Introducing the Hyper 29-inch Unisex E-Ride Electric Mountain Bike in Matte Grey. This bike is designed to conquer any challenge especially steep hills. With its powerful motor and efficient design climbing becomes a thrilling experience. The bike features a 36-volt lithium-ion battery providing a range of 20 miles per charge. It only takes 4 hours to fully charge ensuring you spend more time riding and less time waiting. The 29-inch wheels offer excellent traction and stability making it easier to navigate rough terrain. What sets this electric mountain bike apart is its Mid-Drive motor. It provides higher torque output allowing you to conquer steep hills for longer periods. The responsive pedal assist system gives you that extra boost when needed. With a lightweight and well-balanced center of gravity you ll have full control and can easily maneuver through any obstacles.
Product SKU:
377127878
UPC:
690995980793
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Model: Hyper E-Ride Electric Bike, 29inch Wheels, Men’s MID DRIVE MTB Dual-Suspension, 36 Volt, 20+ Mile Range, Matte Grey
Deal HistoryÂ
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
Let me touch on why this is not as good as a high quality e-mtb, not matter what you upgrade.
1) The pivots in the frame are small, AND they use cheap bushings. Bushings are actually good if done right (Ibis uses bushings in some of their suspension pivots), but owners of this bike report they wear out fast, and they are not lubricated.
2) The bike has pretty long chainstays. This means the bike will be more difficulty to turn around tight corners.
3) The frame only offers like 80mm of rear travel. Don't bother thinking you can just swap in a longer shock to get more travel, it doesn't work that way. Most good e-mtbs offer 140-170mm of rear travel. That's a huge difference.
4) The swingarm of this frame looks a bit anemic and weak. Look at the thickness of the tubing and all the welds near the dropouts. I've seen at least one person have the swingarm break in half at the chainstay.
5) The bike does not appear to be waterproofed well. Just look at the lack of grommet at the hole in the downtube above the motor. I don't think Hyper claims this bike is waterproof either.
6) The frame is not set up to run a dropper seatpost. Not a huge deal, because their are way around this, but it's something that should have been addressed when this bike was designed.
Things you kind of need to upgrade if you wish to use it a fair amount offroad:
1) Drivetrain upgrade. The cheap rear derailleur will cause a terrible amount of chain slap and will likely cause the chain to be thrown off. The freewheel has a pretty narrow range of gearing, and combined with the large chainring in the front, will result in difficulty climbing steep hills. Grip shifters kind of suck offroad, especially the cheap ones.
2) Rear wheel upgrade. First, the stock wheel is a huge weak point, as I've seen several reports of axles breaking and the freewheel breaking. Second, because it uses a freewheel, upgrading the drivetrain is very limited. A wheel with a freehub (vs freewheel) really opens the options up for great wide-range cassettes. Third, bolt-on axles suck, and a rear wheel with a quick-release is a huge convenience.
3) Brake upgrade. At the minimum, you probably want to swap out the brake pads for something with better bite, but honestly, hydraulic brakes (even the cheaper ones) are a huge upgrade, especially on a bike that weighs more than 50 pounds.
4) Fork upgrade. The stock fork would be fine for very occasional offroad use for a light weight rider, but serious riding will greatly benefit from a fork with an air spring (to adjust fork preload for rider weight), better damping, and thicker stanchions (less flex and deflection). Even a cheap $150-200 "take-off" fork would be a huge improvement.
5) Taller riders are probably going to need to swap out the bars with something with more rise, as the stack height of this bike is very low.
6) Dropper seatpost. Not a necessity, but it's nice to have. You don't really appreciate a dropper until you have used one. You can go externally routed and run the cable housing up the top tube and secure it with zipties and electrical tape, or use a dropper with the lever integrated into the post under the saddle, so no remote is needed. I'm not a fan of drilling holes in frames.
I got this bike on sale last year for $1298.00 and am very happy with it. $699.00 is a steal.
I've ridden and raced gas-powered bikes in the woods for over 40 years.And I rode all over Moab on MTB before there ever was suspension. I'm not on Team Red Bull but I can get through the woods pretty well, even at 57 yrs. old.
This motor is great and helps me up to the cell tower here (800' vert. climb) and I ride back down a nasty singletrack that is loaded with granite rocks. It's been handling it fine. Even better after I upgraded the fork. With the motor I can do multiple laps. With my analog bike I never felt like doing more than one. This motor is plenty strong and I don't think you'll find any stronger ones on other eMTBs. (look at the Newton Metres of torque, not the wattage)
The Vinka motor is very well sealed and is rated for non-pressurized water spray. The connections are no more vulnerable than any other e-bike. I have ridden through crank-deep creeks with no issues.
It's not going to compete with the specs. of a $3k bike but if you're ok with that you won't regret buying this bike. I'm tempted to grab another at this price for spares and/or a buddy bike for guests.
Hyper support has been great. Emails replied to within hours, in normal English, and knowledgeable folks on the phone. They usually have batteries in stock. Some other parts are also in stock. If not, they come on the slow boat but are very reasonably priced.
Check out Vegas Hyper Adventures on Youtube. He has a fleet of these bikes for his guided tours and does some good reviews. He bought his bikes just like us so he's not biased in his reviews.
If you have a lot more $ to spend then this is the next-level deal I would look at:
No, not full suspension. There's nothing else even close to this bike at that price. There are lots of options that are way worse. Keep in mind, it's VERY difficult to even find a decent non-motorized bike with full suspension for $1000. As critical as I may seem about this bike, I actually recommended it to a friend who was looking for something for his wife to use very occasionally offroad, and mostly on road and paved/gravel trails, because the Vinka motor system in this Hyper looks pretty good. He bought my BH E-motion Rebel Lynx (uses the Yamaha PW motor system) several years ago and loves it. I have a Haibike full suspension that uses the Yamaha PW-X system, which has also been a great bike. They are a huge step up in quality compared to this Hyper, especially in the frame design.
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I did the 3 yr. but, in hindsight, the 4 yr. looks like a better deal.
FWIW, I've heard that Hyper has been very good about their own warranty. I haven't needed anything. I read one guy that had a faulty sensor in his motor (from day 1). Hyper sent him the parts and says they will pay for his local bike shop to install it.
I don't know how the Allstate claims work if we need them. I hope to not find out.
I guess all the parts warranties (other than the frame) are what their manufacturer offers. But it seems that Hyper has been taking care of that for it's customers if needed.
Last edited by BrianRange March 5, 2024 at 02:32 PM.
Very slow bike and it's been the same price now for several months.
It's not a hub-drive e-moped. It's not designed to be "fast". Learn yourself up on mid-drive motors before you post such things and make yourself look silly again.
Last edited by BrianRange March 5, 2024 at 04:00 PM.
Very tempting, I already have a commuter and a drop bar road eBike but nothing for rough trails. But if I get this, I'd probably put in at least a couple hundred in accessories and upgrades.
Very tempting, I already have a commuter and a drop bar road eBike but nothing for rough trails. But if I get this, I'd probably put in at least a couple hundred in accessories and upgrades.
After deciding that this bike was worth upgrading I put about $500 into mine.
Better tires are pretty much mandatory for the woods. And then pedals with grip pegs. The originals are fine until they get muddy and you're pounding downhill through rocks.
Then I upgraded the front suspension. I can charge much harder through the rocks now.
Those alone make the nasty stuff very doable. For about $350.
This winter I replaced the rear shock and changed the grip shifter to a trigger shifter. Another $150. I haven't tried those out yet. It will be a while before the snow is gone and the trails dry out and I can ride again.
I don't mean to suggest that this bike needs upgrades. Other than the tires, this bike is very capable for casual MTBing in stock form. I like to tinker and push myself and my equipment harder than either probably should be pushed.
Last edited by BrianRange March 5, 2024 at 05:31 PM.
After deciding that this bike was worth upgrading I put about $500 into mine.
Better tires are pretty much mandatory for the woods. And then pedals with grip pegs. The originals are fine until they get muddy and you're pounding downhill through rocks.
Then I upgraded the front suspension. I can charge much harder through the rocks now.
Those alone make the nasty stuff very doable. For about $350.
This winter I replaced the rear shock and changed the grip shifter to a trigger shifter. Another $150. I haven't tried those out yet. It will be a while before the snow is gone and the trails dry out and I can ride again.
I don't mean to suggest that this bike needs upgrades. Other than the tires, this bike is very capable for casual MTBing in stock form. I like to tinker and push myself and my equipment harder than either probably should be pushed.
You are providing good information and there are people that appreciate that. Thank you. If I hadn't seen the bike sell for under $450 in the Canadian market I'd probably pick one up at this price to upgrade and play around with. I haven't ridden a mid-drive e-bike and am interested. For the time being this seems to be the best bang for the buck but I am going to hold out.
If you haven't done the brakes yet; a set of mt200s can be had for under $40 and will make a pretty big difference in modulation and outright stopping power. A dropper post should be something to consider as well.
You are providing good information and there are people that appreciate that. Thank you. If I hadn't seen the bike sell for under $450 in the Canadian market I'd probably pick one up at this price to upgrade and play around with. I haven't ridden a mid-drive e-bike and am interested. For the time being this seems to be the best bang for the buck but I am going to hold out.
If you haven't done the brakes yet; a set of mt200s can be had for under $40 and will make a pretty big difference in modulation and outright stopping power. A dropper post should be something to consider as well.
Good info. Thank you.
I have fantastic brakes and clutch on my gasser race bike that I only ever need one finger on the levers to use. Even to do stoppies. I know what good brakes feel like.
The stock brakes on this cheap eMTB are just fine. I can do a stoppie with them no problem.And I haven't even put better brake pads in the calipers yet. Could I spend some more money and make them better? Sure, but not needed.
I would like a remote dropper seat post but I'm not willing to spend $150 for it. When I get to the top of the mountain I lower my seat manually and then charge the downhill. I haven't been passed yet, nor have I held up any riders coming from behind.
Folks, this is a $700-$1400 entry-level eMTB with a mid-drive motor and a 10.5ah battery.
There is nothing at this price that even comes close in bang-for-the-buck. It's a SlickDeal.
If it fits into your world you will be so happy that you found it here.
It's never going to compare to a $3k-$13k eMTB no matter how much you "upgrade" it. It was never intended to do that.
It will get you into the woods (or just roads) and put a big smile on your face. If you decide that you need more bike, or you just have some extra cash, then there are many other incredible e-bikes out there.
I'm going to continue to ride the wheels off my Hyper bike and enjoy the heck out of my $1,800 investment. You can do the same for a lot less $ at the current price.
Have fun, and stay well.
Last edited by BrianRange March 5, 2024 at 09:21 PM.
If you don't mind the aggressive riding position you can certainly ride this on the road. And you are correct about the mid drive. (It's a Vinka E20 if you want to research that).
Mid drives are superior for help climbing hills. Just be aware that you still have to provide some pedal input and be in the correct gear (if the gear is hard for you to pedal then it's also hard for the motor). There is no throttle action like a moped. And it's best to keep the pedals turning at a good (60+) cadence for motor longevity (and cooling?).
The assist stops helping at 20mph. If your area doesn't require that restriction you can bump the limit up to 28mph in the settings.Check your local laws.
You'd probably want to get smoother/skinnier tires. You could change the handlebars and/or stem if you want a more upright riding position.You will probably have a tough time finding any type of luggage racks for a full-suspension MTB.
I hope some of this helps.
Also, look up Louis Oyster in this thread to see the changes he made for commuter riding. https://www.facebook.com/groups/hypermiddrive/
The commuter version (step through, hard tail, thinner tires) of this bike just dropped to 700 at Walmart.
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The commuter version (step through, hard tail, thinner tires) of this bike just dropped to 700 at Walmart.
thanks. While the commuter model is more suited for my use case, i am just so used to riding 29er mtb on road, i find the upright position less powerful.
Last edited by deshwasi March 5, 2024 at 10:38 PM.
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1) The pivots in the frame are small, AND they use cheap bushings. Bushings are actually good if done right (Ibis uses bushings in some of their suspension pivots), but owners of this bike report they wear out fast, and they are not lubricated.
2) The bike has pretty long chainstays. This means the bike will be more difficulty to turn around tight corners.
3) The frame only offers like 80mm of rear travel. Don't bother thinking you can just swap in a longer shock to get more travel, it doesn't work that way. Most good e-mtbs offer 140-170mm of rear travel. That's a huge difference.
4) The swingarm of this frame looks a bit anemic and weak. Look at the thickness of the tubing and all the welds near the dropouts. I've seen at least one person have the swingarm break in half at the chainstay.
5) The bike does not appear to be waterproofed well. Just look at the lack of grommet at the hole in the downtube above the motor. I don't think Hyper claims this bike is waterproof either.
6) The frame is not set up to run a dropper seatpost. Not a huge deal, because their are way around this, but it's something that should have been addressed when this bike was designed.
Things you kind of need to upgrade if you wish to use it a fair amount offroad:
1) Drivetrain upgrade. The cheap rear derailleur will cause a terrible amount of chain slap and will likely cause the chain to be thrown off. The freewheel has a pretty narrow range of gearing, and combined with the large chainring in the front, will result in difficulty climbing steep hills. Grip shifters kind of suck offroad, especially the cheap ones.
2) Rear wheel upgrade. First, the stock wheel is a huge weak point, as I've seen several reports of axles breaking and the freewheel breaking. Second, because it uses a freewheel, upgrading the drivetrain is very limited. A wheel with a freehub (vs freewheel) really opens the options up for great wide-range cassettes. Third, bolt-on axles suck, and a rear wheel with a quick-release is a huge convenience.
3) Brake upgrade. At the minimum, you probably want to swap out the brake pads for something with better bite, but honestly, hydraulic brakes (even the cheaper ones) are a huge upgrade, especially on a bike that weighs more than 50 pounds.
4) Fork upgrade. The stock fork would be fine for very occasional offroad use for a light weight rider, but serious riding will greatly benefit from a fork with an air spring (to adjust fork preload for rider weight), better damping, and thicker stanchions (less flex and deflection). Even a cheap $150-200 "take-off" fork would be a huge improvement.
5) Taller riders are probably going to need to swap out the bars with something with more rise, as the stack height of this bike is very low.
6) Dropper seatpost. Not a necessity, but it's nice to have. You don't really appreciate a dropper until you have used one. You can go externally routed and run the cable housing up the top tube and secure it with zipties and electrical tape, or use a dropper with the lever integrated into the post under the saddle, so no remote is needed. I'm not a fan of drilling holes in frames.
I've ridden and raced gas-powered bikes in the woods for over 40 years.And I rode all over Moab on MTB before there ever was suspension. I'm not on Team Red Bull but I can get through the woods pretty well, even at 57 yrs. old.
This motor is great and helps me up to the cell tower here (800' vert. climb) and I ride back down a nasty singletrack that is loaded with granite rocks. It's been handling it fine. Even better after I upgraded the fork. With the motor I can do multiple laps. With my analog bike I never felt like doing more than one. This motor is plenty strong and I don't think you'll find any stronger ones on other eMTBs. (look at the Newton Metres of torque, not the wattage)
The Vinka motor is very well sealed and is rated for non-pressurized water spray. The connections are no more vulnerable than any other e-bike. I have ridden through crank-deep creeks with no issues.
It's not going to compete with the specs. of a $3k bike but if you're ok with that you won't regret buying this bike. I'm tempted to grab another at this price for spares and/or a buddy bike for guests.
Hyper support has been great. Emails replied to within hours, in normal English, and knowledgeable folks on the phone. They usually have batteries in stock. Some other parts are also in stock. If not, they come on the slow boat but are very reasonably priced.
Check out Vegas Hyper Adventures on Youtube. He has a fleet of these bikes for his guided tours and does some good reviews. He bought his bikes just like us so he's not biased in his reviews.
If you have a lot more $ to spend then this is the next-level deal I would look at:
https://slickdeals.net/f/17330331-bulls-ebike-copperhead-evo-am-1-750-bosch-cx-2999?src=catego
171 Comments
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FWIW, I've heard that Hyper has been very good about their own warranty. I haven't needed anything. I read one guy that had a faulty sensor in his motor (from day 1). Hyper sent him the parts and says they will pay for his local bike shop to install it.
I don't know how the Allstate claims work if we need them. I hope to not find out.
Vinka drive system details here: https://www.vinka.jp/faq/main/
I guess all the parts warranties (other than the frame) are what their manufacturer offers. But it seems that Hyper has been taking care of that for it's customers if needed.
This 57 yr. old on his "kid's bike" could probably beat you and your bike in the mountain woods.Bring it.
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Better tires are pretty much mandatory for the woods. And then pedals with grip pegs. The originals are fine until they get muddy and you're pounding downhill through rocks.
Then I upgraded the front suspension. I can charge much harder through the rocks now.
Those alone make the nasty stuff very doable. For about $350.
This winter I replaced the rear shock and changed the grip shifter to a trigger shifter. Another $150. I haven't tried those out yet. It will be a while before the snow is gone and the trails dry out and I can ride again.
I don't mean to suggest that this bike needs upgrades. Other than the tires, this bike is very capable for casual MTBing in stock form. I like to tinker and push myself and my equipment harder than either probably should be pushed.
Better tires are pretty much mandatory for the woods. And then pedals with grip pegs. The originals are fine until they get muddy and you're pounding downhill through rocks.
Then I upgraded the front suspension. I can charge much harder through the rocks now.
Those alone make the nasty stuff very doable. For about $350.
This winter I replaced the rear shock and changed the grip shifter to a trigger shifter. Another $150. I haven't tried those out yet. It will be a while before the snow is gone and the trails dry out and I can ride again.
I don't mean to suggest that this bike needs upgrades. Other than the tires, this bike is very capable for casual MTBing in stock form. I like to tinker and push myself and my equipment harder than either probably should be pushed.
If you haven't done the brakes yet; a set of mt200s can be had for under $40 and will make a pretty big difference in modulation and outright stopping power. A dropper post should be something to consider as well.
If you haven't done the brakes yet; a set of mt200s can be had for under $40 and will make a pretty big difference in modulation and outright stopping power. A dropper post should be something to consider as well.
I have fantastic brakes and clutch on my gasser race bike that I only ever need one finger on the levers to use. Even to do stoppies. I know what good brakes feel like.
The stock brakes on this cheap eMTB are just fine. I can do a stoppie with them no problem.And I haven't even put better brake pads in the calipers yet. Could I spend some more money and make them better? Sure, but not needed.
I would like a remote dropper seat post but I'm not willing to spend $150 for it. When I get to the top of the mountain I lower my seat manually and then charge the downhill. I haven't been passed yet, nor have I held up any riders coming from behind.
Folks, this is a $700-$1400 entry-level eMTB with a mid-drive motor and a 10.5ah battery.
There is nothing at this price that even comes close in bang-for-the-buck. It's a SlickDeal.
If it fits into your world you will be so happy that you found it here.
It's never going to compare to a $3k-$13k eMTB no matter how much you "upgrade" it. It was never intended to do that.
It will get you into the woods (or just roads) and put a big smile on your face. If you decide that you need more bike, or you just have some extra cash, then there are many other incredible e-bikes out there.
I'm going to continue to ride the wheels off my Hyper bike and enjoy the heck out of my $1,800 investment. You can do the same for a lot less $ at the current price.
Have fun, and stay well.
Mid drives are superior for help climbing hills. Just be aware that you still have to provide some pedal input and be in the correct gear (if the gear is hard for you to pedal then it's also hard for the motor). There is no throttle action like a moped. And it's best to keep the pedals turning at a good (60+) cadence for motor longevity (and cooling?).
The assist stops helping at 20mph. If your area doesn't require that restriction you can bump the limit up to 28mph in the settings.Check your local laws.
You'd probably want to get smoother/skinnier tires. You could change the handlebars and/or stem if you want a more upright riding position.You will probably have a tough time finding any type of luggage racks for a full-suspension MTB.
I hope some of this helps.
Also, look up Louis Oyster in this thread to see the changes he made for commuter riding.
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