creality_refurbished via eBay has
Creality Ender 3 V3 SE FDM 3D Printer (Certified - Refurbished) on sale for
$99.20 when you apply coupon code
HOTSEASON20 during checkout.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter
Meowssi for sharing this deal.
About this Item:
- Includes a 2-year warranty serviced by Allstate
- Printing Technology: FDM
- Build Volume: 220x220x250mm
- Product Dimensions: 349*364*490mm
- Printing Speed: 180mm/s (Typical), 250mm/s (Max)
- Layer Height: 0.1-0.35mm
- Printing Accuracy: +0.1mm
- Leveling Mode: Auto Leveling
- Nozzle Temperature: <260°C
- Heatbed Temperature:<100°C
- Supported Filaments: PLA, PETG,TPU(95A)
Top Comments
Great printer for this price. Those who caution against this as "just another Ender" need to undesrstand the difference between the old Ender 3 Pro or similar and this.
1. This is quite a bit faster than an old Ender 3 though not as fast as the printers with vibration compensation.
2. This has auto bed leveling and Z-offset. The bed leveling works great and mine's out of the box level was very good. While it does have auto-z offset I did dial mine in a bit.
3. This does require assembly but nothing like the old Enders. The assembly steps are put the gantry on the base, put the spool holder on the gantry. Connect the screen, connect some wires.
Something I don't like when compared to the Ender 3 V2 is the fan noise. The Ender 3 and 3 Pro had quiet fans but loud stepper motors. With the V2 the fixed the loud steppers and, likely thanks to the slow print speeds, the fans were quite as well. With the V3 the print speeds went up so the fans had to get stronger thus noisier. Not really loud but not quiet.
One other nice thing about the Ender printers is there is a lot of knowledge base and options for them. You also have a lot of slicer options as the Enders are so common. For better and worse this printer doesn't directly support network printing but that also means, unlike Bambu Labs, this system isn't trying to contact unknown Chinese servers from your network.
Two things I don't care for, I created a side mount filament holder since I don't really like putting the heavy spool on top of the gantry. I also don't like that this printer doesn't have a handy tool holder spot like some of the other Enders. Perhaps a minor thing is it doesn't come with a PEI build plate. I picked one up for $14. I've put masking tape on the original plate. Masking tape is actually a great build surface. The Monoprice Cadet printer didn't have a heated bed because PLA sticks to masking tape so nicely. When the surface gets torn up, replace it.
TLDR:
Great printer. The biggest limitation is that I had to adjust the auto z-axis.
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I'm thinking about road tripping down to Miami lol.
Bambu labs is on another planet compared to these POS.
Original Reply: Yours must have had a defective z-offset pressure sensor (not sure of the proper name, it's located under the front left side of the build plate) because my kids and my brother in law bought the SE and they also worked perfectly out of the box. 8 months later and not once have they had to tinker, they just work which is why I am considering buying another for myself, especially since we paid ~$180 at the time.
We did however buy PEI plates on Amazon, so the stock build plates were never used, as we read that they were terrible prior to purchase.
Yours must have had a defective z-offset pressure sensor (not sure of the proper name, it's located under the front left side of the build plate) because my kids and my brother in law bought the SE and they also worked perfectly out of the box. 8 months later and not once have they had to tinker, they just work which is why I am considering buying another for myself, especially since we paid ~$180 at the time.
We did however buy PEI plates on Amazon, so the stock build plates were never used, as we read that they were terrible prior to purchase.
I'm pretty happy with the results. You sometimes have to calibrate flow, but only if you use filament that wasn't made by Bambulabs. Most of the time I don't have to do that though.
Yours must have had a defective z-offset pressure sensor (not sure of the proper name, it's located under the front left side of the build plate) because my kids and my brother in law bought the SE and they also worked perfectly out of the box. 8 months later and not once have they had to tinker, they just work which is why I am considering buying another for myself, especially since we paid ~$180 at the time.
We did however buy PEI plates on Amazon, so the stock build plates were never used, as we read that they were terrible prior to purchase.
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It wasn't large enough so I bought an Anycubic Kobra 2 Max more recently for $264.91 refurbished and I am still tinkering with it to get the perfect settings.
My V3 KE is producing perfect prints every time now after adjusting and tuning the x, y and z on it. I do print more out of the V3 KE than the K2Max because it runs so smoothly right now with the current settings.
https://slickdeals.net/f/17683143-creality-sonic-pad-5-extra-nozzles-pla-filament-102-free-shipping?p=1722
There is nothing modular on the bottom to attach any z braces like you can on any previous printers so you have to just drill into the side of the printer to try to stabilize it. While not obvious from the pictures, the z axis pieces are triangular which makes it impossible to add anything modularly like you could previous printers. The top of the Z-axis is also plastic (again ruling out modularity). The print bed has zero adjustment unless you unscrew the bed and shim it. There is no room for adding leveling knobs. If your bed isn't level, you either shim it or live with it. The auto z works by pressing the nozzle against the print plate until a load cell in the bed detects a force and logs that z position as the z offset between the nozzle and the probe. It then probes the bed to compensate for how out of level the bed is. Those that have printers with BL touch or CR touch know that bed mesh leveling doesn't fix your prints unless your bed is fairly level to start. Imagine if you couldn't level your bed at all.
Mine seemed to print Okay with stock settings if I slowed it down. Unfortunately, I have a sonicpad that use with my other printers and thought I'd use it with this. You cannot just plug into the USB port like normal. You have to buy a special serial adapter and plug the monitor cable into that. I think it's $10, but nothing in the instructions I received mentioned it so I wasted a few hours trying to get it to connect before finding out about the adapter. (I was installing right after they released the firmware to allow it to connect so maybe it's better now) My print quality fell apart after getting the serial cable and getting the sonicpad connected. My bed appeared to be fairly flat with stock software, but I'm guessing they do a calibration at the factory to make it look better than it actually is. Once I tried to level with the Sonicpad, I had the most unlevel bed I've ever had with any of my printers. There was no way to fix it without shimming. I started checking and found that the z axis was not level in the x axis and the Y axis wasn't level either. You can adjust the threaded rod for the Y axis though. This now just sits it the back of my closet until I decide to rob parts off of it for my other printers.
I would avoid this and the V3 KE as they are both going to suffer from unstable z axis due to being bolted to plastic. Creality released this printer and the KE right after each other, but curiously released a different version called Ender 3 V3 that does away with the plastic that ruined this one. It doesn't appear to be modular either, but I would assume it is more stable and less likely to be wobbly warped plastic.
If I am not mistaken I purchased from this very seller as well. Looked brand new.
As a complete beginner to printing, I have had zero issue with this printer and attribute it to the auto-z (which I have recalibrated maybe 6 times so far - I only do it as maintenance.. never had a problem with the z level off or first layer adherence issues). Maybe Im lucky, who knows.
Take it for what it is, but I'm very pleased with this machine. True set it and forget it most days.
The PEI build plate is something else I saw on reviews after I posted, and seems everyone says it is almost a must to have to prevent headaches. Same for the x-axis setup. It can also handle a bit higher temps and more types of filament.
Looks like a few small upgrades over the SE that aren't absolute deal breakers, but are definitely nice to have.
Network printing and speed are not big deals for me (at least I don't think they are), moving files to a SD card and inserting it does not bother me, and it is not like I plan on printing 10 things a day. I have a few little things I plan on making, but after that, it may sit for months not being used (or maybe not?)
Touch screen vs dial wheel are not issues for me either.
But since I got it set up 5 hours ago, I have printed 4 things, and am on my 5th.
Have 3 more things I want to print, but that can wait till tomorrow.
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Get a Bambu Labs A1 or A1 Mini if you're new to the hobby. It's a plug and play printer that's ideal for beginners. It's also a lot faster at printing.
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