These Rogue acoustics play way above their price point
ACOUSTIC GUITAR SETUP ADVICE
There is a lot of good info mixed with half-truth or zero-truth above. Here are some hints for making an acoustic guitar play better. Acoustics are harder to set up than electrics, so be warned.
Step 1: Check neck relief. If you just brought the guitar inside, wait a day for it to acclimate to your room temperature and humidity. Then tune the guitar up to the correct pitch. Push down the lowest string just above the 1st fret and just below the last fret. There should be a tiny gap between the string and the frets in the middle, the thickness of a business card or less. Then try it with the highest string. The gap should be the same. If it isn't, your guitar has a twisted neck and you should return it, because you'll never get it to play right.
If the gap is too high, you need to tighten the truss rod. If there is no gap, you need to loosen the truss rod. Only go 1/8 of a turn at a time when adjusting truss rods. No more! Check after each 1/8 turn. Once you get it about right, let the guitar sit overnight and check again.
The truss rod is an Allen key located inside the sound hole, at the end of the neck. If the guitar comes with an Allen key, that's what it's for.
Once you've done that, then you can move on to:
Step 2: Adjust action.
Likely the strings will be way off the fretboard when you get the truss rod right, so you need to lower the action. To do this, first figure out about how much lower you think you can get it. Then, you have to take off the strings (don't take them out of the bridge, just take them out of the tuners at the top) and remove the little white plastic bar that goes under them. Then you can either file down the bottom of the plastic piece, or file deeper grooves in the top. You should start by filing down the bottom, because you need really small files to do the grooves in the top. Remember, you'll need higher action on the bass strings than the treble strings, so you'll probably take more off the treble side than the bass side.
Put the piece back in and the strings back on, tune to pitch, and check the action. If it's still too high, take off a bit more. Don't take off too much, because then you most likely have to get a new piece and start over. (You can often fudge it with a little piece of paper or cardboard in the bottom, but the connection won't be as solid and the guitar might not sound as good.)
Step 3: Adjust the nut. You do that basically the same way you do the bridge, except it's easier because you don't have to take the strings all the way off. You can just tune them slack until you can slide the nut out. What you want is for the strings to be as close to the first fret as you can get them without buzzing on the first fret. Take material off the bottom of the nut, then slide it back in, tune the strings back up, and check. Again, if you go too far you'll have to start over with a new nut or wedge paper underneath, which isn't as solid.
If you're going to all this trouble, you should probably spend under $10 first, and buy a real bone bridge saddle and nut on ebay. They're much easier to file on than plastic, and then you have the original plastic ones as a backup. Measure yours with a millimeter ruler first to make sure you're buying the right size.
Happy picking!
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I bought the acoustic one years ago for $50 and it does sound very nice. The caveat is that string action is really high, meaning you need to press the strings really hard, especially for higher frets. Adjusting the rod helps a little but not much.
Not a beginner friendly guitar. But still very nice for how little it costs.
I bought the acoustic one years ago for $50 and it does sound very nice. The caveat is that string action is really high, meaning you need to press the strings really hard, especially for higher frets. Adjusting the rod helps a little but not much.
Not a beginner friendly guitar. But still very nice for how little it costs.
Most guitars need a setup after purchase. This even includes higher end guitars; Fender, Gibson, etc. They can adjust the nut and the saddle by filing them down. They can also level frets that are high. I would look on craigslist or google for luthier in you area. Probably around $100.
Most guitars need a setup after purchase. This even includes higher end guitars; Fender, Gibson, etc. They can adjust the nut and the saddle by filing them down. They can also level frets that are high. I would look on craigslist or google for luthier in you area. Probably around $100.
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12-30-2023 at 04:27 PM.
I don't own this, but it's a good idea to first, replace all the strings. Tune it, play for 30 minutes, and retune. If you want to get deeper into it, you can improve the sound of a cheap guitar by upgrading the nut. This will also give you the opportunity to sandpaper off a little of the underside, to lower the action. Look on youTube for how to do this. You can also get a fret rocker, and level the frets, this will help get rid of any fret buzz lowering the action might create. Again lots on youTube. This can make a huge difference to how enjoyable it is to play, without affecting the sound negatively, and maybe even improving it a little.
Be careful if considering lowering the saddle. I modified a Dremmel and routed a tiny amount off the saddle slot in the bridge to give better contact when the saddle was seated (advanced mod), which helped, but if you sand the base of the saddle itself too much, you'll reduce the down-force. As the sound is passed from the strings into the acoustic box of the guitar via the saddle, making the saddle lower can reduce the quality of the sound. They are cheap and replaceable though so it might be worth experimenting as it can make it easier to play too.
First, replace all the strings. Tune it, play for 30 minutes, retune. You can generally vastly improve the sound of a cheap guitar by upgrading the nut. This will also give you the opportunity to sand paper off a little of the underside, to lower the action. Look on youTube for how to do this. You can also get a fret rocker, and level the frets, this will help get rid of any fret buzz lowering the action might create. Again lots on youTube. This can make a huge difference to how enjoyable it is to play, without affecting the sound.
Be careful if considering lowering the saddle. I modified a Dremmel and routed a tiny amount off the saddle slot in the bridge to give better contact when the saddle was seated (advanced mod), which helped, but if you sand the base of the saddle itself you'll reduce the down-force. As the sound is passed from the strings into the acoustic box of the guitar via the saddle, making the saddle lower can reduce the quality of the sound. They are cheap and replaceable though so it might be worth experimenting as it can make it easier to play too.
Instead of sanding down the nut, just buy a bone bridge nut and saddle from Amazon for less than 15$, the bone will amplify the sound way better than the plastic ones that usually come on these guitars. And bone is way easier to sand than plastic
Instead of sanding down the nut, just buy a bone bridge nut and saddle from Amazon for less than 15$, the bone will amplify the sound way better than the plastic ones that usually come on these guitars. And bone is way easier to sand than plastic
Yep bone is a good choice for the upgrade, and sanding to lower the action will make it easier to play.
Have its earlier version I think it's ra-100d, and still enjoy playing it after all these years, even tuner plastic is starting aging and cracking off.
I don't own this, but it's a good idea to first, replace all the strings. Tune it, play for 30 minutes, and retune. If you want to get deeper into it, you can improve the sound of a cheap guitar by upgrading the nut. This will also give you the opportunity to sandpaper off a little of the underside, to lower the action. Look on youTube for how to do this. You can also get a fret rocker, and level the frets, this will help get rid of any fret buzz lowering the action might create. Again lots on youTube. This can make a huge difference to how enjoyable it is to play, without affecting the sound negatively, and maybe even improving it a little.
Be careful if considering lowering the saddle. I modified a Dremmel and routed a tiny amount off the saddle slot in the bridge to give better contact when the saddle was seated (advanced mod), which helped, but if you sand the base of the saddle itself too much, you'll reduce the down-force. As the sound is passed from the strings into the acoustic box of the guitar via the saddle, making the saddle lower can reduce the quality of the sound. They are cheap and replaceable though so it might be worth experimenting as it can make it easier to play too.
I don't know what any of these words mean, but it all sounds intriguing!
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There is a lot of good info mixed with half-truth or zero-truth above. Here are some hints for making an acoustic guitar play better. Acoustics are harder to set up than electrics, so be warned.
Step 1: Check neck relief. If you just brought the guitar inside, wait a day for it to acclimate to your room temperature and humidity. Then tune the guitar up to the correct pitch. Push down the lowest string just above the 1st fret and just below the last fret. There should be a tiny gap between the string and the frets in the middle, the thickness of a business card or less. Then try it with the highest string. The gap should be the same. If it isn't, your guitar has a twisted neck and you should return it, because you'll never get it to play right.
If the gap is too high, you need to tighten the truss rod. If there is no gap, you need to loosen the truss rod. Only go 1/8 of a turn at a time when adjusting truss rods. No more! Check after each 1/8 turn. Once you get it about right, let the guitar sit overnight and check again.
The truss rod is an Allen key located inside the sound hole, at the end of the neck. If the guitar comes with an Allen key, that's what it's for.
Once you've done that, then you can move on to:
Step 2: Adjust action.
Likely the strings will be way off the fretboard when you get the truss rod right, so you need to lower the action. To do this, first figure out about how much lower you think you can get it. Then, you have to take off the strings (don't take them out of the bridge, just take them out of the tuners at the top) and remove the little white plastic bar that goes under them. Then you can either file down the bottom of the plastic piece, or file deeper grooves in the top. You should start by filing down the bottom, because you need really small files to do the grooves in the top. Remember, you'll need higher action on the bass strings than the treble strings, so you'll probably take more off the treble side than the bass side.
Put the piece back in and the strings back on, tune to pitch, and check the action. If it's still too high, take off a bit more. Don't take off too much, because then you most likely have to get a new piece and start over. (You can often fudge it with a little piece of paper or cardboard in the bottom, but the connection won't be as solid and the guitar might not sound as good.)
Step 3: Adjust the nut. You do that basically the same way you do the bridge, except it's easier because you don't have to take the strings all the way off. You can just tune them slack until you can slide the nut out. What you want is for the strings to be as close to the first fret as you can get them without buzzing on the first fret. Take material off the bottom of the nut, then slide it back in, tune the strings back up, and check. Again, if you go too far you'll have to start over with a new nut or wedge paper underneath, which isn't as solid.
If you're going to all this trouble, you should probably spend under $10 first, and buy a real bone bridge saddle and nut on ebay. They're much easier to file on than plastic, and then you have the original plastic ones as a backup. Measure yours with a millimeter ruler first to make sure you're buying the right size.
Happy picking!
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank djfrank
Not a beginner friendly guitar. But still very nice for how little it costs.
Not a beginner friendly guitar. But still very nice for how little it costs.
Or a Guitar Center store
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank iClimb
Be careful if considering lowering the saddle. I modified a Dremmel and routed a tiny amount off the saddle slot in the bridge to give better contact when the saddle was seated (advanced mod), which helped, but if you sand the base of the saddle itself too much, you'll reduce the down-force. As the sound is passed from the strings into the acoustic box of the guitar via the saddle, making the saddle lower can reduce the quality of the sound. They are cheap and replaceable though so it might be worth experimenting as it can make it easier to play too.
Be careful if considering lowering the saddle. I modified a Dremmel and routed a tiny amount off the saddle slot in the bridge to give better contact when the saddle was seated (advanced mod), which helped, but if you sand the base of the saddle itself you'll reduce the down-force. As the sound is passed from the strings into the acoustic box of the guitar via the saddle, making the saddle lower can reduce the quality of the sound. They are cheap and replaceable though so it might be worth experimenting as it can make it easier to play too.
Instead of sanding down the nut, just buy a bone bridge nut and saddle from Amazon for less than 15$, the bone will amplify the sound way better than the plastic ones that usually come on these guitars. And bone is way easier to sand than plastic
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A great starter guitar. No frills, quality at least double what you're paying, if not triple.
If you have a guitar playing friend, spend $7 on new strings and have them show you how to set it up correctly.
A great starter guitar. No frills, quality at least double what you're paying, if not triple.
If you have a guitar playing friend, spend $7 on new strings and have them show you how to set it up correctly.
Would you recommend the RA-090 or the RA-110D for a beginner? I'm struggling to choose between these two! Thanks so much
Be careful if considering lowering the saddle. I modified a Dremmel and routed a tiny amount off the saddle slot in the bridge to give better contact when the saddle was seated (advanced mod), which helped, but if you sand the base of the saddle itself too much, you'll reduce the down-force. As the sound is passed from the strings into the acoustic box of the guitar via the saddle, making the saddle lower can reduce the quality of the sound. They are cheap and replaceable though so it might be worth experimenting as it can make it easier to play too.