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Eco-Worthy-US via eBay has select Eco-Worthy LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Multi-Purpose Batteries on sale for the prices listed below when you apply Extra 20% Off coupon code SPRINGSAVE20 at checkout. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter Meowssi for finding this deal.
Look, I appreciate you engaging but I've been designing battery charges for a long time.
you are misunderstanding the old school ways of setting charge modes and profiles for lead acid batteries. the charge mode and float mode are legacy methods associated with iron core transformers and liner voltage regulators when you needed to physically switch between current levels and voltage levels.
modern chargers current charge up to a taper voltage level then switch to constance voltage mode which is typically 13.5-13.8v. anyway I am sure your understanding is lost in semantic nuances. it's not your fault but I want to help people in the thread understand how it works enough to have the right perceptions.
I won't get into the chemistry but when you put an SLA cell above about 14 ish volts you start to dissociate hydrogen in the electrolyte. That is gas. You may have noticed flooded batts are vented and SLA batteries have pressure release valves built in for this reason to prevent bad things . see this great article here https://www.batteriesplus.com/blo...ry-venting
Don't tell me to stop. I'm just correcting you erroneous statements I'm not trying to pick on you. I think you are just extrapolating wrong statements from some simple misunderstandings of the electronics and battery systems
Trust an EE PhD as hard as that might be.
have a great day. and happy to direct you to good articles if interested.
SLA and LiFePO battery chemistries have different charging voltages. An SLA battery has a range from ~11.59-12.46v corresponding to 0% and 100% state of charge. A LiFePO battery's range however is ~10-14.6v.
The charger in a UPS is designed for SLA will cut off charging when the battery reaches 12.46v and shut off the UPS when the battery drops close to 11.59v. That means the LiFePO will never be full charged or discharged. So in that sense it's safe to use in a UPS.
However because it will keep the battery to SLA specs, you'll only be using approximately 23% of the battery's capacity. So that 10ah LiFePO will behave more like a 2.25ah SLA battery in the UPS.
I just installed a Basement Watchdog battery backup sump pump but I haven't purchased a battery yet. I'm pretty unfamiliar with the various types of batteries, does anyone know if one of these would be acceptable for a sump pump?
Very stupid question time and I will take my lashings as long as I get at least one non stupid answer
Kids ride-on toys typically use SLA style batteries, vs ebikes which use Lithium Ion batteries.
Where in that spectrum do these LiFePO4 batteries fall? Can you upgrade a kids ride-on car with one of these as long as you match voltage? Similar question for using these on a full fledged e-bike. I have dabbled with both building ebikes as well as modding my kids ride-on toys. But I cannot for the life of me figure out if these LiFePO4 style batteries are similar to either technology.
Alternatively, could these be used to replace the 12v battery in my RV?
If we are modding ride-on toys, I upgraded my 12v to 18volts. That makes things a bit more exciting. But that was a few years ago with a SLA battery
Dang thats a great price for the 100ah one! I thought the Li Time Mini 100ah was good at $199 during Black Friday. Not sure how this brand compares to the Li Time though.
Amazon has 100ah ones for $140 ish. I picked them up after some YouTube reviews
Anyone use the 10Ah for their UPS? I read very mixed messages. Some say it works fine with BMS and others say it is a bad idea and lead acid is better for UPS. If it lasts more than twice as long as lead acid it might be worth it.
Biggest issue is if your SLAs are being constantly discharged you need something either bigger or more reliable- mine will tripnow and then, it's just the sheer age that kills the lead acid. (dealing with it now)
Ok so, please don't hate on me for what I'm about to say.
Am I the only redneck in here???
My mind goes to ATV's and dirt bikes.
I've done my research best I can and this is what I think is the case....
These are Deep Cell Batteries.
Good for things that don't need high CCA to start something up.
ATV's and dirt bikes (gas powered engine) need something with HIGH CCA.
These are good for camper trailers as it is not starting up GAS engine that requires high CCA.
CCA is basically how much power it can throw to it's intended source (like a gas engine) in short amount of time.
Starting a gas engine needs a crap ton of Energy thrown at it 1st thing in the morning on a cold day.
This is the reason it is not good for ATV, dirt bikes, and cars.
The 30 amp hour one is listed on Amazon and shows a power wheels pic. So, I'd guess it would work for that. Because it is not starting a gas powered engine that needs a crap ton of CCA.
A couple of these in a camper trailer (since they use deep cycle) would be a good option. your not starting a gas engine so ...don't need the CCA. Just need the slow drizzle of E supply. Kinda like my prostate and pee in the morning. Slow and low.
I looked at my dirt bike with the lithium ion battery I put in.
It says it has 120 CCA.
I cannot find how many CCA these batteries have for the life of me.
I'd assume, low CCA. So not ideal for gas engines that require a high CCA needed to get the thing started 1st thing in the morning.
This is a lot of info, that I spent looking into over the past hour.
It may have miss information, and for that reason please correct me where I am wrong.
I'm just looking for something to start my freaking ATV.
I'm tired of doing the lead acid and replacing it on a yearly basis because they suck and tend to have a 1 year life before they crap out.
Again, please correct where I'm wrong as I do not want to spread wrong info.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Azrael_the_Cat
Quote
from soloma
:
Please stop. Go read Victron documentation about charging profiles.
Float mode it used for float, not to charge battery .
Gas? What gas?
Look, I appreciate you engaging but I've been designing battery charges for a long time.
you are misunderstanding the old school ways of setting charge modes and profiles for lead acid batteries. the charge mode and float mode are legacy methods associated with iron core transformers and liner voltage regulators when you needed to physically switch between current levels and voltage levels.
modern chargers current charge up to a taper voltage level then switch to constance voltage mode which is typically 13.5-13.8v. anyway I am sure your understanding is lost in semantic nuances. it's not your fault but I want to help people in the thread understand how it works enough to have the right perceptions.
I won't get into the chemistry but when you put an SLA cell above about 14 ish volts you start to dissociate hydrogen in the electrolyte. That is gas. You may have noticed flooded batts are vented and SLA batteries have pressure release valves built in for this reason to prevent bad things . see this great article here https://www.batteriesplus.com/blo...ry-venting
Don't tell me to stop. I'm just correcting you erroneous statements I'm not trying to pick on you. I think you are just extrapolating wrong statements from some simple misunderstandings of the electronics and battery systems
Trust an EE PhD as hard as that might be.
have a great day. and happy to direct you to good articles if interested.
Last edited by Azrael_the_Cat March 8, 2024 at 08:49 AM.
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Ok so, please don't hate on me for what I'm about to say.
Am I the only redneck in here???
My mind goes to ATV's and dirt bikes.
I've done my research best I can and this is what I think is the case....
These are Deep Cell Batteries.
Good for things that don't need high CCA to start something up.
ATV's and dirt bikes (gas powered engine) need something with HIGH CCA.
These are good for camper trailers as it is not starting up GAS engine that requires high CCA.
CCA is basically how much power it can throw to it's intended source (like a gas engine) in short amount of time.
Starting a gas engine needs a crap ton of Energy thrown at it 1st thing in the morning on a cold day.
This is the reason it is not good for ATV, dirt bikes, and cars.
The 30 amp hour one is listed on Amazon and shows a power wheels pic. So, I'd guess it would work for that. Because it is not starting a gas powered engine that needs a crap ton of CCA.
A couple of these in a camper trailer (since they use deep cycle) would be a good option. your not starting a gas engine so ...don't need the CCA. Just need the slow drizzle of E supply. Kinda like my prostate and pee in the morning. Slow and low.
I looked at my dirt bike with the lithium ion battery I put in.
It says it has 120 CCA.
I cannot find how many CCA these batteries have for the life of me.
I'd assume, low CCA. So not ideal for gas engines that require a high CCA needed to get the thing started 1st thing in the morning.
This is a lot of info, that I spent looking into over the past hour.
It may have miss information, and for that reason please correct me where I am wrong.
I'm just looking for something to start my freaking ATV.
I'm tired of doing the lead acid and replacing it on a yearly basis because they suck and tend to have a 1 year life before they crap out.
Again, please correct where I'm wrong as I do not want to spread wrong info.
Thanks!!!
You aren't crazy, those don't have CCA they don't operate the same way. The internal impedance of the cells and the BMS especially will limit the output current. The 10AH for instance has a CCA equivalent of 20A which is the max pulse rating of the battery. But engine standards that's useless.
Anyone use these for boat trolling motor yet? If so, what are your thoughts?
Even though I am not using the same battery "brand", they are all made of the same blue cells. You don't know what they have inside that sealed box. I see quite a few complaints for batteries on amazon, these can get bad cells occasionally.
These are sold mentioning trolling motors, so no problems here. Not to get stuck in the middle of the bay or lake get the biggest battery you can handle. Not clear what application of the trolling motor you are looking into. People run them for speed on kayaks or to use on min. speed for actual trolling on bigger and heavier boats. Common advice is to add PWM module between the battery and the motor to save some juice and be able to smoothly choose the speed you want. Some new trolling motors already have PWM circuits and brushless motors. Can't comment on brushless usage and efficiency, I read mixed opinions on those.
I made my own 100A battery from cells from china. Did not get grade A as promised though, but it was an experiment and a good lesson dealing with that site. Now we can get a sealed battery with BMS from the US for what I paid couple years ago. It's a good idea to test that battery ASAP for performance. Anyway, my 30lb Minnkota was drawing 52A max at full power on my tandem kayak. Used 8GA wires about a yard long and they were kinda warm. Added PWM control and I think I saw some extended runtime. So, take a note what battery BMS capacity is. Your motor may be 30lb or 65lb or 100lb, expect a much higher current draw based on wind, currents, gross weight, etc. otherwise, your BMS will shut off and some of them are tricky to restart.
Last edited by BeigeMammoth7511 March 6, 2024 at 07:23 AM.
Anyone use the 10Ah for their UPS? I read very mixed messages. Some say it works fine with BMS and others say it is a bad idea and lead acid is better for UPS. If it lasts more than twice as long as lead acid it might be worth it.
Just a note on your suggested use, I can't speak specifically for UPS, however what I found switching from lead acid to LifePo4 in my RV s the charging cycle is different, I had to purchase a entirely new converter that has the charging loop for lithium. That stated, I would say your charging is at a minimum going to be sub-optimal. Unless your UPS specifically can handle lithium, your going to not be charging the battery correctly regardless of the battery BMS.
Can anyone tell me the physical dimensions of the 12v 30a battery? I looked on eBay could not find them. I have a jnc 660 jump box that needs a replacement battery. I was wondering would this fit inside my jump box. I have very little experience with these types of lithium batteries : would this if it fits be a good replacement in a jump box ?
Some of these same batteries are listed on Amazon. Those listings show the dimensions.
This is incorrect. You will not find SLA chargers or charging at 14.4-14.8. If you did, you could slap any SLA charger on a LiFePo4 and this wouldn't be an issue. The issue of needing a Li-specific charger is precisely because of this. 13.6 will not charge LiFe even slowly. 13.6 is float.
I've had a pair of 7AH LiFePO4 batteries in an APC UPS for a few months. Just pulled them out to check because of what I've read here. One is at 13.4V and the other is at 13.8V, so both are essentially fully charged for batteries where the flat part of the curve is around 3.2V. Balancing is obviously a potential issue when they are in series. I just put the low one on a bench supply to charge and then will put the set back into the UPS. It has worked fine in the few outages we've had so far. Most have been blips or very short outages.
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you are misunderstanding the old school ways of setting charge modes and profiles for lead acid batteries. the charge mode and float mode are legacy methods associated with iron core transformers and liner voltage regulators when you needed to physically switch between current levels and voltage levels.
modern chargers current charge up to a taper voltage level then switch to constance voltage mode which is typically 13.5-13.8v. anyway I am sure your understanding is lost in semantic nuances. it's not your fault but I want to help people in the thread understand how it works enough to have the right perceptions.
I won't get into the chemistry but when you put an SLA cell above about 14 ish volts you start to dissociate hydrogen in the electrolyte. That is gas. You may have noticed flooded batts are vented and SLA batteries have pressure release valves built in for this reason to prevent bad things
https://www.batteriespl
Don't tell me to stop. I'm just correcting you erroneous statements I'm not trying to pick on you. I think you are just extrapolating wrong statements from some simple misunderstandings of the electronics and battery systems
Trust an EE PhD as hard as that might be.
have a great day. and happy to direct you to good articles if interested.
The charger in a UPS is designed for SLA will cut off charging when the battery reaches 12.46v and shut off the UPS when the battery drops close to 11.59v. That means the LiFePO will never be full charged or discharged. So in that sense it's safe to use in a UPS.
However because it will keep the battery to SLA specs, you'll only be using approximately 23% of the battery's capacity. So that 10ah LiFePO will behave more like a 2.25ah SLA battery in the UPS.
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Kids ride-on toys typically use SLA style batteries, vs ebikes which use Lithium Ion batteries.
Where in that spectrum do these LiFePO4 batteries fall? Can you upgrade a kids ride-on car with one of these as long as you match voltage? Similar question for using these on a full fledged e-bike. I have dabbled with both building ebikes as well as modding my kids ride-on toys. But I cannot for the life of me figure out if these LiFePO4 style batteries are similar to either technology.
Alternatively, could these be used to replace the 12v battery in my RV?
If we are modding ride-on toys, I upgraded my 12v to 18volts. That makes things a bit more exciting. But that was a few years ago with a SLA battery
Am I the only redneck in here???
My mind goes to ATV's and dirt bikes.
I've done my research best I can and this is what I think is the case....
These are Deep Cell Batteries.
Good for things that don't need high CCA to start something up.
ATV's and dirt bikes (gas powered engine) need something with HIGH CCA.
These are good for camper trailers as it is not starting up GAS engine that requires high CCA.
CCA is basically how much power it can throw to it's intended source (like a gas engine) in short amount of time.
Starting a gas engine needs a crap ton of Energy thrown at it 1st thing in the morning on a cold day.
This is the reason it is not good for ATV, dirt bikes, and cars.
The 30 amp hour one is listed on Amazon and shows a power wheels pic. So, I'd guess it would work for that. Because it is not starting a gas powered engine that needs a crap ton of CCA.
A couple of these in a camper trailer (since they use deep cycle) would be a good option. your not starting a gas engine so ...don't need the CCA. Just need the slow drizzle of E supply. Kinda like my prostate and pee in the morning. Slow and low.
I looked at my dirt bike with the lithium ion battery I put in.
It says it has 120 CCA.
I cannot find how many CCA these batteries have for the life of me.
I'd assume, low CCA. So not ideal for gas engines that require a high CCA needed to get the thing started 1st thing in the morning.
This is a lot of info, that I spent looking into over the past hour.
It may have miss information, and for that reason please correct me where I am wrong.
I'm just looking for something to start my freaking ATV.
I'm tired of doing the lead acid and replacing it on a yearly basis because they suck and tend to have a 1 year life before they crap out.
Again, please correct where I'm wrong as I do not want to spread wrong info.
Thanks!!!
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Azrael_the_Cat
Float mode it used for float, not to charge battery .
Gas? What gas?
Look, I appreciate you engaging but I've been designing battery charges for a long time.
you are misunderstanding the old school ways of setting charge modes and profiles for lead acid batteries. the charge mode and float mode are legacy methods associated with iron core transformers and liner voltage regulators when you needed to physically switch between current levels and voltage levels.
modern chargers current charge up to a taper voltage level then switch to constance voltage mode which is typically 13.5-13.8v. anyway I am sure your understanding is lost in semantic nuances. it's not your fault but I want to help people in the thread understand how it works enough to have the right perceptions.
I won't get into the chemistry but when you put an SLA cell above about 14 ish volts you start to dissociate hydrogen in the electrolyte. That is gas. You may have noticed flooded batts are vented and SLA batteries have pressure release valves built in for this reason to prevent bad things
https://www.batteriespl
Don't tell me to stop. I'm just correcting you erroneous statements I'm not trying to pick on you. I think you are just extrapolating wrong statements from some simple misunderstandings of the electronics and battery systems
Trust an EE PhD as hard as that might be.
have a great day. and happy to direct you to good articles if interested.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Am I the only redneck in here???
My mind goes to ATV's and dirt bikes.
I've done my research best I can and this is what I think is the case....
These are Deep Cell Batteries.
Good for things that don't need high CCA to start something up.
ATV's and dirt bikes (gas powered engine) need something with HIGH CCA.
These are good for camper trailers as it is not starting up GAS engine that requires high CCA.
CCA is basically how much power it can throw to it's intended source (like a gas engine) in short amount of time.
Starting a gas engine needs a crap ton of Energy thrown at it 1st thing in the morning on a cold day.
This is the reason it is not good for ATV, dirt bikes, and cars.
The 30 amp hour one is listed on Amazon and shows a power wheels pic. So, I'd guess it would work for that. Because it is not starting a gas powered engine that needs a crap ton of CCA.
A couple of these in a camper trailer (since they use deep cycle) would be a good option. your not starting a gas engine so ...don't need the CCA. Just need the slow drizzle of E supply. Kinda like my prostate and pee in the morning. Slow and low.
I looked at my dirt bike with the lithium ion battery I put in.
It says it has 120 CCA.
I cannot find how many CCA these batteries have for the life of me.
I'd assume, low CCA. So not ideal for gas engines that require a high CCA needed to get the thing started 1st thing in the morning.
This is a lot of info, that I spent looking into over the past hour.
It may have miss information, and for that reason please correct me where I am wrong.
I'm just looking for something to start my freaking ATV.
I'm tired of doing the lead acid and replacing it on a yearly basis because they suck and tend to have a 1 year life before they crap out.
Again, please correct where I'm wrong as I do not want to spread wrong info.
Thanks!!!
You have a very reasonable question/concern.
These are sold mentioning trolling motors, so no problems here. Not to get stuck in the middle of the bay or lake get the biggest battery you can handle. Not clear what application of the trolling motor you are looking into. People run them for speed on kayaks or to use on min. speed for actual trolling on bigger and heavier boats. Common advice is to add PWM module between the battery and the motor to save some juice and be able to smoothly choose the speed you want. Some new trolling motors already have PWM circuits and brushless motors. Can't comment on brushless usage and efficiency, I read mixed opinions on those.
I made my own 100A battery from cells from china. Did not get grade A as promised though, but it was an experiment and a good lesson dealing with that site. Now we can get a sealed battery with BMS from the US for what I paid couple years ago. It's a good idea to test that battery ASAP for performance. Anyway, my 30lb Minnkota was drawing 52A max at full power on my tandem kayak. Used 8GA wires about a yard long and they were kinda warm. Added PWM control and I think I saw some extended runtime. So, take a note what battery BMS capacity is. Your motor may be 30lb or 65lb or 100lb, expect a much higher current draw based on wind, currents, gross weight, etc. otherwise, your BMS will shut off and some of them are tricky to restart.
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Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
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