World Toyota via Parts Center Online is offering
25% Off Genuine Toyota Parts (discount applied at checkout).
Shipping is free on qualifying purchases over $75 (
Up to $200 value) and discounted automatically at checkout.
Note: You may search for parts via your vehicle's year/model or by VIN number. Offer excludes accessories.
Thanks to Community Member
BRPXR600R for finding this deal
Top Comments
Long life Toyota coolant is another scam. The metal in the engine will make coolant electrically conductive over time. This will affect the low level signal output of electronic sensors. Peak all vehicles coolant works great with a 30K change interval. Use distilled water if needed. Be sure to run the heater for a few minutes to remove the old coolant.
The Valvoline Maxlife ATF is another excellent substitute for Toyota's TV and WS fluids. I use Maxlife in all Toyotas since 2004. Again, stick to 30K change interval. If the transmission has accumulated more than 100K without an oil change, then drain and add only one quart of new fluid. Automatic works on fluid friction. A large change in value may cause slippage.
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Oh boy $10K for a new head unit assembly on a 2012 Camry. Sign. Me Up.
That's one of the reasons I don't like Toyotas. I have found that unlike other manufacturers, you sometimes can't buy an individual part, you have to buy the whole assembly. In general, it seams like Toyotas part prices are higher that most brands.
As far as prices go, not my experience either. Or should I say, same weird patterns here - Seams no rhythm or reason. One part for Toyota more expensive then comparable GM, next one Toyota less. And so on with all domestics and imports (with the exception of some Euro models being 'typically' more expensive, and with less aftermarket options).
As far as prices go, not my experience either. Or should I say, same weird patterns here - Seams no rhythm or reason. One part for Toyota more expensive then comparable GM, next one Toyota less. And so on with all domestics and imports (with the exception of some Euro models being 'typically' more expensive, and with less aftermarket options).
Long life Toyota coolant is another scam. The metal in the engine will make coolant electrically conductive over time. This will affect the low level signal output of electronic sensors. Peak all vehicles coolant works great with a 30K change interval. Use distilled water if needed. Be sure to run the heater for a few minutes to remove the old coolant.
The Valvoline Maxlife ATF is another excellent substitute for Toyota's TV and WS fluids. I use Maxlife in all Toyotas since 2004. Again, stick to 30K change interval. If the transmission has accumulated more than 100K without an oil change, then drain and add only one quart of new fluid. Automatic works on fluid friction. A large change in value may cause slippage.
Also agree on the Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Only stuff we use in place of WS in a toyota trans if customer want's to save a few $, and most commonly recomend 60k changes.
Disagree that Toyota coolant is a 'scam'. I've seen (unbiased) tests in the past that would indicate it's excellent, in some ways better than other off the shelf, mass marketed products. Kinda like the X brand vs Y brand synthetic oil topic...they're all good and 'work', especially if you do regular service. That said, as with the trans fluild, I agree that a shorter than factory receommended change interval (we recomend 60 on this also) is a good idea if you're planning on keeping your car...regardless of what coolant you use.
Also agree on the Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Only stuff we use in place of WS in a toyota trans if customer want's to save a few $, and most commonly recomend 60k changes.
Disagree that Toyota coolant is a 'scam'. I've seen (unbiased) tests in the past that would indicate it's excellent, in some ways better than other off the shelf, mass marketed products. Kinda like the X brand vs Y brand synthetic oil topic...they're all good and 'work', especially if you do regular service. That said, as with the trans fluild, I agree that a shorter than factory receommended change interval (we recomend 60 on this also) is a good idea if you're planning on keeping your car...regardless of what coolant you use.
The PH will drift toward the acidic scale over time. Replacing coolant is cheap and simple. The push to lifetime fluids/super long life coolant is a scam to lower the cost of ownership. Those who want to keep the vehicle for more than 200K should change fluids often.
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The PH will drift toward the acidic scale over time. Replacing coolant is cheap and simple. The push to lifetime fluids/super long life coolant is a scam to lower the cost of ownership. Those who want to keep the vehicle for more than 200K should change fluids often.
Not sure what you are challenging me on here. I never stated anything about, nor promoted extended drain intervals, let alone the 'lifetime' nonsense. Re-read my 2nd paragraph above, quite the opposite.
So, back to my comment, and now your reply, since Toyota (like all other car companies) doesn't make their coolant somehow makes the product a 'scam'? Which I guess would make OEM parts vs aftermarket a scam also, but wait…we agreed OEM pads are the way to go…as OEM is most often better than aftermarket. And guess what, OEM costs more too (parts, fluids, etc.), we all know that…what am I missing that makes their coolant a scam?
Not sure what you are challenging me on here. I never stated anything about, nor promoted extended drain intervals, let alone the 'lifetime' nonsense. Re-read my 2nd paragraph above, quite the opposite.
So, back to my comment, and now your reply, since Toyota (like all other car companies) doesn't make their coolant somehow makes the product a 'scam'? Which I guess would make OEM parts vs aftermarket a scam also, but wait…we agreed OEM pads are the way to go…as OEM is most often better than aftermarket. And guess what, OEM costs more too (parts, fluids, etc.), we all know that…what am I missing that makes their coolant a scam?
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4 or 6 cyl...04465-0E060 front, 04466-0E070 rear.
Put old shims in glass Ragu jar, fill with gasoline, and work outdoor +50 ft from open flame. Use toothbrush to clean shims. Add some grease to lubricate points of contact (shims and brake pad). No need to replace rotors if car doesn't shake during braking. Wipe disc rotor and brake pad surface with alcohol to remove oil.
Take pics of old parts before removal to ensure correct re-assembly.
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