RETIRED: Marlboro Outwit the West Funny Farm

That's the advantage of using Sterilite/Rubbermaid containers - you can get them tall, and cut the access hole high enough up to fill them deep. We generally run 4" or so of litter.

I used to use Rubbermaid containers, but the bottoms aren't smooth, nor are the corners, so scooping them was a pita. Sterilites, while cheaper plastic, have flatter bottoms and smoothly rounded corners, easier to clean. And cheap enough ($10-15) that they can be replaced every 2-3 years without breaking the bank.

I haven't tried the kits, but they should work fine, as long as you use a low speed drill.

I have "sanded" out several eBay taillights with scratches by hand. It's a lot of work, and you will hurt afterwards, but all you do is get some washcloths, white vinegar, and cream of tartar. Mix the vinegar/tartar to a thick slurry, put it on the towel, and rub the headlight HARD in very small/fast circles (you're trying to build up a tiny bit of heat, but not too much). Add more slurry, and sometimes vinegar as the old dries out. Rinse and wipe dry every once in a while to check progress. You can also try baking soda/water with a drop of dish soap if you can't find cream of tartar cheaply enough (I bought a pound of it online years ago, as the vinegar/tartar mix is a good ceramic stove top cleaner), but if you do, rub lightly at first and rinse/dry after a few swipes to see if it hazes, as baking soda brands tend to vary on their particle size/abrasiveness.

It's less abrasive than rubbing or polishing compound, and safe for the environment. You can also get a drill mounted buffing/waxing pad and take the pain out of your hands/arms, but an afternoon of rubbing and a day of muscle pain is worth it. I have worn down some pretty serious scrapes on taillights this way. Deep ones can't be fully removed, but can be smoothed to the point they're not so visible. Simple haze is pretty easy to polish down this way (in fact, I need to do both of our cars' headlights soon, they're starting to haze finally).

Don't know what happened. but one thing for sure, I cannot get the game to open on that new coffee game on either computer. The K-cups. I get the opening, the woman with the crown talking and then keeps saying game loading. Never does. Both computers cannot be at fault. Has anyone of us won anything on the Mt. Dew yet?

I got kicked off here...

Im still going for the fridge. Nothing else I really need except maybe the leather jacket. My sister is going for weekly and daily prizes. I havent heard of anyone winning. Im starting to think they will announc the winners when the game is over

Maybe. I thought that light in the new room was kinda cute. Started playing for that. did you see my note earlier today that most of the winners on the 100 sunny days are from florida and Ohio. I thought with all the states that was strange. Just coincidence?

Open Chrome or IE on the desktop, make sure they can access pages. (If you haven't installed Chrome yet, do it, it's handy to have for tests like this, and is an easy install - it will also import all your FF bookmarks during install if you want).

Shut down FF and restart it. If the windows are still blank, hold down the shift key and click the Reload button, a Shift-Reload makes FF re-request ALL content from the servers, and usually works when a simple Reload doesn't.

Otherwise, you could always remove FF and reinstall it, it keeps the personal data around unless you specifically tell it to delete it when uninstalling.

Offer your daughter!!! Plumbers make great money!!!
Have 3 step brothers that are plumbers!!!

off topic do you have an opinion on stuff like this

https://www.tryfastbrite.com/?rtag=buyfastbrite&
this has been on TV a lot lately
my lights need cleaning 98'Lincoln MK VII
I don't want to ruin them, they can't be replaced unless you can find them in a bone yard.
I was gonna get Meguiars
http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G1900

3M has one too, but it requires sanding
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/porta...6TW45KZBbl

I knew you would know this

my lights are hazed pretty bad, I'll give it a try
I have an orbital buffer, it runs slow do you think it would work

I shut the computer down and when I restarted it was ok. I just printed your instructions to save but I had to print the whole page, not just your response. Printed about 8 pgs - is there a way to just print one post so I do not waste ink and paper?

Cwhetme
Wished they lived closer than MO. Husband was a stationary engineer and knew lots of tradesmen, never had to look for help. After he died, they drifted away despite "if there's ever any thing I can do". As such, I never developed a "rolodex" of professional help over the years. Now it pretty much tossing the dart.

Gary
Those polish/buffing agents look like they work on the same premise as CD refinishers. FastBrite isn't too expensive. Maybe try it on a boneyard headlite and see if it works before possibly making yours worse.

Yeah, most orbital buffers are made for waxing/polishing without burning through the paint, so it will probably work, but just run it for a couple seconds, clean and check to see how it works before laying into it. Of course with an orbital buffer, you do not want push hard, it shuts down the orbital process, just let the weight of the buffer do the work. And tape off the rest of the area if you can, so that the buffer doesn't keep rubbing the surrounding area over and over, and possibly burn through the paint. Assuming you aren't going to remove them. If you're going to remove them to do it, brace the buffer upside down between your knees (or build a quick bracket for it from scrap wood) and hold the headlight over it, you'll have more control.

If the haze is really bad, you might have to get the commercial kits, but they're so common lately that you can probably get them at Walmart cheaply. But I'd try my mixes first.

If it's really, REALLY bad, sanding may be necessary to remove the top layer, I had to sand one of my taillights. I went to NAPA and bought 1500, 2000, and higher grits of wet sanding paper, up to 6000, and wet sanded it by hand (no sanding blocks, you want the sandpaper to conform to the headlight curves). That's how you work "orange peel" out of a paint job, it works well on plastic too. I seem to remember I only went up to 2000 grit before moving to vinegar/tartar to take out the haze from the sandpaper. 6000grit is so smooth it almost feels like newspaper.

I might take them out, not too hard to do. I don't want to hurt the HID bulbs sylvania stopped making them
impossible to find replacements
the haze is pretty bad
this is my dads car from Illinois so it had bad winters with salt and left out in the summer

Jakava, I tried to vote for your car pic but when I did it said file not found. Whats up??? How do I vote for you now???


Try CLR maybe??? Gets rid of calcium lime and rust on contact. Might get rid of the salt build up

no salt the plastic lens covers for the headlights are foggy, hazy

My cousin worked for 20 years at a dealership in charge of detailing the cars and getting them showroom ready. I will ask him tomorrow if he has any tips