ANNKE [annke.com] has
2000W Nornvin N1400FB LiFePO4 Portable Power Station on sale for $679.99 -$280 w/ coupon code
Y18TYW879ZGE =
$399.99. Shipping is free.
Note:
Must apply coupon code at checkout to reach final price.
Details:- 1408Wh (44000mAh) LiFePO4 battery
- Output:
- 3 x AC110V/60Hz, 1500W continuous, 2000W peak
- 2 x USB-C: PD100W (5V3A/9V3A/12V3A/15V3A/20V3A/20V5A)
- 3 x USB-A 1: 5V2.4A;
- 1 x USB-A 2 (QC3.0): 5V3A/9V2A/12V1.5A (18W MAX)
- 2 x DC 12V
- Input/Charging:
- AC 1500W
- Car charging (12V10A)
- Solar charging (400W MAX 30V -60V, 15A MAX)
- 12W LED Indicator
- 14.17" x 10.62" x 10.94" (360x270x278mm)
- 42.54 lbs (19.3KG)
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16 Comments
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You need 2 panels in series at get it past 30v and if you wire 3 panels in series, sometimes it's beyond 60v so you're pretty much limited to 2 panels in series.
You need 2 panels in series at get it past 30v and if you wire 3 panels in series, sometimes it's beyond 60v so you're pretty much limited to 2 panels in series.
This is my system at home like I don't know what I'm talking about.
Yeah 2 panels in series "should" get you over the 30v for it to run but the problem is on cloudy days, 2 panels might not push the 2 panels past 30v for this to run.
So sure you can connect your 8 panels in 2 x 4 parallels but the entire system will hover around 32v-36v but again you are barely over the minimal requirements so when the voltage dip down, your entire system is useless.
Let not even talk about running too many panels in parallel will add up the AMPS, which will require thicker wire and run hotter.
When looking for a good power station, you need at a minimum 65v because most panels operate at 18v-22v which allows you to at least wire 3 in series.
The key to a good solar system is to run at higher voltage.
- Higher voltage means less amps meaning using thinner wires and run cooler.
- Not worry about the voltage dip down to a certain voltage for the system to run.
This is my system at home like I don't know what I'm talking about.
Yeah 2 panels in series "should" get you over the 30v for it to run but the problem is on cloudy days, 2 panels might not push the 2 panels past 30v for this to run.
So sure you can connect your 8 panels in 2 x 4 parallels but the entire system will hover around 32v-36v but again you are barely over the minimal requirements so when the voltage dip down, your entire system is useless.
Let not even talk about running too many panels in parallel will add up the AMPS, which will require thicker wire and run hotter.
When looking for a good power station, you need at a minimum 65v because most panels operate at 18v-22v which allows you to at least wire 3 in series.
The key to a good solar system is to run at higher voltage.
- Higher voltage means less amps meaning using thinner wires and run cooler.
- Not worry about the voltage dip down to a certain voltage for the system to run.
Look dude, in your defense, your system is a home setup and people dont buy these portable units to run there home like you are doing. They are much smaller setups and normally tie into an existing 12 or 24v systems usually on a vehicle or camper, or just a tent even to run 12v appliances or anything 12volt which they make a lot of 12v things but not a lot of 24v and above appliances. Most of these units don't even accept a ton of solar. 1000 watts of solar is on the very high end of what a portable solar generator can even handle with most being much less than that. This one for example shows it only charges at at 400watts of PV input. Strategies of wiring Mobile setups and home setups are very different. one huge advantage of keeping your system voltage low is the ease of tying into your 12 volt car system. I have a dc to dc charger than runs off my alternators 14volts or so and redirects 50amps of current to my leisure battery while im driving. I also have a solar charger and 400 watts of panels on my roof that continously send power to my batteries, or whenever theres sun rather. Every option i have to charge my batteries can be used at the same to charge my batteries faster. I also have an 80amp AC charger that when I'm plugged into shore power is also charging my leisure batteries This cannot be done if your setup is setup for more than a 12v setup. Mobile setups get a lot more complex in when everything is running at different voltages which are normally in increment of 12 volts. like 12, 24, 36, and 48. and the most common is 12 with 24v being next most common but 12 or 24v setup in a house setup isn't going to give the average user what they need. Your comparing apples to oranges when you compare your home setup to a small mobile setup.
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I have (8) 100W rigid panels made into 4 suitcases.. They can be set up as 2 units of 4 panels in the 2S2P configuration. I also have 2 extra 100W panels if needed.
If all else fails, I can start up my 7500W Tri-fuel generator on NG and plug it into the main panel in case of emergency.
Look dude, in your defense, your system is a home setup and people dont buy these portable units to run there home like you are doing. They are much smaller setups and normally tie into an existing 12 or 24v systems usually on a vehicle or camper, or just a tent even to run 12v appliances or anything 12volt which they make a lot of 12v things but not a lot of 24v and above appliances. Most of these units don't even accept a ton of solar. 1000 watts of solar is on the very high end of what a portable solar generator can even handle with most being much less than that. This one for example shows it only charges at at 400watts of PV input. Strategies of wiring Mobile setups and home setups are very different. one huge advantage of keeping your system voltage low is the ease of tying into your 12 volt car system. I have a dc to dc charger than runs off my alternators 14volts or so and redirects 50amps of current to my leisure battery while im driving. I also have a solar charger and 400 watts of panels on my roof that continously send power to my batteries, or whenever theres sun rather. Every option i have to charge my batteries can be used at the same to charge my batteries faster. I also have an 80amp AC charger that when I'm plugged into shore power is also charging my leisure batteries This cannot be done if your setup is setup for more than a 12v setup. Mobile setups get a lot more complex in when everything is running at different voltages which are normally in increment of 12 volts. like 12, 24, 36, and 48. and the most common is 12 with 24v being next most common but 12 or 24v setup in a house setup isn't going to give the average user what they need. Your comparing apples to oranges when you compare your home setup to a small mobile setup.
After reading your first sentence, I realize how clueless you are.
Amps is the biggest factor of wire sizing, not wattage.
Just look at household items with the tiny wires even though some runs at 1500 watts. It's because they are running at 110v at less than 15 amps.
- You can have 4 panels running in series at 80v producing 5 amps = 400w but only needing wires capable of handling 5 amps.
- Versus 4 panels in parallels at 20v producing 20 amps = the same 400w but needing thicker wires for the 20 amps.
I'll stop here. I actually have several solar systems that I run 24/7. No need to argue with keyboard know it all.
After reading your first sentence, I realize how clueless you are.
Amps is the biggest factor of wire sizing, not wattage.
Just look at household items with the tiny wires even though some runs at 1500 watts. It's because they are running at 110v at less than 15 amps.
- You can have 4 panels running in series at 80v producing 5 amps = 400w but only needing wires capable of handling 5 amps.
- Versus 4 panels in parallels at 20v producing 20 amps = the same 400w but needing thicker wires for the 20 amps.
I'll stop here. I actually have several solar systems that I run 24/7. No need to argue with keyboard know it all.
Sure this has flaws but it's a ton of value for $400.
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Sure this has flaws but it's a ton of value for $400.
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