12-oz Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus Complete Fuel System Cleaner
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NAPA Online has 12-oz Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus Complete Fuel System Cleaner on sale for $5.49. Select free store pickup where available.
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Thanks to community members Arok79 and gdclnfn for sharing this deal.
Alternatively, AutoZone has 12-oz Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus Complete Fuel System Cleaner on sale at 2 for $12 when you follow the instructions below. Select free store pick up where available. Otherwise, shipping is free on $35+ orders.
Buy One, Get One Free Promo at Autozone. 12-oz Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus Complete Fuel System Cleaner on sale at 2 for $11.99 when you follow the instructions below. Select free store pick up where available. Otherwise, shipping is $8.99 or free on $35+ orders.
From what I remember, neither one said it was the most useless additive.
All the additives had their issues, and none met the claims they all say they do.
Their tests were very controlled and if I recall only focused on the top end of the engine - not other parts of the fuel system or injectors???
That HondaCare warranty was your smartest thing you purchased w/your CR-V. Extended warranties need to be factored into a new car purchase and should be purchased, with the amount of crazy electronics and other components that are not like older vehicles.
BTW, been having the Christmas Tree of Lights issue on my Honda due to the injectors - I keep erasing the code with my BlueDriver app/OBD-II reader. Hoping Honda does the right thing and issues a warranty extension on them (as they did with the Honda Pilot a few years ago and their injector issues)...and I'm only 80k miles!;
Cars are no longer cars - they are electronic boxes on wheels!
This is the most useless additive verified by ChrisFix and Project Farm lol
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank cullenj76
04-03-2024 at 02:26 PM.
For those that care, this product has the second most PEA concentration by volume than other cleaners, second only to Redline.
Project farm is great and all, but they are narrowly focused on their testing, to the point that it becomes pretty irrelevant. Their test measures one aspect of a product with many benefits unconsidered.
This stuff isn't going to morph into unicorn and dive into your motor with a Dremel, but it is among the best in its market.
Just Google "PEA content injector cleaner list" or to that effect, and learn for yourself.
Also, Amazon has 32oz bottles regularly priced at $18.
How can I search online for what type of fuel injetor my car has?
Should be mentioned in the specs for your car from the manufacturer. This site is a good archive of car brochures with specs: https://auto-brochures.com
Makes lots of smoke, but doesn't clean intake valve carbon very well. At least try a product designed for this purpose, like CRC GDI Intake Valve Cleaner[crcindustries.com] or Lucus Oil Deep Clean GDI[lucasoil.ca]. Neither of these is going to be as good as a mechanical clean (e.g. walnut blasting), but that's far more labor intensive and requires special equipment.
This is a must for anyone with a Honda 1.5L Direct Injection engine!!
...or await the recall / extended warranty on clogged fuel injectors!
** Note, this comment is directed towards those with newer Accords, CR-V's, and Civic with the 1.5L Turbo engine...
Honda's reliability has steadily gone downhill for the last 8 years or so. Their customer service is god-awful too. Honda never took responsibility for their oil dilution problems and had to be sued. There are other problems with their cars as well. Look up Technical Service Bulletins and you'll see all of the issues for yourself. Hyundai & Kia are another brand I'd stay away from. GDI technology should be scrapped entirely. It's caused so many uncessary problems just to improve gas mileage by 2-3 miles per gallon.
How can I search online for what type of fuel injetor my car has?
Almost all GM car/suv engines <4L are DI after around 2008-2010
Toyota still uses EFI in many models until 2017/2018. Their tacoma(4 cyl), 4runner, Lexus GX have EFI until 2023/2024. Toyota puts engine model on door sticker, like 2GR-FE, you can easily search it in google or wikipedia
Ford had EFI v6 until 2017
Stellantis v6 are still EFI but their I4 is DI.
Remove engine's beauty cover, if you see extra metal piping and a metal cylinder next to camshaft, that's the high pressure fuel pump and pipes for DI.
or go to any online part store, enter your vehicle info and search for fuel pump or fuel injector. If you see 2 different types of pump (one in tank, one next to camshaft), or if your injector is full metal, with long nozzle, and super expensive, that's DI.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank SeanD1497
04-03-2024 at 06:37 PM.
Quote
from JL5
:
From what I remember, neither one said it was the most useless additive.
All the additives had their issues, and none met the claims they all say they do.
Their tests were very controlled and if I recall only focused on the top end of the engine - not other parts of the fuel system or injectors???
I don't remember what I saw specifically, but quite a few years ago somebody ran well-controlled tests on a bunch of pour-in additives, and concluded that Techron was one of the few that probably did anything useful. It is PEA-based (polyether amine), which is pretty well regarded as one of the few truly effective fuel injector cleaners because it actually does dissolve carbon deposits. A lot of people on Bobistheoilguy swear by it, and that place is full of skeptics. I wouldn't just pour anything into my tank of course.
For cleaning the intake path and other stuff, something like Seafoam may work better. That and B12 Chemtool have been independently tested to work for soaking pistons (can help with some cases of excessive oil consumption), and Seafoam cleans intake runners when sucked in through a vacuum line. Inspection cameras are cheap these days - you can take a look before and after yourself.
Of course no additive is going to fix a problem that lies elsewhere, or one that doesn't exist, so surely a lot of people waste money on this sort of thing all the time. I wouldn't expect Marvel Mystery Oil to save a dying engine, but Techron isn't snake oil.
Honda's reliability has steadily gone downhill for the last 8 years or so. Their customer service is god-awful too. Honda never took responsibility for their oil dilution problems and had to be sued. There are other problems with their cars as well. Look up Technical Service Bulletins and you'll see all of the issues for yourself. Hyundai & Kia are another brand I'd stay away from. GDI technology should be scrapped entirely. It's caused so many uncessary problems just to improve gas mileage by 2-3 miles per gallon.
I want to agree but I can't fully because I believe the end of your statement is the root of the issues facing car makers today. They are being forced, by non-elected bureaucrats, with agendas, behind politicians being forced by similar agendas to come up with all of these new MPG & CARB standards.
Car makers are having to make these new engines without the proper testing and engineering that has been the standard in the past. We are driving the test engineering they are doing now to properly figure these engines out. The engineering will eventually get there.
Another area that car makers are dealing with, is reducing total weight, to gain another 1-2 mpg. Take the battery. In a Honda, you're lucky to get 4-5 years out of a brand new car battery - more likely 3.5 years. I've never in my life, have gone through 2 batteries in 6-7 years. On my 3rd battery, I went with slightly more powerful battery type, with more Cold Cranking Amps, and a bit heavier - that battery will last a longer period of time I feel. Same goes for all the plastic parts on these cars - all about losing weight to get that 1-2 mpg more.
I just recently bought a Hybrid - I went with Toyota because Toyota has been doing Hybrid for 20+ years and you rarely hear of Toyota Hybrid issues - I believe they are the best at it - much better than all of the other car makers trying to do Hybrid. I wouldn't touch a Hyundai, Kia, or any other Korean or Chinese designed/made vehicle. Same goes for Nissan - they are not what they once were. Ford, Chevy, & Dodge - Nope - been there - done that - NEVER again! I won't even mention European.
That, unfortunately, leaves us with either Toyota AND Honda - and while Honda may have their engineering growth issues, I'd take them over any of those others listed above if you want reliability - you just need to make sure and factor into your purchase price to purchase a FACTORY Extended warranty if you plan to keep it - these parts today are NOT cheap & the warranty will pay for itself on the 1st major repair. It will be a money maker on the 2nd major repair!
Honda's reliability has steadily gone downhill for the last 8 years or so.
That's a pretty bold, specific statement. What's your evidence, aside from personal experience with a car or two? Everything I've seen directly contradicts this.
This isn't meant to be authoritative, but I know a very experienced Honda tech. He says they rarely do anything major to vehicles less than 5-6 years old, aside from precautionary recalls that don't produce symptoms in most cars, and most of their repair (non-maintenance) work is on high mileage vehicles and ones that have been badly neglected. I do own a Honda but it's my first in a long time and is only up to 50k, and well maintained by me. I'm a big fan of Mazda reliability though - we've had a ton in the family and they've only every needed routine maintenance, without exception (not counting my RX-7's back in the day, of course).
I want to agree but I can't fully because I believe the end of your statement is the root of the issues facing car makers today. They are being forced, by non-elected bureaucrats, with agendas, behind politicians being forced by similar agendas to come up with all of these new MPG & CARB standards.
Car makers are having to make these new engines without the proper testing and engineering that has been the standard in the past. We are driving the test engineering they are doing now to properly figure these engines out. The engineering will eventually get there.
Another area that car makers are dealing with, is reducing total weight, to gain another 1-2 mpg. Take the battery. In a Honda, you're lucky to get 4-5 years out of a brand new car battery - more likely 3.5 years. I've never in my life, have gone through 2 batteries in 6-7 years. On my 3rd battery, I went with slightly more powerful battery type, with more Cold Cranking Amps, and a bit heavier - that battery will last a longer period of time I feel. Same goes for all the plastic parts on these cars - all about losing weight to get that 1-2 mpg more.
I just recently bought a Hybrid - I went with Toyota because Toyota has been doing Hybrid for 20+ years and you rarely hear of Toyota Hybrid issues - I believe they are the best at it - much better than all of the other car makers trying to do Hybrid. I wouldn't touch a Hyundai, Kia, or any other Korean or Chinese designed/made vehicle. Same goes for Nissan - they are not what they once were. Ford, Chevy, & Dodge - Nope - been there - done that - NEVER again! I won't even mention European.
That, unfortunately, leaves us with either Toyota AND Honda - and while Honda may have their engineering growth issues, I'd take them over any of those others listed above if you want reliability - you just need to make sure and factor into your purchase price to purchase a FACTORY Extended warranty if you plan to keep it - these parts today are NOT cheap & the warranty will pay for itself on the 1st major repair. It will be a money maker on the 2nd major repair!
I agree with you mostly. The cafe standards ruined the automobile industry. Toyota is the only reliable car manufacturer left and if you do have problems, they're more likely to stand behind their product than the rest. Toyota is extremely conservative too. They let the fools rush in and wait until the dust settles, before deciding whether or not to implement the latest technology. But I personally don't like being forced to drive a hybrid either. I don't want to worry about two different powertrains.
I wouldn't touch a Hyundai, Kia, or any other Korean or Chinese designed/made vehicle. Same goes for Nissan - they are not what they once were. Ford, Chevy, & Dodge - Nope - been there - done that - NEVER again! I won't even mention European.
I don't understand this, partly because you're lumping Chinese and Korean cars together, and partly because Hyundai consistently rank high on reliability and initial quality rankings, competing well against American and Japanese brands. I wouldn't buy their smallest, cheapest models, for a lot of reasons, but their various breads and butter models are very well built. Or are you just referring to hybrids? If that's the case, yes, Toyota is obvious and only choice. I hate the cheezey, faux-racer styling cues they like to slap onto everything, but I think a Camry Hybrid might be in my future. And now they have a hybrid AWD minivan? That's a crazy combo!
Nissan? Hard pass. A guy I worked with had a theory that every time you notice a car that looks like it's in pain or is falling apart, it's a Nissan Altima. So of course I notice beater Altimas every day now. I don't know, maybe it's to their credit that they can be beat to hell and stay on the road? We don't have state safety inspections here so we see some ROUGH cars.
For all the credit that vaunted "German engineering" gets, their cars seem to break down a LOT. VW dealerships are relatively well liked, but that's because they get a lot of practice, since every owner spends a lot of time there. My old BMW still runs great at 180k miles but it has leaked everything from everywhere for a long time, as if it thinks it's British.
Almost all GM car/suv engines <4L are DI after around 2008-2010
Toyota still uses EFI in many models until 2017/2018. Their tacoma(4 cyl), 4runner, Lexus GX have EFI until 2023/2024. Toyota puts engine model on door sticker, like 2GR-FE, you can easily search it in google or wikipedia
Ford had EFI v6 until 2017
Stellantis v6 are still EFI but their I4 is DI.
Remove engine's beauty cover, if you see extra metal piping and a metal cylinder next to camshaft, that's the high pressure fuel pump and pipes for DI.
or go to any online part store, enter your vehicle info and search for fuel pump or fuel injector. If you see 2 different types of pump (one in tank, one next to camshaft), or if your injector is full metal, with long nozzle, and super expensive, that's DI.
A 2GR-FE is a 4ds injector setup which is a combo of port and GDI (there are 12 injectors on this engine) so something like Techron is good for injector cleaning and the port injectors do decent role of intake port quenching. I don't do specific intake maint on this engine.
I only know this because I have one with this 3.5 and I have a number of Hyundai which I treat with GRC cleaner once a year along w/ Techron. You can just use tier 1 gas (which has PEA) but I also juice it once a year as per Hyundai recommendation.
Some VW have unique intake setup and they are very prone to issues, so if you are concerned go to the forum and ask.
'scuse my ignorance, but how useful would this be in an old (second gen) Ranger engine?
If it's not direct injection, which I don't think, should clean as normal. It's just the way direct injection works that doesn't reach all parts of the valve as well as port, hence why you have "carboning" issues with newer direct inject engines. With port injection, the fuel itself acts as a cleaner of the valve, back and front side, with direct, it doesn't clean as much of the valve. There are lots and lots of videos explaining why fuel (and thus fuel additive like techron) clean the valves better on older port injection engines. It's a design flaw inherent to modern direct injection engines. Basically car manufacturers have sacrificed long term reliability and maintenance for a few more MPG with DI cars in order to meet the MPG demands of the federal government. Some cars have a better design than others in terms of the valves not carboning on DI engines. Audi = Bad, Mazda = Good.
That's a pretty bold, specific statement. What's your evidence, aside from personal experience with a car or two? Everything I've seen directly contradicts this.
This isn't meant to be authoritative, but I know a very experienced Honda tech. He says they rarely do anything major to vehicles less than 5-6 years old, aside from precautionary recalls that don't produce symptoms in most cars, and most of their repair (non-maintenance) work is on high mileage vehicles and ones that have been badly neglected. I do own a Honda but it's my first in a long time and is only up to 50k, and well maintained by me. I'm a big fan of Mazda reliability though - we've had a ton in the family and they've only every needed routine maintenance, without exception (not counting my RX-7's back in the day, of course).
Take a visit over to various Honda Forums - Look at the CR-V Forums website.
Oil Dilution issues
Fuel Pump Failures
A/C compressor leaking
Fuel Injector issues
This is just a short list of Honda problems that is VERY widely complained and discussed about on these forums - so much so, that these are STICKEY'd on top of the forums. And these are vehicles in the last two Honda generations.
Honda, while a vehicle brand that has a large following and many older vehicles that easily can go 300k miles with normal upkeep, is starting to have reliability issues with these latest generations. I acknowledge that all vehicle brands have their issues but those listed above are not simple issues, they're major - and they are happening within 100k miles - well outside of the normal 3/36 warranty period.
What vehicles have required fuel injector replacement (@ $1,400+) before 100k miles?? I know of a 1999 vehicle with the original injectors in it...it still runs fine.
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All the additives had their issues, and none met the claims they all say they do.
Their tests were very controlled and if I recall only focused on the top end of the engine - not other parts of the fuel system or injectors???
BTW, been having the Christmas Tree of Lights issue on my Honda due to the injectors - I keep erasing the code with my BlueDriver app/OBD-II reader. Hoping Honda does the right thing and issues a warranty extension on them (as they did with the Honda Pilot a few years ago and their injector issues)...and I'm only 80k miles!;
Cars are no longer cars - they are electronic boxes on wheels!
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
...or await the recall / extended warranty on clogged fuel injectors!
** Note, this comment is directed towards those with newer Accords, CR-V's, and Civic with the 1.5L Turbo engine...
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank cullenj76
Project farm is great and all, but they are narrowly focused on their testing, to the point that it becomes pretty irrelevant. Their test measures one aspect of a product with many benefits unconsidered.
This stuff isn't going to morph into unicorn and dive into your motor with a Dremel, but it is among the best in its market.
Just Google "PEA content injector cleaner list" or to that effect, and learn for yourself.
Also, Amazon has 32oz bottles regularly priced at $18.
...or await the recall / extended warranty on clogged fuel injectors!
** Note, this comment is directed towards those with newer Accords, CR-V's, and Civic with the 1.5L Turbo engine...
Honda's reliability has steadily gone downhill for the last 8 years or so. Their customer service is god-awful too. Honda never took responsibility for their oil dilution problems and had to be sued. There are other problems with their cars as well. Look up Technical Service Bulletins and you'll see all of the issues for yourself. Hyundai & Kia are another brand I'd stay away from. GDI technology should be scrapped entirely. It's caused so many uncessary problems just to improve gas mileage by 2-3 miles per gallon.
Toyota still uses EFI in many models until 2017/2018. Their tacoma(4 cyl), 4runner, Lexus GX have EFI until 2023/2024. Toyota puts engine model on door sticker, like 2GR-FE, you can easily search it in google or wikipedia
Ford had EFI v6 until 2017
Stellantis v6 are still EFI but their I4 is DI.
Remove engine's beauty cover, if you see extra metal piping and a metal cylinder next to camshaft, that's the high pressure fuel pump and pipes for DI.
or go to any online part store, enter your vehicle info and search for fuel pump or fuel injector. If you see 2 different types of pump (one in tank, one next to camshaft), or if your injector is full metal, with long nozzle, and super expensive, that's DI.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank SeanD1497
All the additives had their issues, and none met the claims they all say they do.
Their tests were very controlled and if I recall only focused on the top end of the engine - not other parts of the fuel system or injectors???
For cleaning the intake path and other stuff, something like Seafoam may work better. That and B12 Chemtool have been independently tested to work for soaking pistons (can help with some cases of excessive oil consumption), and Seafoam cleans intake runners when sucked in through a vacuum line. Inspection cameras are cheap these days - you can take a look before and after yourself.
Of course no additive is going to fix a problem that lies elsewhere, or one that doesn't exist, so surely a lot of people waste money on this sort of thing all the time. I wouldn't expect Marvel Mystery Oil to save a dying engine, but Techron isn't snake oil.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Car makers are having to make these new engines without the proper testing and engineering that has been the standard in the past. We are driving the test engineering they are doing now to properly figure these engines out. The engineering will eventually get there.
Another area that car makers are dealing with, is reducing total weight, to gain another 1-2 mpg. Take the battery. In a Honda, you're lucky to get 4-5 years out of a brand new car battery - more likely 3.5 years. I've never in my life, have gone through 2 batteries in 6-7 years. On my 3rd battery, I went with slightly more powerful battery type, with more Cold Cranking Amps, and a bit heavier - that battery will last a longer period of time I feel. Same goes for all the plastic parts on these cars - all about losing weight to get that 1-2 mpg more.
I just recently bought a Hybrid - I went with Toyota because Toyota has been doing Hybrid for 20+ years and you rarely hear of Toyota Hybrid issues - I believe they are the best at it - much better than all of the other car makers trying to do Hybrid. I wouldn't touch a Hyundai, Kia, or any other Korean or Chinese designed/made vehicle. Same goes for Nissan - they are not what they once were. Ford, Chevy, & Dodge - Nope - been there - done that - NEVER again! I won't even mention European.
That, unfortunately, leaves us with either Toyota AND Honda - and while Honda may have their engineering growth issues, I'd take them over any of those others listed above if you want reliability - you just need to make sure and factor into your purchase price to purchase a FACTORY Extended warranty if you plan to keep it - these parts today are NOT cheap & the warranty will pay for itself on the 1st major repair. It will be a money maker on the 2nd major repair!
This isn't meant to be authoritative, but I know a very experienced Honda tech. He says they rarely do anything major to vehicles less than 5-6 years old, aside from precautionary recalls that don't produce symptoms in most cars, and most of their repair (non-maintenance) work is on high mileage vehicles and ones that have been badly neglected. I do own a Honda but it's my first in a long time and is only up to 50k, and well maintained by me. I'm a big fan of Mazda reliability though - we've had a ton in the family and they've only every needed routine maintenance, without exception (not counting my RX-7's back in the day, of course).
Car makers are having to make these new engines without the proper testing and engineering that has been the standard in the past. We are driving the test engineering they are doing now to properly figure these engines out. The engineering will eventually get there.
Another area that car makers are dealing with, is reducing total weight, to gain another 1-2 mpg. Take the battery. In a Honda, you're lucky to get 4-5 years out of a brand new car battery - more likely 3.5 years. I've never in my life, have gone through 2 batteries in 6-7 years. On my 3rd battery, I went with slightly more powerful battery type, with more Cold Cranking Amps, and a bit heavier - that battery will last a longer period of time I feel. Same goes for all the plastic parts on these cars - all about losing weight to get that 1-2 mpg more.
I just recently bought a Hybrid - I went with Toyota because Toyota has been doing Hybrid for 20+ years and you rarely hear of Toyota Hybrid issues - I believe they are the best at it - much better than all of the other car makers trying to do Hybrid. I wouldn't touch a Hyundai, Kia, or any other Korean or Chinese designed/made vehicle. Same goes for Nissan - they are not what they once were. Ford, Chevy, & Dodge - Nope - been there - done that - NEVER again! I won't even mention European.
That, unfortunately, leaves us with either Toyota AND Honda - and while Honda may have their engineering growth issues, I'd take them over any of those others listed above if you want reliability - you just need to make sure and factor into your purchase price to purchase a FACTORY Extended warranty if you plan to keep it - these parts today are NOT cheap & the warranty will pay for itself on the 1st major repair. It will be a money maker on the 2nd major repair!
I agree with you mostly. The cafe standards ruined the automobile industry. Toyota is the only reliable car manufacturer left and if you do have problems, they're more likely to stand behind their product than the rest. Toyota is extremely conservative too. They let the fools rush in and wait until the dust settles, before deciding whether or not to implement the latest technology. But I personally don't like being forced to drive a hybrid either. I don't want to worry about two different powertrains.
Nissan? Hard pass. A guy I worked with had a theory that every time you notice a car that looks like it's in pain or is falling apart, it's a Nissan Altima. So of course I notice beater Altimas every day now. I don't know, maybe it's to their credit that they can be beat to hell and stay on the road? We don't have state safety inspections here so we see some ROUGH cars.
For all the credit that vaunted "German engineering" gets, their cars seem to break down a LOT. VW dealerships are relatively well liked, but that's because they get a lot of practice, since every owner spends a lot of time there. My old BMW still runs great at 180k miles but it has leaked everything from everywhere for a long time, as if it thinks it's British.
Toyota still uses EFI in many models until 2017/2018. Their tacoma(4 cyl), 4runner, Lexus GX have EFI until 2023/2024. Toyota puts engine model on door sticker, like 2GR-FE, you can easily search it in google or wikipedia
Ford had EFI v6 until 2017
Stellantis v6 are still EFI but their I4 is DI.
Remove engine's beauty cover, if you see extra metal piping and a metal cylinder next to camshaft, that's the high pressure fuel pump and pipes for DI.
or go to any online part store, enter your vehicle info and search for fuel pump or fuel injector. If you see 2 different types of pump (one in tank, one next to camshaft), or if your injector is full metal, with long nozzle, and super expensive, that's DI.
I only know this because I have one with this 3.5 and I have a number of Hyundai which I treat with GRC cleaner once a year along w/ Techron. You can just use tier 1 gas (which has PEA) but I also juice it once a year as per Hyundai recommendation.
Some VW have unique intake setup and they are very prone to issues, so if you are concerned go to the forum and ask.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
This isn't meant to be authoritative, but I know a very experienced Honda tech. He says they rarely do anything major to vehicles less than 5-6 years old, aside from precautionary recalls that don't produce symptoms in most cars, and most of their repair (non-maintenance) work is on high mileage vehicles and ones that have been badly neglected. I do own a Honda but it's my first in a long time and is only up to 50k, and well maintained by me. I'm a big fan of Mazda reliability though - we've had a ton in the family and they've only every needed routine maintenance, without exception (not counting my RX-7's back in the day, of course).
This is just a short list of Honda problems that is VERY widely complained and discussed about on these forums - so much so, that these are STICKEY'd on top of the forums. And these are vehicles in the last two Honda generations.
Honda, while a vehicle brand that has a large following and many older vehicles that easily can go 300k miles with normal upkeep, is starting to have reliability issues with these latest generations. I acknowledge that all vehicle brands have their issues but those listed above are not simple issues, they're major - and they are happening within 100k miles - well outside of the normal 3/36 warranty period.
What vehicles have required fuel injector replacement (@ $1,400+) before 100k miles?? I know of a 1999 vehicle with the original injectors in it...it still runs fine.