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Edited April 21, 2024
at 08:01 AM
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Hyundai is offering Ioniq 5 SEL AWD 2 year lease for $225 per month and $225 down in Colorado. States without additional EV tax credit will likely be a little higher but you can probably talk them down even more. I got them down to $6k total price for a 2 year lease including all taxes and fees as well as an additional $2k of no charge options/accessories or protection/warranty plans. I also had a quote for a RWD for $4300 all-in.
They really seem to be desperate to get rid of them. I got to the point in negotiating that they literally couldn't lower the price of the car anymore because it made the residual higher than what I would owe on the car which meant Hyundai would've had to pay me to lease the car, which is how I ended up with the extra $2k in options. It also includes 2 free years of charging on the Electrify America network.
The Hyundai website says the offer ends April 30, but I'm guessing they will extend it.
Edit to add copy of final paperwork numbers. Deal was at Schomp Hyundai in Denver but had similar offers from Phil Long Hyundai Chapel Hills in Colorado Springs and McDonald Hyundai in Denver.
https://www.hyundaiusa.com/us/en/...Type=Lease
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As for leasing, I don't think it's comparable to renting a home. Cars are depreciating assets while real estate are appreciating assets. When you lease a vehicle, especially at an amazing price like this, you're being shielded from depreciation and at the end of 2 years you might even come out on top. Also, leasing is very handy when it comes to cars that breakdown frequently like the European cars. This is why almost all European cars are leased, not purchased, since all breakdowns during the lease term are covered and European cars are worth less than 50% after 3 years when their warranty is up.
Many parts of the USA are definitely depreciating in value outside of large Metro cities though. That's just how it goes without upkeep.
I didn't cut into anything. I answered a question someone else asked without my having said anything to that person.
They were, in fact, replying to ANOTHER poster- and asked, specifically, about Tesla leases.
Only after they asked that did I link to Tesla leasing info to answer their question.
You can see the post to which I first replied here-
https://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=
Why do you keep making up false claims anybody can check by scrolling back a couple pages, in order to keep being SUPER FURIOUS about something that has nothing to do you with, and didn't involve you in any way?
It's very weird.
Why are you posting none existing lease deals?
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Where was this offer provided?? City and state??
Denver, CO
My understanding of leases (and I'm definitely not an expert) is that if you total the car, the insurance covers the buyout plus whatever you still owe on the lease and basically writes a check to the dealer and ends your lease… if you want the same car, you have to sign a brand new lease. So, in that situation, you basically lose your entire downpayment you put on the totaled car. I like the idea of paying up front and having little to no monthly payment, but isn't that a lot of risk (especially early in the lease)? For that reason, I've always put zero down and taken the higher monthly payments.
I've seen a few people say this so I got curious and dug into the terms. It turns out (for my lease at least, no idea if this is common practice or not), as long as the car is worth more than the "adjusted lease balance" (which is always less than the residual - i.e. what they expect the car to be worth at the end of the lease), they will pro-rate the credit to you based on how much of your lease has elapsed.
For example, my adjusted lease balance right now is about $35k. MSRP of the car was $54k so let's assume it's worth $45k now and I total it today. Insurance pays them $45k which is $10k over the adjusted lease balance so I am entitled to a credit. They calculate what I'm owed based on the number of full months left in the lease (so 23). I would get my initial payment (excluding tax) times 23/24 so $4388 x 23/24= $4205 minus the $400 turn in fee and I get a check for $3805.
So not ideal but I think it ends up being basically the same as the monthly payment option. I think what really saves me here is the huge tax credit that pretty much ensures the car will be worth enough that I get the full credit. If I had paid $20k for the lease and the car was only worth $10k more than the adjusted lease balance, I'd be stuck with $10k.
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