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Eco-Worthy LiFePO4 Batteries: 12V 50Ah Battery $96, 12V 30Ah Battery
$64
$85
24% off
& More + Free S/Hat eBay
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Update: This popular deal is still available.
Eco-Worthy-US via eBay has select Eco-Worthy LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Multi-Purpose Batteries on sale for the prices listed below when you apply Extra 20% Off coupon code SPRINGSAVE20 at checkout. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter Meowssi for finding this deal.
Examples (prices after code SPRINGSAVE20):
Eco-Worthy-US via eBay has select Eco-Worthy LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Multi-Purpose Batteries on sale for the prices listed below when you apply Extra 20% Off coupon code SPRINGSAVE20 at checkout. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter Meowssi for finding this deal.
Examples (prices after code SPRINGSAVE20):
- 12V
- 24V
- 24V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery $359.99
- 48V
- & More
No Longer Available:
- 12V
- 12V 10Ah LiFePO4 Battery $28.55
Editor's Notes
Written by powerfuldoppler | Staff- About this deal:
- Coupon offer valid through March 17, 2024 at 11:59PM Pacific Time while supplies last.
- About this store:
- eBay Seller Info:
- eco-worthy-us (8,948 feedback rating)
- 98.2% Positive feedback
- Return Policy:
- 30 day returns (Buyer pays for return shipping).
- eBay Seller Info:
- Please see original post for additional details & give the WIKI and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion.
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Update: This popular deal is still available.
Eco-Worthy-US via eBay has select Eco-Worthy LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Multi-Purpose Batteries on sale for the prices listed below when you apply Extra 20% Off coupon code SPRINGSAVE20 at checkout. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter Meowssi for finding this deal.
Examples (prices after code SPRINGSAVE20):
Eco-Worthy-US via eBay has select Eco-Worthy LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Multi-Purpose Batteries on sale for the prices listed below when you apply Extra 20% Off coupon code SPRINGSAVE20 at checkout. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter Meowssi for finding this deal.
Examples (prices after code SPRINGSAVE20):
- 12V
- 24V
- 24V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery $359.99
- 48V
- & More
No Longer Available:
- 12V
- 12V 10Ah LiFePO4 Battery $28.55
Editor's Notes
Written by powerfuldoppler | Staff- About this deal:
- Coupon offer valid through March 17, 2024 at 11:59PM Pacific Time while supplies last.
- About this store:
- eBay Seller Info:
- eco-worthy-us (8,948 feedback rating)
- 98.2% Positive feedback
- Return Policy:
- 30 day returns (Buyer pays for return shipping).
- eBay Seller Info:
- Please see original post for additional details & give the WIKI and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion.
Community Voting
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Top Comments
you are misunderstanding the old school ways of setting charge modes and profiles for lead acid batteries. the charge mode and float mode are legacy methods associated with iron core transformers and liner voltage regulators when you needed to physically switch between current levels and voltage levels.
modern chargers current charge up to a taper voltage level then switch to constance voltage mode which is typically 13.5-13.8v. anyway I am sure your understanding is lost in semantic nuances. it's not your fault but I want to help people in the thread understand how it works enough to have the right perceptions.
I won't get into the chemistry but when you put an SLA cell above about 14 ish volts you start to dissociate hydrogen in the electrolyte. That is gas. You may have noticed flooded batts are vented and SLA batteries have pressure release valves built in for this reason to prevent bad things
https://www.batteriespl
Don't tell me to stop. I'm just correcting you erroneous statements I'm not trying to pick on you. I think you are just extrapolating wrong statements from some simple misunderstandings of the electronics and battery systems
Trust an EE PhD as hard as that might be.
have a great day. and happy to direct you to good articles if interested.
The charger in a UPS is designed for SLA will cut off charging when the battery reaches 12.46v and shut off the UPS when the battery drops close to 11.59v. That means the LiFePO will never be full charged or discharged. So in that sense it's safe to use in a UPS.
However because it will keep the battery to SLA specs, you'll only be using approximately 23% of the battery's capacity. So that 10ah LiFePO will behave more like a 2.25ah SLA battery in the UPS.
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168 Comments
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Kids ride-on toys typically use SLA style batteries, vs ebikes which use Lithium Ion batteries.
Where in that spectrum do these LiFePO4 batteries fall? Can you upgrade a kids ride-on car with one of these as long as you match voltage? Similar question for using these on a full fledged e-bike. I have dabbled with both building ebikes as well as modding my kids ride-on toys. But I cannot for the life of me figure out if these LiFePO4 style batteries are similar to either technology.
Alternatively, could these be used to replace the 12v battery in my RV?
If we are modding ride-on toys, I upgraded my 12v to 18volts. That makes things a bit more exciting. But that was a few years ago with a SLA battery
Am I the only redneck in here???
My mind goes to ATV's and dirt bikes.
I've done my research best I can and this is what I think is the case....
These are Deep Cell Batteries.
Good for things that don't need high CCA to start something up.
ATV's and dirt bikes (gas powered engine) need something with HIGH CCA.
These are good for camper trailers as it is not starting up GAS engine that requires high CCA.
CCA is basically how much power it can throw to it's intended source (like a gas engine) in short amount of time.
Starting a gas engine needs a crap ton of Energy thrown at it 1st thing in the morning on a cold day.
This is the reason it is not good for ATV, dirt bikes, and cars.
The 30 amp hour one is listed on Amazon and shows a power wheels pic. So, I'd guess it would work for that. Because it is not starting a gas powered engine that needs a crap ton of CCA.
A couple of these in a camper trailer (since they use deep cycle) would be a good option. your not starting a gas engine so ...don't need the CCA. Just need the slow drizzle of E supply. Kinda like my prostate and pee in the morning. Slow and low.
I looked at my dirt bike with the lithium ion battery I put in.
It says it has 120 CCA.
I cannot find how many CCA these batteries have for the life of me.
I'd assume, low CCA. So not ideal for gas engines that require a high CCA needed to get the thing started 1st thing in the morning.
This is a lot of info, that I spent looking into over the past hour.
It may have miss information, and for that reason please correct me where I am wrong.
I'm just looking for something to start my freaking ATV.
I'm tired of doing the lead acid and replacing it on a yearly basis because they suck and tend to have a 1 year life before they crap out.
Again, please correct where I'm wrong as I do not want to spread wrong info.
Thanks!!!
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Float mode it used for float, not to charge battery .
Gas? What gas?
Look, I appreciate you engaging but I've been designing battery charges for a long time.
you are misunderstanding the old school ways of setting charge modes and profiles for lead acid batteries. the charge mode and float mode are legacy methods associated with iron core transformers and liner voltage regulators when you needed to physically switch between current levels and voltage levels.
modern chargers current charge up to a taper voltage level then switch to constance voltage mode which is typically 13.5-13.8v. anyway I am sure your understanding is lost in semantic nuances. it's not your fault but I want to help people in the thread understand how it works enough to have the right perceptions.
I won't get into the chemistry but when you put an SLA cell above about 14 ish volts you start to dissociate hydrogen in the electrolyte. That is gas. You may have noticed flooded batts are vented and SLA batteries have pressure release valves built in for this reason to prevent bad things
https://www.batteriespl
Don't tell me to stop. I'm just correcting you erroneous statements I'm not trying to pick on you. I think you are just extrapolating wrong statements from some simple misunderstandings of the electronics and battery systems
Trust an EE PhD as hard as that might be.
have a great day. and happy to direct you to good articles if interested.
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Am I the only redneck in here???
My mind goes to ATV's and dirt bikes.
I've done my research best I can and this is what I think is the case....
These are Deep Cell Batteries.
Good for things that don't need high CCA to start something up.
ATV's and dirt bikes (gas powered engine) need something with HIGH CCA.
These are good for camper trailers as it is not starting up GAS engine that requires high CCA.
CCA is basically how much power it can throw to it's intended source (like a gas engine) in short amount of time.
Starting a gas engine needs a crap ton of Energy thrown at it 1st thing in the morning on a cold day.
This is the reason it is not good for ATV, dirt bikes, and cars.
The 30 amp hour one is listed on Amazon and shows a power wheels pic. So, I'd guess it would work for that. Because it is not starting a gas powered engine that needs a crap ton of CCA.
A couple of these in a camper trailer (since they use deep cycle) would be a good option. your not starting a gas engine so ...don't need the CCA. Just need the slow drizzle of E supply. Kinda like my prostate and pee in the morning. Slow and low.
I looked at my dirt bike with the lithium ion battery I put in.
It says it has 120 CCA.
I cannot find how many CCA these batteries have for the life of me.
I'd assume, low CCA. So not ideal for gas engines that require a high CCA needed to get the thing started 1st thing in the morning.
This is a lot of info, that I spent looking into over the past hour.
It may have miss information, and for that reason please correct me where I am wrong.
I'm just looking for something to start my freaking ATV.
I'm tired of doing the lead acid and replacing it on a yearly basis because they suck and tend to have a 1 year life before they crap out.
Again, please correct where I'm wrong as I do not want to spread wrong info.
Thanks!!!
You have a very reasonable question/concern.
These are sold mentioning trolling motors, so no problems here. Not to get stuck in the middle of the bay or lake get the biggest battery you can handle. Not clear what application of the trolling motor you are looking into. People run them for speed on kayaks or to use on min. speed for actual trolling on bigger and heavier boats. Common advice is to add PWM module between the battery and the motor to save some juice and be able to smoothly choose the speed you want. Some new trolling motors already have PWM circuits and brushless motors. Can't comment on brushless usage and efficiency, I read mixed opinions on those.
I made my own 100A battery from cells from china. Did not get grade A as promised though, but it was an experiment and a good lesson dealing with that site. Now we can get a sealed battery with BMS from the US for what I paid couple years ago. It's a good idea to test that battery ASAP for performance. Anyway, my 30lb Minnkota was drawing 52A max at full power on my tandem kayak. Used 8GA wires about a yard long and they were kinda warm. Added PWM control and I think I saw some extended runtime. So, take a note what battery BMS capacity is. Your motor may be 30lb or 65lb or 100lb, expect a much higher current draw based on wind, currents, gross weight, etc. otherwise, your BMS will shut off and some of them are tricky to restart.
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