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I'm already in the Milwaukee ecosystem so bought this wrench last month for $149 and thought it was a screaming deal.
My use case is strictly homeowner working on his own cars or light assembly.
Reviews[youtube.com] show it breaking bolts torqued to 600/ft lbs so unless you're a heavy line mechanic or need to work on farm equipment the 3/8 has plenty of power, is lighter and gets into tighter spaces. Lug nuts on passenger cars and trucks should be no challenge.
If you don't get batteries free from work (heh) be sure to get the lighter, more powerful High Output CP3.0[milwaukeetool.com] with 21,700 cells (defined by its 21mm x 70mm size.)
FWIW the M12 stubby goes for around the same, maybe a few bucks less, and is probably a better overall impact wrench than this for most DIY mechanics who only work on their own cars, because it's smaller and lighter, especially with batteries on, and you'll rarely come across a fastener that it can't handle, including lug and axle nuts and nearly all suspension fasteners. But for those times where it can't, and you don't feel like using a breaker bar with cheater pipe, then this would be a great backup wrench.
If you're only looking to do tire rotations, oil changes and the occasional brake pad/rotor replacement, then it doesn't really matter so might as well get this and be covered for basically all situations (on cars, not trucks). But if you're going to be doing a lot of wrenching, repairs, restoration, maintenance, etc., then you'll definitely appreciate and prefer the M12 stubby over this and basically anything. There's literally nothing out there of comparable power that's as small and light.
Depends on which sockets you have more of. But 3/8" will usually be more common and are thinner sockets overall. Torque Test Channel also found that the M18 3/8" mid torque makes more torque than the 1/2" version.
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Lug bolts are not seized, nor am I having difficulty removing them with a wrench by hand. What I'm saying is that after re-installing the bolts and torquing them to 110 ft lb this stubby cannot remove them (2555-20).
The vast majority of people have no problem removing lug nuts with an M12 stubby, so there must be something unique about your situation that is causing the problem. Might be adapters, cheap sockets, bad battery, wrong setting, or maybe you just got a lemon, but that wrench should normally be removing lug nuts quite easily.
The vast majority of people have no problem removing lug nuts with an M12 stubby, so there must be something unique about your situation that is causing the problem. Might be adapters, cheap sockets, bad battery, wrong setting, or maybe you just got a lemon, but that wrench should normally be removing lug nuts quite easily.
Tool came in sealed packaging from Home Depot. The only "unique" situation is that these are lug bolts not lug nuts. I don't see why that would make a difference.
Tool came in sealed packaging from Home Depot. The only "unique" situation is that these are lug bolts not lug nuts. I don't see why that would make a difference.
The Torque Test Channel on youtube measured the little M12 Stubby at something like 230 ft-lbs actual torque which should easily take care of a fastener tightened to 110 ft-lbs. Even my tiny Ridgid 3/8" subcompact can handle that job.
The wrench in general is more than capable, so there's something about your situation that is holding it back.
The Torque Test Channel on youtube measured the little M12 Stubby at something like 230 ft-lbs actual torque which should easily take care of a fastener tightened to 110 ft-lbs. Even my tiny Ridgid 3/8" subcompact can handle that job.
The wrench in general is more than capable, so there's something about your situation that is holding it back.
Lol ok…
To everyone out there reading this nonsense, please ignore the stubby and get at least the mid-torque to ensure you don't have a pricey paper weight.
Lol ok…
To everyone out there reading this nonsense, please ignore the stubby and get at least the mid-torque to ensure you don't have a pricey paper weight.
The M12 stubby is no joke. This guy[youtube.com] torqued a semi-truck lug to 260 ft-lbs and it was able to loosen it. That you can't remove fasteners that you torqued to only 110 ft-lbs points to something being wrong with your particular situation as that wrench should be more than capable of that task.
Lug bolts are not seized, nor am I having difficulty removing them with a wrench by hand. What I'm saying is that after re-installing the bolts and torquing them to 110 ft lb this stubby cannot remove them (2555-20).
Gotcha.
The stubby you listed is not the mid torque the op posted.
If you're not happy with the M12 stubby, return it and get a mid torque or a 2767? It's entirely possible that you got a defective tool. I does happen.
I love my stubby. It's torqued down and taken off 15/16 nuts. (ahem, ahem, using the chrome socket - no, I didn't do that, lol.) Trust me, I was wearing my safety glasses just in case....
Hopefully you got this from Home Depot and they have a 90 day return policy if you wish to return it. After all, it truly may be defective. I've seen what this impact can do on the Torque Test Channel on yt. It's a beast.
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My use case is strictly homeowner working on his own cars or light assembly.
Reviews [youtube.com] show it breaking bolts torqued to 600/ft lbs so unless you're a heavy line mechanic or need to work on farm equipment the 3/8 has plenty of power, is lighter and gets into tighter spaces. Lug nuts on passenger cars and trucks should be no challenge.
If you don't get batteries free from work (heh) be sure to get the lighter, more powerful High Output CP3.0 [milwaukeetool.com] with 21,700 cells (defined by its 21mm x 70mm size.)
Here's the slightly overbearing VCG Construction [youtube.com] guy to explain why.
If you're only looking to do tire rotations, oil changes and the occasional brake pad/rotor replacement, then it doesn't really matter so might as well get this and be covered for basically all situations (on cars, not trucks). But if you're going to be doing a lot of wrenching, repairs, restoration, maintenance, etc., then you'll definitely appreciate and prefer the M12 stubby over this and basically anything. There's literally nothing out there of comparable power that's as small and light.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Tool came in sealed packaging from Home Depot. The only "unique" situation is that these are lug bolts not lug nuts. I don't see why that would make a difference.
The wrench in general is more than capable, so there's something about your situation that is holding it back.
The wrench in general is more than capable, so there's something about your situation that is holding it back.
Lol ok…
To everyone out there reading this nonsense, please ignore the stubby and get at least the mid-torque to ensure you don't have a pricey paper weight.
To everyone out there reading this nonsense, please ignore the stubby and get at least the mid-torque to ensure you don't have a pricey paper weight.
The stubby you listed is not the mid torque the op posted.
If you're not happy with the M12 stubby, return it and get a mid torque or a 2767? It's entirely possible that you got a defective tool. I does happen.
I love my stubby. It's torqued down and taken off 15/16 nuts. (ahem, ahem, using the chrome socket - no, I didn't do that, lol.) Trust me, I was wearing my safety glasses just in case....
Hopefully you got this from Home Depot and they have a 90 day return policy if you wish to return it. After all, it truly may be defective. I've seen what this impact can do on the Torque Test Channel on yt. It's a beast.