worth buying. And the ones in $500 range don't seem to be on much of a sale.
Definitely not overkill at all. It would be a perfect match unless you go with something like a HSU, Rythmik, or PSA which would give you more output, but more expensive.
I generally don't recommend subs under 700 to people, as they are usually a waste of money and not worth it. Better to save up and get a sub that will actually pull its weight (like this one) than to buy crappy subs, try to resale, lose out on money and have to save up again to buy the "bigger" one that they should've bought in the first place.
While your RP 8000F's do well without a sub, for HT it is definitely recommended to get a good sub for real bass, which will give you a whole new experience.\.
Would this be overkill to pair with the RP-8000F and 504C I just got? They sound great without a sub and wasn't plan on getting one (my bic f12 died) but this sounds like it might be a one chance deal. People seem to suggest the 200-300 dollar subs aren't worth buying. And the ones in $500 range don't seem to be on much of a sale.
I have those same speakers (plus RP-600M II rears). They're fine without a sub, but way better with a sub.
So this or a pair of SVS PB-1000 Pro's. I see why this Klipsch is such a good deal but I can't justify spending $1500 on subs. I found a pair of the PB-1000 Pros for $950.
It's actually not that bad for a 14". Compared to the Monolith M12 v2, the Klipsch is less than an inch deeper, and inch shorter, and 30lb lighter. The width is the main thing that stands out about the Klipsch's footprint. It is 3+ inches wider than the M12.
I just upgraded my setup from the R-610f, R-52c, RM-41 to the RP-8000f RP-504c, and the RP-600m, now the question is should I replace my dual R-100SW setup for one of these now and add a second later?
The two subs I have now are definitely entry level - wondering how one sub of the RP-1400sw would do - night and day difference I imagine?
Last edited by _Durandal_ November 20, 2023 at 08:00 AM.
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It's actually not that bad for a 14". Compared to the Monolith M12 v2, the Klipsch is less than an inch deeper, and inch shorter, and 30lb lighter. The width is the main thing that stands out about the Klipsch's footprint. It is 3+ inches wider than the M12.
Yea that m12 I briefly had was pretty large. Stupid heavy.
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Then today my RP-8000F pair from the other deal arrived. Was getting excited connecting everything up and getting it settled in the right place. First test run and the light on the front of the unit powered up but zero sound from it. I spent an hour going over the connections. When trying the LFE from my receiver I would only get the sides making audio. Same with the test tones. Then I took the known good rca cable from the mixer/controller and put them directly in to the sub and nothing. Out of ideas I then tried to call Klipsch but closed for the holidays.
So I opened a ticket on their support site, sad that I was probably looking at an RMA and a lot of hassle. I opened the ticket and after I did so it directed me to some FAQ articles on a variety of things. One of them was how to troubleshoot the amp. https://support.klipsch
I did the buzz test in the article and didn't get anything from the sub. I didn't think I really wanted to open it up since it was brand new, but I figured that the next section that explained the way to check for a loose wire pretty much gave me permission to open it up. (Be careful to unplug the LED connector before you pull it too far away, you only have a few inches slack).
Fun surprise,... the positive cable was broken off from the terminal as shown in the pic (the terminal is in front of the right big black capacitor and the red wire is in the background). One trip down the road to get a crimp tool from the hardware store later and it is good as new, but a bit frustrated. Just wanted to share unless someone else got one like it.
This thing really shakes the house in the best possible way, so far it's really great.
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I'm woefully uneducated in the audio dept. I have some cheap Yamaha receiver (rx-v385)and a pair of Jamo Concert C93 Series 2 speakers which it seems my receiver can hardly drive.
I'm assuming I'll need to open my wallet a bit after dropping $700 on a sub.
Can you throw this in the trunk of a car? I'm having a mid-life crisis and want to be a middle-aged guy bumping some trap-music through my suburban neighborhood, hopefully embarrassing my sons in the process.
I mainly want it for my home.
I'm not rich but I'm at a point where I'm thinking of purchasing a $700 sub and upping my audio game. If anyone has suggestions on a bare-bones setup that doesn't come with some asburb audio snob cost, I'd appreciate it.
If you're on a tight budget though, getting the Samsung Q990c soundbar when it is ~$850 is probably the best value you can get. Audiophiles may poopoo on that advice, but it really can't be beat for the money when it is on sale.
Would it be advisable to pair this with a monolith 12 or is it better to have 2 subs that are the same brand and model
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank thehundredsslc
I generally don't recommend subs under 700 to people, as they are usually a waste of money and not worth it. Better to save up and get a sub that will actually pull its weight (like this one) than to buy crappy subs, try to resale, lose out on money and have to save up again to buy the "bigger" one that they should've bought in the first place.
While your RP 8000F's do well without a sub, for HT it is definitely recommended to get a good sub for real bass, which will give you a whole new experience.\.
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https://www.avsforum.co
Ordered an spl12 from Adorama a couple years ago and was damaged. Then ordered a monolith 12 and it had like zero output.
The two subs I have now are definitely entry level - wondering how one sub of the RP-1400sw would do - night and day difference I imagine?
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