Update: This popular deal is still available.
Adorama has
Onkyo TX-NR6050 7.2-Channel 8K Network AV Receiver (TXNR6050M2BMDC) on sale for
$299.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor
iconian for finding this deal.
Product Features:- 200 W/Ch Dynamic Audio Amplification system
- 5.2.2-ch Dolby Atmos and DTS:X playback
- Works with Hey Google or Alexa
- Stream over 5 GHz/2.4 GHz dual-band Wi-Fi supporting the 802.11ac standard
- HDMI Sub/Zone 2 Out for media transmission to a projector, gaming monitor, or TV
- Refined chassis, HDMI board, DAC, Digital/Analog inputs, power-amp grounds and power lines
- AccuEQ with AccuReflex and subwoofer EQ
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You said the ones that you can buy at Goodwill are just as good. How would they test it or even know what to look for? THAT is throwing away money. You also said that most of those lack HDMI, which is a biggie for most. Pass through and Audio Return Channel is a most for a reviver for audio/video. If you're just listening to music, then by all means get the Marantz from Goodwill.
I think you're forgetting that most people don't have the money or want to invest in a $800+ reciever. Shoot most probably don't even have great speakers which I'd argue that is just as important as a reciever. If you buy a $800 you need to get better speakers, a great subwoofer, professional set up, even setting it up yourself wouldn't take advantage of proper tuning.
You're arguing that people should "save a few hundred more" over a $300 AVR. That may make sense when you're talking a $1k+ AVR, but in this scenario you're basically talking about doubling the price of the unit (or at least 66% more). For someone who's looking at entry-ish level AVRs and they just want to step up from a soundbar for their HDMI TV, what you're talking about is ridiculous; $50 or $100 matters a lot to many people.
People buying this unit aren't spending a few thousand bucks on speakers, they're probably spending less than $500-$1000 or so total on speakers (at least initially). You're discussing room correction, where most people are more interested in the step from crappy soundbar to real 5.1 surround. Sure, Dirac Live can make a big improvement, but most people can get a bigger jump by going from TV speakers or soundbar to a real 5.1 surround setup.
As someone else mentioned, you're trying to sell people on a fancy luxury car ($1k AVR with $3k+ speakers) when they want a nice, practical every day car (modest AVR with fairly entry-level speakers) that's a step-up from the bicycle (TV speakers) or Vespa scooter (soundbar) that they've been using before. Don't recommend what you want; recommend what they want.
To that point, the thrift store and used market is another non-starter. In order to do that effectively, you have to know the brands, models, features, and be willing to do the research and investigation to find something that really does what you need and works and for a reasonable price. Fine for an audiophile, but not practical for someone who's never owned an AVR and is just dipping their toe in. They want the easy option. For someone in that boat, a decent priced, new, relatively featureful AVR, like this one, is going to be a much better option.
What you're selling is a Mercedes to a person who just wants to Corolla.
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Because I really like the remote that came with my TV. Its a Sony remote not a hisense.
Did you try setting up the AVR with the provided mic? Sometimes that checks and unlocks things that may have been set incorrectly. Like the phase, distance etc.
Home Theater is much the same or any kind of AV. Cheap AV experiences can make a person feel sick. Some of us such as myself have odd ear and vision issues so when it comes to, for example, room acoustics - a speaker fires sound like a cone (sorta, it's more like a mushroom cap) when speakers overlap or aim at each other or reflect off of walls it cancells out, creates new horrible sounds that echo in the room, delayed echos depending on frequency (speed of sound and frequency change in room acoustics) etc. So those of us more "in tune" with the experience end up really annoyed by all those quirks. Physically altering the room acoustics and speakers is extremely expensive and not actually doable in most spaces so software/DSP hardware processing chips are becoming more and more of a gamechanger in live concert sound and home theater than ever.
Don't get me wrong a mid-tier HiFi home theater setup that is 5.1 early 2000's style is a great setup on a budget. But as things get louder and you want more rumble and stuff the experience tends to get worse as you try to get more "lifelike" with a budget setup. Trust me I have a Boston Acoustics 7.1 setup circa 2007 with an Integra (Onkyo higher end) receiver and my brother has independent processors, amps, audiophile speakers - and I tell him it's a waste, just get a good receiver with modern tech because in general "it sounds wayyy better".
Trust that tech does make a gamechanging difference to those of us that have bad acoustic situations or demanding ears, the auto room calibration is a really great thing to use if the budget makes sense. Of course, some of the settings the Audyssee does can simply be set...in the settings of any digital surround sound reciever.....
This gets my vote for most pretentious analogy of the day. Bonus for not understanding what organic vs regular vegetables means as well. You obviously don't understand that, or grow your own vegetables.
I did run the mic setup. I set the woofer gain at halfway and it detects its there but even when it's running its tests it still is so low. I'm thrown for a loop. I am about to reconnect my old avr and just make sure like the sub didn't shit the bed somehow in the day it took for me to disconnect and reconnect. I'm fresh out of thoughts
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Speakers draw power from an amplifier as you turn up the volume.
When you see a rating on a speaker that says MAX 150 WATTS, that simply means that's the maximum they can draw from a hypothetical amp with endless power until they damage their voice coil (the thin wire that drives the cone).
Before giving people advice on audio equipment, it would be good if you understood how it works. From that statement you have no idea how speakers and amps work.
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Without knowing anything else it sounds like an impedance mismatch issue, or a hookup issue. I'd look at the ohm rating on your speakers and see what this amp can drive. It should be listed in the manual. If they are too mismatched, low volume is a symptom.
I would also recommend that you check with another subwoofer cable, use the other subwoofer out port on the receiver. Also, check your crossover settings - 80hz is a safe setting.
Plugging it into my old system with the same cable and it sounds exactly as expected, so I'm 99% sure the issue is that the Onkyo is not outputting the signal/volume/etc to the subwoofer as I would expect.
Plugging it into my old system with the same cable and it sounds exactly as expected, so I'm 99% sure the issue is that the Onkyo is not outputting the signal/volume/etc to the subwoofer as I would expect.
I'm glad I'm not the only one. It's getting very frustrating. Please if you find out anything, come back to this thread. I'll do the same.
I get flickering where the screen goes blank every couple minutes for a few seconds and comes back, but only with the Series X and RTX PC; PS5 works fine. Is there some setting I need to change on the device side or receiver side? (HDMI bandwidth, 4K signal type like YCbCr or RGB 8-/10-/12-bit etc.)
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It's a wild take to dismiss it.