Newark[newark.com] has 65W Multicomp Pro Soldering Station w/ LCD (MP740686) on sale for $25.99. Shipping is $9.99
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Quote
from natepaul
:
Yeah, this is all the site says...
Contents
x1 Main unit; x1 Soldering Iron; x1 Iron Holder with Copper Wire Ball; x1 Manual; x1 Grounding Wire; x1 Mains Adapter (Region Dependant - EU/US/UK);
I can attest that it looks like junk. Get a Sugon A9 or similar JBC compatible knockoff, and you'll be happy. If that's too pricey, go for a ts100 or pencil.
It seems it uses 900M tips which are cheap and I would strongly recommend Hakko brand (https://hakkousa.com/products/sol...eries.html) since they will have real stuff inside like copper and iron layer unlike cheap chromed brass I got from all the cheap fake T18 tips so I bought them from HD instead where they came out cheapest and were 100% genuine Hakko. Unfortunately 900M is "outdated" style so HD (home depot) stopped carrying them. They also have 50W non digital version for $13 https://www.newark.com/multicomp-...p/69AK5637
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Quote
from TenderMorning986
:
The price is good but is this a good soldering iron that will last for home use?
nope, 65W is the max power for Ceramic Tip Iron, with a regular price around $50.
you want Induction Tip Iron, 100W for portable usb iron ($50-$100) or +200W for station iron ($200-$300).
You want an iron to deliver a LARGE amount of heat QUICKLY.
Ceramic Tip Iron delivers SMALL amount of heat SLOWLY.
Prolong contact with PCB, melts the surrounding plastic components before the solder melts.
Prolong contact with copper wire, melts the wire insulation before the copper comes up to temperature.
Parents got me Ceramic Tip Iron when i was young. I killed lots of PCB and got lots of poor looking welds, before realizing it was the iron and not my skill.
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Quote
from BrightTank8484
:
nope, 65W is the max power for Ceramic Tip Iron, with a regular price around $50.
you want Induction Tip Iron, 100W for portable usb iron ($50-$100) or +200W for station iron ($200-$300).
You want an iron to deliver a LARGE amount of heat QUICKLY.
Ceramic Tip Iron delivers SMALL amount of heat SLOWLY.
Prolong contact with PCB, melts the surrounding plastic components before the solder melts.
Prolong contact with copper wire, melts the wire insulation before the copper comes up to temperature.
Parents got me Ceramic Tip Iron when i was young. I killed lots of PCB and got lots of poor looking welds, before realizing it was the iron and not my skill.
A correction on your terminology:
Most resistive heating soldering irons use a ceramic heater. You're confusing passive "old-style" soldering irons that swap just the tip vs active integrated cartridge-style irons that have the heater and tip in one unit. If you take apart a cartridge, you'll see that it has a ceramic heating element on the inside.
Inductive soldering irons are an entirely different thing. Your options for these are more limited. Only Metcal, Thermaltronics (started from ex-Metcal employees) or the Hakko FX-100 have this technology for soldering irons. There are pros and cons compared to resistive soldering irons, but the biggest one is inductive irons tend to be more responsive to temp drops but most don't offer temp adjustment
The rest of your info is mostly correct, but I would add that another risk of excessive heat is that pads or the PCB itself can start to delaminate. Also, there are many options nowadays for cheap high power stations: https://www.reddit.com/r/solderin...ega_guide/
Me over here soldering to PLL point on an Xbox 360 motherboard with a $4 Aliexpress iron with potentiometer temp control and a cheap chisel tip made out of zinc or some crap, and my Dollar Tree 3.25x Reading Glasses for optics (on 3 cups of coffee) getting shit done. God, I love the smell of bootleg Amtech 559 in the morning.
A correction on your terminology:Most resistive heating soldering irons use a ceramic heater. You're confusing the "old-style" soldering irons that swap just the tip vs the integrated cartridge-style irons that have the heater and tip in one unit. If you take apart a cartridge, you'll see that it has a ceramic heating element on the inside.Inductive soldering irons are an entirely different thing. Your options for these are more limited. Only Metcal, Thermaltronics (started from ex-Metcal employees) or the Hakko FX-100 have this technology for soldering irons. There are pros and cons compared to resistive soldering irons, but the biggest one is inductive irons tend to be more responsive to temp drops but most don't offer temp adjustmentThe rest of your info is mostly correct, but I would add that another risk of excessive heat is that pads or the PCB itself can start to delaminate. Also, there are many options nowadays for cheap high power stations: https://www.reddit.com/r/solderin...ega_guide/
So is this machine good for basic soldering? Currently using cheap plug in soldering iron from Amazon.
So is this machine good for basic soldering? Currently using cheap plug in soldering iron from Amazon.
It's probably about the same as your current one. They both use the same heating technology, so while this has a digital display, the temperature response on both would be similar. Fine for occasional basic use.
For the same price range you can get a T12 iron with more power (72W+) and an active tip. For a little bit more, you can start getting into JBC clones that offer performance (but not quality) approaching the original.
Being that the only other retailer on Google shopping is ZORO (a very reputable business) is 99.99, it's hard to believe that this is legit. Newark's reputation is not that favorable either during searches on the company.
It's probably about the same as your current one. They both use the same heating technology, so while this has a digital display, the temperature response on both would be similar. Fine for occasional basic use.For the same price range you can get a T12 iron with more power (72W+) and an active tip. For a little bit more, you can start getting into JBC clones that offer performance (but not quality) approaching the original.
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Contents
x1 Main unit; x1 Soldering Iron; x1 Iron Holder with Copper Wire Ball; x1 Manual; x1 Grounding Wire; x1 Mains Adapter (Region Dependant - EU/US/UK);
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank
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Contents
x1 Main unit; x1 Soldering Iron; x1 Iron Holder with Copper Wire Ball; x1 Manual; x1 Grounding Wire; x1 Mains Adapter (Region Dependant - EU/US/UK);
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank
you want Induction Tip Iron, 100W for portable usb iron ($50-$100) or +200W for station iron ($200-$300).
You want an iron to deliver a LARGE amount of heat QUICKLY.
Ceramic Tip Iron delivers SMALL amount of heat SLOWLY.
Prolong contact with PCB, melts the surrounding plastic components before the solder melts.
Prolong contact with copper wire, melts the wire insulation before the copper comes up to temperature.
Parents got me Ceramic Tip Iron when i was young. I killed lots of PCB and got lots of poor looking welds, before realizing it was the iron and not my skill.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank
you want Induction Tip Iron, 100W for portable usb iron ($50-$100) or +200W for station iron ($200-$300).
You want an iron to deliver a LARGE amount of heat QUICKLY.
Ceramic Tip Iron delivers SMALL amount of heat SLOWLY.
Prolong contact with PCB, melts the surrounding plastic components before the solder melts.
Prolong contact with copper wire, melts the wire insulation before the copper comes up to temperature.
Parents got me Ceramic Tip Iron when i was young. I killed lots of PCB and got lots of poor looking welds, before realizing it was the iron and not my skill.
Most resistive heating soldering irons use a ceramic heater. You're confusing passive "old-style" soldering irons that swap just the tip vs active integrated cartridge-style irons that have the heater and tip in one unit. If you take apart a cartridge, you'll see that it has a ceramic heating element on the inside.
Inductive soldering irons are an entirely different thing. Your options for these are more limited. Only Metcal, Thermaltronics (started from ex-Metcal employees) or the Hakko FX-100 have this technology for soldering irons. There are pros and cons compared to resistive soldering irons, but the biggest one is inductive irons tend to be more responsive to temp drops but most don't offer temp adjustment
The rest of your info is mostly correct, but I would add that another risk of excessive heat is that pads or the PCB itself can start to delaminate. Also, there are many options nowadays for cheap high power stations: https://www.reddit.com/r/solderin...ega_
For the same price range you can get a T12 iron with more power (72W+) and an active tip. For a little bit more, you can start getting into JBC clones that offer performance (but not quality) approaching the original.
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Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!