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Tubeless ready 27mm Double Wall CL bike Wheelset 32H Disc Brake, QR, 12 speed hub, all sizes - $125 from Amazon
$125.99
Sold and shipped by Amazon. It is Pasak branded, rims are 27mm wide, tubeless ready, drilled for Schrader. 100mm front, 135mm rear, 6 pawls freehub, centerlock. End cups are replaceable for true axle use. The hub is for 12 speed cassettes and comes with a spacer for 11. The rim looks like a copy of Alex Rims DP27 drilled for Schrader. I've got a set and was able to mount a tubeless tire with Presta valve no problems. Hubs are similar to nova tech, the brand is all over Ali and parts are plentiful. 26, 27.5, 29 sizes are available
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CXP9MQLC?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CXP9MQLC?th=1
Created 04-05-2024
at 09:52 AM
by Banana_Fly
in
Bicycles & Bike Accessories
(5)
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Huh? Canyon 5 MTB comes with QR, like 90% of sub-$1000 bikes do. Trek Marin 8 for $999 on sale is QR 100/135. The list is endless. Trek starts TA only with Roscoe 6 which is $1199. Marin bikes under $800 are all QR, and I believe it is the lowest point for TA, Polygon starts TA with Strada 7 for $900+. This wheelset is not for $3000 Kona MTB owners, it is for guys with cheap or older bikes who want to go tubeless buying direct from Amazon. Like I said end cups convert it into 12 or 15 mm TA, they are easily removable.
I'd like to buy an MTB bike for less than $700 that has true axles
The contrary, most wheelsets on cheap bikes are really mediocre to even bad, so having an affordable option to replace them is good.
What ppl should note is that these are "centerlock" disc hubs, made for center-lock rotors. The majority of cheap bikes are typically with 6-bolt rotors.
There are relatively cheap adaptors to make 6-bolt rotors compatible with centerlock, but you need to plan ahead and order a couple of those if you plan on using that wheelset with your existing 6-bolt rotors, or budget for centerlock rotors ontop of the wheels.
Also your bike has a Shimano Microspline (MS) freehub to accommodate the 12s Shimano M6100 cassette. You cannot get this wheelset that has the older, HG freehub standard to work with that. Bikes are not "crazy" complicated, but things do need to match or "upgrading" can be a can of worms. Do ask before you buy!
Going tubeless is an upgrade though, very clear one in my book, but will require some up-keep: every few months you should check and refill some of the sealant and whatnot. If initial setup is ~4oz per tire, maybe you will need 2oz added every 3-4mo or so.
Depends on the climate you are riding and storing the bike (heat and humidity really), but that's a good rule of thumb. Punctures that you might notice or not, might accelerate that.
Note that the tires that are stock with the Grand Canyon, the Schwalbe Rapid Rob 2.25'', are not tubeless ready : those are meant to be used with tubes. You might have success mounting them tubeless, but run @ your own risk.
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Actually I have that bike and rims look like a copy of these except drilled for Presta. I had big issues going tubeless on Canyon 5 due to their bad rim joints leaking sealant, but fixed it by tightening the spokes. After that they are solid and hold air nicely. These look like very comparable wheels to Canyon 5, so don't think you will benefit
Also your bike has a Shimano Microspline (MS) freehub to accommodate the 12s Shimano M6100 cassette. You cannot get this wheelset that has the older, HG freehub standard to work with that. Bikes are not "crazy" complicated, but things do need to match or "upgrading" can be a can of worms. Do ask before you buy!
Going tubeless is an upgrade though, very clear one in my book, but will require some up-keep: every few months you should check and refill some of the sealant and whatnot. If initial setup is ~4oz per tire, maybe you will need 2oz added every 3-4mo or so.
Depends on the climate you are riding and storing the bike (heat and humidity really), but that's a good rule of thumb. Punctures that you might notice or not, might accelerate that.
Note that the tires that are stock with the Grand Canyon, the Schwalbe Rapid Rob 2.25'', are not tubeless ready : those are meant to be used with tubes. You might have success mounting them tubeless, but run @ your own risk.
If you have issues with sealant coming through the rim, the solution should come with an extra layer of rim tape (but no more than 3 layers, or you might have issues fitting the tires).
Do not mess with tensioning or de-tentioning your spokes for this, there is no relation.
Do not mess with tensioning or de-tentioning your spokes for this, there is no relation.
There is a lot of relation, tightening the spokes with a tension meter and truing the wheel made the leak disappear. More tension=tighter rim, so joint gap goes to minimum. Grand Canyon 5 uses alexrim Iridium DP23 with pinned joint, Ive wasted tons of tape multiple layers trying to seal it. Spokes were on the minimum acceptable tension from factory.