expiredttke posted May 01, 2024 05:54 PM
Item 1 of 2
Item 1 of 2
expiredttke posted May 01, 2024 05:54 PM
Canon EOS R8 Full-Frame Mirrorless Camera (Body Only) + Extra Offers
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Full frame sensor is considerably larger and a 10mm lens will be 10mm equivalent on it. A 50mm will be 50mm on it. The R7 uses a "crop sensor" which is a smaller sensor that doesn't take advantage of the full image produced by the lens, it only uses a "crop" from the center of it. So that 10mm lens will function as if it were a 16mm lens. That 50mm will function as if it were an 80mm lens.
With that said, all "full frame" lenses ("RF" and "EF" (With adapter)) will work on both cameras.. but there are also crop-specific lenses ("RF-S") that are often smaller, lighter and cheaper since they're designed for use on a "Crop Sensor" camera like the R7.
I believe the R7 has built in image stabilization (in the body) so any lens will take advantage of it (good for video and long-length shots, or low light). R7 I think also has 2 card slots.
It depends on what your use-case is and what's important to you -- I prefer the full frame cameras as I mostly do portrait work and use "fast" (f/1.2, f/1.4) lenses and want the nice depth of field and the "full frame" looking image. Someone shooting sports might prefer the extra "zoom" (crop) of the R7, and the extra memory card slot in case one fails. Someone who wants to get into it cheaper (having more affordable RF-S lenses) might also prefer the R7 over the R8
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As compared to the R6, the cameras big brother, It lacks image stabilization, which is mostly only useful for video, weather sealing, and dual card slots.
Full frame sensor is considerably larger and a 10mm lens will be 10mm equivalent on it. A 50mm will be 50mm on it. The R7 uses a "crop sensor" which is a smaller sensor that doesn't take advantage of the full image produced by the lens, it only uses a "crop" from the center of it. So that 10mm lens will function as if it were a 16mm lens. That 50mm will function as if it were an 80mm lens.
With that said, all "full frame" lenses ("RF" and "EF" (With adapter)) will work on both cameras.. but there are also crop-specific lenses ("RF-S") that are often smaller, lighter and cheaper since they're designed for use on a "Crop Sensor" camera like the R7.
I believe the R7 has built in image stabilization (in the body) so any lens will take advantage of it (good for video and long-length shots, or low light). R7 I think also has 2 card slots.
It depends on what your use-case is and what's important to you -- I prefer the full frame cameras as I mostly do portrait work and use "fast" (f/1.2, f/1.4) lenses and want the nice depth of field and the "full frame" looking image. Someone shooting sports might prefer the extra "zoom" (crop) of the R7, and the extra memory card slot in case one fails. Someone who wants to get into it cheaper (having more affordable RF-S lenses) might also prefer the R7 over the R8
As compared to the R6, the cameras big brother, It lacks image stabilization, which is mostly only useful for video, weather sealing, and dual card slots.
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So really the only use case for IS in still photography is landscape or still life, but even then, In most landscape scenarios, shooting shutter speeds that low will introduce unacceptable amounts of blur from the wind or other natural movement, producing unsharp photos.
So maybe the use case is night time, landscape photos or trying to induce some blur, such as in moving water and compositing with a faster shot of everything else.
Still, land scape or still life, in dark environments are much better are done better with a tripod, which any advanced amateur, who wouldn't be afraid to spend 1600+ dollars on a camera should be carrying.
That leaves video. And while buttery smooth video is still much better produced using a tripod, slider or gimbal, handheld video is where IS shines.
Frankly, I don't know anyone doing handheld photography that is shooting any lens at less then 1/125 of a second, and at that minimum shutter speed, IS does nothing.
Full frame sensor is considerably larger and a 10mm lens will be 10mm equivalent on it. A 50mm will be 50mm on it. The R7 uses a "crop sensor" which is a smaller sensor that doesn't take advantage of the full image produced by the lens, it only uses a "crop" from the center of it. So that 10mm lens will function as if it were a 16mm lens. That 50mm will function as if it were an 80mm lens.
With that said, all "full frame" lenses ("RF" and "EF" (With adapter)) will work on both cameras.. but there are also crop-specific lenses ("RF-S") that are often smaller, lighter and cheaper since they're designed for use on a "Crop Sensor" camera like the R7.
I believe the R7 has built in image stabilization (in the body) so any lens will take advantage of it (good for video and long-length shots, or low light). R7 I think also has 2 card slots.
It depends on what your use-case is and what's important to you -- I prefer the full frame cameras as I mostly do portrait work and use "fast" (f/1.2, f/1.4) lenses and want the nice depth of field and the "full frame" looking image. Someone shooting sports might prefer the extra "zoom" (crop) of the R7, and the extra memory card slot in case one fails. Someone who wants to get into it cheaper (having more affordable RF-S lenses) might also prefer the R7 over the R8
I heard that the depth of field and zoom needs to be multiplied by the same 1.5 or 1.6 factor, but didn't know what else changes. TIA!
I heard that the depth of field and zoom needs to be multiplied by the same 1.5 or 1.6 factor, but didn't know what else changes. TIA!
For most people, they probably won't notice, really. It becomes more apparent when you're buying the fast lenses (like the 1.2, 1.4, etc..)
What it does is basically take the same final image as a 50mm lens on a full frame, but simply crop into it. Probably the best way to get an idea of what it will look like, is to download a full resolution image from a fullframe camera (like the R6 or R8) and then crop into it at 1.6x crop -- but imagine that with a higher resolution on the final crop. Feel free to shoot me a DM if you want and I can mock something up as an example of what the difference might look like!
For most people, they probably won't notice, really. It becomes more apparent when you're buying the fast lenses (like the 1.2, 1.4, etc..)
What it does is basically take the same final image as a 50mm lens on a full frame, but simply crop into it. Probably the best way to get an idea of what it will look like, is to download a full resolution image from a fullframe camera (like the R6 or R8) and then crop into it at 1.6x crop -- but imagine that with a higher resolution on the final crop. Feel free to shoot me a DM if you want and I can mock something up as an example of what the difference might look like!
I've been a crop camera person for 20 years. I have the R10 now and am extremely excited by Sigma's latest announcement of producing the 18-50 F/2.8 for July. I love how small crop cameras are. I know I don't get the same quality pictures for the same lens, but crop specific lenses have the cost and size advantage. I have the RF 100-400 and getting a 640mm equivalent on such a light lens is amazing for a full frame lens. And my old T2i had already given me some great 18x24" printouts.
I always look back and wonder if I should have gotten the R8, but those incoming Sigma lenses make me happy
I'm no professional, just a hobbyist.
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I've been a crop camera person for 20 years. I have the R10 now and am extremely excited by Sigma's latest announcement of producing the 18-50 F/2.8 for July. I love how small crop cameras are. I know I don't get the same quality pictures for the same lens, but crop specific lenses have the cost and size advantage. I have the RF 100-400 and getting a 640mm equivalent on such a light lens is amazing for a full frame lens. And my old T2i had already given me some great 18x24" printouts.
I always look back and wonder if I should have gotten the R8, but those incoming Sigma lenses make me happy
I'm no professional, just a hobbyist.
I think where it crosses over to benefiting full frame cameras are when you start using the pricier high end lenses (L lenses, sigma Art lenses) and you're paying a premium for the lens, dealing with the weight, but not getting to take full advantage of the image resolution of the lens, or the full depth of field, on a crop sensor. Stuff like wide angle lenses and fast primes. For portraits, I definitely prefer the full frames, same for video, but that's because it's what I mostly shoot nowadays.
Just to clarify for anyone reading this - even though the "crop" cameras are basically a crop of the full frame image, that's mostly in terms of framing -- you'll still get an incredibly high resolution image with a sharp detail to it, which is why it's different than simply cropping a photo. It would be like having a 20 megapixel version of the "full frame" or a cropped in image which is also 20 megapixels. So you often can't get the same result by simply cropping a full frame image as you would lose quite a bit of quality
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