Last Edited by unikorn
November 15, 2020
at
01:07 AM
Solar is not for everyone. It is a big buying decision and should be carefully planned out, similar to buying a house or a car. Do your homework and ensure that it makes sense on paper for your specific needs. The best way to compare solar quotes is before incentives and look at the price per watt. Please note Tesla will price match but you will not find a lower price.
Current pricing before incentives (federal is 26% and local varies)
4.08 KW - Small: $8,200
8.16 KW - Medium: $16,400
12.24 KW - Large: $24,600
16.32 KW - X-Large: $32,800
The PVWatts Calculatorhttps://pvwatts.nrel.gov/ is a great unbiased tool provided by the US Dept of Energy to provide a good estimate of your solar production at your exact location.
Can someone please let me know how net metering works if I produce more during off peak and consume more during peak hours. Some above asked the same question but I did not see any response.
>>If I have excess production in the daytime when charges are $0.30/KW, I'll get back say $0.03 from PGE but at night when it's $0.40/KW, and I am pulling from the grid, I'll be charged $0.40 -- so, my cost will be $0.37. I was expecting the 1KW to cancel each other out and not have to pay anything.
Your credit is in the form of dollars (money/currency), not kW (energy). The amount of credit you receive is dependent on the rate at the time that you put energy back in the grid while the amount of credit you spend (or money if you exceed you credit) is dependent on the rate at the time you use it. Only way to have no net spending is if your credit from production can cover all the cost of use. I believe you have to spec your system to be at 120% of your use (as an average estimate) to be able to do that. Also note that you have a monthly hook up charge (~$10 for me I think) even if you don't use any energy from the grid.
Can someone please let me know how net metering works if I produce more during off peak and consume more during peak hours. Some above asked the same question but I did not see any response.
>>If I have excess production in the daytime when charges are $0.30/KW, I'll get back say $0.03 from PGE but at night when it's $0.40/KW, and I am pulling from the grid, I'll be charged $0.40 -- so, my cost will be $0.37. I was expecting the 1KW to cancel each other out and not have to pay anything.
Seems like a lot of people are confused with how net metering works, but it is a somewhat complicated issue. It really boils down to your state rules, but in general, this is what it looks like:
1) you will be charged some minimum connection charge (meter fee, fee for being connected to the grid, etc) which is ~10 dollars a month
2) you get credit for any excess generation that you have At the time that the excess generation was made. So if you produce excess energy during peak hours, you typically get the retail rate for the excess kWh. If you produce during off peak hours, you get a credit at the off peak rate.
Depending on your state's rules, you either get a credit for the exact same amount you would have been charged (best case, in California this is NEM1), or you get a credit of the rate minus the delivery charge (10% less than the best case scenario, in California this is NEM2), or you get credit for the wholesale generation rate (worst case scenario, in this case getting batteries may be the only viable method to make solar sensible, this would be in a state which is very hostile to solar)
3) at the end of the year, you will get charged for any electricity that you pulled from the grid for the whole year. Deducted from this amount will be all the credits from #2.
4) if #3 - #2 is a positive number, you will pay that amount and #1 at your annual true up.
If #3 - #2 is a negative number, then that negative number will negate #1, if it is STILL negative, then that net negative will NOT be given to you as a credit. The utility will calculate your excess annual generation and then pay you the wholesale rate for any kWh (which is a measly 3 cents per kWh)
Bottom line, your goal is to produce enough solar so that annually, you have no net usage and you pay the grid connection charges, or if you have a surplus, just enough surplus to offset the grid connection charges, but not more than that.
Seems like a lot of people are confused with how net metering works, but it is a somewhat complicated issue. It really boils down to your state rules, but in general, this is what it looks like:
1) you will be charged some minimum connection charge (meter fee, fee for being connected to the grid, etc) which is ~10 dollars a month
2) you get credit for any excess generation that you have At the time that the excess generation was made. So if you produce excess energy during peak hours, you typically get the retail rate for the excess kWh. If you produce during off peak hours, you get a credit at the off peak rate.
Depending on your state's rules, you either get a credit for the exact same amount you would have been charged (best case, in California this is NEM1), or you get a credit of the energy generation charge minus the delivery charge (10% less than the best case scenario, in California this is NEM2), or you get credit for the wholesale generation rate (worst case scenario, in this case getting batteries may be the only viable method to make solar sensible, this would be in a state which is very hostile to solar)
3) at the end of the year, you will get charged for any electricity that you pulled from the grid for the whole year. Deducted from this amount will be all the credits from #2.
4) if #3 - #2 is a positive number, you will pay that amount and #1 at your annual true up.
If #3 - #2 is a negative number, then that negative number will negate #1, if it is STILL negative, then that net negative will NOT be given to you as a credit. The utility will calculate your excess annual generation and then pay you the wholesale rate for any kWh (which is a measly 3 cents per kWh)
Bottom line, your goal is to produce enough solar so that annually, you have no net usage and you pay the grid connection charges, or if you have a surplus, just enough surplus to offset the grid connection charges, but not more than that.
Thanks you for a very good explanation. In California, how do we know if it will be NEM1 or NEM2? I assume it is pre decided based on location? I am in SF Bay Area so if you know for this area, please let me know.
Thanks you for a very good explanation. In California, how do we know if it will be NEM1 or NEM2? I assume it is pre decided based on location? I am in SF Bay Area so if you know for this area, please let me know.
NEM1 ended in 2016 or so, everyone since then has been enrolled in NEM2. When will NEM2 end and new rules for NEM3 occur? Hard to say, but when it does it will likely not be as beneficial
One big change with NEM2 is that you have to get TOU, but it seems like even if you don't get solar, most utilities are probably going to force everyone onto TOU
Generally, if you get solar, you lock yourself into those set of rules for 20 years. That way you can make your calculations and not worry that the rules will change on you right after you install solar
Fast timeliness. Mine:
Signed up August 17th
Signed project sept 8th
Payment sept 13th
Tesla inspection, not the city cause its not installed yet, scheduled December 5th, they said thats the earliest opening.
Fast timeliness. Mine:
Signed up August 17th
Signed project sept 8th
Payment sept 13th
Tesla inspection, not the city cause its not installed yet, scheduled December 5th, they said thats the earliest opening.
Bay area
Will be half a year by the time they install....
Besides the $100 deposit, there is no payment to be made until it is completely installed. What payment did you need to make on Sept 13th?
Tesla finally submitted the paperwork to my utility almost 7 weeks after install and 6 weeks after final inspection and payment.
But, I am checking the stats they submitted and they have the system listed at 3.779 kW.
Can someone check the stats listed below and respond as to whether this is normal?
Hmm...it looks like they are providing the subtotal with the older panels. Tesla updated to newer panels around the start of summer I believe. The old panels used to be 315W per panel with the new ones being 340W. 315Wx12 panels = 3800W or 3.8kW. 340Wx12 panels = 4080W or 4.1kW .
Hmm...it looks like they are providing the subtotal with the older panels. Tesla updated to newer panels around the start of summer I believe. The old panels used to be 315W per panel with the new ones being 340W. 315Wx12 panels = 3800W or 3.8kW. 340Wx12 panels = 4080W or 4.1kW .
I think it is the inverter which can do max 3.8 KW. PG&E does not care what panels do. They care about what is the max power they will see on the line. My paper work also show the same number to PG&E.
I think it is the inverter which can do max 3.8 KW. PG&E does not care what panels do. They care about what is the max power they will see on the line. My paper work also show the same number to PG&E.
Thanks. You scared me enough that I turned off the inverter. Not sure why the Tesla person responsible for the inspection left it on. If anyone else had this, please let me know.
Just a heads up, ended up finding more information on this. If you have a digital meter, it has a built in security that will count any net energy (either export or import) for that hour as consumption. So if you're using exactly what your panels are making, then you would show a 0 kWh. However if you were to use 2 kWh but then make 8kWh, then you would be charged 6kWh. Only the old analog meters that can spin backwards (on the reading) would not have this built in security. The analogs that can't spin backwards will also count exports to grid as usage.
Ordered Aug 1st.
Tesla Inspection Aug 15th
City Approval Sept. 18th
Installation Oct 1st
City revised Approval (they had to re-submit the revised layout) Oct 30th
City Inspection Nov 4
PTO Nov 17th
Also, can someone help me on how to setup SolarEdge monitoring.
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Yes and only by phone. Online payment only allows bank.
>>If I have excess production in the daytime when charges are $0.30/KW, I'll get back say $0.03 from PGE but at night when it's $0.40/KW, and I am pulling from the grid, I'll be charged $0.40 -- so, my cost will be $0.37. I was expecting the 1KW to cancel each other out and not have to pay anything.
Your credit is in the form of dollars (money/currency), not kW (energy). The amount of credit you receive is dependent on the rate at the time that you put energy back in the grid while the amount of credit you spend (or money if you exceed you credit) is dependent on the rate at the time you use it. Only way to have no net spending is if your credit from production can cover all the cost of use. I believe you have to spec your system to be at 120% of your use (as an average estimate) to be able to do that. Also note that you have a monthly hook up charge (~$10 for me I think) even if you don't use any energy from the grid.
>>If I have excess production in the daytime when charges are $0.30/KW, I'll get back say $0.03 from PGE but at night when it's $0.40/KW, and I am pulling from the grid, I'll be charged $0.40 -- so, my cost will be $0.37. I was expecting the 1KW to cancel each other out and not have to pay anything.
Check out Enphase webinar
https://enphase.com/en-us/support...homeo
1) you will be charged some minimum connection charge (meter fee, fee for being connected to the grid, etc) which is ~10 dollars a month
2) you get credit for any excess generation that you have At the time that the excess generation was made. So if you produce excess energy during peak hours, you typically get the retail rate for the excess kWh. If you produce during off peak hours, you get a credit at the off peak rate.
Depending on your state's rules, you either get a credit for the exact same amount you would have been charged (best case, in California this is NEM1), or you get a credit of the rate minus the delivery charge (10% less than the best case scenario, in California this is NEM2), or you get credit for the wholesale generation rate (worst case scenario, in this case getting batteries may be the only viable method to make solar sensible, this would be in a state which is very hostile to solar)
3) at the end of the year, you will get charged for any electricity that you pulled from the grid for the whole year. Deducted from this amount will be all the credits from #2.
4) if #3 - #2 is a positive number, you will pay that amount and #1 at your annual true up.
If #3 - #2 is a negative number, then that negative number will negate #1, if it is STILL negative, then that net negative will NOT be given to you as a credit. The utility will calculate your excess annual generation and then pay you the wholesale rate for any kWh (which is a measly 3 cents per kWh)
Bottom line, your goal is to produce enough solar so that annually, you have no net usage and you pay the grid connection charges, or if you have a surplus, just enough surplus to offset the grid connection charges, but not more than that.
1) you will be charged some minimum connection charge (meter fee, fee for being connected to the grid, etc) which is ~10 dollars a month
2) you get credit for any excess generation that you have At the time that the excess generation was made. So if you produce excess energy during peak hours, you typically get the retail rate for the excess kWh. If you produce during off peak hours, you get a credit at the off peak rate.
Depending on your state's rules, you either get a credit for the exact same amount you would have been charged (best case, in California this is NEM1), or you get a credit of the energy generation charge minus the delivery charge (10% less than the best case scenario, in California this is NEM2), or you get credit for the wholesale generation rate (worst case scenario, in this case getting batteries may be the only viable method to make solar sensible, this would be in a state which is very hostile to solar)
3) at the end of the year, you will get charged for any electricity that you pulled from the grid for the whole year. Deducted from this amount will be all the credits from #2.
4) if #3 - #2 is a positive number, you will pay that amount and #1 at your annual true up.
If #3 - #2 is a negative number, then that negative number will negate #1, if it is STILL negative, then that net negative will NOT be given to you as a credit. The utility will calculate your excess annual generation and then pay you the wholesale rate for any kWh (which is a measly 3 cents per kWh)
Bottom line, your goal is to produce enough solar so that annually, you have no net usage and you pay the grid connection charges, or if you have a surplus, just enough surplus to offset the grid connection charges, but not more than that.
One big change with NEM2 is that you have to get TOU, but it seems like even if you don't get solar, most utilities are probably going to force everyone onto TOU
Generally, if you get solar, you lock yourself into those set of rules for 20 years. That way you can make your calculations and not worry that the rules will change on you right after you install solar
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Signed up August 17th
Signed project sept 8th
Payment sept 13th
Tesla inspection, not the city cause its not installed yet, scheduled December 5th, they said thats the earliest opening.
Bay area
Will be half a year by the time they install....
Signed up August 17th
Signed project sept 8th
Payment sept 13th
Tesla inspection, not the city cause its not installed yet, scheduled December 5th, they said thats the earliest opening.
Bay area
Will be half a year by the time they install....
But, I am checking the stats they submitted and they have the system listed at 3.779 kW.
Can someone check the stats listed below and respond as to whether this is normal?
Inverter #1.1
Inverter Manufacturer:SolarEdge Technologies Ltd.
Inverter Model Number:SE3800H-US [240V][SI1-JUN20]
Inverter Quantity:1
Inverter Nameplate Rating kW:3.747
Inverter Efficiency Rating %:99.0
Inverter Output Voltage:240
Inverter Phase:1
PV #1.1
PV Manufacturer:Hanwha Q CELLS
PV Model number:Q.PEAK DUO BLK-G6+ 340
PV Quantity:12
PV PTC Rating:0.3181
Subtotal PV PTC Rating kW:3.779
Total PV PTC Rating kW:3.779
Single Line Diagram
Submit basic/custom SLD:Basic
Panel Voltage:240 Volts
Main Breaker:200 Amps
PV Breaker Size:20 Amps
But, I am checking the stats they submitted and they have the system listed at 3.779 kW.
Can someone check the stats listed below and respond as to whether this is normal?
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Ordered Aug 1st.
Tesla Inspection Aug 15th
City Approval Sept. 18th
Installation Oct 1st
City revised Approval (they had to re-submit the revised layout) Oct 30th
City Inspection Nov 4
PTO Nov 17th
Also, can someone help me on how to setup SolarEdge monitoring.