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Model: Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadener, 18″ x 32″ (9-Piece)
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I find it so strange that Amazon resells this stuff with their Basic branding on it.
Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
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I find it so strange that Amazon resells this stuff with their Basic branding on it.
Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
I find it so strange that Amazon resells this stuff with their Basic branding on it.
Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
this guy is spot on lol.. these types of products are great to maybe secure behind your license plate to reduce rattle or on a very specific interior door panel areas where hard material on hard material friction occurs. this will not make your interior audio sound quality noticeably better inside of your car by applying one layer of this sheeting between your door panels.
I've used it in multiple vehicles and on my tractor, boat. It works. Oldest install is the boat which was in Salt water 3 years. It's now 6 years old. No issues
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I find it so strange that Amazon resells this stuff with their Basic branding on it.
Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
This is a fabulous post, thanks. I do have a question though- For example, "The 2026 Honda Pilot features a quieter cabin, achieved through enhanced sound-deadening materials in the doors, dashboard, and hood, along with standard acoustic glass. This refresh addresses previous noise concerns, making it the quietest Pilot model to date"
It seems the new vehicle is as advertised; what do you suppose the added material actually is? Surely they didn't add many hundreds of pounds? I'd like to get me some of that on my pilot that's a few years older and pretty noisy.
I didn't use this brand, but lining the inside of the outer door skins of my cheap "plastic fantastic interior" truck made a noticeable difference in road noise. The big difference in sound quality came from tracking down every little thing that was rattling or resonating and individually addressing them until there were none left. The soft sticky butyl rubber is useful for that and sealing light bleed, but makes an absolute mess.
I used the leftover on my kitchen sink. Not sure I would fork over the money specifically for that purpose, but placing an item in the sink now results in a satisfying thud instead of an annoying high pitch clank.
I didn't use this brand, but lining the inside of the outer door skins of my cheap "plastic fantastic interior" truck made a noticeable difference in road noise. The big difference in sound quality came from tracking down every little thing that was rattling or resonating and individually addressing them until there were none left. The soft sticky butyl rubber is useful for that and sealing light bleed, but makes an absolute mess.
I used the leftover on my kitchen sink. Not sure I would fork over the money specifically for that purpose, but placing an item in the sink now results in a satisfying thud instead of an annoying high pitch clank.
Interesting that you mention the sink... I was installing two identical thick gauge stainless kitchen sinks and decided to do a side-by-side comparison. I completely lined the back side if one sink with the name brand mat that I had left over from doing a vehicle and the noise reduction was very noticeable when placing things in the sink. It wasn't a life-changer, but it did make the sinks sound more solid and far less 'clangy'. I ended up needing to buy some to do the other sink to please the bride. You know the moral: "Happy wife..."
Do remember that adding 500 lb of material does increase wear and tear on suspensions and tires. It will also decrease MPG but it does help with driver fatigue and making the car feel nicer. Looking at the prices at the pump right now and it hurts.
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Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Masejoer
Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
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Note that car sound deadening really has three steps. This one is to remove resonance and decrease rattles, by adding a small amount of mass to the panels. More mass the better. Mass-loaded vinyl sheeting (MLV) is cheaper per pound, so people typically use that as a more effective sound barrier, and it's sold by weight of pound per square foot. To prevent vibration/energy from moving from between the body panel to the MLV, causing the MLV to vibrate, a foam (typically closed cell so that moisture doesn't get trapped in the foam and breed bacteria/mold) is used between the outer panel and MLV as a "decoupling" layer.
In short though, mass is what absorbs acoustic energy. The more mass you have, the less acoustic energy you'll hear through that panel of the vehicle. Truly fffective sound dampening will add some 500lb of material to the vehicle. 100lb on the floors and lower walls can help take the energy out of the higher frequencies, but the noise SPL levels won't change much in the frequencies where road noise is typically heard. I did this for the last time on an aluminum chassis car, and was let down with only 100lb of material, using a measurement mic to capture the before/after on the same day, ambient temperature and tire pressure, road/surface. It dropped 1KHz and up, but the SPL level was about the same - just at a lower frequency.
20 years ago I added only a ton of 60mil butyl mat to the outer and inner door skins of a car though - 2 layers on outer, 2.5 layers on the inner, full coverage. I put closed cell foam around the rear of the door speakers. The doors closed with a good thud, and the 7-inch mid-range drivers I had in the doors were greatly improved, but it would have been better to better to build some speaker pods instead. That butyl mat was impossible to remove, and made fastener removal much harder when I was in there later to service (R&R) the window tracks. The road noise itself wasn't noticeably different with a layer of that on the doors, and the floor, and firewall up about a foot. That car did have thick carpet and padding though, and plenty of factory pieces slapped onto the middle of large panels to cut down on resonance already.
In summary though, don't expect a noticeable change without covering the entire vehicle with multiple layers of this stuff. At most, I'd expect it to help rattles - not plastic on plastic vibration/creaks, but actual rattles. An actual sound deadener job will be well over $1k in materials, and need care around every connection point/fastener and bend to make sure that interior panels go back on properly.
It seems the new vehicle is as advertised; what do you suppose the added material actually is? Surely they didn't add many hundreds of pounds? I'd like to get me some of that on my pilot that's a few years older and pretty noisy.
I used the leftover on my kitchen sink. Not sure I would fork over the money specifically for that purpose, but placing an item in the sink now results in a satisfying thud instead of an annoying high pitch clank.
I used the leftover on my kitchen sink. Not sure I would fork over the money specifically for that purpose, but placing an item in the sink now results in a satisfying thud instead of an annoying high pitch clank.
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