Amazon has
9-Piece Amazon Basics 18″ x 32″ Car Sound Deadening Mat for
$30.44.
Shipping is free with Prime or orders $35+.
Thanks to Deal Hunter
tDames for finding this deal.
About this Item:
- Car sound deadener (9-piece) for creating a quieter and more comfortable in-car experience
- Sound-proofing material (made of butyl rubber compound based substrate) helps reduce annoying vibrations and noises from the vehicle and road
- Strong self-adhesive backing for secure placement; reflective aluminum foil on the front for better thermal insulation
- Pliable material; easy to cut and install in a vehicle interior, cabin floor, or trunk; installation kit includes instructions
- Each 0.1-inch-thick piece measures 18 by 32 inches (LxW); 36-square-foot total coverage area
Leave a Comment
Top Comments
Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
11 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Masejoer
Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
It seems the new vehicle is as advertised; what do you suppose the added material actually is? Surely they didn't add many hundreds of pounds? I'd like to get me some of that on my pilot that's a few years older and pretty noisy.
I used the leftover on my kitchen sink. Not sure I would fork over the money specifically for that purpose, but placing an item in the sink now results in a satisfying thud instead of an annoying high pitch clank.
I used the leftover on my kitchen sink. Not sure I would fork over the money specifically for that purpose, but placing an item in the sink now results in a satisfying thud instead of an annoying high pitch clank.
Leave a Comment