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Deluxe Aquarium Kit
Aqueon Deluxe Kits offers a complete all-in-one habitat that makes it easy for beginners and hobbyists alike. Features complete Aqueon Lighting and Filtration systems.
Kit Includes
Glass Aquarium with Black Trim
QuietFlowâ„¢ Power Filter
Filter Cartridge
Deluxe Fluorescent Hood
Fluorescent Bulb
Submersible Heater
Aquarium Set-up and Care Guide
Water Conditioner
Digital Thermometer
Premium Fish Food
Fish Net
All components needed for a healthy aquatic environment.
*Size 10, Heater Not Included
this is the best thing you can buy for a new tank, freshwater or saltwater
http://www.amazon.com/API-SALTWAT...i+tes
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Live plants help a little with jump starting just like adding gravel from an established tank but you still have to wait for the process to complete before adding fish. Live plants are mainly useful for utilizing the final product of the nitrogen cycle- nitrate
Trim the plants too heavily, don't have enough CO2 or nutrients in the water, and the plants will not be able to help enough to prevent harm.
But it is possible and some people never cycle their tanks by having a large amount of plants and ample equipment/education to make it work.
For those that don't want to take the chance here's an article I wrote a couple years ago to help those that want to fishless cycle:
http://www.aquariumadv
As for the deal, it's meh to me. As mentioned the quality of the components are a bit suspect (low quality heaters are DANGEROUS), and the normal price is ludicrous. You'd be better off waiting until they have the good prices on bare tanks (I think they occasionally do the $1 for a gallon at PetSmart), and purchase the rest from reputable vendors. 29gallons is also the starting point to where I recommend canister filters over powerheads. You can definitely still do a powerhead (or 2), but canister filters start to come into there own at 29+). If you like the natural look pool filter sand (PFS) available at pool supply or Lowe's/HD is cheap and fantastic as long as you are willing to spend some time washing it. My home tank uses PFS and it looks great, the fish/snails love to dig through it, and it holds live plants nicely compared to gravel. My tank at work is bare-bottom to aid in easy cleanup since I'm not there on the weekends and can't take hours out of my work day to tend to it.
So basically it's an OK price for an almost complete setup but you could do better for about the same price if you are willing to piecemeal it together. One other thing is to check Craig's list. People are constantly getting rid of tanks/equipment for free or very cheap. You could score a whole setup for half this price.
HTH
At the very least, get it home, get it set up, and get the temperature stable. Could it be done? Of course, but if you're new, you're not going to know the rules enough to know how to break them
Get a proper stand for it. This is more important that you think. I see a lot of stress cracks and seam leaks because of stands that do not support the tank evenly. With water, this thing will be between 200-300lbs. Nothing is worse than a tank all over the ground.
I saw someone mention that you should not use this for saltwater unless you already have a successful saltwater. I agree 100%. This is not an easy starter tank size for saltwater. Larger is easier and more stable! Plus all of the additional things you'd need to buy would cost far more than this combo pack... not even getting into fish, live rock, lighting for coral (if desired) and coral, etc. Again, it can be done, absolutely, but you're far more likely to fail and get turned off by it. Go look at how many aquariums are on CL right now.
I would do community fish in this one, period. Easy, pretty, lots of movement on all levels, etc. Goldfish and cichlids are probably too big anyway, but even if you wanted to, you'd have a boring tank with just a few fat fish that don't do much.
Biggest advice I can give you to go as big as you can. PH fluctuations are less with a greater volume of water, and your margin or error with water changes is a lot better than a 10G. 30 gallon isnt bad, but I would get something like African cichlids and maybe put 5-8 in there depending on fish size and hiding space. Thats a decent setup to not lose fish. You regular community fish arent hardy, and will die A LOT. There is too little room for mistakes with community fish IMO (like if you have to go on vacation etc).
There's TONS of information and lots of people willing to help out. Plus lots and lots of pictures for ideas.
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testing the water regularly and aquarium salt (yes even for fresh water you need a bit)
2. It shouldn't stink as long as you clean it regularly and replace the filter pads as suggested with the instructions.
3. Beyond feeding them, you would need to do partial water changes. This involves purchasing something called a gravel vacuum that siphons water from the tank and into a bucket. You do this to remove detritus from the bottom of the tank. The frequency of cleanings depends on the amount of fish and how often you feed them. You would also want an algae pad to remove algae from the glass and some test kits to check your water parameters to ensure its safe for your fish.
Uh oh, here comes the bad/dangerous information.
1. You do need to use a dechlorinator (I recommend Prime because it's cheap and lasts forever). Many municipalities now use chloramine because it is more stable in the water (ie it doesn't evaporate). You can let this sit out all you want and it will still do harm to your fish. To make matters worse when it reacts with something the -amine is essentially ammonia which will further hurt your fish.
2. You do not need aquarium salt in a freshwater fish tank. There are fish that prefer salt (mollies, SOME puffers, etc.) but these are mild or moderate brackish fish. Putting salt into a guppy tank is NOT needed, and potentially harmful.
3. You should never replace filter pads unless they fall completely apart. The biological filter is what keeps your fish safe and that doesn't "run out" after a month or two. The filter companies only get paid if you continue to buy their inserts. Ignore that and RINSE the filters in USED TANK WATER to remove the gunk that inhibits the water flow, and then reinstall. Viola, a new filter. I've replaced a filter pad ONCE in 7 years, because it literally melted in my hand after cleaning it so many times.
4. Water changes are mandatory (this is just to reiterate, not in argument to the quoted comments). 10-50% once a week, depending on how stocked/fed/etc. When you do a water change you need to use the SAME TEMPERATURE water as in your tank. You also ideally need to add in dechlorinator PRIOR to adding the water to the tank (this is only applicable for smaller tanks where you fill with buckets). If you cannot do this or you have a huge tank that fills from a water line you need to dose the tank with enough dechlorinator for the TOTAL VOLUME OF THE TANK (very important). I do 50% changes once a week. Doesn't take much longer than a 25% water change and is a nice way to be sure the water parameters are not getting too out of whack. Topping up (only water evaporates, all the crud and toxins are still in the water) IS NOT ACCEPTABLE!
HTH
Includes digital thermometer, 5" fish net, filter cartridge, 100-watt submersible heater and more.
If you ask me is not such of a great deal if you don't have a stand included...
2. You do not need aquarium salt in a freshwater fish tank. There are fish that prefer salt (mollies, SOME puffers, etc.) but these are mild or moderate brackish fish. Putting salt into a guppy tank is NOT needed, and potentially harmful.
3. You should never replace filter pads unless they fall completely apart. The biological filter is what keeps your fish safe and that doesn't "run out" after a month or two. The filter companies only get paid if you continue to buy their inserts. Ignore that and RINSE the filters in USED TANK WATER to remove the gunk that inhibits the water flow, and then reinstall. Viola, a new filter. I've replaced a filter pad ONCE in 7 years, because it literally melted in my hand after cleaning it so many times.
4. Water changes are mandatory (this is just to reiterate, not in argument to the quoted comments). 10-50% once a week, depending on how stocked/fed/etc. I do 50% changes once a week. Doesn't take much longer than a 25% water change and is a nice way to be sure the water parameters are not getting too out of whack. Topping up (only water evaporates, all the crud and toxins are still in the water) IS NOT ACCEPTABLE!
2. I would say this depends on your water source. RO or DI would almost certainly see benefit (if not necessary) in adding some salt and minerals added back. Tap? Depends on your area! If you have outrageously hard water, maybe none is needed. They can test for that for free. A few tablespoons of aquarium salt doesn't get it anywhere near a brackish environment. The natural environment of a guppy does have plenty of dissolved minerals in it. It's like $2 for a box of salt. Just add some salt.
3. Well, there are different types of filtration. Mechanical filters, correct, as long as they are in good shape, keep using them. But depending on how you clean them, you might be killing anything biological on it. Biological, which most filters don't target with a specific media, almost never has to be changed and should almost never be "cleaned". Chemical (in this case, carbon) should absolutely be replaced frequently
Yes, the biological part is what keeps the fish healthy, but the chemical and mechanical parts keep it attractive for you. You don't "need" carbon but it can help with clarity, smell, oil sheen on top, etc. Higher end filters will allow you to replace various forms of filtration separately, but most of the cheap ones just stash carbon in a filter pouch, which you replace all at once.
4. Water changes... 50% a week? JEEZ. I'd be a little more careful about your controlled environment. Any benefit you get by such frequent, large water changes is probably countered by the stress you put it through so regularly. Water changes remove nitrate, so the frequency needed depends on the stocking levels, feeding schedule, etc. If you're replacing 50% weekly because you need to, it's outrageously overstocked. And on the necessity of water changes- I have a saltwater tank set it so specifically that it hasn't needed a water change in several years.
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