Woot has
DeWalt DCS578B FLEXVOLT 60V MAX 7.25" Cordless Circular Saw w/ Brake (Tool Only) on sale for
$144.99.
Shipping is free w/ Amazon Prime or is otherwise a flat $6 per order.
Thanks to community member
goodgator2000 for finding this deal.
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Product Details:
- Uses a 7-1/4-inch cordless circular saw blade and features a maximum cut depth of 2-9/16-inch at a 90 degree bevel.
- The compact circular saw has the maximum bevel capacity of 57 degree with bevel stops at 22.5 degree and 45 degree
- Electric brake stops the blade after the trigger is released
- Integrated LED for increased visibility and cut accuracy
- Integrated rafter hook for quick and easy storage
- Battery and charger sold separately
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More power than a corded circ saw.
I use this daily cutting 2" hardwood countertops.
Note that this only uses the 60v batteries, not the 20v.
So all your other 20v tools CAN use the 60v batteries, but this tool CAN'T use the 20v (hope that makes sense).
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More power than a corded circ saw.
I use this daily cutting 2" hardwood countertops.
Note that this only uses the 60v batteries, not the 20v.
So all your other 20v tools CAN use the 60v batteries, but this tool CAN'T use the 20v (hope that makes sense).
Obviously lol
I get click happy, miss some important (and usually obvious detail like that), and have to cancel orders or return things. So I see where they're coming from 😅
More power than a corded circ saw.
I use this daily cutting 2" hardwood countertops.
Note that this only uses the 60v batteries, not the 20v.
So all your other 20v tools CAN use the 60v batteries, but this tool CAN'T use the 20v (hope that makes sense).
You have more skills than I. I use the 60v tracksaw for that. Which, I wonder, how the power compares. Someone send a tracksaw in for TTC!
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It all comes down to the history of jobsite circular saws. West coast had the worm drive saws with blade left, east coast favored the direct drive "sidewinder" saws, blade right. Seems most manufacturers still follow these two form factors for the professional size saws. They offer other options in the smaller saws.
I'm still not sure if the blade right or left was due to technical limitations (motor rotation direction?) or just preference. Funny how preferences are different based on geography.
Same with commercial trucks having Dayton spoke wheels in the east, but pretty rare in the west.
Stanley Black and Decker makes Dewalt. In the past they also made a Craftsman 60v self propelled lawnmower. They didn't make any replacement batteries, so withing 1-3 years the lawnmowers were inoperable due to battery defects and just dying out.
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It's something you have to try for yourself. I personally settled on crosscutting when I'm holding the piece with my left hand, saw on right hand (e.g. framing) to prefer the blade right, because then the weight and shoe of the saw will rest on the piece (not the off cut) with more stability. And I can use a framing square as a guide. In this situation a blade left saw would have most of its shoe and weight on the offcut, and if you're not used to it, then it's easy to end up with non square cuts. Blade left also feels sketchy when using a framing square as guide as your hand holding the square is really close to the blade. Experience will mitigate all those problems.
But for ripping (long cuts) and cutting things that are secured (i.e. I'm not holding it with my left hand), I like to stand to the left of what I'm cutting and use a blade left saw. I get great visibility of the cut, and I can walk along with the rip cut.
I think this is why most 7-1/4 framing saws are blade right, and 6-1/2 trim saws are blade left, with the exception of the "West Coast worm drive" which is a bit of a freak in the rest of the world. In Europe no one uses a worm drive.