Update: This popular deal is still available, now at the lower price of $8.99.
RONGDAXING TECH via Amazon has for Prime Members: Lvetek Wall Outlet Surge Protecter w/ USB Ports (3x USB-A, 1x USB-C) on sale for $9.98 > Now: $8.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member Leo.10 for sharing this deal.
About this product:
Multi-plug wall outlet extender has 5 outlets, plus 4 USB Ports
USB charges 5V 4.2A shared rating
USB A port up to 2.4A
USB C port up to 3A MAX
1680 joules surge protector
3 complementary Surge Protection Circuits, TVS(transient voltage suppressor) MOV(metal oxide varistor) GDT(gas discharge tube) combined with fire-resistant casing (up to 1382℉)
Can secure it on duplex outlet with screw included
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Many arguments exist about whether UL or ETL is "better," but they are both certified testing laboratories and confirm that a product meets certain standards. (the big difference is that UL actually writes those standards, whereas ETL tends to just use them for testing)
Important extract from the above webpage:
"Current taps with class 2 power unit, Model Nos. ...QF-519F..."
"A representative sample of the listed devices have been tested, investigated and found to comply with the requirements of the Standard(s) for Current Taps & Adapters (UL-498A) and are identified with the ETL Listed Mark."
Of course, all of that is assuming that the brand/model listed is genuine (fake products are fake, after all!), but that's always an issue, so YMMV.
The listed rating is 1875W. So, theoretically, you should be able to connect a 1500W heater along with a few other small devices, but take a look a the power consumpion of those devices. Even USB devices (like phones) can draw 50-100W these days.
One thing to note in the listing is that all of the USB ports are limited to 5V only, so no quick charging is supported. From the Amazon listing:
"USB Port Output: DC 5V, Total 4.8A (although this picture shows 4.2A max)
The UCB-C port doesn't support any other devices which need 9~22V charging voltage."
It's just a USB charger. There's no magic circuitry.
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Not sure how you tested yours but mine charges my Samsung phone at 10w (2A), Chromebook at 12W (2.4A), and iPad at 5w, per my test with a cable that has proven to be accurate with my other chargers. I am guessing your 1.46A could be a result of the device you used negotiated at DCP protocol which limits to 1.5A.
I will probably return mine though, as I saw someone else posted a link with 6 outlets rather than 5.
Quote
from obend
:
Got mine tested - confirmed: piece of junk.
Each USB A provided 1.46A max. Only one, did not test 2 or 3 at the same time.
Type-C provided only 1.46A max also.
I will return it tomorrow. I have plenty of PD chargers at home.will continue to use 6 outlet splitter from Dollar Tree and PD chargers.
Why do these things block the second outlet or not utilize it at all?
Because typically the top and bottom outlets are ganged together, so you don't need to plug into both.
Also some plugs can be split on the side screw terminals so that top and bottom can be different circuits, and you wouldn't want to plug something into both that would join them back together.
My outlet has screws on the top and bottom instead of the middle. Anyone know if something like this exists for my use case? I'm in an apartment so I can't go around switching the outlets.
I have several of these and they work fine so far. Be advised these cheap devices have ragged DC power but not sure if it affects the devices plugged into them.
Best take the cover off one and post a picture in this thread. Some of these have 2-3 very small parts inside. Also, if you have heavy use of these on a non GFCI or non-arc fault circuit, you may want to consider a heavier duty unit.
I bought a couple but going to return after going back and examining reviews more closely. Poor internal design could lead to shorts. Not exactly something to go "cheap" on.
I received mine today. Got a Returned Item. Box was ripped on the opening and the tape was obviously already opened before. The product was also scratched and damaged on the usb outlets, showing evidence of use.
Also just tested it, and the USB C is very slow charging.
These cheap products are all "ETL Listed" but I've looked them up and usually they are listed under ETL as "current taps."
A true surge protector will be listed as a Surge Protective Device (SPD) or formerly, Transient Voltage Surge Suppressor device (TVSS).
So it is very misleading and I would not support a business with such shady practices. You are not getting the protection you think you are.
If I understand the UL listings on various products, I believe that a device may bear the UL mark for "Energy Efficiency" but not pass UL "safety". I don't know how to distinguish without going to the UL site catalog and searching for the product. If my understanding is correct, then UL is leaving this open to confusion for the general population (including me).
Any reason why these multi port outlets only use one outlet on the back? I feel like it would be better to not overload one of the sockets. Plus it would give it more stability and structure on the back. Just seems like a way to cheap out.
You realize entire rooms are on the same circuit. Do you honestly think each wall plug runs back to the fuse panel with 10 gauge wire? 🤣
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It is advertised as being ETL certified, which is an NRTL (like UL) that is run by ITS.
https://www.osha.gov/nationally-r...rogram/its
https://www.osha.gov/nationally-r...rogram/ul/
Many arguments exist about whether UL or ETL is "better," but they are both certified testing laboratories and confirm that a product meets certain standards. (the big difference is that UL actually writes those standards, whereas ETL tends to just use them for testing)
Checking ETL's site, this brand/model is listed in the pictures (Lvetek QF-519F):
https://ramuk.intertekc
Important extract from the above webpage:
"Current taps with class 2 power unit, Model Nos. ...QF-519F..."
"A representative sample of the listed devices have been tested, investigated and found to comply with the requirements of the Standard(s) for Current Taps & Adapters (UL-498A) and are identified with the ETL Listed Mark."
Of course, all of that is assuming that the brand/model listed is genuine (fake products are fake, after all!), but that's always an issue, so YMMV.
One thing to note in the listing is that all of the USB ports are limited to 5V only, so no quick charging is supported. From the Amazon listing:
"USB Port Output: DC 5V, Total 4.8A (although this picture shows 4.2A max)
The UCB-C port doesn't support any other devices which need 9~22V charging voltage."
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I will probably return mine though, as I saw someone else posted a link with 6 outlets rather than 5.
Each USB A provided 1.46A max. Only one, did not test 2 or 3 at the same time.
Type-C provided only 1.46A max also.
I will return it tomorrow. I have plenty of PD chargers at home.will continue to use 6 outlet splitter from Dollar Tree and PD chargers.
Also some plugs can be split on the side screw terminals so that top and bottom can be different circuits, and you wouldn't want to plug something into both that would join them back together.
No way, I only trust Lvetek. I'd never use a Qinlianf! 🤣
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082TQ3KB5
Strong velco tape would also probably work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BNPX3XJ/
Best take the cover off one and post a picture in this thread. Some of these have 2-3 very small parts inside. Also, if you have heavy use of these on a non GFCI or non-arc fault circuit, you may want to consider a heavier duty unit.
https://homeinspectioni
https://en.wikipedia.or
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Also just tested it, and the USB C is very slow charging.
A true surge protector will be listed as a Surge Protective Device (SPD) or formerly, Transient Voltage Surge Suppressor device (TVSS).
So it is very misleading and I would not support a business with such shady practices. You are not getting the protection you think you are.
A true surge protector will be listed as a Surge Protective Device (SPD) or formerly, Transient Voltage Surge Suppressor device (TVSS).
So it is very misleading and I would not support a business with such shady practices. You are not getting the protection you think you are.
You realize entire rooms are on the same circuit. Do you honestly think each wall plug runs back to the fuse panel with 10 gauge wire? 🤣