| Product Description: | About Definitive Technology Demand D17
Save $1,998.00 in Instant Savings plus $1,548.00 in "Accessory Savings" when you buy this Definitive Technology Demand D17. This Value Bundle comes with a Definitive Technology Demand D17 Left, Definitive Technology Demand D17 Right, Definitive Technology Descend Subwoofer and a Definitive Technology Dymension DM10 and Shipping is free!
D17 Tower Speaker - Towering Audiophile Performance
D17 loudspeakers are the discerning listener's choice for smooth high-frequency reproduction, thundering lows, and three-dimensional imaging that fills your space with beautiful sound.
• Breathtaking Musicality: High Performance with a Powerful Presence and Full Frequency Response
• Smooth, Visceral Bass: Two Carbon Fiber Woofers, Two 10" Passive Radiators and a BDSS Midrange Woofer
• Precision Imaging: Laterally Offset Tweeters with 20/20 Wave Alignment Creates a Precise Soundstage
Flagship Performance
Breathtaking Musicality
D17 tower speakers are meticulously engineered with a laterally offset 1" annealed aluminum dome tweeter, a 6.5" BDSS midrange woofer, and dual 6.5" carbon fiber bass woofers complemented by dual 10" side-firing passive radiators for a full-range, breathtakingly musical sonic performance.
Proprietary Drivers for clean, detailed, balanced audio
Definitive Technology designed the drivers in the Demand Series to deliver a perfectly balanced, precise, musical sound.
Tweeters - Clear, Precise Highs
The D17 couples a laterally offset 1" Aluminum Dome Tweeter with our 20/20 Wave Alignment Lens. We offset the tweeters by 5 Degree , minimizing wave cancellations off the front baffle to deliver a more precise center stereo image and ensure clear, exacting high-frequency performance and detailed soundstage.
Midrange - Superior Midrange Detail
The D17's 6.5" patented Balanced Double Surround System (BDSS) mid/bass driver provides greater excursion and output for superior midrange detail and punchier bass compared with other drivers of similar size.
Woofers - Deeper, Cleaner Bass
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I drove my D15s with a separate amp rated 300watts@8ohms, 600+ damping factor and was impressed at the quality and quantity of bass coming out of a small, slim speaker with only 5" woofers. They sounded noticeable better than bi-amped with a Denon X7200wa rated at around 140-150watts@8ohms.
Some general amplifier info/tips for everyone:
An amp's wattage rating isn't the only spec to look at and isn't the most important in some cases. Look for an amp with a damping factor of 500 or more which is generally found in more powerful amps rated around 200watts@8ohms or more. Another amp spec that you want to look for is it's current output which is needed to drive low impedance speakers. An amp that is 2ohm stable will have a high enough current output for most speakers.
I haven't seen an AVR whose internal amps have a damping factor high enough for floorstanding speakers with multiple woofers.
A high damping factor gives the amp the ability to better control the speaker drivers and is needed for speakers with large and/or multiple woofers which most floorstanding speakers have.
Controlling the drivers means the amp is able to start and stop the driver cone quicker resulting in cleaner, tighter, more detailed bass.
My recommendation is to drive your front L/R speakers with a separate amp. This will take a significant load off of the AVR's internal amps and also free up more power for the surround speakers. A quality pro amp is the best "bang for your buck" or "watts per dollar" and most are 2ohm stable.
IMO, A good quality separate amp is a smart investment. It will more than pay for itself and save you $ in the long run....
1 - It will last you many years and be able to properly drive almost any speakers you get in the future.
2 - You'll be able to evaluate speakers accurately because they are being properly driven. You're less likely to keep chasing for better sounding speakers because most speakers sound kind of "bad" if not properly driven.
3 - Whatever speakers you have are gonna sound their best because they are being properly driven.
4 - Underdriving speakers (amp clipping/dirty power) is a surefire way to destroy a speaker.
4 - Any AVR you buy in the future having enough power isn't an issue and you can get one with just the features you need. You won't have to unnecessarily spend more $ for one with higher wattage output and that higher output still won't be able to properly drive most floorstanders.
Do some research so you spend your $ wisely...Take what I say with a grain of salt as you should with anything you see on the internet. On SD you need to take anything someone says with a pound of salt, too many trolls.
Passive radiators(drivers) is just to replace the port. They don't even have coils or electrical wire inside to make sound ......
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Passive radiators(drivers) is just to replace the port. They don't even have coils or electrical wire inside to make sound ......
I drove my D15s with a separate amp rated 300watts@8ohms, 600+ damping factor and was impressed at the quality and quantity of bass coming out of a small, slim speaker with only 5" woofers. They sounded noticeable better than bi-amped with a Denon X7200wa rated at around 140-150watts@8ohms.
Some general amplifier info/tips for everyone:
An amp's wattage rating isn't the only spec to look at and isn't the most important in some cases. Look for an amp with a damping factor of 500 or more which is generally found in more powerful amps rated around 200watts@8ohms or more. Another amp spec that you want to look for is it's current output which is needed to drive low impedance speakers. An amp that is 2ohm stable will have a high enough current output for most speakers.
I haven't seen an AVR whose internal amps have a damping factor high enough for floorstanding speakers with multiple woofers.
A high damping factor gives the amp the ability to better control the speaker drivers and is needed for speakers with large and/or multiple woofers which most floorstanding speakers have.
Controlling the drivers means the amp is able to start and stop the driver cone quicker resulting in cleaner, tighter, more detailed bass.
My recommendation is to drive your front L/R speakers with a separate amp. This will take a significant load off of the AVR's internal amps and also free up more power for the surround speakers. A quality pro amp is the best "bang for your buck" or "watts per dollar" and most are 2ohm stable.
IMO, A good quality separate amp is a smart investment. It will more than pay for itself and save you $ in the long run....
1 - It will last you many years and be able to properly drive almost any speakers you get in the future.
2 - You'll be able to evaluate speakers accurately because they are being properly driven. You're less likely to keep chasing for better sounding speakers because most speakers sound kind of "bad" if not properly driven.
3 - Whatever speakers you have are gonna sound their best because they are being properly driven.
4 - Underdriving speakers (amp clipping/dirty power) is a surefire way to destroy a speaker.
4 - Any AVR you buy in the future having enough power isn't an issue and you can get one with just the features you need. You won't have to unnecessarily spend more $ for one with higher wattage output and that higher output still won't be able to properly drive most floorstanders.
Do some research so you spend your $ wisely...Take what I say with a grain of salt as you should with anything you see on the internet. On SD you need to take anything someone says with a pound of salt, too many trolls.
I don't know which brand of current amps are good and can't really recommend one because I've been using a 2 channel pro amp for around 20 years. You'd have to do a little research on that. I use a Face Audio F500TS pro amp that sounds very good, it sounds better than a Crown class a/b pro amp and better than an Emotiva gen1 XPA-2 amp.
I recommend 2 channel separate amp to drive the front left/right speakers. This takes a significant load off of the avr's internal amps and frees up more power for the surround speakers.
Look for a separate amp rated around 200watts or more and has a damping factor of 500 or more. Most amps with a higher wattage rating will have a damping factor of at least 500 and some will also have a higher current output needed for driving low impedance speakers.
Damping factor is an important and often overlooked spec, it's what determines the ability of the amp to control (start and stop) the speaker drivers. A high damping factor is needed for speakers with large and/or multiple woofers which most floorstanding speakers have. High damping factor gives you more detailed, cleaner, tighter bass because of the amps ability to control (start and stop) the woofer drivers.
A pro amp is a good bang for your buck (watts per $) or a used home theater amp. You'll have to do a little research to see what works best for you.
An amp that has peaked my interest lately and that I'd like to try is the Class D Hypex Ncx500 or the Class D Purifi. People say that those amps have very good sound quality. They're also smaller, use less power and have a very high damping factor.
-Hope this helps.
Your own ears are the final determination that matters. Reviews and measurements give you general idea of how a speaker performs and might or "should" sound and if you want to audition it.
For Example: Most all good speaker designs have a flat frequency response. Take those multiple different speaker designs that are using different combinations of: 2-way, 3-way, soft dome, metal or ribbon tweeters, paper or carbon woofers, etc. Even though all these different speaker designs measure the same flat frequency response but some people will prefer one speaker's sound more than another.
I don't know which brand of current amps are good and can't really recommend one because I've been using a 2 channel pro amp for around 20 years. You'd have to do a little research on that. I use a Face Audio F500TS pro amp that sounds very good, it sounds better than a Crown class a/b pro amp and better than an Emotiva gen1 XPA-2 amp.
I recommend 2 channel separate amp to drive the front left/right speakers. This takes a significant load off of the avr's internal amps and frees up more power for the surround speakers.
Look for a separate amp rated around 200watts or more and has a damping factor of 500 or more. Most amps with a higher wattage rating will have a damping factor of at least 500 and some will also have a higher current output needed for driving low impedance speakers.
Damping factor is an important and often overlooked spec, it's what determines the ability of the amp to control (start and stop) the speaker drivers. A high damping factor is needed for speakers with large and/or multiple woofers which most floorstanding speakers have. High damping factor gives you more detailed, cleaner, tighter bass because of the amps ability to control (start and stop) the woofer drivers.
A pro amp is a good bang for your buck (watts per $) or a used home theater amp. You'll have to do a little research to see what works best for you.
An amp that has peaked my interest lately and that I'd like to try is the Class D Hypex Ncx500 or the Class D Purifi. People say that those amps have very good sound quality. They're also smaller, use less power and have a very high damping factor.
-Hope this helps.
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I drove my D15s with a separate amp rated 300watts@8ohms, 600+ damping factor and was impressed at the quality and quantity of bass coming out of a small, slim speaker with only 5" woofers. They sounded noticeable better than bi-amped with a Denon X7200wa rated at around 140-150watts@8ohms.
Some general amplifier info/tips for everyone:
An amp's wattage rating isn't the only spec to look at and isn't the most important in some cases. Look for an amp with a damping factor of 500 or more which is generally found in more powerful amps rated around 200watts@8ohms or more. Another amp spec that you want to look for is it's current output which is needed to drive low impedance speakers. An amp that is 2ohm stable will have a high enough current output for most speakers.
I haven't seen an AVR whose internal amps have a damping factor high enough for floorstanding speakers with multiple woofers.
A high damping factor gives the amp the ability to better control the speaker drivers and is needed for speakers with large and/or multiple woofers which most floorstanding speakers have.
Controlling the drivers means the amp is able to start and stop the driver cone quicker resulting in cleaner, tighter, more detailed bass.
My recommendation is to drive your front L/R speakers with a separate amp. This will take a significant load off of the AVR's internal amps and also free up more power for the surround speakers. A quality pro amp is the best "bang for your buck" or "watts per dollar" and most are 2ohm stable.
IMO, A good quality separate amp is a smart investment. It will more than pay for itself and save you $ in the long run....
1 - It will last you many years and be able to properly drive almost any speakers you get in the future.
2 - You'll be able to evaluate speakers accurately because they are being properly driven. You're less likely to keep chasing for better sounding speakers because most speakers sound kind of "bad" if not properly driven.
3 - Whatever speakers you have are gonna sound their best because they are being properly driven.
4 - Underdriving speakers (amp clipping/dirty power) is a surefire way to destroy a speaker.
4 - Any AVR you buy in the future having enough power isn't an issue and you can get one with just the features you need. You won't have to unnecessarily spend more $ for one with higher wattage output and that higher output still won't be able to properly drive most floorstanders.
Do some research so you spend your $ wisely...Take what I say with a grain of salt as you should with anything you see on the internet. On SD you need to take anything someone says with a pound of salt, too many trolls.
Leave a Comment