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Our research indicates that this deal is $200 less (22% savings) than the next best available price from a reputable merchant with prices starting from $899 at the time of this posting.
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
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On Wednesday I received my RP-1400SW that I ordered last Saturday from this deal. Box was looking good, looked well treated in shipment.
Then today my RP-8000F pair from the other deal arrived. Was getting excited connecting everything up and getting it settled in the right place. First test run and the light on the front of the unit powered up but zero sound from it. I spent an hour going over the connections. When trying the LFE from my receiver I would only get the sides making audio. Same with the test tones. Then I took the known good rca cable from the mixer/controller and put them directly in to the sub and nothing. Out of ideas I then tried to call Klipsch but closed for the holidays.
So I opened a ticket on their support site, sad that I was probably looking at an RMA and a lot of hassle. I opened the ticket and after I did so it directed me to some FAQ articles on a variety of things. One of them was how to troubleshoot the amp. https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en...-Subwoofer
I did the buzz test in the article and didn't get anything from the sub. I didn't think I really wanted to open it up since it was brand new, but I figured that the next section that explained the way to check for a loose wire pretty much gave me permission to open it up. (Be careful to unplug the LED connector before you pull it too far away, you only have a few inches slack).
Fun surprise,... the positive cable was broken off from the terminal as shown in the pic (the terminal is in front of the right big black capacitor and the red wire is in the background). One trip down the road to get a crimp tool from the hardware store later and it is good as new, but a bit frustrated. Just wanted to share unless someone else got one like it.
This thing really shakes the house in the best possible way, so far it's really great.
Your current sub only goes down to 28hz at -3dB. The RP-1400SW goes down to 16hz at -3dB. You are paying the extra money to hit down into subsonic frequencies.
ELI5 why? Especially vs what is supposed to be a much better sub?
I'm looking at setting up my own home theater in a 16x30 room with a 160" screen and a 4K projector and while the screen and projector aren't too difficult to choose, the whole audio setup is exceptionally complicated. Especially with a large room where we're using half for a chilling area/theater and the other for like ping pong and a bar.
5.1.2, 7.1.4, 9.2.4, etc. It's all getting to be a lot I'm about to just do a 5.1.2 with some upfiring floors and a big woofer, especially since I'm probably just going to run conduit on a wall so I don't kill myself running wiring, lol
That's a good sized room. I built a 7.2.4 home theater in my old house with a smaller room than that. This Dolby pdf helped a lot. You don't have to be perfect, but balance what you can. An AVR with good room correction software like Dirac Live goes a long way. 2 subs are definitely better than 1. I read a lot about room treatment bc that really helps the software not have to work as hard. Mix of soft and reflective panels, carpet, throw rug go a long way. I used JBL subs, JBL in wall and ceiling speakers. I really miss it, especially on Sunday for 4 screens of football. A lot of work, but it really helped bump up the value of the house though.
I'd be tempted to jump on this but powered subs are so much easier.
I've had three speedwoofers fail on me in 5 years. Just for reference. Customer service handled returns each time but still a hassle.
Have had two 10S for three years and have not been that nice to them, but they are still working great. Returning any subwoofer will be a hassle in the context we're talking about, so it is worth mentioning again that their customer service is awesome. I had a wireless transmitter from RSL that I suspected was faulty, they sent me another, told me to keep the old one even though my issue persisted with the new one which turned out to be external to the transmitter or my audio system. It is hard to go wrong with SVS, RSL, or Klipsch in terms of warranty when dealing with them direct from my personal experience.
Was interested until I learned that the so-called 14" driver, this diameter is measured from the frame edges rather than mid-surround or cone edge. So not truly a 14" sub, also, what else is Klipsch exaggerating? the amplifier power? who knows? - the BS-ing just turned me off.
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Was interested until I learned that the so-called 14" driver, this diameter is measured from the frame edges rather than mid-surround or cone edge. So not truly a 14" sub, also, what else is Klipsch exaggerating? the amplifier power? who knows? - the BS-ing just turned me off.
Someone on YouTube bench tested these klipsch amps and they do rated RMS power.. also the speaker diameter is not a biggie, most speaker manufacturers make drivers this way
ELI5 why? Especially vs what is supposed to be a much better sub?
I'm looking at setting up my own home theater in a 16x30 room with a 160" screen and a 4K projector and while the screen and projector aren't too difficult to choose, the whole audio setup is exceptionally complicated. Especially with a large room where we're using half for a chilling area/theater and the other for like ping pong and a bar.
5.1.2, 7.1.4, 9.2.4, etc. It's all getting to be a lot I'm about to just do a 5.1.2 with some upfiring floors and a big woofer, especially since I'm probably just going to run conduit on a wall so I don't kill myself running wiring, lol
Because rooms have frequency null zones depending on your placement of your sub. There is almost always some, so 2 subs in different parts of the same room can even out for a more smooth frequency line/curve. You can measure your room and sub with the app REW and a decent mic plugged into your laptop.
Lighter is not a good thing when it comes to subwoofers and enclosures. Unless you're concerned about saving weight in a vehicle. That's why I was running a neodymium subwoofer and light birch plywood for that system. If this is 30lbs less Klipsch skimped on something, probably bracing which isn't good. I'm not saying one performs better than the other but I'm guessing this could have been a much better subwoofer which would have raised the price too so it's a catch-22.
I highly doubt you have heard this sub in person. I've heard the RP1400 and 1600 in person. And they perform very well. Now I know you said nothing about performance. But I don't see any reason to even question the integrity of the structure of the enclosure. And at this price point it's one of the best values on the market right now. Now if we are talking full retail price. Then obviously there are better options.
Last edited by thehundredsslc November 24, 2023 at 05:13 AM.
I highly doubt you have heard this sub in person. I've heard the RP1400 and 1600 in person. And they perform very well. Now I know you said nothing about performance. But I don't see any reason to even question the integrity of the structure of the enclosure. And at this price point it's one of the best values on the market right now. Now if we are talking full retail price. Then obviously there are better options.
This or SVS pb 1000 pro. A neighbor is selling the svs on 1000 pro for 450 what do you suggest?
Haven't heard the Svs pb1000 pro in person. So just my opinions off of specs and what I've only heard in person. I'd pick the Klipsch RP1400 all day till the sale ends.
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This or SVS pb 1000 pro. A neighbor is selling the svs on 1000 pro for 450 what do you suggest?
I have a PC2000 Pro in another room, and the RP-1400SW absolutely murders it on both output and clarity. I have a LOT of port noise with the SVS and so far zero on the Klipsch.
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Then today my RP-8000F pair from the other deal arrived. Was getting excited connecting everything up and getting it settled in the right place. First test run and the light on the front of the unit powered up but zero sound from it. I spent an hour going over the connections. When trying the LFE from my receiver I would only get the sides making audio. Same with the test tones. Then I took the known good rca cable from the mixer/controller and put them directly in to the sub and nothing. Out of ideas I then tried to call Klipsch but closed for the holidays.
So I opened a ticket on their support site, sad that I was probably looking at an RMA and a lot of hassle. I opened the ticket and after I did so it directed me to some FAQ articles on a variety of things. One of them was how to troubleshoot the amp. https://support.klipsch
I did the buzz test in the article and didn't get anything from the sub. I didn't think I really wanted to open it up since it was brand new, but I figured that the next section that explained the way to check for a loose wire pretty much gave me permission to open it up. (Be careful to unplug the LED connector before you pull it too far away, you only have a few inches slack).
Fun surprise,... the positive cable was broken off from the terminal as shown in the pic (the terminal is in front of the right big black capacitor and the red wire is in the background). One trip down the road to get a crimp tool from the hardware store later and it is good as new, but a bit frustrated. Just wanted to share unless someone else got one like it.
This thing really shakes the house in the best possible way, so far it's really great.
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How much of a difference would upgrading to this sub be? It goes 16 - 141 hz .
I'm looking at setting up my own home theater in a 16x30 room with a 160" screen and a 4K projector and while the screen and projector aren't too difficult to choose, the whole audio setup is exceptionally complicated. Especially with a large room where we're using half for a chilling area/theater and the other for like ping pong and a bar.
5.1.2, 7.1.4, 9.2.4, etc. It's all getting to be a lot I'm about to just do a 5.1.2 with some upfiring floors and a big woofer, especially since I'm probably just going to run conduit on a wall so I don't kill myself running wiring, lol
I'd be tempted to jump on this but powered subs are so much easier.
https://www.dolby.com/siteassets/...8_r3.1.pdf
83lbs
21" x 20" x 26"
500 watt rms class D amplifier
5 year warranty
Not sure why they didn't use a standard 15" driver. When this goes out of warranty, and if the driver fails, a 14" will be very hard to source.
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I'm looking at setting up my own home theater in a 16x30 room with a 160" screen and a 4K projector and while the screen and projector aren't too difficult to choose, the whole audio setup is exceptionally complicated. Especially with a large room where we're using half for a chilling area/theater and the other for like ping pong and a bar.
5.1.2, 7.1.4, 9.2.4, etc. It's all getting to be a lot I'm about to just do a 5.1.2 with some upfiring floors and a big woofer, especially since I'm probably just going to run conduit on a wall so I don't kill myself running wiring, lol
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