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Up to $1000 Bonus for new Capital One 360 saving account
Open a capital one savings account by 12/24 and fund the account in 15 days and have a party. You have to hold the fund for 90 days. APY 2.35% as we speak.
I guess this is similar to Ally bank doing 1% bonus deal, but Capital one has physical banks in North East and customer service is better than Ally Bank
Up to $1000 bonus based on your deposit amount.
https://www.capitalone.
I guess this is similar to Ally bank doing 1% bonus deal, but Capital one has physical banks in North East and customer service is better than Ally Bank
Up to $1000 bonus based on your deposit amount.
https://www.capitalone.
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DEPOSIT EARN
$10,000+ $100
$50,000+ $500
$100,000+ $1,000
"If you have or had an open 360 Performance Savings, 360 Savings, 360 Money Market, Savings Now or Confidence Savings account as a primary or secondary account holder with Capital One on or after January 1, 2019, you will be ineligible for the bonus."
So I opened money market back in 2017 and still active today, I guess I won't be getting the bonus… damn it
Your quotes on the 3M and 6M are wrong, most likely your broker skrewing you. I recommend IBKR if you want to buy bonds. You're better off buying the T-bills rather than putting money in this.
Capital one is a corporate. If I pick a corporate bond instead... Let's say this 94986RMK4 WFC Floating rate MTN maturing 12/28/22 BBB+ is yielding 13%... So, I'll re-iterate, you have to be brainless to lock up your money 90 days in a capital one money market for $100. Far better investments elsewhere.
That's what Capital One is doing. Getting your money and then investing in the vehicles you said 😁😁
This is not to compare I-bonds to this savings account. This is on top of my I-bond to park liquid cash for emergency fund. I had 12 months of expense saved for emergency cash and was getting 0.05% interest in my checking account which I am moving to savings with Capital One.
We can discuss hours and hours on different places to invest cash, but this is not an investment. This is liquid cash which I can pull out anytime without losing its principal value.
So please stick to the point. Suggest me some good HYSA with no catch( SOFI wants DD with their checking account) and also has physical branches and also offering such a great rate and I will be game !
I did I-bonds for the full amount for both me, my wife and my daughter for last year and then again in Jan 2022.
Are you saying that on top of that 20k each of bonds, I can also buy extra 10k bonds for each family member? And I can buy as a gift for my wife and daughter, and then in addition my wife can buy as a gift for me and or daughter?
My reply is... (profanity) Go (profanity).
Inflation is hitting us hard and fast. Putting our dollars in these vehicles is like putting our grown vegetables outside to rot or be eaten by insects. Giving your assets to the eaters will not increase your portfolio.
If you can use your assets to improve your productivity, that is the best investment. The next best is to buy now the things you will use later. It is not a good investment, but is is a safe one. Then think about things your neighbors will need and you can trade with them. This is not great, but better than nothing.
There is a similar offer for MM customers. Look into that. That offer is only for existing customers.
It might be targeted offer but no harm to call customer service and ask
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So which is best?
Assumptions:
- immediate transfers to maximize daily interest days
- Direct deposit requirement will be met for M&T and Chase to get full bonus
- Ally is your primary bank earning 2.35% interest regardless
- APY of 2.35% doesn't change from now until January
- Start exercise today get earliest end date for Chase to transfer back to Ally
- Run the exercise until May 24, 2023 (180 days is the minimum days to avoid early closure fee at M&T. If you open on Nov 25 to start the bonus, it'll go until this date).
- Chase will require $1800 to be kept in the account ($300 savings, $1500 checking) after 90 days to avoid fees and to allow the account to be passively idle.
- Downgrade the M&T account on Feb 1 to EZChoice checking so you can keep $0 at the bank and avoid fees.
- Close Chase account after 180 days from open, April 21.
Rough numbers, but if you do everything timed well, the numbers will be around this amount.Run the exercise with $15,000:
- i-Bond + Ally - $711* (includes Ally interest on $5000 because i-bond max is $10,000, * indicates your part or all of your money is stuck for at least 1 year)
- Chase - $642
- M&T - $571
- Ally CD - $434* (your money is stuck for a year)
- Ally Savings/MM - $356
- CapitalOne - $356 (this will be the same as Ally until you do this exercise with $50,001, which gets you more than the Ally max $500).
Run the same exercise above, but if you now only have $10,000 to play with:- i-Bond - $593*
- M&T - $504
- Ally CD - $289*
- Ally Savings/MM - $237
- CapitalOne - $237
- Chase - n/a (need $15,000 to play)
Run the same exercise above, but if you now only have $5,000 to play with:These numbers are extremely ideal, i.e. they assume instant transfers so I could maximize the number of interest-bearing days (as well as 5 day deposit time for bonuses). We all know bank transfers generally take 2 days and bonuses could take up to a month to arrive. So, I'd say deduct like $10-$20 or so from lost interest for Chase, M&T due to expected bank-transit-time.
Summary:
If you don't already have an i-bond and you have money you don't mind being unable to touch for a year, buy an i-bond now before October 28 (order will process on Oct 31).
If you already have an i-bond and have $15,000 to play with, the Chase deal is your best bet.
If you already have an i-bond and have $10,000 to play with, the M&T deal is your best bet.
If you already have an i-bond and have under $10,000 to play with and don't mind being unable to touch it for a year, a 3.25% APY Ally CD is your best bet. (Edit: just keep in mind that rates for savings and CD's are going up because the federal reserve is continuing to raise the benchmark interest rate. If they keep raising it the CD rate will continue to go up. So while the 3.25% 1 year CD sounds great, you'll feel pretty salty if it goes up more during the 1 year you are locked in. I personally don't think $24 is worth losing out on higher savings rate down the line.)
I would use this account just as a place to hold my cash... I will use my BofA account for every day use. So I would only transfer between accounts, never use a ATM.
I have penny pinched all my life, obtained some wealth and your are damn right I will go with highest or at least 3% (many options) and if I can not find anything wrong with the highest interest rate I would go with them... currently @3.11% from doing a simple google search.
So which is best?
Assumptions:
- immediate transfers to maximize daily interest days
- Direct deposit requirement will be met for M&T and Chase to get full bonus
- Ally is your primary bank earning 2.35% interest regardless
- APY of 2.35% doesn't change from now until January
- Start exercise today get earliest end date for Chase to transfer back to Ally
- Run the exercise until May 24, 2023 (180 days is the minimum days to avoid early closure fee at M&T. If you open on Nov 25 to start the bonus, it'll go until this date).
- Chase will require $1800 to be kept in the account ($300 savings, $1500 checking) after 90 days to avoid fees and to allow the account to be passively idle.
- Downgrade the M&T account on Feb 1 to EZChoice checking so you can keep $0 at the bank and avoid fees.
- Close Chase account after 180 days from open, April 21.
Rough numbers, but if you do everything timed well, the numbers will be around this amount.Run the exercise with $15,000:
- i-Bond + Ally - $711* (includes Ally interest on $5000 because i-bond max is $10,000, * indicates your part or all of your money is stuck for at least 1 year)
- Chase - $642
- M&T - $571
- Ally CD - $434* (your money is stuck for a year)
- Ally Savings/MM - $356
- CapitalOne - $356 (this will be the same as Ally until you do this exercise with $50,001, which gets you more than the Ally max $500).
Run the same exercise above, but if you now only have $10,000 to play with:- i-Bond - $593*
- M&T - $504
- Ally CD - $289*
- Ally Savings/MM - $237
- CapitalOne - $237
- Chase - n/a (need $15,000 to play)
Run the same exercise above, but if you now only have $5,000 to play with:These numbers are extremely ideal, i.e. they assume instant transfers so I could maximize the number of interest-bearing days (as well as 5 day deposit time for bonuses). We all know bank transfers generally take 2 days and bonuses could take up to a month to arrive. So, I'd say deduct like $10-$20 or so from lost interest for Chase, M&T due to expected bank-transit-time.
Summary:
If you don't already have an i-bond and you have money you don't mind being unable to touch for a year, buy an i-bond now before October 28 (order will process on Oct 31).
If you already have an i-bond and have $15,000 to play with, the Chase deal is your best bet.
If you already have an i-bond and have $10,000 to play with, the M&T deal is your best bet.
If you already have an i-bond and have under $10,000 to play with and don't mind being unable to touch it for a year, a 3.25% APY Ally CD is your best bet.
I suggest going with a high interest account and don't worry about these super small bonuses.
So which is best?
Assumptions:
- immediate transfers to maximize daily interest days
- Direct deposit requirement will be met for M&T and Chase to get full bonus
- Ally is your primary bank earning 2.35% interest regardless
- APY of 2.35% doesn't change from now until January
- Start exercise today get earliest end date for Chase to transfer back to Ally
- Run the exercise until May 24, 2023 (180 days is the minimum days to avoid early closure fee at M&T. If you open on Nov 25 to start the bonus, it'll go until this date).
- Chase will require $1800 to be kept in the account ($300 savings, $1500 checking) after 90 days to avoid fees and to allow the account to be passively idle.
- Downgrade the M&T account on Feb 1 to EZChoice checking so you can keep $0 at the bank and avoid fees.
- Close Chase account after 180 days from open, April 21.
Rough numbers, but if you do everything timed well, the numbers will be around this amount.Run the exercise with $15,000:
- i-Bond + Ally - $711* (includes Ally interest on $5000 because i-bond max is $10,000, * indicates your part or all of your money is stuck for at least 1 year)
- Chase - $642
- M&T - $571
- Ally CD - $434* (your money is stuck for a year)
- Ally Savings/MM - $356
- CapitalOne - $356 (this will be the same as Ally until you do this exercise with $50,001, which gets you more than the Ally max $500).
Run the same exercise above, but if you now only have $10,000 to play with:- i-Bond - $593*
- M&T - $504
- Ally CD - $289*
- Ally Savings/MM - $237
- CapitalOne - $237
- Chase - n/a (need $15,000 to play)
Run the same exercise above, but if you now only have $5,000 to play with:These numbers are extremely ideal, i.e. they assume instant transfers so I could maximize the number of interest-bearing days (as well as 5 day deposit time for bonuses). We all know bank transfers generally take 2 days and bonuses could take up to a month to arrive. So, I'd say deduct like $10-$20 or so from lost interest for Chase, M&T due to expected bank-transit-time.
Summary:
If you don't already have an i-bond and you have money you don't mind being unable to touch for a year, buy an i-bond now before October 28 (order will process on Oct 31).
If you already have an i-bond and have $15,000 to play with, the Chase deal is your best bet.
If you already have an i-bond and have $10,000 to play with, the M&T deal is your best bet.
If you already have an i-bond and have under $10,000 to play with and don't mind being unable to touch it for a year, a 3.25% APY Ally CD is your best bet.
I suggest going with a high interest account of at least 3% or higher and don't worry about these super small bonuses. The bonuses seem to be decent if you had direct deposit.
If you have 45k to park, I guess you will still get only $100 bonus. So ideal will be either 10k, 50k or 100k within 15 days of opening
Big deal if you lose $1000 which is practically imposible to lose 100% of your investment if it's a solid crypto like bitcoin eth cronos just to name a few.
Some of these cryptos will skyrocket and can easily make you $100,000 in just a couple of years.
But you gotta have some money in it to win it.
I personally have a ton of dot link ada doge cro and many more
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I suggest going with a high interest account and don't worry about these super small bonuses.
Most pushes from investment accounts should work. And by "push" it means you add the bank account at the other financial institution and push the money to the bank you want (Chase, M&T). The DD bonuses at Chase and M&T deposit within a couple days usually, so you'll know pretty quick if it worked or not.