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expirediconian | Staff posted Jan 26, 2024 9:40 PM
Onkyo TX-NR6050 7.2-Channel AV Receiver
$299
$749
60% off
+ Free Shippingat Adorama
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+ Free Shippingat AdoramaDeal Details
Update: This popular deal is still available.
Adorama has Onkyo TX-NR6050 7.2-Channel 8K Network AV Receiver (TXNR6050M2BMDC) on sale for $299. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for finding this deal.
Product Features:
Adorama has Onkyo TX-NR6050 7.2-Channel 8K Network AV Receiver (TXNR6050M2BMDC) on sale for $299. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for finding this deal.
Product Features:
- 200 W/Ch Dynamic Audio Amplification system
- 5.2.2-ch Dolby Atmos and DTS:X playback
- Works with Hey Google or Alexa
- Stream over 5 GHz/2.4 GHz dual-band Wi-Fi supporting the 802.11ac standard
- HDMI Sub/Zone 2 Out for media transmission to a projector, gaming monitor, or TV
- Refined chassis, HDMI board, DAC, Digital/Analog inputs, power-amp grounds and power lines
- AccuEQ with AccuReflex and subwoofer EQ
Editor's Notes
Written by StrawMan86 | Staff- About this deal:
- This offer matches the previous Frontpage Deal.
- About this product:
- Onkyo 2 Year Limited Warranty
- Please see original post for additional details & give the WIKI and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion.
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Update: This popular deal is still available.
Adorama has Onkyo TX-NR6050 7.2-Channel 8K Network AV Receiver (TXNR6050M2BMDC) on sale for $299. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for finding this deal.
Product Features:
Adorama has Onkyo TX-NR6050 7.2-Channel 8K Network AV Receiver (TXNR6050M2BMDC) on sale for $299. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for finding this deal.
Product Features:
- 200 W/Ch Dynamic Audio Amplification system
- 5.2.2-ch Dolby Atmos and DTS:X playback
- Works with Hey Google or Alexa
- Stream over 5 GHz/2.4 GHz dual-band Wi-Fi supporting the 802.11ac standard
- HDMI Sub/Zone 2 Out for media transmission to a projector, gaming monitor, or TV
- Refined chassis, HDMI board, DAC, Digital/Analog inputs, power-amp grounds and power lines
- AccuEQ with AccuReflex and subwoofer EQ
Editor's Notes
Written by StrawMan86 | Staff- About this deal:
- This offer matches the previous Frontpage Deal.
- About this product:
- Onkyo 2 Year Limited Warranty
- Please see original post for additional details & give the WIKI and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion.
Community Voting
Deal Score
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Price Intelligence
Model: Onkyo TX-NR6050 7.2-Channel 8K Network AV Receiver
Deal History
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
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Top Comments
You said the ones that you can buy at Goodwill are just as good. How would they test it or even know what to look for? THAT is throwing away money. You also said that most of those lack HDMI, which is a biggie for most. Pass through and Audio Return Channel is a most for a reviver for audio/video. If you're just listening to music, then by all means get the Marantz from Goodwill.
I think you're forgetting that most people don't have the money or want to invest in a $800+ reciever. Shoot most probably don't even have great speakers which I'd argue that is just as important as a reciever. If you buy a $800 you need to get better speakers, a great subwoofer, professional set up, even setting it up yourself wouldn't take advantage of proper tuning.
You're arguing that people should "save a few hundred more" over a $300 AVR. That may make sense when you're talking a $1k+ AVR, but in this scenario you're basically talking about doubling the price of the unit (or at least 66% more). For someone who's looking at entry-ish level AVRs and they just want to step up from a soundbar for their HDMI TV, what you're talking about is ridiculous; $50 or $100 matters a lot to many people.
People buying this unit aren't spending a few thousand bucks on speakers, they're probably spending less than $500-$1000 or so total on speakers (at least initially). You're discussing room correction, where most people are more interested in the step from crappy soundbar to real 5.1 surround. Sure, Dirac Live can make a big improvement, but most people can get a bigger jump by going from TV speakers or soundbar to a real 5.1 surround setup.
As someone else mentioned, you're trying to sell people on a fancy luxury car ($1k AVR with $3k+ speakers) when they want a nice, practical every day car (modest AVR with fairly entry-level speakers) that's a step-up from the bicycle (TV speakers) or Vespa scooter (soundbar) that they've been using before. Don't recommend what you want; recommend what they want.
To that point, the thrift store and used market is another non-starter. In order to do that effectively, you have to know the brands, models, features, and be willing to do the research and investigation to find something that really does what you need and works and for a reasonable price. Fine for an audiophile, but not practical for someone who's never owned an AVR and is just dipping their toe in. They want the easy option. For someone in that boat, a decent priced, new, relatively featureful AVR, like this one, is going to be a much better option.
What you're selling is a Mercedes to a person who just wants to Corolla.
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148 Comments
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank cpc13
You're arguing that people should "save a few hundred more" over a $300 AVR. That may make sense when you're talking a $1k+ AVR, but in this scenario you're basically talking about doubling the price of the unit (or at least 66% more). For someone who's looking at entry-ish level AVRs and they just want to step up from a soundbar for their HDMI TV, what you're talking about is ridiculous; $50 or $100 matters a lot to many people.
People buying this unit aren't spending a few thousand bucks on speakers, they're probably spending less than $500-$1000 or so total on speakers (at least initially). You're discussing room correction, where most people are more interested in the step from crappy soundbar to real 5.1 surround. Sure, Dirac Live can make a big improvement, but most people can get a bigger jump by going from TV speakers or soundbar to a real 5.1 surround setup.
As someone else mentioned, you're trying to sell people on a fancy luxury car ($1k AVR with $3k+ speakers) when they want a nice, practical every day car (modest AVR with fairly entry-level speakers) that's a step-up from the bicycle (TV speakers) or Vespa scooter (soundbar) that they've been using before. Don't recommend what you want; recommend what they want.
To that point, the thrift store and used market is another non-starter. In order to do that effectively, you have to know the brands, models, features, and be willing to do the research and investigation to find something that really does what you need and works and for a reasonable price. Fine for an audiophile, but not practical for someone who's never owned an AVR and is just dipping their toe in. They want the easy option. For someone in that boat, a decent priced, new, relatively featureful AVR, like this one, is going to be a much better option.
Under powering speakers is more of an issue.
In a perfect world, if you fed a "flat" frequency sweep of 20hz to 20khz (the range of human hearing) into a speaker, you should hear a "flat" frequency sweep come out of the speaker at your seat. That very rarely happens in the real world. You'll usually wind up with a frequency response that looks like a theme park roller coaster with bass, treble, etc all over the place.
In a nutshell, the room EQ program guides through a process where you use the included mic (in the case of audyssey) to make about 8 sound measurements within a few feet of your main listening position. It then averages these measurements and uses digital equalization to reduce dips and peaks in the frequency response to give you the smoothest result, which should be the most accurate "sounding" when compared to the source (CD, etc).
Also, because a lot of people don't like "flat" frequency responses and prefer some added "spice" to their sound, such as goosed bass or more treble, you can now also use an app on a phone, tablet, or PC to tailor the frequency response line until you're happy with the result.
the speaker wattage is a recommendation from the manufacturer. in reality it has no bearing on the actual performance and will work with 1 watt or 1,000 watts.
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We get it. You're are anti- room equalization. Cool.
You can tune a system by ear better than any software designed by audio engineers. Noted 👍🏼🤣
That said, you're making some pretty bold assumptions there. Anti-room equalization? Not at all...but it's simply another tool in the toolkit, it won't magically make bad equipment sound good.
I think you're mistaking "equalized" sound with "sounding good". A flat response curve and perfectly even levels frequently sounds not very good to a lot of people, for various reasons. I'm not going to argue that point, it should be pretty obvious (similar to how lots of people like olives, and I think they're awful - I'm never going to convince people who love them that they're awful, and vice-versa).
Room EQ can measure the level of sound - not how good or bad it sounds to an individual. I'm willing to bet dollars to donuts I can sit in a room with this receiver and an otherwise-decent setup, and have it sounding "good" to me within a short bit (you know, just like people have been doing for several decades prior to this technology) and not think about it even once more after that. Could the room EQ make it "better"? I guess...but please define "better". "Better" may or may not actually sound better to me, you, or anyone else.
The bottom line here is really that "sound quality" is a highly-personal and individualized thing (you do know that ears and how they interpret are different on people, correct?). We can sit here and argue all day which setup/receiver/speakers sound better, or more accurate, or more lifelike or whatever you have it, but odds are we're never going to quite agree, and that's okay. Pepsi or Coke? (or Fanta, or Jolly Good, or any endless number of cola options...hopefully you get the drift here)
Under powering speakers is more of an issue.
I love car analogies...I used to use the comparison of the receiver as the engine, and the speaker as the vehicle. Semi engine in a Pinto vs. a Pinto engine in a semi...you get the drift (and most people understood that pretty easily as well!).
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Speakers draw power from an amplifier as you turn up the volume.
the speaker wattage is a recommendation from the manufacturer. in reality it has no bearing on the actual performance and will work with 1 watt or 1,000 watts.
One way I've always thought about this that may be helpful for people: you're much better to "over-power" a speaker vs. "under-power"...within reason. A 1,000-watt capable speaker will handle anything from 1-1,000w watts...but your 50w receiver will lose control of that speaker as it hits higher volume outputs, vs. a potential 2000w amplifier that could probably handle that 1,000w speaker at nearly full volume almost perfectly, since it's only operating at about 50% of its capacity.
That 50w amp at high volume on a 1,000w speaker is going to sound super sloppy with a lot of distortion.
If you want to use another bad analogy:
Take a 1,000-lb rock - now go push that rock and see how far you make it (this is the small amp-big speaker scenario).
Take a 100-lb. rock and do the same thing (this is the bigger amp, smaller speaker scenario).
If you really want to move that 1000-lb. rock, get a bulldozer.
He asked why his son's XBOX is not working with AVR to TV. Later I found that the XBOX HDMI is connected to one of the outputs.
And here the
Discussions are far detailed for most of the buyers. Topics touched are Room EQ, Speaker power, AVR wattage, Audyssey, REW, Aud XT32, system and so on.
speakers or a subwoofer.
Buy once. Cry once.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank cpc13
Details (a little surprised no one else called this out): Without getting too down in the weeds, amplifier power output is more complicated than just watts. The watts per channel is dependent on the impedance (resistance) of the speakers (in ohms, designated with Ω). Most speakers are 4-8Ω, although some can drop as low as 2Ω and higher can be found, usually on higher-end speakers. High and low impedance isn't a "good" or "bad" thing, but it's worth knowing that low impedance speakers typically require more power to drive them.
Most modern AVRs and amps can handle speakers in the range of 4Ω to 16Ω, so it's rare that you'll run into the problem where the speaker's impedance is lower than the amp can handle (which can damage an amp).
Now, when amps/AVRs can handle a range of impedance values, they do this by providing different levels of current at different impedances. To oversimplify, as the impedance drops, the amplifier's watts increase For advertising simplicity, though, a single number is typically advertised as the "power" for an AVR/Amp.
For almost all major companies and popular AVRs, the wattage is given for 8Ω impedance. I don't know why Adorama doesn't follow that for the lead info for this Amp, but it results in some misleading numbers. Specifically, the "200 watts per channel" is for lower impedance speakers, not the standard 8Ω.
Here's the actual technical specs from the Adorama details (also visible at the Onkyo product website):
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