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07/26/2021 - Best Mortgage Rates from Big & Reputable Lenders and SD Reviews (30year @ 2.75%, 15year @ 2.25% etc)

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Last Edited by shahhere July 26, 2021 at 06:35 AM
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Details on how to understand the Mortgage basics and information that I understand for your learning can be accessed on this post (Click this hyperlink to go to the post); If you are new to this process and have questions this is a Must Read before asking question on the forum!


Reviving my over a decade old thread from SD and FW as the rates have gotten competitive. This thread is a SD community thread to compare and post best rates received along with their lender experience for a quick compare and estimation from a starting point.


Please note that rates will vary on quite a few factors and just because one person has a rate will not guarantee you will receive the same rate but simply use this as a guide and negotiation tactic.

All below rates are based on assumptions of certain LTV, DTI, & Excellent Credit Scores:

30 Year Fixed best rates (Assuming Good Credit & 20% down, low LTV, low DTI, etc etc):
All listed lenders are here because I shopped them and have encountered competitive pricing and not because I get any sort of a kickback....use this as a gauge for the latest but note that things can change week to week, day to day and even hour to hour:

07/14/2021 2.875% Better.com- Will consider Lender Match to beat Competitors and combine with Amex cashback (Click here for additional Forum thread details). Amex's "Digital Assist" Team @ 800-297-7500

07/14/2021 2.875% LoanDepot.com - Is competitive but works better if you have another offer for them. My LO Luke Dean
LDean@LoanDepot.com 949-652-4521

07/14/2021 BSMFunding (David Pressel) - Call to get the latest rates (no published online). Very competitive rates; get everything in writing via email!
https://bsmfunding.mymortgage-onl...essel.html
David Pressel (NMLS: 562175)- Branch Manager - Phone: 908-208-2036
dpressel@bsmfunding.com
07/14/2021 2.5% LoanCabin [loancabin.com] - Most Competitive but refinance times have grow to almost 6 months for many people so proceed with caution as recent reviews indicate normal 1 month closing. Generally do not charge for big Lender Fees (A+B on LE) as they are under $100 in most cases; esp if appraisal is waived for your scenario.

07/14/2021 3% LenderFi - Competitive but might be slow and not work on beating other lender rates.
30 Year Fixed Jumbo Best Rates (Assuming Good Credit & 20% down):
TBD
15 year Fixed:
07/14/2021 2.0 % Better.com; matches Bankrate rates for themselves.
07/04/2020 2.5% NIH Credit Union with Lender Credit
Title Company Comparisions:
RadianTitleDirect.com - OP has used them for almost a decade with getting best rates (closed after Covid, Lender must submit order as consumer side is closed).
ALTTitle.com
https://www.valerotitle.com/ - Texas only.
Alphabetical list of other lenders (some could be non-proven without direct member experiences posted here):
  1. AimLoan - Will provide LE without hard pull if credit is frozen https://www.aimloan.com/
  2. Amerisave - will give you scores from all 3 bureaus with just a soft pull https://www.amerisave.com/
  3. Better.com https://better.com/
  4. BoxHomeLoans https://www.boxhomeloans.com/
  5. Close Your Own Loan https://www.closeyourownloan.com/...sults.aspx
  6. Colonial Mort http://www.colonialmort.com/
  7. HighTechLending http://www.hightechlending.co/Default.aspx
  8. Interactive Mortgage https://interactivemortgage.com/ Eric from IM is super rude so good luck dealing with this guy!
  9. LenderFi https://www.lenderfi.com [lenderfi.com]if the link wont work try this backend link: https://app.lenderfi.com/app/sign...r/lenderfi
  10. Loan Cabin https://www.loancabin.com/
  11. Loan Depot https://www.loandepot.com/
  12. LoanLock https://www.loanlock.com/
  13. NavyFederal CU https://www.navyfederal.org/
  14. NIH credit union (Delware, District of Columbia, Maryland, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia) https://www.nihfcu.org/
  15. Northpointe Bank https://www.northpointe.com/
  16. Owning.com (Operates only in CA) https://owning.com/
  17. Pentagon Federal CU https://www.penfed.org/
  18. Provident Funding - will give LE without locking rate https://www.provident.com/
  19. RatePlus (California) https://www.rateplus.com/
  20. Travis Credit Union (12 North Cal Counties only) https://www.traviscu.org/ Eligibility traviscu.org
  21. United wholesale mortgages https://www.uwm.com/
  22. Watermark Home Loans https://www.watermarkhomeloans.com/
  23. West Coast Mortgage Associates (The loan broker is in So.Cal. Debbie Morgan) https://wcmtg.com/


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Old Thread - https://slickdeals.net/e/1223863-03-06-2009-best-mortgage-rates-from-big-reputable-lenders-30year-5-15year-5-arm-s-etc
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Quote from MeAPhool :
I think a lot of people get confused with regards to "no closing cost". Specifically I think that is with regards to A+B+C (as referenced in this post by volcomssj48 - https://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=138543920&postcount=138)

As per volcomssj48, this is a good place to go for a basic understanding of the LE (Loan Estimate) that should be provided to you by each lender once you give all of your information: https://www.consumerfinance.gov/o...-estimate/

I'm in NJ so I can't really shop Title Insurance much as it's the cost is regulated by the state, however in other states, you can really cut down some of the costs in section "C".
Good site for daily mortgage news. Subscribe to their daily mortgage rate news to learn about their predictions. Also take a look at the rest of their site.
http://www.mortgagenewsdaily.com/...age_rates/



Potential Lenders - Mentioned in Thread
*Please add to this list and add locality if applicable*

  1. Loan Cabin https://www.loancabin.com/
  2. Better.com https://better.com/
  3. Interactive Mortgage https://interactivemortgage.com/
  4. LenderFi https://www.lenderfi.com/
  5. owning.com (Operates only in CA) https://owning.com/
  6. NIH credit union (Delware, District of Columbia, Maryland, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia) https://www.nihfcu.org/
  7. Loan Depot https://www.loandepot.com/
  8. Travis Credit Union (12 North Cal Counties only) https://www.traviscu.org/ Eligibility [traviscu.org]
  9. Pentagon Federal CU https://www.penfed.org/
  10. Interactive Mortgage https://interactivemortgage.com/
  11. NavyFederal CU https://www.navyfederal.org/
  12. United wholesale mortgages https://www.uwm.com/
  13. BoxHomeLoans https://www.boxhomeloans.com/
  14. LoanLock https://www.loanlock.com/
  15. West Coast Mortgage Associates (The loan broker is in So.Cal. Debbie Morgan) https://wcmtg.com/
  16. RatePlus (California) https://www.rateplus.com/
  17. Northpointe Bank https://www.northpointe.com/
  18. HighTechLending https://hightechlending.mortgagewebcenter.com/
  19. Close Your Own Loan https://www.closeyourownloan.com/...sults.aspx
  20. AimLoan - will give LE without hard pull if credit is frozen https://www.aimloan.com/
  21. Amerisave - will give you scores from all 3 bureaus with just a soft pull
    https://www.amerisave.com/
  22. Provident - will give LE without locking rate https://www.provident.com/ Best Credit Back with 60% LTV or better.
  23. Watermark Home Loans https://www.watermarkhomeloans.com/ Skip these guys. They are being rude to Slickdealers. In one occasion they have explicitly said they don't want to do business with people from Slickdeals. They also have an approach where they give you the best rate initially and just raise it more each time you ask.
  24. Colonial Mort http://www.colonialmort.com/
  25. Annie Mac https://www.annie-mac.com/ Licensed in these states https://www.annie-mac.com/page/licensed-states/
  26. Rate Rabbit https://www.raterabbit.com/ Licensed in MA and others [raterabbit.com]

Discount lenders who DO NOT accept fully documented in tax returns self-employment income:
Owning.com
BoxHomeLoans
Lower.com

Discount Lenders that DO accept fully documented in tax returns self-employment income:
Sebonic
Caliber
Sage

Title Company Shopping
AltTitle.com
mytitlegenius.com (formerly entitle direct)
TO AVOID - Settlement LTD (local Pittsburgh run away from them - high cost, very bad service, lot of delays)


Feel Free to Add Sections for Each Lender - MeAPhool

Loan Cabin - DetailsWARNING. DO NOT GO WITH LOAN CABIN. TRUST ME.
I would have lost the home if i was trying to buy a house.
I just had a normal refi and it took then 127 days to close. out of the 27 emails i sent, they responded to 3. I even had to call (complain) their main office 2 times to get a response to any emails. they screwed the closing paperwork as well.


Loan Cabin does not charge lender fees. Actually all of this is in their FAQ but of course nobody reads anything and wants everything spoon fed.

This means A+B (reference the link above in the wiki regarding Loan Estimate) in the Loan Estimate should be 0 (as long as your appraisal is waived).

You will be responsible for Title Cost (of course you can shop that to your heart's delight)
You will be responsible for Recording Fee in your county
You will be responsible for Escrows (if you so choose OR if you are close to Homeowner's OR Property Tax payment - though you can negotiate and show evidence to get it waived. Most lender's will waive it if you are choosing not to escrow and you can show proof that you paid the upcoming Property Tax or Homeowner's Insurance)

You will be responsible for Prepaid Interest (this isn't a cost. If you didn't refinance, you'd be paying the interest at your current mortgage rate which I assume would be higher).

Lender Credit - If this covers A+B+C+E then you have a no-cost refinance. If you have a surplus aside from A+B+C+E, then technically you made money on your refinance.


If you apply and do no hear back for 3 days, then on the 3rd business day, reach out to hello@loancabin.com. They will usually help get a response on your application within a day.



If the information in this WIKI does not cover your questions, then please ask. We will answer and update WIKI accordingly.

Thanks - MeAPhool

Quote from arouncoumar :
For those needing clarity on LC closing costs, I was on the same boat. See what they charge here https://www.dropbox.com/s/r30ecea...t.png?dl=0
Quote from PeterLegend :
Here is a photo of my loan estimate from Loan Cabin, my lender credits should be closer to 3K based on my initial conversations with Bob so i'm following up with him on that.

I do see title insurance in my estimate. I reached out to Owning but I didn't quality for the no cost refinance option since my LTV was 73%, it has to be 50% or lower when I spoke to them.

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#3
Homework and Understanding:


Step0: Acronyms used in this thread:


  1. LE = Loan Estimate
  2. LE Details Costs = A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I+J = Step2 Below
  3. LO = Loan Officer
  4. LTV = Loan to Value (how much you owe / property worth)
  5. DTI = Debt to Income ration (how much you owe vs your monthly salary)
  6. PM = Price Match
  7. LC = Loan Cabin (Lender listed below)
  8. WM = Watermark (Lender listed below)

Step1: The goal is to get a formal Loan Estimate (LE) from any lender you apply with and provide them your Social Security to do a Hard Pull. Note that for Mortgage related SS Hard pulls they are combined as a single inquiry and do not drop your credit score like individual credit card applications as this applies to Student Loan and Auto Loan shopping as well and is looked at a 14-45 day window.
Reference: https://www.myfico.com/credit-edu...-inquiries
Reference: https://www.equifax.com/personal/...it-report/
Step2: Understanding the Loan Estimate (LE) - A LE has been vastly standardized compared to the old Good Faith Estimate (GFE) and so the A-L letters correspond to he same(ish) information in this new standard format:
A – Charges in this section are what the Lender charges you such as Points/Discount Points, Origination Fee, App Fee etc. This is what you want to be Zero as most lenders will waive or give you Lender Credit to offset costs to zero during competitive times (not counting Points/Discount Points).
B – Internal lender fees such as Credit Reporting Fee; Flood Certification fee and an Appraisal Fee. Again this is what the lender has to pay when you apply and in most cases the lender will not charge this while you are shopping and some will make you pay this upfront which is ok. Appraisal is YMMV based on certain conditions and in many cases can e waived by Fannie/Freddie.
C – Title Costs – In most states (Excluding - FL, NY - CEMA cost, PA - High Title Costs, VA - Mortgage tax) the title costs are reasonable and this is what you generally pay for but you can shop this with other Title Companies and not just the one brought in by the Lender.
D = A+B+C
E – Taxes & Fees – Standard items you pay Uncle Sam
F – Prepaid – Generally will be interest until the end of the month or 1 extra month before your first payment is due. If you have premiums such as Insurance and City/School Taxes due soon (60-90 days) or soon after closing a refi then they might be collected by Title Company on behalf of the Lender and put in this line item.
G – Escrows – Similar to above Lenders will collect this on your behalf to reduce the risk of you not paying them. Escrows can be waived but will cost you on average 0.125%-0.375% as it's a risk that you won't pay on time to most lender/Fannie etc. Many lenders will overestimate this section and then trim down to the allowable escrow months plus a buffer (6months +2 etc). If Escrows are too expensive you can request to waive them after the 1st year as many lenders will accommodate that for free.
H – Other – Generally listed and standard.
I = E+F+G+H
J – (D+I) + Any Lender Credit that is offered to offset any charges in A&B or a bigger credit towards closing your loan.
Step3: Closing Cost shopping:
1. Lenders as of this writing are competing and are willing to have Zero Dollars charges in A&B from above and is considered a "No 3rd Party Costs" or "No Fee" loan.
2. All third party charges such as C=Title and E=Taxes and F=Escrows are in addition to this offering.
3. Many lenders will provide an even bigger credit than what the charges are in A&B as well as cover other items from C-I; this is termed "No Closing Costs" as it falls in 3 categories:
i. Negative Credit - Getting money left over from the credit to be used to either get up to a $2000 refund. Apply the remainder towards principle reduction (this changes your credit received as it changes the $$ you are borrowing as well.
ii. $0 – Most of the time you'll net very little left over or for you to pay out of pocket in this case. If you negotiated a "No Closing Cost" loan then the lender will should cover any unforeseen costs in A&B at the least.
iii. Cash required to close – In this scenario you'll have to bring additional funds to close the loan as after A-J would not cover all the closing costs.
4. Unless you LOCK the rate with the lender there are changes your numbers will change and so if the rates are low it's in your best interest to Lock.
5. Most lenders that I've shopped provide a "Float" option to further reduce your rate if there is a change of an 1/8% - ¼ % change in the rates. Many lenders are also willing to match other Lenders to match or beat the rates.
Applying:

Step4: Apply to 5-15 places to yield the best results when shopping. Apply to your local Banks but note that many smaller mortgage companies have a higher threshold for rates and credits in your favor. Applying means that you'll have to provide your Social Security# and some preliminary data in an application to get documents sent to you such as a Loan Estimate (LE). Note from above that Mortgage, Student & Car Loan Hard Pulls are groups as single hits and won't drop your credit score in most cases for 14-45 days. Below are the most competitive lenders that I've encountered for my scenario with my own feedback:


30 Year rates to use for other rate platforms and please note that my rate will not necessarily mean you'll get that rate as market and individual changes will determine that and even your negotiation pull will determine that:
2.625% - WatermarkHomeLoans.com - Michael C - 949-577-9120 – Most Competitive and might take 2-3 days to response. Should be able to get either no Costs for A&B or some credit back towards closing in J
2.625% - Loancabin.com - Competitive rates but are looking at 3-4 days response time - Should be able to kick you back some credit ($1000 to $2000)
2.75% Loan Depot – Competitive rates for many but get a bit pushy to lock which is OK if the offer is good.
3% LenderFi – No longer taking new application but were competitive and should be checked.
3.375% Better.com- Will consider Lender Match to beat Competitors and combine with Amex cashback
Not all Lender will service your state so keep looking and look for other local smaller lenders and banks.

Step5: While applying take note to provide and send/upload all documents to the lender in as little of a time as possible as many lenders will drop your application if it's not received in 2 business days. Normal documentation:
1. Last 2 Paystubs
2. Last 2 Bank Statements to show that you have money to pay during closing. Note; large transactions over certain dollar amount will get scrutinized and funds will need to come out of these bank account else you'll have trouble closing.
3. W2/Tax Filings from last 2 years. More years might be needed for some.
4. Home Owners Insurance – Declaration pages.
5. Current Lender Statement
6. Current Lender Payoff Statement
7. Driving License or other Government ID Scan.
Step6: Title Company. As noted above you are allowed to pick your own Title company and in many cases you'll find competitive rates here with large savings compared to the Lender's preferred Title Company. Title Companies I've used in the past with good success and others:
1. Radian Title Services - 412-494-0400 - clientrelations@radian.com – Best rates I've found hands down in 12 years of shopping. Currently not taking consumer direct inquiries and will require your lender to be established with them so the lender will have to place the order using the above email/phone.
2. AltTitle – Competitive all-inclusive rates.
3. Fidelity Title – Competitive rates
Step7: Negative points.

Step8: Breakeven Calculations and understanding money factor

Credit Score Analysis for my case:
  • -3 point drop - Dec into January for refinance and was probably just the hard pull hitting the scores.
  • -12 point drop - March after the loan funded this is unusually high as before it has been only a 6 point drop so not sure what else caused this big drop.
  • +6 point Gain - June right before another refinance start; probably just recovering with on time payments etc.
  • -3 point drop - Refinance applications put for multiple lenders (dozen).
  • -3 point drop - July early, I think this is attributed to me applying late to Watermark for example.
So based on the trends I'll see another drop once the loan is secured and on the books of 7-12 points. My credit was in 830+ and is currently hanging out at 815 from Transunion (will vary by company).


Putting it all together (thanks Zwitterion for the inspiration):

Lenders offer what's called a "Par Rate" which is their internal rate almost or no "points" or percentages on the loan amount. From there you can "Buy Down" the rate by paying points to get a lower rate or take a higher rate and get a "Credit" against the loan amount.


In standard scenario you want the best rate you can get without paying a lot of closing costs and getting the most credit towards your closing cost in section J of LE. The payoff calculation in standard scenarios is the net cost out of pocket after "Closing Costs" such as Origination Fee (Section A in LE), Credit Check, Flood Cert, MERs, Appraisal (Section B in in LE), Title Fees (Section C in LE) minus any Lender Credit from Section J in LE divided by the monthly payment difference between the original rate and the new rate is your breakeven point in months. Other costs in E-G section of the LE are considered costs you are paying for one way or another and shouldn't be calculated in your costs calculations. For example If you are paying $2000 in D (A+B+C=D) and getting aren't getting any credit in section J of LE it would take you 20 months to after which you will start saving on the interest of the loan if you are saving $100 a month between your higher original rate and the new refinance rate (e.g. Going from 3.75% to 2.75% and your monthly payments going from $1100 to $1000 = $100 a month savings). $2000 / $100 = 20 months = 1.6 Years


Aggressive Refinancing:


In non-standard or aggressive scenarios when the rates are trending down; markets are competitive; or if you know you won't live in the property after a certain time; or if the lender is giving large credits many people will take the said higher rate and take "Credit" to close the loan. The math behind this is that after you pay off the unavoidable "Closing Costs" in (A+B+C) and the credit you are getting would go towards that you pocket money after closing. Breakeven for this calculation is calculated by taking the 2 new rates and taking the difference between them. So for example your new refinance rate is 2.75% for which you are not getting any credit but your monthly payment will be $1000 vs 3% rate for which the lender is going to give you -$5000 credit to close the loan. In this example you your 2.75% monthly payments are at $1000 vs 3% being $1015 and so an increase of $15 a month more in monthly payments. Take the "closing costs" $2000 – "Credit" $5000 = $3000 coming back to you and you divide that by the month difference of $15 = $3000/$15 = 200 months before you start to pay a higher interest on the 3% higher loan amount.

In the second scenario if the breakeven is more than 4 Years before you start paying more in interest on the higher % loan should be considered as advantageous options. This is just a personal limit and for some it might be higher but in the examples where you have a scenario that leads to 80 or 100 or 200 months you are getting money upfront and if you invest that money moderately that break even becomes even longer and in your favor. There are regulations that prevent lenders from providing you extreme credits but even in instances where a large credit it provided it can be paid towards your Taxes and Escrows from Section E-I and the lender can rebate up to $2000 after all said and done before its considered a cash-out refinance.
Using the aggressive refinancing scenario many people can refinance multiple times over and over and in some instances 4-5 times in a calendar year. The big reason to keep doing this is so that you are making money after the loan closes and all the closing costs from (ABC) are paid and that money is left over. Few things to consider here
  1. 6 month period – many lenders have a 6 month period during which if you refinance the lender loses the credit they would get for accruing your loan. This is different than the pre-payment penalty of the loan and some lenders such as LenderFI will contractually make you sign a "claw-back" document stating that they can come after you for those lost $$. I would personally avoid these lenders but also be mindful and see if you can keep the loan for 6 months or work with the same lender for your next refinance.
  2. Credit scores – Your credit scores drop when you get a hard pull for the refinance start and can also drop slightly or you can see a larger drop after you close. At the same time if you are disciplined you'll see your score also recover each month after your close your loan. It's in your best interest to keep on top of your scores so as to not get to the lower score ranges which will affect the Rate and Credits you get. Many people will do 3-4 refinances and let the scores recover and breathe.
  3. Rates – the risk of taking a higher rate consistently also come full circle if the next refinance time period the market rates are higher. This could mean that you are now stuck with the sample 3% loan rate vs 2.75% for the duration of the loan and so if your plan for selling in 2 years doesn't come to fruition you will be paying higher costs on the life or until you can refinance favorably.
  4. Cashout – Cashout refinances have regulations around this and have a 6 month wait period so look into these items before doing aggressive refinances.


Shahhere
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Last edited by shahhere July 26, 2021 at 06:20 AM.
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#4
I just locked in and going through closing, expected to close in the next week.
Lender: owning.com (Operates only in CA)
Loan Type: Refinance, 30yr Fixed Conventional
Loan: Jumbo, ~650k
LTV: 65%
Rate: 2.99%
Points: 0.25
Appraisal: Waived
Closing Costs: $1600

You should definitely check out this lender, I did my research and had multiple competing offers from different lenders but none could beat this lender. Most of the other offers were not even close. I'm interested to see if anyone else has a better offer for a Jumbo.

#1. It is important, when negotiating with multiple lenders, to understand your out of pocket costs. Some of these out of pocket costs include prepaid interest, home insurance, escrow, etc that should be ignored when comparing other offers. Some charge more and some charge less but it is basically noise when comparing as you are paying for yourself.

#2. Other costs like underwriting fees, appraisal fee, document fee, points, etc are the true expenses to you when closing and needs to be compared against other offers.

Goal should be to lower your true OOP closing costs (#2) as much as possible. If rates go further down south in the near future would you be able to refinance again if your current OOP costs (down the drain) are higher?!

Always get a loan estimate (LE) from a lender with a rate lock. There are lot of players (lenders) out there who low ball other offers but these players cannot give you a LE with rate locked. Its a great tactic by them to put you in limbo and trying to earn your business.

Some lenders try to roll in the closing costs into your loan amount there by increasing the loan amount but $0 in OOP costs. Try not to get sucked into it. Know your numbers, and always go for what you can afford.
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Last edited by tarunvarun July 4, 2020 at 04:14 PM.
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#5
this post should be in finance section watch out some lenders advertise 2.5% plus apr
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#6
Is anyone really getting 15yr refinance with NO points for less than. 2.99%?

I've had 2.99% on 15 yr for about 5 yrs now. Would love to switch to 2.25% but don't think this exists?
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Quote from tarunvarun :
I just locked in and going through closing, expected to close in the next week.
Lender: owning.com
Loan: Jumbo
Rate: 2.99%
Points: 0.25
Closing Costs: $1600

You should definitely check out this lender, I did my research and had multiple competing offers from different lenders but none could beat this lender. Most of the other offers were not even close. I'm interested to see if anyone else has a better offer for a Jumbo.
What's your loan-to-value ratio?
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Quote from tarunvarun :
I just locked in and going through closing, expected to close in the next week.
Lender: owning.com
Loan: Jumbo
Rate: 2.99%
Points: 0.25
Closing Costs: $1600

You should definitely check out this lender, I did my research and had multiple competing offers from different lenders but none could beat this lender. Most of the other offers were not even close. I'm interested to see if anyone else has a better offer for a Jumbo.

Refinance or new loan?
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#9
Quote from tarunvarun :
I just locked in and going through closing, expected to close in the next week.
Lender: owning.com
Loan: Jumbo
Rate: 2.99%
Points: 0.25
Closing Costs: $1600

You should definitely check out this lender, I did my research and had multiple competing offers from different lenders but none could beat this lender. Most of the other offers were not even close. I'm interested to see if anyone else has a better offer for a Jumbo.

I have a 30 year at 2.75% with $1000 back in points on almost a $230K loan with LoanCabin so you'll need to post your Loan and other items to get a true compare. I assume this is also for a Jumbo as you noted that in the later part which might make sense as the Jumbo Rates are higher.


The biggest problem I see is that this is for California only based on the input fields on their website........


Shahhere
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Last edited by shahhere July 4, 2020 at 02:03 PM.

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Joined Sep 2012
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#10
Quote from ionizer :
Is anyone really getting 15yr refinance with NO points for less than. 2.99%?

I've had 2.99% on 15 yr for about 5 yrs now. Would love to switch to 2.25% but don't think this exists?
I got 2.5% fixed for 15 yr with some lender credit at NIH credit union.

Check credit unions. The rates vary a lot between credit unions (I have accounts at many credit unions to have access to their products). I closed mid May on mine.
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Last edited by hondaboi01 July 4, 2020 at 02:27 PM.
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#11
Quote from ionizer :
Is anyone really getting 15yr refinance with NO points for less than. 2.99%?

I've had 2.99% on 15 yr for about 5 yrs now. Would love to switch to 2.25% but don't think this exists?

I just refi'ed from 3.5% 20 year loan to 15 year loan and got 2.625% with no points/fees. Mortgage amount was about 400k.
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#12
Just locked in with Owning in CA at 2.75% for conventional 30yr fixed with $1k to close since LTV is 74% on a $480k loan.
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#13
I got 2.875% for 30 yrs fixed. Lender cashback $2500.. Wells fargo.
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#14
Great thread. I live in Wisconsin and I'm looking to refi. It looks like the sites listed in this thread doesn't have a WI option. (LoanCabin - 15 states without WI & Owning looks like CA only) Any other search or recommendations?
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#15
Is their rate quote accurate? I got a unbelievable 2.5% rate for 30-year with $444 points. Might it be bait and switch?

Also, how much is the usual closing cost for loan cabin? I got 5k lender credits from better.com with a 3% rate
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