| Product Description: | About Definitive Technology Demand D17
Save $1,998.00 in Instant Savings plus $1,548.00 in "Accessory Savings" when you buy this Definitive Technology Demand D17. This Value Bundle comes with a Definitive Technology Demand D17 Left, Definitive Technology Demand D17 Right, Definitive Technology Descend Subwoofer and a Definitive Technology Dymension DM10 and Shipping is free!
D17 Tower Speaker - Towering Audiophile Performance
D17 loudspeakers are the discerning listener's choice for smooth high-frequency reproduction, thundering lows, and three-dimensional imaging that fills your space with beautiful sound.
• Breathtaking Musicality: High Performance with a Powerful Presence and Full Frequency Response
• Smooth, Visceral Bass: Two Carbon Fiber Woofers, Two 10" Passive Radiators and a BDSS Midrange Woofer
• Precision Imaging: Laterally Offset Tweeters with 20/20 Wave Alignment Creates a Precise Soundstage
Flagship Performance
Breathtaking Musicality
D17 tower speakers are meticulously engineered with a laterally offset 1" annealed aluminum dome tweeter, a 6.5" BDSS midrange woofer, and dual 6.5" carbon fiber bass woofers complemented by dual 10" side-firing passive radiators for a full-range, breathtakingly musical sonic performance.
Proprietary Drivers for clean, detailed, balanced audio
Definitive Technology designed the drivers in the Demand Series to deliver a perfectly balanced, precise, musical sound.
Tweeters - Clear, Precise Highs
The D17 couples a laterally offset 1" Aluminum Dome Tweeter with our 20/20 Wave Alignment Lens. We offset the tweeters by 5 Degree , minimizing wave cancellations off the front baffle to deliver a more precise center stereo image and ensure clear, exacting high-frequency performance and detailed soundstage.
Midrange - Superior Midrange Detail
The D17's 6.5" patented Balanced Double Surround System (BDSS) mid/bass driver provides greater excursion and output for superior midrange detail and punchier bass compared with other drivers of similar size.
Woofers - Deeper, Cleaner Bass
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62 Comments
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What type of system are you after?
What features do you need/want?
Are you getting this all at once?
While I'm happy to listen to the opinions of reviewers that only "listen", the human brain is as tricky as it is complicated. Its "perceptions" can't be trusted 100%. Too much built in preference and bias.
What the better ones do that separates them(ie Audyssey XT32,Dirac Live), you can manipulate the results.
Learning how to do that properly greatly affects your final results imo.
They are comparable to each other.
With XT32 you have to get the $20 Editor App for crucial benefits.
With Dirac Live it does not include their sub/bass integration RC.
The least expensive way to get Dirac right now is the Pioneer LX305 on sale for $530.
With XT32 you can buy a prior model and just add editor app to that.
Imo the quality of your speakers makes the biggest impact on sound quality, investing in those 1st is the best practice.
5.1 doesn't need/use object based processing so you can buy a slightly older receiver to use while building your system.
Hope that helps good luck.
Check the internal binding post wire connections first. The crossover is mounted to the bottom of the speaker and you'll need to remove one of the passive radiators to inspect it....
1 - Remove the speaker binding post plate (2.5mm hex screws) to check the internal connections on the binding posts.
2 - Remove the radiator trim ring ( it's held on by magnets).
3 - Remove the passive radiator (2.5mm hex screws).
4 - Use a flashlight to inspect the crossover board components.
The large inductor is located at the end of the crossover board and should be glued and zip tied tight to the circuit board.
Check the internal binding post wire connections first. The crossover is mounted to the bottom of the speaker and you'll need to remove one of the passive radiators to inspect it....
1 - Remove the speaker binding post plate (2.5mm hex screws) to check the internal connections on the binding posts.
2 - Remove the radiator trim ring ( it's held on by magnets).
3 - Remove the passive radiator (2.5mm hex screws).
4 - Use a flashlight to inspect the crossover board components.
The large inductor is located at the end of the crossover board and should be glued and zip tied tight to the circuit board.
Wonder if the extra woofers would do well in a car as a mini subwoofer or something, can't find the T/S parameters anywhere but might be fun to play around with as the drivers look high quality.
Wonder if the extra woofers would do well in a car as a mini subwoofer or something, can't find the T/S parameters anywhere but might be fun to play around with as the drivers look high quality.
Maybe you can reverse engineer an enclosure for the woofers based on the enclosure volume and crossover specs of the speaker they came out of. If you're into diy I think Parts Express sells speaker driver testers.
If you're looking for a compact car subwoofer with excellent sound quality, the Sundown shallow mount 8" sub (I forget the model#) is a killer little sub that only needs around a 0.6 cubic feet sealed enclosure or a 1.0 -1.5 ported enclosure. A ported enclosure will give it more output if you have the room for a larger enclosure. I think they're around $150. I have one in my truck in a 0.6 sealed enclosure and it kicks for an 8".
Edit: I found the model#, it's a Sundown SD-3. It comes with either dual 4 ohm or 2 ohm voice coils. $150 at Amazon now.
Maybe you can reverse engineer an enclosure for the woofers based on the enclosure volume and crossover specs of the speaker they came out of. If you're into diy I think Parts Express sells speaker driver testers.
If you're looking for a compact car subwoofer with excellent sound quality, the Sundown shallow mount 8" sub (I forget the model#) is a killer little sub that only needs around a 0.6 cubic feet sealed enclosure or a 1.0 -1.5 ported enclosure. A ported enclosure will give it more output if you have the room for a larger enclosure. I think they're around $150. I have one in my truck in a 0.6 sealed enclosure and it kicks for an 8".
Edit: I found the model#, it's a Sundown SD-3. It comes with either dual 4 ohm or 2 ohm voice coils. $150 at Amazon now.
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Are there any trustworthy reviews on the d17s? The only thing I've heard is they take more power to push
Quick test hooked up the D17s to my Denon X6700H and they absolutely rock! Definitely glad to have picked up this deal.
Quick test hooked up the D17s to my Denon X6700H and they absolutely rock! Definitely glad to have picked up this deal.
I drove my D15s with a separate amp rated 300watts@8ohms, 600+ damping factor and was impressed at the quality and quantity of bass coming out of a small, slim speaker with only 5" woofers. They sounded noticeable better than bi-amped with a Denon X7200wa rated at around 140-150watts@8ohms.
Some general amplifier info/tips for everyone:
An amp's wattage rating isn't the only spec to look at and isn't the most important in some cases. Look for an amp with a damping factor of 500 or more which is generally found in more powerful amps rated around 200watts@8ohms or more. Another amp spec that you want to look for is it's current output which is needed to drive low impedance speakers. An amp that is 2ohm stable will have a high enough current output for most speakers.
I haven't seen an AVR whose internal amps have a damping factor high enough for floorstanding speakers with multiple woofers.
A high damping factor gives the amp the ability to better control the speaker drivers and is needed for speakers with large and/or multiple woofers which most floorstanding speakers have.
Controlling the drivers means the amp is able to start and stop the driver cone quicker resulting in cleaner, tighter, more detailed bass.
My recommendation is to drive your front L/R speakers with a separate amp. This will take a significant load off of the AVR's internal amps and also free up more power for the surround speakers. A quality pro amp is the best "bang for your buck" or "watts per dollar" and most are 2ohm stable.
IMO, A good quality separate amp is a smart investment. It will more than pay for itself and save you $ in the long run....
1 - It will last you many years and be able to properly drive almost any speakers you get in the future.
2 - You'll be able to evaluate speakers accurately because they are being properly driven. You're less likely to keep chasing for better sounding speakers because most speakers sound kind of "bad" if not properly driven.
3 - Whatever speakers you have are gonna sound their best because they are being properly driven.
4 - Underdriving speakers (amp clipping/dirty power) is a surefire way to destroy a speaker.
4 - Any AVR you buy in the future having enough power isn't an issue and you can get one with just the features you need. You won't have to unnecessarily spend more $ for one with higher wattage output and that higher output still won't be able to properly drive most floorstanders.
Do some research so you spend your $ wisely...Take what I say with a grain of salt as you should with anything you see on the internet. On SD you need to take anything someone says with a pound of salt, too many trolls.
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This kind of negates DefTech's claim that the aluminum strengthens the front baffle. A flexible adhesive adhesive won't really strengthen it, they would need to permanently epoxy the aluminum to the front mdf baffle to reinforce it and make it stronger. When I build speakers I permanently glue two pieces of 3/4" mdf together to create a true 1.5" thick front baffle.
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