expiredhtp182 | Staff posted Dec 31, 2025 03:49 AM
Item 1 of 4
Item 1 of 4
expiredhtp182 | Staff posted Dec 31, 2025 03:49 AM
DeWALT 20V MAX 1/4" Impact Driver w/ 2.0 Ah Battery & Charger (DCF787D1)
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank freebie78
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-2...5014148639
Read my post below for a full write up on why thats also bad advice
Its really a common misnomer now that technology has gotten better that you must use a drill for this and a impact driver for that, etc. That was true a 10 years ago but not true now, at all. But back then, you only had a drill, VSR drills, etc, while the impact has been recently introduced to the job site in the last ~decade or so and has gotten quite better in terms of technology in the way of the impact. Even more so granted there is a huge (wrongly might I say) use of PH2 (Philips head) in America compared to the Pozidriv in Europe as the Philips was created to cam-out ON PURPOSE after a certain amount of torque. Impacts have a much less cam-out ratio than drills by a huge margin.
When drilling metal both drill drivers and impact drivers can be used while a drill driver may be more suitable for larger holes on metal an impact is MUCH MUCH better for smaller holes and is lighter and SAFER. Safer why? Because you can even use one hand on a impact and if the bit gets caught, the impact would just click while a driver will spin your hand around, a lot of injuries have occurred due to kickback. An impact really helps reduce cam out with removing rusted screws as well.
IMO people who keep perpetuating this myth are not working in any professional way with their driver or drill but just repeating what they heard from years ago from someone else who doesnt work professionally with their hands either. Go on any job site and I guarantee you, majority of of people besides apprentices are not using drills at all cause they're slow, they're heavy and everyone hates kickback. There are much better tools for the job and drills would only be preferred in maybe less than 5% of all jobs. Unless you are working specific niche like woodworking, doing only finishing work, drilling very large holes into metal, masonry, concrete work, an impact is a much better, quicker, lighter, safer tool than a drill. For concrete and masonry, an SDS rotary hammer. I know of electricians and maint. guys who only have a small impact hydraulic like a Milwaukee fuel that can do everything from fasteners to hole saw arbors to thick holes between posts and joists. Almost everything has been converted to work as an impact rated 1/4 hex now.
But to say you need a drill for this and a impact driver for that is a bunch of B.S. that keeps getting pushed by other non professionals. Best tool is the tool you got and the 2nd best is the safest way you can do it. Safety (kickback protection) and Comfort (on average, 1/2 the weight and size of a drill) comes with an impact. Try doing anything on a ladder, tight spaces, overhead, but wear hearing protection.
I think now the only model that still carries over from the past days are Impact Drivers vs Impact Wrenches because impact drivers usually only have a torsion tension maximum of around ~200 ft pounds while impact wrenches can go past 1000+ ft lbs which is suitable for automotive, diesel and other types of work that require high torque specifications.
You almost never want to use impact DRIVERS (unless its the only thing you have) for auto, diesel, very heavy machinery, tires, etc. because they are underpowered compared to impact WRENCHES especially when loosening fasteners as rust can expand inside threading strengthening it against shearing.
A modern impact will do everything a drill driver can do but will push through more material and impact drivers are less likely to cam out as they apply pulsed torque rather than continuous torque meaning you don't need to push as hard when screwing. Also makes it better for removing philips heads that have been rounded all while having a much smaller form factor and being much lighter in weight, which is great when youre going around tight corners or in awkward positions like overhead. Modern hydraulic impacts are also super quiet compared to their old predecessor impacts which are loud. Also impact drivers are actually better and quicker at making holes in things. Modern impact drivers have a "tightening" or "assistant" mode feature which prevents screw camouts and are designed to slow down and stop when it detects a certain amount of resistance. Impact drivers can do 90%+ of the tasks IMO.
Electricians and maintenance engies can chime in. See how long you'd last without a Fuel or impact doing rough-ins with a drill
Impact driver: Versatile; compact, reduced wrist strain, smaller footprint, less weight, less strain, can use one handed, uses 1/4 hex bits, rotates while delivering rotational impacts which delivers torque in pulses which causes less cam outs and slipping and stripping heads. Best for fasteners, long screws, lag bolts, deck, fence, screw into wood, can use an attachment to also drill into wood, quicker but less precise. Won't snap your wrist if the bit binds. You can also get a chuck adapter for masonry drills to attach to.
Drill: Generally 1/2in Keyless chuck, Great for pilot holes, precision drilling holes into wood, plastic, slower rotational force for screws. Multi speed and torque. Couple of things that you can do with drills that you cant with impact is use a wide variety of drill bits that fill the 1/2" chuck such as long masonry drill bits, metal drill bits using the drill settings to save the drill bit while drilling through metal, hole-saw arbors. But can have issues with cam-outs (where the drill slips and pops out of the screw head (very common on Phillips), this is prevented by pushing in with a downward force while drilling, on the contrary, impact drivers generally do not have this issue which is what makes them more versatile. You can also use them for mixing; attach a mixer attachment and mix a bucket of paint, etc.
Drills apply continuous torque which causes ALOT of cam-outs and stripping especially on a Philips head. High torque drill can also twist and hurt your wrists if it binds up while an impact would just create a chatter noise.
Impact wrench: High torque, generally used with auto, heavy equipment and diesel. Instead of using 1/4 hex bits (impact driver) or a 3 chuck (drills), they use square drives (usually 1/4", 3/8", 1/2") with sockets. Designed for breakaway torque of 1k+ ft pounds.
Hammer drill: Masonry, concrete, brick. Hammering action to pulverize hard materials. SDS rotary hammer.
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Edit, here:
Modern impact drivers can handle over 90% of typical job-site tasks, making the old rule that drills and impacts have strict, separate uses largely outdated. Advances in impact technology have made them lighter, faster, safer, and far less prone to cam-out or wrist-injuring kickback, since they apply torque in pulses rather than continuously. Impacts excel at driving fasteners, drilling small to medium holes, working one-handed in tight or overhead spaces, and removing rusted or stripped screws, while modern modes reduce cam-out and over-tightening. Traditional drills are still better for precision work, large holes, mixing, and certain materials, while hammer drills and impact wrenches remain specialized for masonry and high-torque automotive tasks.
Edit, here:
Modern impact drivers can handle over 90% of typical job-site tasks, making the old rule that drills and impacts have strict, separate uses largely outdated. Advances in impact technology have made them lighter, faster, safer, and far less prone to cam-out or wrist-injuring kickback, since they apply torque in pulses rather than continuously. Impacts excel at driving fasteners, drilling small to medium holes, working one-handed in tight or overhead spaces, and removing rusted or stripped screws, while modern modes reduce cam-out and over-tightening. Traditional drills are still better for precision work, large holes, mixing, and certain materials, while hammer drills and impact wrenches remain specialized for masonry and high-torque automotive tasks.
If you can't tell the difference between AI generated text and human, you got some bad news headed your way.
Also before accusing someone of AI slop maybe you should put that text into ChatGpt and ask it if it sounds AI generated. Actually put my text and your text and see for yoursself.
Thanks but no thanks, leaving out all the intricacies and engineering details with that ai slop and without fact checking. You might as well turn your brain off thinking mode and just leave on influenced mode ✌️
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