3-Piece Ozark Trail Pre-Seasoned Cast Iron Skillet Set
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$14.95
$26.95
+ Free Store Pickup
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Walmart.com has 3-Piece Ozark Trail Pre-Seasoned Cast Iron Skillet Set on sale for $14.95. Select free in-store pickup where available, otherwise shipping is free w/ Walmart+ (free trial) or on $35+ orders.
Thanks to Deal Hunter savvyshopper7903 for finding this deal.
Set Includes:
8" Skillet
10.5" Skillet
12" Skillet
Product Info:
These skillets are made from sturdy cast-iron material, promising years of re-use.
Pre-seasoning gives your food a unique & hearty flavor that you will come to expect.
Enjoy all of the delicious flavors of an outdoor grill, with the option to cook indoors conveniently.
The loop handle, adds extra stability when lifting a full pan.
Great option for campers to use when cooking over an open fire.
My research indicates this 3-Piece Ozark Trail Pre-Seasoned Cast Iron Skillet Set has been previously frontpage here at $19 (Jan. 2020) and here at $17 (Dec. 2019).
I cook on Lodge skillets daily, as well as sometimes on an old Griswold or two.
When I get my Lodge skillets new, the first thing I do is do a high temp seasoning with about 1/4" of Lard, followed by a cooling off to about 150ยฐ, then a scraping of the bottom with a thin metal scraper, which removes nearly all the 'bumpiness' of the inside bottom.
Most of the 'bumpiness', believe it or not, comes from the "pre-seasoning", which I remove thru the process.
But Ozark Trail has an actual coarse 'sandblast' finish to it, on the iron itself.
After I re-season my Lodges 'my way', then eggs or any food just slides right out like it was a teflon pan, and nothing sticks.
I've been cooking on cast iron over 50 years.
Welcome to America.
Welcome to Walmart.
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I bought the Ozark Trail Pre-seasoned 15" Cast Iron Skillet about 6 years ago.
I am careful NOT to overheat it.
I am careful to NOT use SOAP ever.
I season it well after EACH use.
I bought it for the large surface area.
Yes, this thing can be heavy !
For the 12 dollars I paid for it at the time, I am very happy
I feel like overheating shouldn't be an issue with cast iron pans, on a regular stove, or am I wrong? I get it that too much heat may ruin the food, but the pan? How hot is too hot if that's the case? Thanks very much from a cast iron wannabe.
Thanks, wasn't gonna get one but got one specifically after reading this helpful comment.
That's like saying you drank a bucket of cyanide after someone told you not to.
Quote
from Accster
:
That was only to help permeate/soften the factory 'pre-seasoning', while the metal scraper worked as an abrasive to remove both the factory 'pre-seasoning', as well as abrasive action on the 'high spots' of the sand casting 'granules', thus somewhat smoothing them.
I've also removed factory pre-seasoning by 'furnace-heating' the cast iron (dry, no oil/lard) at temps around 650ยฐ or greater.
The easier way to strip off the pre-seasoning from my experience is with Easy-Off oven cleaner. It's a strong alkaline solution that you spray the cast iron down with and then you leave it in a plastic bag for about 24 hrs and then the seasonong washes off in the sink with water. No heating is required. A concentrated solution of lye might work too, but I haven't tried it.
I feel like overheating shouldn't be an issue with cast iron pans, on a regular stove, or am I wrong? I get it that too much heat may ruin the food, but the pan? How hot is too hot if that's the case? Thanks very much from a cast iron wannabe.
I grew up with my Mom cooking only with iron skillets. I use mine only on the electric stove top, and baking cornbread in the oven.
No....camping open fires
Some preheat their iron skillets very high to cook pizzas.
I use mine to stir fry my ground italian sausage and ground beef and onions and peppers.
As soon as my iron skillet cools I try to wipe out the grease with paper towels, newspapers. I then slowly add enough water to "sear" what is left on the bottom.
I then add oil to the iron skillet, heat it up a bit(hot), then wipe it clean.
These are cheap iron skillets and heavy.
Many use iron skillets for everything.
Good luck...read about iron skillets and cracking in other reviews
If you have the least bit of surface rust under the seasoning, it will flake. They've changed their casting from the Griswald days they don't hand finish much anymore. In yesteryears, there was actually someone to polish up the casting. Now they come out decent enough.
Burning works. But really what you want to do is just get the high stuff off, and make sure the base is well adhered.
After that the rough finish isn't a big deal. Your layer of patina will fill in the divots. You just have to cook often for that to happen.
I cook on Lodge skillets daily, as well as sometimes on an old Griswold or two.
When I get my Lodge skillets new, the first thing I do is do a high temp seasoning with about 1/4" of Lard, followed by a cooling off to about 150ยฐ, then a scraping of the bottom with a thin metal scraper, which removes nearly all the 'bumpiness' of the inside bottom.
Most of the 'bumpiness', believe it or not, comes from the "pre-seasoning", which I remove thru the process.
But Ozark Trail has an actual coarse 'sandblast' finish to it, on the iron itself.
After I re-season my Lodges 'my way', then eggs or any food just slides right out like it was a teflon pan, and nothing sticks.
I've been cooking on cast iron over 50 years.
I sanded down the pan to complete smoothness with a sander, then seasoned in the oven, and through using it. Worked like a charm.
I feel like overheating shouldn't be an issue with cast iron pans, on a regular stove, or am I wrong? I get it that too much heat may ruin the food, but the pan? How hot is too hot if that's the case? Thanks very much from a cast iron wannabe.
As well as what basset53 said, (plus his/her Italian sausage/ground beef/peppers & onions sounds very deelish), the main reason overheating cast iron is harmful is *not* that it will damage the skillet's cast iron itself, but a high enough temp will destroy the well-established seasoning of the skillet or whatever cast iron cookware.
For instance, I have a skillet I use only for high temp searing of meats or fish (similar to Chef Paul Prudhomme's famous "Blackened Redfish"). Seasoning can't survive at that temp, so I keep that skillet only lightly "surface-oiled" to prevent rust and only use it for very high temp searing.
If I was to try to use THAT skillet to cook eggs or whatever, they would surely stick bad, as that requires a well-seasoned skillet.
Same with those who have cast iron pizza pans and run at high temps. Too high a temp destroys the seasoning, so it's use is only for pizza and such.
Cast iron itself can withstand any household stove/oven heat, if heated fairly evenly. But it can't withstand any significant temperature 'shock', such as pouring cold water into a very hot skillet. It will crack then, and if not then, you made a brittle point that will crack later.
After cooking, I cool my cast iron down 'naturally' in air to about 200ยฐ-250ยฐ(max) before slowly pouring in some very hot tap water. I've only had 1 piece of cast iron cookware crack and that was 50 yrs ago on a large 16" campfire oven that a large rimmed top lid to hold hot coal and has 3 legs as part of the base casting. But that cracked due to a very flawed (and visible) casting spot near one of the 'legs'. I was cooking over a full glowing coal campfire at the time.
The easier way to strip off the pre-seasoning from my experience is with Easy-Off oven cleaner. It's a strong alkaline solution that you spray the cast iron down with and then you leave it in a plastic bag for about 24 hrs and then the seasonong washes off in the sink with water. No heating is required. A concentrated solution of lye might work too, but I haven't tried it.
Yes, I've done the Easy-Off oven cleaner method, which largely contains lye, many times I typically do it on old rusty 'garage sale' cast iron cookware, but with the newer 6" Lodge I just decided to see the results after the high heat method/treatment. Not get it down to bare iron.
But I do need to do the Easy-Off/lye method on an old Victor/Griswold that someone had coated with toxic "Stove Black" polish, as they weren't using it for cooking, but only for 'show' in their collection.
Quote
from Raccoonish
:
I sanded down the pan to complete smoothness with a sander, then seasoned in the oven, and through using it. Worked like a charm.
That's great & it shows your initial seasoning process was great, most of all.
I would have definitely sanded the 'gritty' surface of the Ozark Trail too, but my main point/opinion was that Lodge's smoother 'bumpiness' (in most cases, not all) makes sanding less needed.
The reason I say this (and is somewhat 'proof') is because food will always stick to even a glass-smooth skillet if it's not seasoned properly... but food won't stick to even a 'bumpy-texture' skillet if it is seasoned well (and if proper cast iron heating/cooking methods are used).
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When I get my Lodge skillets new, the first thing I do is do a high temp seasoning with about 1/4" of Lard, followed by a cooling off to about 150ยฐ, then a scraping of the bottom with a thin metal scraper, which removes nearly all the 'bumpiness' of the inside bottom.
Most of the 'bumpiness', believe it or not, comes from the "pre-seasoning", which I remove thru the process.
But Ozark Trail has an actual coarse 'sandblast' finish to it, on the iron itself.
After I re-season my Lodges 'my way', then eggs or any food just slides right out like it was a teflon pan, and nothing sticks.
I've been cooking on cast iron over 50 years.
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I am careful NOT to overheat it.
I am careful to NOT use SOAP ever.
I season it well after EACH use.
I bought it for the large surface area.
Yes, this thing can be heavy !
For the 12 dollars I paid for it at the time, I am very happy
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-T...2/53987486
Welcome to the Universe.
I've also removed factory pre-seasoning by 'furnace-heating' the cast iron (dry, no oil/lard) at temps around 650ยฐ or greater.
No....camping open fires
Some preheat their iron skillets very high to cook pizzas.
I use mine to stir fry my ground italian sausage and ground beef and onions and peppers.
As soon as my iron skillet cools I try to wipe out the grease with paper towels, newspapers. I then slowly add enough water to "sear" what is left on the bottom.
I then add oil to the iron skillet, heat it up a bit(hot), then wipe it clean.
These are cheap iron skillets and heavy.
Many use iron skillets for everything.
Good luck...read about iron skillets and cracking in other reviews
Be safe
Burning works. But really what you want to do is just get the high stuff off, and make sure the base is well adhered.
After that the rough finish isn't a big deal. Your layer of patina will fill in the divots. You just have to cook often for that to happen.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
When I get my Lodge skillets new, the first thing I do is do a high temp seasoning with about 1/4" of Lard, followed by a cooling off to about 150ยฐ, then a scraping of the bottom with a thin metal scraper, which removes nearly all the 'bumpiness' of the inside bottom.
Most of the 'bumpiness', believe it or not, comes from the "pre-seasoning", which I remove thru the process.
But Ozark Trail has an actual coarse 'sandblast' finish to it, on the iron itself.
After I re-season my Lodges 'my way', then eggs or any food just slides right out like it was a teflon pan, and nothing sticks.
I've been cooking on cast iron over 50 years.
For instance, I have a skillet I use only for high temp searing of meats or fish (similar to Chef Paul Prudhomme's famous "Blackened Redfish"). Seasoning can't survive at that temp, so I keep that skillet only lightly "surface-oiled" to prevent rust and only use it for very high temp searing.
If I was to try to use THAT skillet to cook eggs or whatever, they would surely stick bad, as that requires a well-seasoned skillet.
Same with those who have cast iron pizza pans and run at high temps. Too high a temp destroys the seasoning, so it's use is only for pizza and such.
Cast iron itself can withstand any household stove/oven heat, if heated fairly evenly. But it can't withstand any significant temperature 'shock', such as pouring cold water into a very hot skillet. It will crack then, and if not then, you made a brittle point that will crack later.
After cooking, I cool my cast iron down 'naturally' in air to about 200ยฐ-250ยฐ(max) before slowly pouring in some very hot tap water. I've only had 1 piece of cast iron cookware crack and that was 50 yrs ago on a large 16" campfire oven that a large rimmed top lid to hold hot coal and has 3 legs as part of the base casting. But that cracked due to a very flawed (and visible) casting spot near one of the 'legs'. I was cooking over a full glowing coal campfire at the time.
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But I do need to do the Easy-Off/lye method on an old Victor/Griswold that someone had coated with toxic "Stove Black" polish, as they weren't using it for cooking, but only for 'show' in their collection.
I would have definitely sanded the 'gritty' surface of the Ozark Trail too, but my main point/opinion was that Lodge's smoother 'bumpiness' (in most cases, not all) makes sanding less needed.
The reason I say this (and is somewhat 'proof') is because food will always stick to even a glass-smooth skillet if it's not seasoned properly... but food won't stick to even a 'bumpy-texture' skillet if it is seasoned well (and if proper cast iron heating/cooking methods are used).