eco-worthy-us via eBay has
2-Pack ECO-WORTHY 14kWh 51.2V 280AH LiFePO4 Solar Battery Backup w/ 200A BMS + Busbar (Version2) on sale for $4199.99 - $350 with coupon code
FRESHPICKS at checkout =
$3849.99.
Shipping is free.
Note: Also includes bonus 400A Busbar with 6×M8 Studs.
Thanks to staff member
Skillful_Pickle for sharing this deal.
About this Item:
- Battery Capacity: 280Ah each
- Battery Power: 14336Wh each
- Rated Voltage: 51.2V
- Voltage Range: 40~58.4V
- Maximum Charge/ Discharge Current: 200A
- Charge Temperature Range: 0-55℃
- Discharge Temperature Range:﹣20－55℃
- Maximum Charge Voltage: 58.4V
- Screw size: M8
- Battery Size: 20.5x9.9x29.3in
- Battery Weight: 297.6lb/135kg each
- Max. parallel units: 15
- Connectors: RS232 / CAN / RS485
- Manufacturer Page for more details.
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Install a whole home transfer switch or a generator interlock.
Plug in the battery/inverter (this plus a large inverter, or the Delta Pro or similar) into the generator/backup input port.
Install a special breaker to charge the battery/inverter that you will turn off when on battery power.
Manually switch to the generator during outages and switch back when grid power is back. Turn on the battery charging breaker when power is back.
I use this $150 transfer switch [vevor.com] to bypass the inverter and feed the panel directly from the grid when I need to do inverter/battery maintenance, for example, and it's ... fine, does the job, no issue. 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 SER wiring cost me about $8/foot, and I bought 10ft. The battery breaker, even like a 50amp ($20?), plus associated socket ($35 for a wall-mount socket) and AWG6 wiring, maybe $2/foot and assume maybe 25 ft?
The battery and inverter is where it'll get spendy. But this would almost certainly meet code as long as the individual components are UL listed and you're absolutely sure to turn off the battery charging breaker before switching to the battery feed.
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What options do I have? Also, how easy is it to add additional panels to the system?
What options do I have? Also, how easy is it to add additional panels to the system?
Beyond that, I don't know enough about your system. Adding panels is an option that might work if you have the physical space to do so. Upgrading your panels from whatever it is now to another might work if you have minimal space—modern 400W panels are about 69"x43" and if you have, say 10-year old 250W panels that are 65"x39", you might get 30 percent more energy in the same space.
Finally consider demand too. For example, if you have a traditional electric water heater that uses 5000W resistance heater, maybe consider a one-size larger heat pump water heater that will draw closer to 1000W on average. Maybe you can switch to cold water detergents for your dishwasher and clothes washer. Or maybe it's the electric clothes dryer that's costing a lot, in which case a heatpump unit may work for you. If you have an EV, see if there's an off-peak or separately metered plan that might work from your energy company. If it's an old, inefficient HVAC, consider replacing that, or supplementing that with heat pump mini-splits in rooms that are used more and turning down/off the main ducted unit. Or maybe, like me, you're in a brick house with terrible insulation and the cooling bill is the problem and insulation or lime-washing is a solution that would work.
I don't really know enough, but it's worth thinking through all the options and going for the one that makes the most sense financially. Batteries are just one tool amongst many.
https://www.energy.ca.g
Are these things UL listed? I'm guessing not since they don't mention certification anywhere.
Expect to spend about double for a UL listed battery....consult with CEC list for ones already meeting California Energy Commision standards.
https://www.energy.ca.gov/program...ment-lists
I don't mind manual intervention, but the solar guy I talked to said it would take 10k of wiring to make it come to code. That said, he's the guy that wants to sell the 16k system.
I was trying to figure out if there was a way to use an approx $4k battery and, even if I have to throw a switch, have solar keep working (in a code - compliant manner) during a power outage.
A lot of it depends on what exactly your electrical set up is. Hard to tell you without that—if you have a critical loads panel (probably not) then it's relatively easy. If not, then one option could look like this:
- Install a whole home transfer switch or a generator interlock.
- Plug in the battery/inverter (this plus a large inverter, or the Delta Pro or similar) into the generator/backup input port.
- Install a special breaker to charge the battery/inverter that you will turn off when on battery power.
- Manually switch to the generator during outages and switch back when grid power is back. Turn on the battery charging breaker when power is back.
I use this $150 transfer switch [vevor.com] to bypass the inverter and feed the panel directly from the grid when I need to do inverter/battery maintenance, for example, and it's ... fine, does the job, no issue. 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 SER wiring cost me about $8/foot, and I bought 10ft. The battery breaker, even like a 50amp ($20?), plus associated socket ($35 for a wall-mount socket) and AWG6 wiring, maybe $2/foot and assume maybe 25 ft?The battery and inverter is where it'll get spendy. But this would almost certainly meet code as long as the individual components are UL listed and you're absolutely sure to turn off the battery charging breaker before switching to the battery feed.
If I currently have solar, into a Tesla PowerWall 3 which is around 13kWh, could I add this into that setup for additional redundancy?
Simple answer is no. The Tesla PW3 has an integrated inverter which it is not possible to add additional batteries to. AFAIK
You likely shouldn't do this, but just to explore the possibility - if you took these batteries and connected them to a grid-forming inverter such as the Schneider Conext XW Pro inverter, it should be possible to introduce this system as an independent battery backup capability. In this case the Schneider system and the Tesla Powerwall would be isolated from each other. Note that you might need more than one of the Schneider inverters to manage the draw from your house, but it is possible to string them together for this purpose. However, if you already have a Tesla Powerwall 3 it's almost certainly a better idea to just buy an expansion battery for your existing system unless there is some reason why that isn't possible. Adding this to your existing system, however, would theoretically expand your battery capacity by 200% at a lower cost than the equivalent Tesla expansion.
Again, just my inexpert understanding of the possibility.
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Quote from partyk1d24
Would this work with a solar edge inverter that supports adding a battery?
No, Solaredge requires you to use their own battery. This is best for off-grid/hybrid string inverters, not grid-tied ones. Nothing stopping you from attaching a two-way charger or inverter, but probably not the most efficient way to do it because you'll have significant losses both ways.
boo.. it doesn't include an inverter :-) :-) :-)
Bought this about 10 days ago, same price, different freebie and it was really, really quick considering it had to be shipped across the country from California to DC area. They arrived yesterday and I can attest they are REALLY heavy. Suggest strongly have a friend or two to help, or maybe just hire The Mountain for a day [reddit.com]. Busbar would be really useful in retrospect—would simplify (and reduce the cost of) the wiring.
Quote from partyk1d24
Would this work with a solar edge inverter that supports adding a battery?
No, Solaredge requires you to use their own battery. This is best for off-grid/hybrid string inverters, not grid-tied ones. Nothing stopping you from attaching a two-way charger or inverter, but probably not the most efficient way to do it because you'll have significant losses both ways.
I have non solar edge batteries hooked to my solaredge inverter. But guessing not all batteries are compatible
I have learned that other batteries will not work with this solar Edge inverter. I should have got more batteries when I did the original installation because now I am stuck since the original batteries are no longer available.
That said, someone had the RESU16H for $2500 a few weeks ago, and I think it's about $2750 now, which isn't too bad considering MSRP is $7500. I just don't know whether they have compatible inverters and how you'd go about hooking them up—I looked into HV batteries but decided for safety's sake to stick to something that can't kill me if I forget to wear my linesman's gloves...
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https://diysolarforum.c
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