Original Post
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Edited April 1, 2024
at 12:08 PM
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Various MRCOOL DIY Minisplit sale at Costco with F/S - (12k BTU - $1249, 18k BTU - 1699, 24k BTU - $1999)
MRCOOL E Star DIY 4th Gen 12k BTU Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump Complete System 115V/60 Hz
https://www.costco.com/.product.4000043469.html
$1249
MRCOOL E Star DIY 4th Gen 18k BTU Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump Complete System 208-230V/60Hz
https://www.costco.com/.product.4000043443.html
$1699
MRCOOL E Star DIY 4th Gen 24k BTU Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump Complete System 208-230V/60Hz
https://www.costco.com/.product.4000040670.html
$1999
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I nearly bought the DIY unit so I wouldn't have to mess with a vacuum, but now I'm glad I went that route to save money and learn along the way. You got this!
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
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Edit: First image host looked awful, I'm trying a different one. I hope it is better quality.
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For those wondering why I ran parallel conduits out of the junction box, I ran an extra two circuits for a future EV charger or welder in the lower pipe. I don't like doing things twice, and future-proofing is sometimes a good move.
Great post... Gives a potential DIYer an idea of what the job may entail
Now they're realizing they have to adapt and learn the trade versus the easy way out... the DIY systems are becoming more and more reliable.
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Installation was straightforward and I was glad I didn't need to fuss with a vacuum. Just common household tools. I didn't use an HVAC torque wrench, but have some idea of torque feels like. The hose is quite long, but allowed me to mount it more centrally and run it down the inside of the wall, through the crawlspace, then out. It's going to be too long if you mount it on an exterior wall.
That's crazy because I've had a 4 zone 36k heating and cooling my uninsulated 100 year old house for 3 years now and I would consider that pretty serious. I will say by the nature of how they work I would still stick with central in larger homes as my previous home would have needed like 12 heads because all the different rooms. Other than that limitation these are so far superior to central it's not even close. If I had to do it again I'd probably just get one cheaper that you pull vacuum on because they have raised the price of these particular units significantly in the past few years.
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The customer got a unit and within 6 months it was showing a leaky compressor it took them 6 weeks of daily email to send a replacement compressor which the customer was charged to $280 for shipping the "free" part, the cost of a Mitsubishi replacement compressor is $288+ship, the customer needs to braze new parts in and buy new r410a refrigerant, not cheap/fast.
A non DIY system is the way to go, the tools are $200 total on Amazon and you get a product the manufacturer is far more confident in.
The customer got a unit and within 6 months it was showing a leaky compressor it took them 6 weeks of daily email to send a replacement compressor which the customer was charged to $280 for shipping the "free" part, the cost of a Mitsubishi replacement compressor is $288+ship, the customer needs to braze new parts in and buy new r410a refrigerant, not cheap/fast.
A non DIY system is the way to go, the tools are $200 total on Amazon and you get a product the manufacturer is far more confident in.
Or shipping of parts. Just saying.
Or shipping of parts. Just saying.
I think OP was suggesting people DIY the non-DIY labeled models by investing in a few HVAC tools. Not suggesting people pay someone to install the non-DIY version.
Now they're realizing they have to adapt and learn the trade versus the easy way out... the DIY systems are becoming more and more reliable.
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