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Price drop on every Tesla model - $49990
April 6, 2023 at
09:32 PM
in
Autos
Deal Details
Last Edited by jersharocks | Staff April 7, 2023 at 11:11 AM$49,990.00
Model 3 RWD $41990
Model 3 Performance Dual Motor AWD $52990
Model Y SR Dual Motor AWD $49990
Model Y LR Dual Motor AWD $52990
Model Y Performance Dual Motor AWD $56990
$5K off for Model S/X
$2K off for Model Y
$1K off for Model 3
Also, Model Y SR Dual Motor AWD can be customized for order.
https://www.tesla.com
Model 3 Performance Dual Motor AWD $52990
Model Y SR Dual Motor AWD $49990
Model Y LR Dual Motor AWD $52990
Model Y Performance Dual Motor AWD $56990
$5K off for Model S/X
$2K off for Model Y
$1K off for Model 3
Also, Model Y SR Dual Motor AWD can be customized for order.
https://www.tesla.com
1,742 Comments
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Or buy new
I would prefer real drop in price than the gimmick of 7500 credit as I don't qualify for the credit😃😀
I think you're on point with the 2 years out statement. EVs still being a "nascent" market has come to an end and we are on the cusp of seeing some really great options from multiple manufacturers. My oldest kid starts driving in 2 years so I'm hoping to see something that really looks intriguing before then.🤞
Yeah... EV is the best car for be drivers. It's 1 pedal driving is easy to learn and less chances of mistakes because the car brakes itself once you stop accelerating. I will only consider an EV (low cost EV) for my kid.
FWIW my Lexus had more from-the-factory problems than my Tesla did (and required more service visits during the first 5 years of ownership too). Not saying that's always the case of course, but the idea there's some massive # of substantive problems is simply not reflected in reality (one way to know this is checking Teslas warranty costs as a % compared to other car makers-- it's actually LOWER than average)
Another way is looking at owner satisfaction surveys, where Tesla reliably leads all brands. If they had massive fit/finish issues that would not be the case.
https://electrek.co/2022/06/15/te...-industry/
https://www.thedetroitb
https://insideevs.com/news/563605...isfact
We're not talking about every other car.. this is the Tesla board right now.. Aston Martin is 2 pages over.
Adding $ over the actual cost of the car is the only way he stays in business. That's what his actual job is- to get more from you than it cost his dealership to acquire it.
The only thing you are "haggling" with the dealer over is how MUCH extra $ you are going to pay him over the actual cost.
Why waste your time with that garbage compared to just paying the factory price to the maker of the actual car?
I pay 270 for 6 months coverage for my Leaf and my 7 seater ICE SUV. And that's without shipping for insurance in the last 5 to 6 years.
Only liability coverage though.
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Your paycheck deduction has nothing to do with the credit qualification at all
At the end of the year, based on your income, you will have some number that is the amount of tax you owe. This is NOT relevant to your paycheck deduction, that comes later. It's just "You earned X, you owe Y"
If you paid less than that amount via deductions, you owe more. If you paid more than that via payroll deductions you get a refund.
But the tax credit comes in BEFORE that step.
It reduces the amount you owe BEFORE they even look at what came out of your check.
As long as that # is $7500 (and it is if your taxable income was over $54,000 filing single, or about $65,000 filing jointly/married) then you get the full $7500 credit taken off.
THEN they look at your payroll deduction, and decide how much your refund (or still owing) is.
Being non-refundable only matters if you made so little income you didn't have $7500 in liability to begin with (and again, your payroll deductions have no relevance to that) in which case the credit would offset whatever amount of liability you DID have dollar for dollar.
Just to throw some easy #s in for an example.
Let's say you made exactly the taxable income needed to have $7500 in tax liability for the year.
And you had, say, $10,000 taken out of your paycheck via payroll deductions toward federal income tax.
In a normal year, with no tax credit to claim, you would get a refund for $2500. Which is the 10k they deducted, minus the $7500 you owe. $2500 refund.
WITH the tax credit, that goes against your original $7500 of liability. You now have $0 in liability.
NOW they look at the 10k deduction you had...and you get a refund of $10,000 since you owe net $0.
So again- the amount of your payroll deductions is irrelevant to being able to get the credit because they don't even look at that until after the credit was applied.
About the same here
https://www.texastribun
Meanwhile Texas seemingly loses power in large swaths with every winter ice storm. Maybe they should incessantly warn everyone like California does?
I buy my consumer products based on the politics of its owners. My toaster and I share the same ideology.
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Not true at all.