Introducing the Hyper 29-inch Unisex E-Ride Electric Mountain Bike in Matte Grey. This bike is designed to conquer any challenge especially steep hills. With its powerful motor and efficient design climbing becomes a thrilling experience. The bike features a 36-volt lithium-ion battery providing a range of 20 miles per charge. It only takes 4 hours to fully charge ensuring you spend more time riding and less time waiting. The 29-inch wheels offer excellent traction and stability making it easier to navigate rough terrain. What sets this electric mountain bike apart is its Mid-Drive motor. It provides higher torque output allowing you to conquer steep hills for longer periods. The responsive pedal assist system gives you that extra boost when needed. With a lightweight and well-balanced center of gravity you ll have full control and can easily maneuver through any obstacles.
Product SKU:
377127878
UPC:
690995980793
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Model: Hyper E-Ride Electric Bike, 29inch Wheels, Men’s MID DRIVE MTB Dual-Suspension, 36 Volt, 20+ Mile Range, Matte Grey
Deal HistoryÂ
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
Let me touch on why this is not as good as a high quality e-mtb, not matter what you upgrade.
1) The pivots in the frame are small, AND they use cheap bushings. Bushings are actually good if done right (Ibis uses bushings in some of their suspension pivots), but owners of this bike report they wear out fast, and they are not lubricated.
2) The bike has pretty long chainstays. This means the bike will be more difficulty to turn around tight corners.
3) The frame only offers like 80mm of rear travel. Don't bother thinking you can just swap in a longer shock to get more travel, it doesn't work that way. Most good e-mtbs offer 140-170mm of rear travel. That's a huge difference.
4) The swingarm of this frame looks a bit anemic and weak. Look at the thickness of the tubing and all the welds near the dropouts. I've seen at least one person have the swingarm break in half at the chainstay.
5) The bike does not appear to be waterproofed well. Just look at the lack of grommet at the hole in the downtube above the motor. I don't think Hyper claims this bike is waterproof either.
6) The frame is not set up to run a dropper seatpost. Not a huge deal, because their are way around this, but it's something that should have been addressed when this bike was designed.
Things you kind of need to upgrade if you wish to use it a fair amount offroad:
1) Drivetrain upgrade. The cheap rear derailleur will cause a terrible amount of chain slap and will likely cause the chain to be thrown off. The freewheel has a pretty narrow range of gearing, and combined with the large chainring in the front, will result in difficulty climbing steep hills. Grip shifters kind of suck offroad, especially the cheap ones.
2) Rear wheel upgrade. First, the stock wheel is a huge weak point, as I've seen several reports of axles breaking and the freewheel breaking. Second, because it uses a freewheel, upgrading the drivetrain is very limited. A wheel with a freehub (vs freewheel) really opens the options up for great wide-range cassettes. Third, bolt-on axles suck, and a rear wheel with a quick-release is a huge convenience.
3) Brake upgrade. At the minimum, you probably want to swap out the brake pads for something with better bite, but honestly, hydraulic brakes (even the cheaper ones) are a huge upgrade, especially on a bike that weighs more than 50 pounds.
4) Fork upgrade. The stock fork would be fine for very occasional offroad use for a light weight rider, but serious riding will greatly benefit from a fork with an air spring (to adjust fork preload for rider weight), better damping, and thicker stanchions (less flex and deflection). Even a cheap $150-200 "take-off" fork would be a huge improvement.
5) Taller riders are probably going to need to swap out the bars with something with more rise, as the stack height of this bike is very low.
6) Dropper seatpost. Not a necessity, but it's nice to have. You don't really appreciate a dropper until you have used one. You can go externally routed and run the cable housing up the top tube and secure it with zipties and electrical tape, or use a dropper with the lever integrated into the post under the saddle, so no remote is needed. I'm not a fan of drilling holes in frames.
I got this bike on sale last year for $1298.00 and am very happy with it. $699.00 is a steal.
I've ridden and raced gas-powered bikes in the woods for over 40 years.And I rode all over Moab on MTB before there ever was suspension. I'm not on Team Red Bull but I can get through the woods pretty well, even at 57 yrs. old.
This motor is great and helps me up to the cell tower here (800' vert. climb) and I ride back down a nasty singletrack that is loaded with granite rocks. It's been handling it fine. Even better after I upgraded the fork. With the motor I can do multiple laps. With my analog bike I never felt like doing more than one. This motor is plenty strong and I don't think you'll find any stronger ones on other eMTBs. (look at the Newton Metres of torque, not the wattage)
The Vinka motor is very well sealed and is rated for non-pressurized water spray. The connections are no more vulnerable than any other e-bike. I have ridden through crank-deep creeks with no issues.
It's not going to compete with the specs. of a $3k bike but if you're ok with that you won't regret buying this bike. I'm tempted to grab another at this price for spares and/or a buddy bike for guests.
Hyper support has been great. Emails replied to within hours, in normal English, and knowledgeable folks on the phone. They usually have batteries in stock. Some other parts are also in stock. If not, they come on the slow boat but are very reasonably priced.
Check out Vegas Hyper Adventures on Youtube. He has a fleet of these bikes for his guided tours and does some good reviews. He bought his bikes just like us so he's not biased in his reviews.
If you have a lot more $ to spend then this is the next-level deal I would look at:
No, not full suspension. There's nothing else even close to this bike at that price. There are lots of options that are way worse. Keep in mind, it's VERY difficult to even find a decent non-motorized bike with full suspension for $1000. As critical as I may seem about this bike, I actually recommended it to a friend who was looking for something for his wife to use very occasionally offroad, and mostly on road and paved/gravel trails, because the Vinka motor system in this Hyper looks pretty good. He bought my BH E-motion Rebel Lynx (uses the Yamaha PW motor system) several years ago and loves it. I have a Haibike full suspension that uses the Yamaha PW-X system, which has also been a great bike. They are a huge step up in quality compared to this Hyper, especially in the frame design.
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In all honesty a mid drive powered hard tail would make a lot more sense for Hyper to produce. The rear suspension on this is highly suspect (no frame pivot bearings, 80mm max travel, cheap air shock,etc). Many people think they need a full squish when they actually don't. I love my hardtails.
I get the feeling it was cheaper for them to make the rear triangle a separate piece and connect it with a cheap rocker and shock than make a sturdy hardtail frame
I think he's probably one of those e-moped city riders.
he said: "36 volt is barley enough pushing amps too"... it would have been easier to understand and actually theoretically more correct if he had said: "barely enough for pushing amps"
"When Ohm published his formula in 1827, his key finding was that the amount of electric current flowing through a conductor is directly proportional to the voltage imposed on it. In other words, one volt of pressure is required to push one amp of current through one ohm of resistance." https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn...s-ohms-law
that's how i learned it in school, voltage pushes amperage; whether you think 36v is enough is the debatable part, and of course like most people he may not have understood the difference between voltage and amperage.
the better way to remember this is that current(amperage) is what actually does the work, and in the case of these bike motors, the factory ratings wrt torque are seldom comparable, both with the motors themselves and how things like tire size affect the geared output... that's why personal opinions from people who have actually used the bike are important here.
Would this be recommended for someone looking for a regular e-bike? I'm not a mountain biker or anything like that. I just want to do "regular" biking in parks etc not really off roading or anything like that.
Any recommendations at this price range? I currently ride a Diamondback Axis hardtail and I'm happy with it and don't want full suspension. I just need something that will help me go up so i can ride back down. This is for downhill trail riding.
Wolftick just dropped an unboxing on a very nicely speccd mid drive hard tail for $1,300.
Would this be recommended for someone looking for a regular e-bike? I'm not a mountain biker or anything like that. I just want to do "regular" biking in parks etc not really off roading or anything like that.
After deciding that this bike was worth upgrading I put about $500 into mine.
Better tires are pretty much mandatory for the woods. And then pedals with grip pegs. The originals are fine until they get muddy and you're pounding downhill through rocks.
Then I upgraded the front suspension. I can charge much harder through the rocks now.
Those alone make the nasty stuff very doable. For about $350.
This winter I replaced the rear shock and changed the grip shifter to a trigger shifter. Another $150. I haven't tried those out yet. It will be a while before the snow is gone and the trails dry out and I can ride again.
I don't mean to suggest that this bike needs upgrades. Other than the tires, this bike is very capable for casual MTBing in stock form. I like to tinker and push myself and my equipment harder than either probably should be pushed.
Any chance you could post the fork and rear shock you bought?
Got mine today and just got back from a quick ride. Coming from a 750w hub motor fat bike it feels much more nimble and the mid-drive feels super smooth. Immediately went down a trail I've avoided on the fatty due to it being relatively steep and tight and had no issues. On the road on the way to the trails it feels good but slow compared what I'm used to. Will definitely get more consistent workouts on this, no throttling while I cool down. Glad it's more what I hoped than feared.
I want a daily rider to get me across a large city. I'm assuming I want a 38mph bike. Any opinions on why I could settle for less? Is 20mph really *ok*? An will 38mph feel like too much for a tiny pole of metal? I can't drive in traffic if it's 20mph either. Also maybe that should be added to the posts. The speed it can do. Many cut you off. I would think a normal person can pedal at 20mph
I want a daily rider to get me across a large city. I'm assuming I want a 38mph bike. Any opinions on why I could settle for less? Is 20mph really *ok*? An will 38mph feel like too much for a tiny pole of metal? I can't drive in traffic if it's 20mph either. Also maybe that should be added to the posts. The speed it can do. Many cut you off. I would think a normal person can pedal at 20mph
You need a motorcycle or a car or a truck.
I've been racing motorcycles (in the woods) for 30+ years and I don't ride motorcycles (or bicycles) on the street due to safety concerns. I suggest you get a car or truck for your stated purpose.
Last edited by BrianRange March 9, 2024 at 06:24 PM.
Anyone tall pick this up? I am 6' 5" 265 pounds. I usually bike XL frame. I don't mind having to get a longer stem to make it work for me but idk if it will be enough? I ordered off Amazon since Walmart is out of stock for me, won't ship to my zip code. Amazon chat said they will accept a used assembled return, that's why I feel better about ordering without sitting on it, looking for input though.
for years I have wanted an ebike. I have a "gravel" road bike XL frame 700c tires as well as a GT Force 3.0 XL frame 26" mountain bike. I don't ride them often as my area is just full of hills, weather it's on road or off road. I am hoping this ebike with assistance up hills will help "flatten out" the terrain and get me back out exercising more.
Anyone tall pick this up? I am 6' 5" 265 pounds. I usually bike XL frame. I don't mind having to get a longer stem to make it work for me but idk if it will be enough? I ordered off Amazon since Walmart is out of stock for me, won't ship to my zip code. Amazon chat said they will accept a used assembled return, that's why I feel better about ordering without sitting on it, looking for input though.
for years I have wanted an ebike. I have a "gravel" road bike XL frame 700c tires as well as a GT Force 3.0 XL frame 26" mountain bike. I don't ride them often as my area is just full of hills, weather it's on road or off road. I am hoping this ebike with assistance up hills will help "flatten out" the terrain and get me back out exercising more.
You will love the mid-drive motor. It flattens out hills. That's what it does best.
This bike's geometry is one size only and made for the "average" sized person. You are much larger than average. I hope you can make it work for you. It's certainly worth a try at this price.
Good luck and stay well.
Last edited by BrianRange March 9, 2024 at 08:07 PM.
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Anyone tall pick this up? I am 6' 5" 265 pounds. I usually bike XL frame. I don't mind having to get a longer stem to make it work for me but idk if it will be enough? I ordered off Amazon since Walmart is out of stock for me, won't ship to my zip code. Amazon chat said they will accept a used assembled return, that's why I feel better about ordering without sitting on it, looking for input though.
for years I have wanted an ebike. I have a "gravel" road bike XL frame 700c tires as well as a GT Force 3.0 XL frame 26" mountain bike. I don't ride them often as my area is just full of hills, weather it's on road or off road. I am hoping this ebike with assistance up hills will help "flatten out" the terrain and get me back out exercising more.
Short answer, yes, you can make it work for your size. This bike has a pretty long wheelbase, as long as many modern XL enduro MTBs, so it's certainly not a small bike. You will need a longer seat post for sure, if your pant leg inseem is more than 33-34". You will probably want a longer stem. The stock stem is only 45mm long, so you can easily swap in a 70-80mm stem for longer effective reach. You might want taller riser bars, as the stock ones only have about an inch of rise (and they are steel, so you will save a little weight by upgrading to alloy). Wider bars will also provide a little more effective reach (the stock bars are 720mm wide).
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1) The pivots in the frame are small, AND they use cheap bushings. Bushings are actually good if done right (Ibis uses bushings in some of their suspension pivots), but owners of this bike report they wear out fast, and they are not lubricated.
2) The bike has pretty long chainstays. This means the bike will be more difficulty to turn around tight corners.
3) The frame only offers like 80mm of rear travel. Don't bother thinking you can just swap in a longer shock to get more travel, it doesn't work that way. Most good e-mtbs offer 140-170mm of rear travel. That's a huge difference.
4) The swingarm of this frame looks a bit anemic and weak. Look at the thickness of the tubing and all the welds near the dropouts. I've seen at least one person have the swingarm break in half at the chainstay.
5) The bike does not appear to be waterproofed well. Just look at the lack of grommet at the hole in the downtube above the motor. I don't think Hyper claims this bike is waterproof either.
6) The frame is not set up to run a dropper seatpost. Not a huge deal, because their are way around this, but it's something that should have been addressed when this bike was designed.
Things you kind of need to upgrade if you wish to use it a fair amount offroad:
1) Drivetrain upgrade. The cheap rear derailleur will cause a terrible amount of chain slap and will likely cause the chain to be thrown off. The freewheel has a pretty narrow range of gearing, and combined with the large chainring in the front, will result in difficulty climbing steep hills. Grip shifters kind of suck offroad, especially the cheap ones.
2) Rear wheel upgrade. First, the stock wheel is a huge weak point, as I've seen several reports of axles breaking and the freewheel breaking. Second, because it uses a freewheel, upgrading the drivetrain is very limited. A wheel with a freehub (vs freewheel) really opens the options up for great wide-range cassettes. Third, bolt-on axles suck, and a rear wheel with a quick-release is a huge convenience.
3) Brake upgrade. At the minimum, you probably want to swap out the brake pads for something with better bite, but honestly, hydraulic brakes (even the cheaper ones) are a huge upgrade, especially on a bike that weighs more than 50 pounds.
4) Fork upgrade. The stock fork would be fine for very occasional offroad use for a light weight rider, but serious riding will greatly benefit from a fork with an air spring (to adjust fork preload for rider weight), better damping, and thicker stanchions (less flex and deflection). Even a cheap $150-200 "take-off" fork would be a huge improvement.
5) Taller riders are probably going to need to swap out the bars with something with more rise, as the stack height of this bike is very low.
6) Dropper seatpost. Not a necessity, but it's nice to have. You don't really appreciate a dropper until you have used one. You can go externally routed and run the cable housing up the top tube and secure it with zipties and electrical tape, or use a dropper with the lever integrated into the post under the saddle, so no remote is needed. I'm not a fan of drilling holes in frames.
I've ridden and raced gas-powered bikes in the woods for over 40 years.And I rode all over Moab on MTB before there ever was suspension. I'm not on Team Red Bull but I can get through the woods pretty well, even at 57 yrs. old.
This motor is great and helps me up to the cell tower here (800' vert. climb) and I ride back down a nasty singletrack that is loaded with granite rocks. It's been handling it fine. Even better after I upgraded the fork. With the motor I can do multiple laps. With my analog bike I never felt like doing more than one. This motor is plenty strong and I don't think you'll find any stronger ones on other eMTBs. (look at the Newton Metres of torque, not the wattage)
The Vinka motor is very well sealed and is rated for non-pressurized water spray. The connections are no more vulnerable than any other e-bike. I have ridden through crank-deep creeks with no issues.
It's not going to compete with the specs. of a $3k bike but if you're ok with that you won't regret buying this bike. I'm tempted to grab another at this price for spares and/or a buddy bike for guests.
Hyper support has been great. Emails replied to within hours, in normal English, and knowledgeable folks on the phone. They usually have batteries in stock. Some other parts are also in stock. If not, they come on the slow boat but are very reasonably priced.
Check out Vegas Hyper Adventures on Youtube. He has a fleet of these bikes for his guided tours and does some good reviews. He bought his bikes just like us so he's not biased in his reviews.
If you have a lot more $ to spend then this is the next-level deal I would look at:
https://slickdeals.net/f/17330331-bulls-ebike-copperhead-evo-am-1-750-bosch-cx-2999?src=catego
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"When Ohm published his formula in 1827, his key finding was that the amount of electric current flowing through a conductor is directly proportional to the voltage imposed on it. In other words, one volt of pressure is required to push one amp of current through one ohm of resistance." https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn...s-ohms-law
that's how i learned it in school, voltage pushes amperage; whether you think 36v is enough is the debatable part, and of course like most people he may not have understood the difference between voltage and amperage.
the better way to remember this is that current(amperage) is what actually does the work, and in the case of these bike motors, the factory ratings wrt torque are seldom comparable, both with the motors themselves and how things like tire size affect the geared output... that's why personal opinions from people who have actually used the bike are important here.
https://www.bikeexchang
Might be worth a look.
Video here
https://youtu.be/IlG3-fa75cY?si=5ZJ2D
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Better tires are pretty much mandatory for the woods. And then pedals with grip pegs. The originals are fine until they get muddy and you're pounding downhill through rocks.
Then I upgraded the front suspension. I can charge much harder through the rocks now.
Those alone make the nasty stuff very doable. For about $350.
This winter I replaced the rear shock and changed the grip shifter to a trigger shifter. Another $150. I haven't tried those out yet. It will be a while before the snow is gone and the trails dry out and I can ride again.
I don't mean to suggest that this bike needs upgrades. Other than the tires, this bike is very capable for casual MTBing in stock form. I like to tinker and push myself and my equipment harder than either probably should be pushed.
Fork: https://www.walmart.com/ip/RockSh.../569587922
Fork adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRFQ...b_ap_
Shock: https://www.newegg.com/hi-bike-ao...01PP-000P7
I have another fork new in box. If you're in Maine, USA I'll sell it to you cheaper than online.
There's a guy on the Tube that listed all the parts that he decided to change that also might be helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RE4w8E
I've been racing motorcycles (in the woods) for 30+ years and I don't ride motorcycles (or bicycles) on the street due to safety concerns. I suggest you get a car or truck for your stated purpose.
for years I have wanted an ebike. I have a "gravel" road bike XL frame 700c tires as well as a GT Force 3.0 XL frame 26" mountain bike. I don't ride them often as my area is just full of hills, weather it's on road or off road. I am hoping this ebike with assistance up hills will help "flatten out" the terrain and get me back out exercising more.
for years I have wanted an ebike. I have a "gravel" road bike XL frame 700c tires as well as a GT Force 3.0 XL frame 26" mountain bike. I don't ride them often as my area is just full of hills, weather it's on road or off road. I am hoping this ebike with assistance up hills will help "flatten out" the terrain and get me back out exercising more.
This bike's geometry is one size only and made for the "average" sized person. You are much larger than average. I hope you can make it work for you. It's certainly worth a try at this price.
Good luck and stay well.
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for years I have wanted an ebike. I have a "gravel" road bike XL frame 700c tires as well as a GT Force 3.0 XL frame 26" mountain bike. I don't ride them often as my area is just full of hills, weather it's on road or off road. I am hoping this ebike with assistance up hills will help "flatten out" the terrain and get me back out exercising more.
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