Home Depot has
Ryobi ONE+ 18-Volt Cordless 3-Speed 1/2" Impact Wrench Kit w/ 4.0Ah Battery & Charger (P261K1) on sale for
$99. Select free curbside pickup where available.
Thanks to Community Member
nctrevor24 for finding this deal.
Note, curbside pickup may vary depending on location.
Includes:- 1x P261 3-Speed 1/2 in. Impact Wrench
- 1x PBP005 4.0 Ah Lithium-Ion Battery
- 1x PCG002 18V Lithium-Ion Charger
- Operator's Manual
Features:- Produces 300 ft./lbs. of torque and up to 3,200 impacts per minute (IPM)
- 3-speed selector switch and tri-beam LED lights
- 3-speed selector switch offers greater control over a wide range of fastening applications
- Tri-LED light increases work area visibility
- 1/2 in. square anvil with detent pin retention for easy and secure socket connection
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- Older water heaters were built to last with large anodes and thick glass tank linings, newer ones are not.
- Your local water and its pH/mineral content will determine the life you will get out of components, particularly the anodes.
Examples:
I've had a modern 6 year old W/H fail right at 6 years.
I've seen a high quality W/H on well water built in 1989 still functioning with zero corrosion.
You may not need to replace the anode, it just depends, but it's worth checking. As soon as the anode is half gone it's worth replacing (why? - minerals can build up on the outside surface and limit its sacrificial ability). If you need to replace it, anodes typically come in long rods but flexible anodes with several sections attached by steel cable are available if your W/H is installed in a tight spot with little clearance overhead.
While on topic of W/H maintenance, also be sure to:
- Add testing the temperature & pressure relief valve and make sure it drains properly outside to your routine maintenance checklist. Those TPRVs can get build-up around them over time if not used or slowly dripping and fail to work or seal. This is the best place to see indication of rust as it stays mostly stagnant there and water running through the taps will be quite diluted. If you see rust here it means your sacrificial anode is not being effective.
- Check the top connections for moisture and if you have a gas unit make sure your vent pipe is properly attached and functional. This is the best way to know if you have trouble brewing before it becomes a disaster. Another benefit is that home stores get new/uninstalled water heater returns all the time and sell them for half price. If you have an indication that your tank is starting to fail you have a little time on your side and it's a great way to save hundreds on the replacement.
- Drain / flush the tank annually to keep an eye on how much build-up is forming and falling to the bottom. This will be your best indication of rust and of how much build up you're getting. Don't forget to turn off the breaker or gas for it so you don't burn out the elements when the water level drops. I actually try to do this in the fall and spring to not spike my electric load charges because that's when the HVAC isn't running and it's nice enough to keep the garage door open for hours.
- Replace the tank drain with a brass 3/4" full flow quarter-turn ball valve with a garden hose adapter on the end, this makes flushing a breeze. It's about $15. The factory drains are usually cheap plastic and clog easily because they're tiny. Remove the handle after installation for safety.
There are tons of YouTube videos on all of these items, they're pretty simple after you do it once.
Edit: I forgot to mention that the primary difference between water heaters with different warranties these days is the anode. 12 yr warranty units will usually have the largest anodes (or two) made from better materials. Anodes can be made from zinc, magnesium or aluminum and it's the first place manufacturers go to save money. A 6 yr W/H will have the cheapest anode but will likely have the same tank as the 12 yr W/H. It may even have an extra plug space for an extra anode. You'll only see the plastic as these are usually covered with foam during production so if you're having trouble finding your anode or searching for an extra anode spot look for the caps and cut out some of the foam under them.
For all the other little things around the house, like lawn mower blades and lug nuts, it has had no issues whatsoever.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank kneeldug
For all the other little things around the house, like lawn mower blades and lug nuts, it has had no issues whatsoever.
I'm not sure what I would use an electrostatic sprayer for, but that's another option if you don't need the battery.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank LeasedJet
And if anyone else is reading this and needs justification to buy this tool this one application (replacing the water heater anode every 4 or so years) might save you hundreds on a new water tank. The larger deep impact socket set you need for the anodes and everything else this is useful for can be bought at Harbor Freight for about $27 (I used the metric set) - https://www.harborfreig
I ended up selling this model and upgrading to the 600ft/lb brushless, but this always had plenty of power. IMHO the battery included with this is subpar but at least it's 4Ah.
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