I mean if I want to loosen up a rusted quarter inch bolt. Is this gonna be more powerful than my impact driver is what I'm getting at?
Brushed impact driver is like 130 ft lbs. Brushless closer to 160 ft lbs. Of course they put them in in/lbs in the product description for marketing purposes.
But what's the advantage of this over a brushless or brushed impact driver?
I have the 1/2 inch impact wrench but it's bulky. I'm trying to justify buying this but if it does the same thing as my driver why buy it?
I'm not trying to be crass. Just looking for more knowledge from other owners.
Thank in advance
I mean if I want to loosen up a rusted quarter inch bolt. Is this gonna be more powerful than my impact driver is what I'm getting at?
Brushed impact driver is like 130 ft lbs. Brushless closer to 160 ft lbs. Of course they put them in in/lbs in the product description for marketing purposes.
But what's the advantage of this over a brushless or brushed impact driver?
I have the 1/2 inch impact wrench but it's bulky. I'm trying to justify buying this but if it does the same thing as my driver why buy it?
I'm not trying to be crass. Just looking for more knowledge from other owners.
Thank in advance
I'm curious as well. The P238 is brushless and provides something like 166 ft-lbs of torque. It's not made for the same purpose but I have impact bits so I can use it with sockets.
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08-08-2020 at 08:24 AM.
Quote
from hosser
:
I mean if I want to loosen up a rusted quarter inch bolt. Is this gonna be more powerful than my impact driver is what I'm getting at?
Brushed impact driver is like 130 ft lbs. Brushless closer to 160 ft lbs. Of course they put them in in/lbs in the product description for marketing purposes.
But what's the advantage of this over a brushless or brushed impact driver?
I have the 1/2 inch impact wrench but it's bulky. I'm trying to justify buying this but if it does the same thing as my driver why buy it?
I'm not trying to be crass. Just looking for more knowledge from other owners.
Thank in advance
Drivers are meant to put screws in things. They have a 1/4" collet. It won't really do well with a 3/8" socket and adapters. Can it work in a pinch? Usually. Is it the right tool for the job? Only you already have a driver and you very rarely have the need. The most expensive tool you own is the one you never use.
Wrenches are meant to put fasteners on and take them off. They have a square drive to accept sockets directly. So a stronger connection and less energy lost on adapters flexing.
Ryobi's 1/2" impact is actually pretty small and lightweight in comparison to the market. I've been on the fence with this unit just because I don't often run into tight spots where the 1/2" doesn't fit. A $10 breaker bar takes care of those problem fasteners. Though this would be more convenient if I did more engine bay work. But once I buy a set of 3/8" impact sockets I really have to question what it would take to make my money back on the investment.
Thank you for the replies. On the farm I use what I have available. But I can Def see this being a handy tool for an auto mechanic. Rusty bolts on some farm machinery not so much. I'm debating on just getting the 1/2 impact wrench from Milwaukee to be mobile without a compressor. I've used one before and snapped a half inch bolt. I was impressed with the torque.
Thank you for the replies. On the farm I use what I have available. But I can Def see this being a handy tool for an auto mechanic. Rusty bolts on some farm machinery not so much. I'm debating on just getting the 1/2 impact wrench from Milwaukee to be mobile without a compressor. I've used one before and snapped a half inch bolt. I was impressed with the torque.
Go with m12 stubby for medium work (almost everything). If need rusted heavy go with m18 high torque.
I have the 1/2 version of this and coming from using air tools this thing is weak. I ended up buying a Makita high torque wrench instead of this Ryobi stuff.
I have the 1/2 version of this and coming from using air tools this thing is weak. I ended up buying a Makita high torque wrench instead of this Ryobi stuff.
You are absolutely correct, a high torque version of a tool is indeed more powerful than a low torque tool that costs a quarter the price.
But torque values are only part of the equation, one must also consider size/weight, intended application, and cost to determine which tool is the best fit for them. This 150 ft-lbs 3/8" wrench would be ideal for working on the top end of a cars engine or small gas equipment (where your Makita would be unnecessary overkill), but would be iffy to useless for higher demand applications under a car such as suspension work.
You are absolutely correct, a high torque version of a tool is indeed more powerful than a low torque tool that costs a quarter the price.
But torque values are only part of the equation, one must also consider size/weight, intended application, and cost to determine which tool is the best fit for them. This 150 ft-lbs 3/8" wrench would be ideal for working on the top end of a cars engine or small gas equipment (where your Makita would be unnecessary overkill), but would be iffy to useless for higher demand applications under a car such as suspension work.
I think the 1/2 version of this is 300/350lbs? It could barely get lug nuts off let one anything when doing a brake/rotor change. I ended up back with the breaker bar instead of the Ryobi impact.
You are absolutely correct, a high torque version of a tool is indeed more powerful than a low torque tool that costs a quarter the price.
But torque values are only part of the equation, one must also consider size/weight, intended application, and cost to determine which tool is the best fit for them. This 150 ft-lbs 3/8" wrench would be ideal for working on the top end of a cars engine or small gas equipment (where your Makita would be unnecessary overkill), but would be iffy to useless for higher demand applications under a car such as suspension work.
As dumb as a box of rocks about this stuff. Please assist. Have a pricey Snapper Pro zero turn, pro model and have an old HF corded 1/2" impact wrench currently using. What would I need akin to this listed wrench etc.to be more than adequate (not great overkill) to get the job done with removing/installing the 3 blades on the mower deck, and what am I likely gonna have to pay for it via SD at some point, keeping my eyes open?
I think the 1/2 version of this is 300/350lbs? It could barely get lug nuts off let one anything when doing a brake/rotor change. I ended up back with the breaker bar instead of the Ryobi impact.
What size battery did you use? It breaks bolts fine. Not sure why some folks say it doesn't break lug nuts.
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I mean if I want to loosen up a rusted quarter inch bolt. Is this gonna be more powerful than my impact driver is what I'm getting at?
Brushed impact driver is like 130 ft lbs. Brushless closer to 160 ft lbs. Of course they put them in in/lbs in the product description for marketing purposes.
But what's the advantage of this over a brushless or brushed impact driver?
I have the 1/2 inch impact wrench but it's bulky. I'm trying to justify buying this but if it does the same thing as my driver why buy it?
I'm not trying to be crass. Just looking for more knowledge from other owners.
Thank in advance
Brushed impact driver is like 130 ft lbs. Brushless closer to 160 ft lbs. Of course they put them in in/lbs in the product description for marketing purposes.
But what's the advantage of this over a brushless or brushed impact driver?
I have the 1/2 inch impact wrench but it's bulky. I'm trying to justify buying this but if it does the same thing as my driver why buy it?
I'm not trying to be crass. Just looking for more knowledge from other owners.
Thank in advance
I'm curious as well. The P238 is brushless and provides something like 166 ft-lbs of torque. It's not made for the same purpose but I have impact bits so I can use it with sockets.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank jeff34270
Impact wrench is for sockets and accompanying style of fasteners.
While you can use an adapter to put a socket on a driver, that makes it clunky, larger, and robs torque.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank trza
Brushed impact driver is like 130 ft lbs. Brushless closer to 160 ft lbs. Of course they put them in in/lbs in the product description for marketing purposes.
But what's the advantage of this over a brushless or brushed impact driver?
I have the 1/2 inch impact wrench but it's bulky. I'm trying to justify buying this but if it does the same thing as my driver why buy it?
I'm not trying to be crass. Just looking for more knowledge from other owners.
Thank in advance
Drivers are meant to put screws in things. They have a 1/4" collet. It won't really do well with a 3/8" socket and adapters. Can it work in a pinch? Usually. Is it the right tool for the job? Only you already have a driver and you very rarely have the need. The most expensive tool you own is the one you never use.
Wrenches are meant to put fasteners on and take them off. They have a square drive to accept sockets directly. So a stronger connection and less energy lost on adapters flexing.
Ryobi's 1/2" impact is actually pretty small and lightweight in comparison to the market. I've been on the fence with this unit just because I don't often run into tight spots where the 1/2" doesn't fit. A $10 breaker bar takes care of those problem fasteners. Though this would be more convenient if I did more engine bay work. But once I buy a set of 3/8" impact sockets I really have to question what it would take to make my money back on the investment.
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But torque values are only part of the equation, one must also consider size/weight, intended application, and cost to determine which tool is the best fit for them. This 150 ft-lbs 3/8" wrench would be ideal for working on the top end of a cars engine or small gas equipment (where your Makita would be unnecessary overkill), but would be iffy to useless for higher demand applications under a car such as suspension work.
And it's not just a brand thing, as Makita makes a similar "weak" 155 ft-lbs 3/8" wrench. https://www.toolbarn.co
But torque values are only part of the equation, one must also consider size/weight, intended application, and cost to determine which tool is the best fit for them. This 150 ft-lbs 3/8" wrench would be ideal for working on the top end of a cars engine or small gas equipment (where your Makita would be unnecessary overkill), but would be iffy to useless for higher demand applications under a car such as suspension work.
And it's not just a brand thing, as Makita makes a similar "weak" 155 ft-lbs 3/8" wrench. https://www.toolbarn.co
I think the 1/2 version of this is 300/350lbs? It could barely get lug nuts off let one anything when doing a brake/rotor change. I ended up back with the breaker bar instead of the Ryobi impact.
But torque values are only part of the equation, one must also consider size/weight, intended application, and cost to determine which tool is the best fit for them. This 150 ft-lbs 3/8" wrench would be ideal for working on the top end of a cars engine or small gas equipment (where your Makita would be unnecessary overkill), but would be iffy to useless for higher demand applications under a car such as suspension work.
And it's not just a brand thing, as Makita makes a similar "weak" 155 ft-lbs 3/8" wrench. https://www.toolbarn.co