Bass-Reflex via Exclusive Front-Firing Internal Flare Port for placement flexibility
High Efficiency Class D Amplifier with 400W RMS/ 800W Peak
Compatible with Klipsch WA-2 Wireless Kit
Premium Scratch-Resistant Finish in Ebony
Shock-absorbing rubber feet, steel grille posts and a woven cloth grille for a premium look and feel
Speaker Type: Compact Subwoofer
Product SKU:
kp1067308
power_type:
Active Subwoofer
size:
15"
speaker_type:
Compact Subwoofer
whats_in_the_box:
Klipsch SPL-150 15" 800W Subwoofer (Ebony Vinyl)
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Look to HSU or SVS for legit subs. My two HSU VTF-2 MK5 have been going strong for a long time, and they are around this price point (a bit higher than the sale price).
you'll be shocked and awed when you see how much better these 15 inch subs are.
I have 3 of these. They've all failed. Two purchased new both died within 9 months. Klipsch sent free replacement amps, but I just don't think it's worth the headache and uncertainty. The new RP line has already seen some good discounts and I'm sure we'll see more offers in the future.
Question for folks with failed amps…did ya'll leave this in "auto" turn on mode, or "off" when not in use? I wonder if it's these amps' sitting idle, but their power supplies "on" constantly that wears out the capacitors, etc, over time. I've got a klipsch sub from several years ago and I have a little switch that I plug the amp into to stop all electricity going to it unless I'm actually using it and it's lasted for years. Just wondering…
Question for folks with failed amps…did ya'll leave this in "auto" turn on mode, or "off" when not in use? I wonder if it's these amps' sitting idle, but their power supplies "on" constantly that wears out the capacitors, etc, over time. I've got a klipsch sub from several years ago and I have a little switch that I plug the amp into to stop all electricity going to it unless I'm actually using it and it's lasted for years. Just wondering…
I use switched power as well, as I was already aware of the amp problems before purchase. The subs only get power when my receiver is powered on.
I use switched power as well, as I was already aware of the amp problems before purchase. The subs only get power when my receiver is powered on.
Ahhh. Interesting. So how many hours of actual "powered on" time do you think your's had before they failed? Had to just be a handful of hours, yes? That's would be crazy. Thanks!
Last edited by LovelySparrow901 December 13, 2023 at 08:39 AM.
My two cents: Subs with integrated amps CAN be okay. But given the choice, I'd always opt for an outboard amp. Even a cheap Behringer class-d will cleanly drive just about anything out of its box. My last project was a "super x-max whatever whatever" driver from Parts Express and (aforementioned) amp, I paid Hexibass from youtube to design an enclosure for the driver/amp combo and my chosen F3 and it murdered the SVS SB13 Ultra that was in its place. If you've got the tools and the gumption to do something like that, I mean, it'll be YOURS
The woofer is large and it is also designed to be sensitive ----> to play louder with less power. The cabinet is large so it easily can be tuned at a low frequency.
This actually is much harder to do in a smaller cabinet which is why you often see 'passive radiators' vs ports. Passive radiators cost much more to manufacture vs ports and thus raise the retail price but do not offer a performance gain over a simple port, it is just difficult to fit a proper sized port with a low tuning frequency in a small box due to the length/size of the port tube.
So those subs with dual passive radiators on the side that make them look supercharged do not offer any performance gain over a sub in a larger box and low tuned ported design.
The large box and sensitive woofer and ported design all combine to allow this sub to hit well over 100db with just a handful of watts (maybe 10-20watts.) This means it hardly uses any electricity most of the time. At the full 400watts it is outputting 115-130db depending on room size. Some subs would require 2000watts for the same, that sorta requires a 20a outlet by itself(only for short bursts though)
When you place a sub in a small sealed box or a smaller box with passive radiators, there is a lot of internal resistance/pressure in the box. So you need a lot of power to get the sub moving, then because you need a lot of power you need to really make the sub beefy and when you do that you further reduce sensitivity as the moving parts weigh more. Ultimately you might need an insane amount of power purely due to that. Not because you have some super 2000watt sub, but because the system is designed so that is what is needed to get it to play loudly.
Then because the sub is moving so much (excursion) the box needs to be overbuilt to accommodate the high internal pressures.
Some subs that this Klipsch compares well with weigh double what this does. You will see stuff @ 120+lbs. Such a pain to move. This Klipsch is huge and heavy @75lbs but I can still move this one pretty well by myself (though watch your back as you move anything like this around)
Yep. I should have went ported. I have 2x sealed UM18's. In order to get high SPL at frequencies below 20hz, I run around 1300w RMS to each sub. It's an insane amount of power. BUT, due to the capacitors in the power amp, very little is actually used all the time at the wall unless you're running a sine wave lol. Um18's are on another level though, and just one would probably walk all over this Klipsch, even sealed .
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My two cents: Subs with integrated amps CAN be okay. But given the choice, I'd always opt for an outboard amp. Even a cheap Behringer class-d will cleanly drive just about anything out of its box. My last project was a "super x-max whatever whatever" driver from Parts Express and (aforementioned) amp, I paid Hexibass from youtube to design an enclosure for the driver/amp combo and my chosen F3 and it murdered the SVS SB13 Ultra that was in its place. If you've got the tools and the gumption to do something like that, I mean, it'll be YOURS
Problem is lack of passive subs for folks that don't want to DIY. I think SVS used to sell a passive sonotube sub back in the early days. Your best bet is to buy a used, known high performance sub with a dead amp at a discount and then bypass the dead amp with either a standalone amp or cheap replacement plate amp from partsexpress.
Sounds like my 4 Definitive Technology powered towers and 2 Definitive Technology subs. Will never buy their stuff again.
Sadly, seems like all brands that use plate amps have more than their fair share of early failures. They cheap out on components that cost mere pennies, but one of them fails and a $1000 device stops working.
I have 3 of these. They've all failed. Two purchased new both died within 9 months. Klipsch sent free replacement amps, but I just don't think it's worth the headache and uncertainty. The new RP line has already seen some good discounts and I'm sure we'll see more offers in the future.
How much is a replacement amp? I have one out of warranty that is starting to hum.
How much is a replacement amp? I have one out of warranty that is starting to hum.
About $275 last time I checked.
Email Klipsch directly with your serial number and see what they say. My third sub was used and out of warranty but they still sent a new amp for that one too. It's been a couple years though, so I'm not sure about their current policy.
How much is a replacement amp? I have one out of warranty that is starting to hum.
I've read where ppl have contacted klipsch and gotten it free or a discount out of warranty.
You can also find generic replacements at partexpress if they fit the cutout. Some ppl will use a thin piece of wood to adjust the cutout size if it's too big.
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Ahhh. Interesting. So how many hours of actual "powered on" time do you think your's had before they failed? Had to just be a handful of hours, yes? That's would be crazy. Thanks!
They were definitely getting put through their paces at times. I have two setups in the house though, so they get split time from me.
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I have 3 of these. They've all failed. Two purchased new both died within 9 months. Klipsch sent free replacement amps, but I just don't think it's worth the headache and uncertainty. The new RP line has already seen some good discounts and I'm sure we'll see more offers in the future.
This actually is much harder to do in a smaller cabinet which is why you often see 'passive radiators' vs ports. Passive radiators cost much more to manufacture vs ports and thus raise the retail price but do not offer a performance gain over a simple port, it is just difficult to fit a proper sized port with a low tuning frequency in a small box due to the length/size of the port tube.
So those subs with dual passive radiators on the side that make them look supercharged do not offer any performance gain over a sub in a larger box and low tuned ported design.
The large box and sensitive woofer and ported design all combine to allow this sub to hit well over 100db with just a handful of watts (maybe 10-20watts.) This means it hardly uses any electricity most of the time. At the full 400watts it is outputting 115-130db depending on room size. Some subs would require 2000watts for the same, that sorta requires a 20a outlet by itself(only for short bursts though)
When you place a sub in a small sealed box or a smaller box with passive radiators, there is a lot of internal resistance/pressure in the box. So you need a lot of power to get the sub moving, then because you need a lot of power you need to really make the sub beefy and when you do that you further reduce sensitivity as the moving parts weigh more. Ultimately you might need an insane amount of power purely due to that. Not because you have some super 2000watt sub, but because the system is designed so that is what is needed to get it to play loudly.
Then because the sub is moving so much (excursion) the box needs to be overbuilt to accommodate the high internal pressures.
Some subs that this Klipsch compares well with weigh double what this does. You will see stuff @ 120+lbs. Such a pain to move. This Klipsch is huge and heavy @75lbs but I can still move this one pretty well by myself (though watch your back as you move anything like this around)
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I have 3 of these. They've all failed. Two purchased new both died within 9 months. Klipsch sent free replacement amps, but I just don't think it's worth the headache and uncertainty. The new RP line has already seen some good discounts and I'm sure we'll see more offers in the future.
Email Klipsch directly with your serial number and see what they say. My third sub was used and out of warranty but they still sent a new amp for that one too. It's been a couple years though, so I'm not sure about their current policy.
You can also find generic replacements at partexpress if they fit the cutout. Some ppl will use a thin piece of wood to adjust the cutout size if it's too big.
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