You don't want to till for grass seeding. The poster is telling you the way to do it. You only want rows an 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep. Verticutter is the machine to use. Anything deeper and the seeds will smother
Cut the grass as short as you can get it without scalping the lawn
Run a dethatcher and rake up the thatch so the seed can lay directly on dirt. If it doesn't it'll never sprout p
Cut the grass one more time to pick up anything missed from the above
Run a verticutter in two opposing directions to make your seed rows to the depth mentioned above
Fertilize with grass seed starter. Do not use fertilizer with a pre emergent or it'll prevent the grass from sprouting
Lay the seed and water, water water. Cut the first time when the grass reaches 4"
Use the above for a yard that needs help. If the entire lawn is crapola kill it off with two applications of grass killer a week apart. Wait a week then do the above
Have to do this in early fall.
Dial 811
Good deal. I have this one and bought it for $110.00 5 years back on Amazon. Still holding strong don't expect front gas power tiller strength but it's great for a medium garden. Yea sure you gotta watch that cord but I hated fighting the gas engine issues at the Start of each season.
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Thanks! Been looking for a sale on tillers to fix the mess on the side of my house I'm trying to convert to a garden and redo my grass. This is basically the price of renting!
Repped.
Is this good enough to remove weed? I don't use to use spray to kill them.
Using a cultivator to remove weeds is like using a hand grenade to open a beer. No assurance of getting the root and high probability of spreading the seed.
Gotta use pre emergent fertilizer in the early spring and spray the weeds that get through that barrier.
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07-14-2021 at 06:52 PM.
Quote
from Parad153
:
Sorry, I don't understand. How does that help tilling then reseed? Also, I have a few fruit trees and raised beds in the backyard, I don't want to use roundup
You don't want to till for grass seeding. The poster is telling you the way to do it. You only want rows an 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep. Verticutter is the machine to use. Anything deeper and the seeds will smother
Cut the grass as short as you can get it without scalping the lawn
Run a dethatcher and rake up the thatch so the seed can lay directly on dirt. If it doesn't it'll never sprout p
Cut the grass one more time to pick up anything missed from the above
Run a verticutter in two opposing directions to make your seed rows to the depth mentioned above
Fertilize with grass seed starter. Do not use fertilizer with a pre emergent or it'll prevent the grass from sprouting
Lay the seed and water, water water. Cut the first time when the grass reaches 4"
Use the above for a yard that needs help. If the entire lawn is crapola kill it off with two applications of grass killer a week apart. Wait a week then do the above
Sorry, I don't understand. How does that help tilling then reseed? Also, I have a few fruit trees and raised beds in the backyard, I don't want to use roundup
I think his comments address seed bed preparation for re-establishing a lawn by seed.
The general plan would be to spray the existing lawn plants (grasses and weeds) with a herbicide like Roundup, killing 'em all. Then, once plants are dead, run a de-thatcher unit over lawn, set on the 'low' setting so it digs down into the soil a couple of inches as it cuts. That basically prepares the soil as a better seed bed for germination of seeds and establishment of new plants. Then apply starter fertilizer and lime as needed, sow new seed and gently rake in, mulch with wheatstraw or whtvr, and water to keep seed bed moist until new grass is established. TMI?
Also, Roundup works on whatever plant it lands on, but has no 'soil activity', so spraying it on your lawn plants won't affect your trees, shrubs, or beds unless the spray drifts and lands on them, too.
edit: I'm slow and the post above has better details.
Sorry, I don't understand. How does that help tilling then reseed? Also, I have a few fruit trees and raised beds in the backyard, I don't want to use roundup
Yes this will help to turn and loosen the soil for reseeding.
Lay the seed and water, water water. Cut the first time when the grass reaches 4"
Use the above for a yard that needs help. If the entire lawn is crapola kill it off with two applications of grass killer a week apart. Wait a week then do the above
Have to do this in early fall.
This is the way to do it. Unless your current lawn is infested with weeds, in which case rototilling the soil is the way to go to start fresh. Instead of cutting the grass, kill it. If you don't want to use chemicals (RoundUp) and time is on your side, buy some black plastic sheeting and cover your grass with that, it will be dead in a couple of weeks. Then rake/dethatch all the dead grass and rototill your soil. Then follow the same steps after the "verticutter" part here above. Watering the seeds every day is key. Also, cover them with EzStraw[acehardware.com]to prevent birds from eating the seeds. It will decompose by itself, so you don't have to worry about removing it later.
Sorry, I don't understand. How does that help tilling then reseed? Also, I have a few fruit trees and raised beds in the backyard, I don't want to use roundup
Tilling can bring up weed seeds that may be dormant in your soil, thus negatively impacting your reseeding efforts.
You don't want to till for grass seeding. The poster is telling you the way to do it. You only want rows an 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep. Verticutter is the machine to use. Anything deeper and the seeds will smother
Cut the grass as short as you can get it without scalping the lawn
Run a dethatcher and rake up the thatch so the seed can lay directly on dirt. If it doesn't it'll never sprout p
Cut the grass one more time to pick up anything missed from the above
Run a verticutter in two opposing directions to make your seed rows to the depth mentioned above
Fertilize with grass seed starter. Do not use fertilizer with a pre emergent or it'll prevent the grass from sprouting
Lay the seed and water, water water. Cut the first time when the grass reaches 4"
Use the above for a yard that needs help. If the entire lawn is crapola kill it off with two applications of grass killer a week apart. Wait a week then do the above
Have to do this in early fall.
Just wanted to add that you need to know your lawn type. early fall is best for cool season grass. Not required but it's ideal to reseed during your grass type's optimal growing season, I believe warm season grasses are summertime
Just wanted to add that you need to know your lawn type. early fall is best for cool season grass. Not required but it's ideal to reseed during your grass type's optimal growing season, I believe warm season grasses are summertime
Excellent add my friend. Lawn has to be established with good roots before summer heat moves in that's why fall is primary seeding time to give the new seeds and lawn a fighting chance the next summer BUT some lawns, seeds, environments are different and it's best to know your lawn, your seed and your local. Again. Good point!
I have the TJ602E, which is 12" and 8 amps. I also have a Troy-Bilt Pony 5hp rear tine shaft drive tiller. The Pony is probably the minimum I'd look to for tilling a new lawn (new, not reseeding, as discussed above). It has the weight and torque to dig into clay soil and break it up, an inch or two at a pass. The TJ602E that I use is great for garden beds that are not walked on. I use it to turn in amendments in raised beds, and the wheels allow the tiller to balance when I hold it with one hand at arm's length to avoid walking on freshly tilled soil.
I don't think this tiller, at 14" and only 6.5 amps, has the weight or torque to handle anything much more than small flower beds. There's no way this has the power to dig into hard clay and break it up when preparing new planting beds. And without the wheels, handling it even in soft soils will be difficult without walking behind, which will immediately compact the soil. I'd give this a pass and look to higher amperages.
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Cut the grass as short as you can get it without scalping the lawn
Run a dethatcher and rake up the thatch so the seed can lay directly on dirt. If it doesn't it'll never sprout p
Cut the grass one more time to pick up anything missed from the above
Run a verticutter in two opposing directions to make your seed rows to the depth mentioned above
Fertilize with grass seed starter. Do not use fertilizer with a pre emergent or it'll prevent the grass from sprouting
Lay the seed and water, water water. Cut the first time when the grass reaches 4"
Use the above for a yard that needs help. If the entire lawn is crapola kill it off with two applications of grass killer a week apart. Wait a week then do the above
Have to do this in early fall.
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You are the idiot. They mark front and back.
Repped.
Using a cultivator to remove weeds is like using a hand grenade to open a beer. No assurance of getting the root and high probability of spreading the seed.
Gotta use pre emergent fertilizer in the early spring and spray the weeds that get through that barrier.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank dafed60
You don't want to till for grass seeding. The poster is telling you the way to do it. You only want rows an 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep. Verticutter is the machine to use. Anything deeper and the seeds will smother
Cut the grass as short as you can get it without scalping the lawn
Run a dethatcher and rake up the thatch so the seed can lay directly on dirt. If it doesn't it'll never sprout p
Cut the grass one more time to pick up anything missed from the above
Run a verticutter in two opposing directions to make your seed rows to the depth mentioned above
Fertilize with grass seed starter. Do not use fertilizer with a pre emergent or it'll prevent the grass from sprouting
Lay the seed and water, water water. Cut the first time when the grass reaches 4"
Use the above for a yard that needs help. If the entire lawn is crapola kill it off with two applications of grass killer a week apart. Wait a week then do the above
Have to do this in early fall.
The general plan would be to spray the existing lawn plants (grasses and weeds) with a herbicide like Roundup, killing 'em all. Then, once plants are dead, run a de-thatcher unit over lawn, set on the 'low' setting so it digs down into the soil a couple of inches as it cuts. That basically prepares the soil as a better seed bed for germination of seeds and establishment of new plants. Then apply starter fertilizer and lime as needed, sow new seed and gently rake in, mulch with wheatstraw or whtvr, and water to keep seed bed moist until new grass is established. TMI?
Also, Roundup works on whatever plant it lands on, but has no 'soil activity', so spraying it on your lawn plants won't affect your trees, shrubs, or beds unless the spray drifts and lands on them, too.
edit: I'm slow and the post above has better details.
Yes this will help to turn and loosen the soil for reseeding.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Use the above for a yard that needs help. If the entire lawn is crapola kill it off with two applications of grass killer a week apart. Wait a week then do the above
Have to do this in early fall.
Tilling can bring up weed seeds that may be dormant in your soil, thus negatively impacting your reseeding efforts.
Cut the grass as short as you can get it without scalping the lawn
Run a dethatcher and rake up the thatch so the seed can lay directly on dirt. If it doesn't it'll never sprout p
Cut the grass one more time to pick up anything missed from the above
Run a verticutter in two opposing directions to make your seed rows to the depth mentioned above
Fertilize with grass seed starter. Do not use fertilizer with a pre emergent or it'll prevent the grass from sprouting
Lay the seed and water, water water. Cut the first time when the grass reaches 4"
Use the above for a yard that needs help. If the entire lawn is crapola kill it off with two applications of grass killer a week apart. Wait a week then do the above
Have to do this in early fall.
Just wanted to add that you need to know your lawn type. early fall is best for cool season grass. Not required but it's ideal to reseed during your grass type's optimal growing season, I believe warm season grasses are summertime
Excellent add my friend. Lawn has to be established with good roots before summer heat moves in that's why fall is primary seeding time to give the new seeds and lawn a fighting chance the next summer BUT some lawns, seeds, environments are different and it's best to know your lawn, your seed and your local. Again. Good point!
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I don't think this tiller, at 14" and only 6.5 amps, has the weight or torque to handle anything much more than small flower beds. There's no way this has the power to dig into hard clay and break it up when preparing new planting beds. And without the wheels, handling it even in soft soils will be difficult without walking behind, which will immediately compact the soil. I'd give this a pass and look to higher amperages.