I just purchased this water heater, normally $1299, for $799 + tax + $75 shipping.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem.../312742081
Steps to get deal:
1) Go to above link
2) Change store to zip code 15010(Edit: use Zip 97322 for $699 instead of $799)
3) Select Ship to Home (unless you happen to live close to this store), add to cart.
4) Check out.
Additional notes:
1) Federal tax credit of $300. State tax credits vary, in my home state we get an additional $400 (bringing this heater down to $99 + $75 shipping + tax).
2) For many/most, the $75 shipping is worth it even if you can get this price locally as these heaters are quite heavy and supposedly must be transported vertically.
3) Do your homework on these hybrid heaters before purchasing. You need 220V to operate. Installation expense is generally much higher with hybrid electric vs standard electric resistance heaters and gas heaters. Hot water recovery is very slow (but you can switch to standard electric mode for rapid recovery when you know your usage will be high, e.g. having company over). They can apparently be loud, so if this will be located close to a bedroom, important to think about. There are important climate and installation location factors to consider--just google.
4) The newest generation of this series from Rheem, called "Proterra" can be had for $1269, a slight discount compared to full price (15% for my location). After carefully examining specs, photos, etc - it seems that the only difference with the Proterra series is built-in leak detection with auto-shutoff. FYI if that feature is important to you, you can add it for $219:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem...513?NCNI-5
5) This is for 50 gallon. Looks like if you need 65 gal or 80 gal, the Proterra is actually on sale (whereas the Performance Platinum is full price), making the Proterra cheaper.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem.../312742081
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Here is a video [youtube.com] showing replacement of the LeakGuard sensor which gives me hope it is as they say.
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Parts cost around $150 from HD. plastic water catch pan, 20 ft PVC, 10 ft 3/4 copper pipe etc.
Hardest parts were to reconfigure water inlet outlet from the top to the side and create new drain line (making hole in the wall to let drain go outside)
It was cheaper than $800-900 installation quote from local plumbers. However I won't get $400 rebate from local electric company since I did not use licensed plumber.
Any reason you didn't use flexible hoses (braided copper or braided steel)?
Any reason you didn't use flexible hoses (braided copper or braided steel)?
I got this exact model of Rheem a few years ago with a special 12 year warranty. It comes with a sensor that goes in the pan and alerts you if it starts leaking. Without a pan this might not work.
Any reason you didn't use flexible hoses (braided copper or braided steel)?
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Also I used copper water heater connector to connect the hot and cold line.
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I followed this guy's installation done by the licenced contractor in Phoenix AZ.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h...lbe
By the way, I called Rheem regarding which mode saves the best electricity for this unit.
I explained them my situations that I want to save max electricity bill and don't worry about recovering time. I currently put my water heater in heat pump mode.
They told me that in heat pump mode, compressor runs longer time to get up the temperature, and "Energy Saving" mode is the best because water heater runs the shortest amount of the time to get up the temp regardless of using heating element.
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https://www.homedepot.c
Also I used copper water heater connector to connect the hot and cold line.
https://www.homedepot.c
I followed this guy's installation done by the licenced contractor in Phoenix AZ.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h...lbe
By the way, I called Rheem regarding which mode saves the best electricity for this unit.
I explained them my situations that I want to save max electricity bill and don't worry about recovering time. I currently put my water heater in heat pump mode.
They told me that in heat pump mode, compressor runs longer time to get up the temperature, and "Energy Saving" mode is the best because water heater runs the shortest amount of the time to get up the temp regardless of using heating element.
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with 90 or 45 degrees adapters
https://www.homedepot.c
to rearrange inlet/outlet to the side from the top like you seen in the youtube video.
Also you need copper pipe cutter
https://www.homedepot.c
and tools shown bellow to solder copper tubes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J...=Go
And connect drain from the water heater to the house drains
need pvc pipe cutter, pvc primer/glue, Tee, 90 or 45 degrees adapters
make sure that you can fit 26 in water heater catch pan
https://www.homedepot.c
with 90 or 45 degrees adapters
https://www.homedepot.c
to rearrange inlet/outlet to the side from the top like you seen in the youtube video.
Also you need copper pipe cutter
https://www.homedepot.c
and tools shown bellow to solder copper tubes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J...=Go
And connect drain from the water heater to the house drains
need pvc pipe cutter, pvc primer/glue, Tee, 90 or 45 degrees adapters
make sure that you can fit 26 in water heater catch pan
https://www.amazon.com/Eastman-60...B01GSG1YLI
Also, take a look at rheems install instructions, they recommend a tee at the condensate drain outlet so you can flush it easily.
You can convert from copper to pex if you don't want to deal with copper soldering. Sharkbite makes adapters. I recommend pex over the corrugated metal tubes. Less chance of leaking long term.
here's my install, the relief valve is on the right side kinda hidden behind the stud.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2xeer4w...7.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Eastman-60...B01GSG1YLI
Also, take a look at rheems install instructions, they recommend a tee at the condensate drain outlet so you can flush it easily.
You can convert from copper to pex if you don't want to deal with copper soldering. Sharkbite makes adapters. I recommend pex over the corrugated metal tubes. Less chance of leaking long term.
here's my install, the relief valve is on the right side kinda hidden behind the stud.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2xeer4w...7.jpg
Also can you suggest a cheap/economical crimper and crimps for pex like used in your install.
Also can you suggest a cheap/economical crimper and crimps for pex like used in your install.
You could go:
-existing copper - cpvc - flex pipe - water heater
-existing copper - pex - water heater
-existing copper - copper - flex/pex - water heater
I chose to transition from cpvc to pex because as a homeowner, it's much easier to cut and dry fit everything without having to mess with glue and you can't bottom out the fittings to measure without glueing. Yeah you can measure before glue and subtract the bottoming depth but it's just more steps and chances to make a mistake. You also get some more flexibility to make adjustments with pex, you can still rotate the fittings some after they are crimped. Downside of pex is cost of fittings, I had a lot of turns so it added up but in my case I felt it was worth it.
As for the flex pipe, I was already using pex so it made more sense to continue using it. Also, the flex pipe is rubber inside, it is not as durable as PEX, CPVC, or copper. It's also more expensive than PEX. You also can't run flex all the way from your water heater to your existing cooper (only comes in short lengths) so you would have to also use PEX, CPVC, or copper to get your line closer to the inlet/outlet. You may decide for your application that if the flex pipe does leak eventually (small chance) that it's not that big of a deal. It's in a easily serviceable location and would be very easy to replace in the future. like I said, a lot of ways to do it. Going from existing cooper to CPVC to flex will prob be your cheapest option and because you're using flex pipe if the CPVC is off a little, you have that flexibility.
Depending on your local code, you might not be allowed to connect PEX directly to your water heater, some call for some rigid pipe to be used, then PEX. My code did not require it.
For the crimp tool, I borrowed a friend's but this one seems decent.
https://www.amazon.com/iCrimp-4-i...0727RY8FC/
I'll also add you need a 30a breaker to run this. If not, you're gonna have to call an electrician. I had to add a new circuit for this water heater because my old one was only 20a.
https://www.homedepot.c
with 90 or 45 degrees adapters
https://www.homedepot.c
to rearrange inlet/outlet to the side from the top like you seen in the youtube video.
Also you need copper pipe cutter
https://www.homedepot.c
and tools shown bellow to solder copper tubes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J...=Go
And connect drain from the water heater to the house drains
need pvc pipe cutter, pvc primer/glue, Tee, 90 or 45 degrees adapters
make sure that you can fit 26 in water heater catch pan
https://www.amazon.com/Eastman-60...B01GSG1YLI
Also, take a look at rheems install instructions, they recommend a tee at the condensate drain outlet so you can flush it easily.
You can convert from copper to pex if you don't want to deal with copper soldering. Sharkbite makes adapters. I recommend pex over the corrugated metal tubes. Less chance of leaking long term.
here's my install, the relief valve is on the right side kinda hidden behind the stud.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2xeer4w...7.jpg
Anyway, this is a great deal. I had mine installed by a professional plumber. It looks great and it sips power. Even in a cold garage (~50F in Northern CA right now) it's able to keep the water at 110F without much effort, and I'll run it once a week at 140 to kill any bacteria, probably with the blended "energy saver" or "high demand" mode. As others have mentioned, it's somewhere between a refrigerator and modern air conditioner in terms of noise, and way quieter than my old 4t Trane XL80, so basically not an issue. The app is pretty basic, but it works well.
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