Order iphone 13 $49.99 w/new number+$60 supreme line Total $110 if have $25 off new customer popup $85 total.
Once activate 13 you can order 16e Free w/port number only requires 1 month service instead 2 months and you get $30 off multi line discount. 16e will be Free + $30 supreme line.
Total cost $140 for iphone 13+16e.
If have 2nd port number you can get another Free 16e with 1 month supreme line for $20 the 3rd/4th supreme line is $40 off.
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expireddirks7649 posted Mar 6, 2026 4:57 PM
Cricket: 128GB Apple iPhone 16e + 2-Months Supreme Unlimited Plan
$120
$599
79% off
w/ Port-In + Free Shippingat Cricket Wireless
Top Comments
After Activate Stylus the 16e Free w/port number plan only requires 1 month for $30 w/multi line discount. 3rd line Free 16e w/port number even less $20 w/multi line discount.
Total cost $85 dollars.
After get Free Trial Number create a T-Mobile ID: Use the T-Mobile website to link your trial number to a email/profile.
Locate Account Info: Your account number in the "Account Summary" section of the online portal. Generate a Port PIN: Under Settings in Profile
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I traded in 4 in person over the course of 2 in-store trade-ins so far.
Separately, I've mailed in 6 phones (2 each time at dropoff, spread out over 3 different days) so far and they've all been approved.
I have the gift cards as of yesterday.I have 6 phones left to trade in, and I suspect they'll all be fine. My success rate is 100% so far. I promise I'm not saying this to brag.
If anybody has any questions, feel free to reply to me so I get the notification (I disable all notifications except for direct replies. I think I disabled PMs too. Can't remember, but direct replies to this comment will definitely show up as notifications on my phone!)
Reason being is I know some people are probably holding onto a lot of phones. If you were as invested as I have been with your time about this entire saga, I understand how you feel.If I can help out, I'm happy to. I got a lot of insights from everyone's generous data points on here over the course of reading every single comment spread out over the 136 pages of replies so far. I'm a little nutty haha.
Anyway all of that is to say I think I feel very qualified to give advice on trade-ins in THIS ONE SPECIFIC CIRCUMSTANCE:
All the phones I got were set up as new lines + 1 month of their minimum highest tier required plan (forgot the name of it). I did not want to mess with any port in issues, so I didn't. I don't know anything about how that works. I decided to ignore porting in because it's too much of a hassle for me to understand, even if it means reducing my "net profit" overall from trade in values.
My trading process thus far has been: 1) Activate phone 2) Leave it there for 5 days 3) Delete the eSIM from the phone. 4) Erase all content and settings 5) Trade it in.
At no point during any type of trade in (dropoff nor store) was I asked to show any ID. But I always did a maximum of 2 just because.Any trade-in initiated was always under a new person, not that it mattered honestly. No point in the process did anybody ever check. But anyway, new person. New phone. New email. New address. Why, you ask? Because you can assume I brought a new family member along for a different trade in every time, to which they themselves consented to and said they wanted to do it to get the gift cards themselves, because they are the ones who bought and received the phones. In the end, they are sharing the gift cards with me out of appreciation. We pool everything together and we each get to buy whatever we want, individual value split equally amongst everyone.
Phones were a mix of 16e and 13s.
I think that's everything I can think of...Again, feel free to ask. I'll do my best to help. I know some people are still monitoring this thread looking for more info!
I traded in 4 in person over the course of 2 in-store trade-ins so far.
Separately, I've mailed in 6 phones (2 each time at dropoff, spread out over 3 different days) so far and they've all been approved.
I have the gift cards as of yesterday.I have 6 phones left to trade in, and I suspect they'll all be fine. My success rate is 100% so far. I promise I'm not saying this to brag.
If anybody has any questions, feel free to reply to me so I get the notification (I disable all notifications except for direct replies. I think I disabled PMs too. Can't remember, but direct replies to this comment will definitely show up as notifications on my phone!)
Reason being is I know some people are probably holding onto a lot of phones. If you were as invested as I have been with your time about this entire saga, I understand how you feel.If I can help out, I'm happy to. I got a lot of insights from everyone's generous data points on here over the course of reading every single comment spread out over the 136 pages of replies so far. I'm a little nutty haha.
Anyway all of that is to say I think I feel very qualified to give advice on trade-ins in THIS ONE SPECIFIC CIRCUMSTANCE:
All the phones I got were set up as new lines + 1 month of their minimum highest tier required plan (forgot the name of it). I did not want to mess with any port in issues, so I didn't. I don't know anything about how that works. I decided to ignore porting in because it's too much of a hassle for me to understand, even if it means reducing my "net profit" overall from trade in values.
My trading process thus far has been: 1) Activate phone 2) Leave it there for 5 days 3) Delete the eSIM from the phone. 4) Erase all content and settings 5) Trade it in.
At no point during any type of trade in (dropoff nor store) was I asked to show any ID. But I always did a maximum of 2 just because.Any trade-in initiated was always under a new person, not that it mattered honestly. No point in the process did anybody ever check. But anyway, new person. New phone. New email. New address. Why, you ask? Because you can assume I brought a new family member along for a different trade in every time, to which they themselves consented to and said they wanted to do it to get the gift cards themselves, because they are the ones who bought and received the phones. In the end, they are sharing the gift cards with me out of appreciation. We pool everything together and we each get to buy whatever we want, individual value split equally amongst everyone.
Phones were a mix of 16e and 13s.
I think that's everything I can think of...Again, feel free to ask. I'll do my best to help. I know some people are still monitoring this thread looking for more info!
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Yeah. I read that too so that's what I did for all the phones. Charged them / discharged them over the course of a week so it would all have at least 2 battery cycles on them.
The total price for not porting in was:
For 16e, $99 phone with the $60 plan (required 1 month of their Supreme Unlimited)
For 13, it was $50 for phone plus $20 for the supreme unlimited plan because when you bundle new lines, you get a stacking discount that looks somewhat like this:
16e - $99 + $60
16e - $99 + $30
13 - $49 + $20
13 - $49 + $20
So added all together after taxes and whatever else, those 4 ended up being around $460.
So the way I calculated was not priced per individual phone, but rather the cost total split by 4 devices.
So in this case, $115 per phone.And trade in values are $310 for 16e and $195 for 13.
So trade in total value is $1010.
So profit nets out to $1010 - $460 = $550. Which amounts to $550 / 4 = $137.50 profit per phone.
This was more work and obviously not getting as much back as I couldn't the phone were essentially free through port-ins, but to me felt more safe because I was starting to wonder seeing all the DPs about going through all the effort of port-ins from places like Helium, etc, being possibly the reason devices might get blocked from being traded in.
I have no way to back up the claim though, so I took every single precaution I could given everything I learned.I'm past breakeven now, so even if I can't trade the remaining devices for whatever reason, I decided I'd be ok with it since I've already net positive.If anything, now I have a lot of data about what to do in the future should another deal come along!
i waited week after activating to send iphone 13 in mail they still denied it. Some IMEI are flagged some are not.
But both 16e in the store came up as unauthorized modification. I even tried to claim warranty on them but it didn't work. They repeated the diagnostic in the store, but no luck.
There are other people who have straight up gone to Apple store immediately after buying from cricket - and have had full trade in.
I really do believe it's probably some IMEI's that have been flagged. Nothing that the user does will affect the trade in. The reps in the store don't care whether your phone is factory reset etc. They use a software that does all the checks.
It's all driven by luck. If the IMEI is flagged, nothing that the user does, would be able to fix it.
But both 16e in the store came up as unauthorized modification. I even tried to claim warranty on them but it didn't work. They repeated the diagnostic in the store, but no luck.
There are other people who have straight up gone to Apple store immediately after buying from cricket - and have had full trade in.
I really do believe it's probably some IMEI's that have been flagged. Nothing that the user does will affect the trade in. The reps in the store don't care whether your phone is factory reset etc. They use a software that does all the checks.
It's all driven by luck. If the IMEI is flagged, nothing that the user does, would be able to fix it.
Some wait, some transfer out esims, some don't. Some trade in seemingly right away, direct from Cricket. Not sure there is any rhyme or reason to it.
The only thing I'd be hesitant with is going into a store with like 6+ phones at once, or anything weird, where it looks a little fishy. I can see an employee or manager denying a trade on that basis. But otherwise I'm not sure of any exact rules that determine success.
A power charge isn't a bad idea though, if for nothing else, to make sure the phone doesn't conk out during the trade in process. And if one can transfer the esim, might as well, as it may come in handy later.
Traded in my last 13 yesterday, $195, no issues at all. Super quick, actually faster than my earlier trade-ins. Those were all port ins + last one didn't transfer out the esim (couldn't manage it).
Best Buy and Gamestop are other options. Not as much, but likely still decent.
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Yes it works still.
I traded in 4 in person over the course of 2 in-store trade-ins so far.
Separately, I've mailed in 6 phones (2 each time at dropoff, spread out over 3 different days) so far and they've all been approved.
I have the gift cards as of yesterday.I have 6 phones left to trade in, and I suspect they'll all be fine. My success rate is 100% so far. I promise I'm not saying this to brag.
If anybody has any questions, feel free to reply to me so I get the notification (I disable all notifications except for direct replies. I think I disabled PMs too. Can't remember, but direct replies to this comment will definitely show up as notifications on my phone!)
Reason being is I know some people are probably holding onto a lot of phones. If you were as invested as I have been with your time about this entire saga, I understand how you feel.If I can help out, I'm happy to. I got a lot of insights from everyone's generous data points on here over the course of reading every single comment spread out over the 136 pages of replies so far. I'm a little nutty haha.
Anyway all of that is to say I think I feel very qualified to give advice on trade-ins in THIS ONE SPECIFIC CIRCUMSTANCE:
All the phones I got were set up as new lines + 1 month of their minimum highest tier required plan (forgot the name of it). I did not want to mess with any port in issues, so I didn't. I don't know anything about how that works. I decided to ignore porting in because it's too much of a hassle for me to understand, even if it means reducing my "net profit" overall from trade in values.
My trading process thus far has been: 1) Activate phone 2) Leave it there for 5 days 3) Delete the eSIM from the phone. 4) Erase all content and settings 5) Trade it in.
At no point during any type of trade in (dropoff nor store) was I asked to show any ID. But I always did a maximum of 2 just because.Any trade-in initiated was always under a new person, not that it mattered honestly. No point in the process did anybody ever check. But anyway, new person. New phone. New email. New address. Why, you ask? Because you can assume I brought a new family member along for a different trade in every time, to which they themselves consented to and said they wanted to do it to get the gift cards themselves, because they are the ones who bought and received the phones. In the end, they are sharing the gift cards with me out of appreciation. We pool everything together and we each get to buy whatever we want, individual value split equally amongst everyone.
Phones were a mix of 16e and 13s.
I think that's everything I can think of...Again, feel free to ask. I'll do my best to help. I know some people are still monitoring this thread looking for more info!
20+ phones, all cricket. All ported in from legitimate carriers (i.e. NOT Helium, Tello, Mobile X, or free T-Mobile trial). Half online, half in store.
All phones: activated, called, texted, used data by downloading a bunch of apps, transferred eSIMs to other iPhones via iPhone to iPhone transfer, charged to 100%, traded in to apple same day for in store and 1 week for online. I started buying before this thread even started, right around the iPhone 13 cricket thread started so I avoided all of the online restrictions.
All phones were successfully traded with no issues. I see that you put in a lot of precautions. I hope my experience will help you eliminate some variables.
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