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CRC 05319 GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner, 11 oz - FS on $35+ $13.78
$13.78
$18.14
CRC 05319 GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner, 11 oz - FS on $35+
Product Features:
Can be used on air intake valves on GDI or standard fuel injected engines
Also effective for use on GDI and standard PFI engines.
Delivers concentrated advanced technology directly to the backs of intake valves.
Easily installed through the air intake system
Dissolves baked-on carbon deposits and improves MPG
Increases power and reduces rough idle.
Proven to clean intake valves on GDI engines and turbo systems
Highest concentration PEA (Polyether Amine) detergency available
Proven to remove up to 46% of GDI Intake Valve deposits in 1 hour
150X more concentrated than fuel additive
Updated Video here;
How To Use CRC GDI Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner [youtube.com]
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-05.../173095958
Product Features:
Can be used on air intake valves on GDI or standard fuel injected engines
Also effective for use on GDI and standard PFI engines.
Delivers concentrated advanced technology directly to the backs of intake valves.
Easily installed through the air intake system
Dissolves baked-on carbon deposits and improves MPG
Increases power and reduces rough idle.
Proven to clean intake valves on GDI engines and turbo systems
Highest concentration PEA (Polyether Amine) detergency available
Proven to remove up to 46% of GDI Intake Valve deposits in 1 hour
150X more concentrated than fuel additive
Updated Video here;
How To Use CRC GDI Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner [youtube.com]
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-05.../173095958
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Cease with the Strawman nonsense.
You got snarky over what was a simple discussion for all costs and then whine because you got a similar response. Try being nice...
About now, I am waiting on 'Mutt' to chime in. But, as always, I made my point and no need for further discussion. I am not wandering around Menards for one item to save 18 cents. I will shop at Menards for a bunker/quantity of whatever if they are the cheapest net.
But honestly, I would like some advice about how to phrase it when a better deal is possible at Menards so that the discussion doesn't get sidetracked about all of the apparent issues some people may have with shopping at Menards.
But honestly, I would like some advice about how to phrase it when a better deal is possible at Menards so that the discussion doesn't get sidetracked about all of the apparent issues some people may have with shopping at Menards.
With what began as saving 18 cents over the OP with a lot of effort, you are now up to multiple trips and multiple purchases to mail in multiple rebates that do have a limited time frame to do so.
On more than one occasion, having the copies of original receipt(s) was the only saving grace with Menard's rebate center that ONLY has slow mail contact. If I had to send in the rebate for just this one item (with backup copy) twice, besides my time, I would be losing money. Be like Walmart, Amazon, etc., and just give me the deal DELIVERED without the rebate nonsense that has been proven to be a profit maker for the seller and why they do it.
The conclusion is the same as the beginning.... Do whatever you want, buy whatever you want, because quite honestly, nobody cares.
With what began as saving 18 cents over the OP with a lot of effort, you are now up to multiple trips and multiple purchases to mail in multiple rebates that do have a limited time frame to do so.
On more than one occasion, having the copies of original receipt(s) was the only saving grace with Menard's rebate center that ONLY has slow mail contact. If I had to send in the rebate for just this one item (with backup copy) twice, besides my time, I would be losing money. Be like Walmart, Amazon, etc., and just give me the deal DELIVERED without the rebate nonsense that has been proven to be a profit maker for the seller and why they do it.
The conclusion is the same as the beginning.... Do whatever you want, buy whatever you want, because quite honestly, nobody cares.
Others should take note that Menards prints out rebate receipts in addition to the regular receipts and that you have about a month to collect all of your rebate receipts together and then send them all in at once - so just one stamp and one envelope for as many items as you bought there over the span of many weeks.
Fyi, i removed Cat and now it stays cleaner and i don't have to do this too often.
With a family member on the Porsche racing team and for decades, an Audi, VW, Porsche mechanic, I would be a bit concerned about checking/replacing the timing chain and tensioners on that 2.0 liter interference engine as basically 'normal' maintenance. Being an interference engine, should it jump a tooth, all hell is going to break loose.
Earlier Jetta, Golf and Bug were like Toyota that required timing belt replacement at 60,000 miles as normal maintenance. The difference is that many Toyota are non-interference engines, but the VW, Audi and Porsche are almost all interference. Here is a list [yourcarangel.com] for all manufactures... If you have an interference engine, do the maintenance.
Note: There was a class action suit won for timing chain tensioners on the Tiguan, but has to be a 100,000 miles are less. 60,000 miles was about the average for problems. Perhaps this was already done before you purchased, but if replaced with same OEM parts, it is past due.
Removing the Cat does allow the little turbo to breathe a little easier, but has little to do with the carbon build up on the intake valves. In fact, if you don't keep clean oil in it, the developed crankcase vapor from the turbo will carbon faster on the re-burn.
As well, it calls for Top Tier premium fuel, which means Chevron or better with detergent additives. Unless you are going to put in every tank full, 'liqui moly valve clean' is pretty much a waste of money. Better to buy better fuel with higher detergents. But, the OP every 5,000 miles or so, is just good maintenance for that GDI engine and change the oil somewhat often. While I and others think Sea Foam is also a decent product, that is a self proven opinion.
Like you have, anyone can buy a borescope that attaches to phone, laptop, etc. for $30 or so and know how whatever is working... or not working inside the cylinders. Get an IP67 version and use it for a lot of things, such as a plugged drain to see what is plugging it. Maintained, that little turbo 2.0 will last a long time. At now 150,000 miles, or 100,000 miles for you, I expect you have got your money's worth with basic or minimal maintenance. All European cars need a little love and they seem to respond well with longevity. Most, if not all of the complaints locally from normal drivers are from those that do little to nothing with extended oil changes because that is what the bottle says it is good for.