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Costco Members: Ubio Labs 350A Jump Starter w/ Portable Power Bank Expired
$40
$59.99
+ Free Shipping
Costco Wholesale has for its Members: Ubio Labs 350A Jump Starter w/ 8,000mAh Portable Power Bank for $39.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member einstrigger for finding this deal.
Includes:
Thanks to Community Member einstrigger for finding this deal.
Includes:
- Rugged Carrying Case
- 8K Power Bank
- Smart Jump Cables
- Wall Charger
- 3 ft. USB-C Cable
- 12V Jump Starter for Cars and Light Trucks with up to 4.0L Gas Engines
- LCD Display Shows Battery Health and Step-by-Step Guidance
- Boost Mode charges extremely low batteries until ready to Jump Start
- Built-in Flashlight with 3 Brightness Levels and SOS mode
Original Post
Written by
Edited February 9, 2022
at 11:55 AM
Had to jump start my wife's car last night and started looking for some alternatives. Found this on Costco and seems to get mostly positive reviews. Normally $59.99, but on sale for $39.99. Although it states support up to 4.0L gas engines, the reviews seem to say no for V8's. But, if in doubt, there's always Costco's return policy to fall back on. Expires 2/11/2022
UBio Labs 350A Jump Starter 8000mAH Power Bank $39.99 [costco.com]
Features:
UBio Labs 350A Jump Starter 8000mAH Power Bank $39.99 [costco.com]
Features:
- 12V Jump Starter for Cars and Light Trucks with up to 4.0L Gas Engines
- LCD Display Shows Battery Health and Step-by-Step Guidance
- Boost Mode charges extremely low batteries until ready to Jump Start
- Built-in Flashlight with 3 Brightness Levels and SOS mode
- Includes Rugged Carrying Case, 8K Power Bank, Smart Jump Cables, and Wall Charger
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Heck, my wife made fun of me when I bought one for her car a few years ago. She sort of patiently watched me show her how to use it before I put it in her trunk. A few months later she had a dead battery when she was out and about. AAA said they could be there in 45 minutes. Thankfully she remembered how to use it (it's easy) and was back on the road in minutes. She has sung it's praises ever since.
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I;m not a mechanic and I don't know anything about brands but I'm assuming these are all pretty similar (since same tech and pretty mature now).
So, car batteries only die if you're at home or in a populated area? That's weird. My car battery didn't get the memo. Just 2 months ago, I was heading home when my car died, while I was driving, and no one was around to help. I had to have someone come meet me to jump it, while I was pulled over on the side of the road. This would've been incredibly handy.
Also, this DOES NOT need to be fully charged to work.
Another use I found is taking it with me to the junkyard to power cars without batteries so I can pop the trunk open. I make sure to bring it every time I go since the cars never have the key in them.
Another use I found is taking it with me to the junkyard to power cars without batteries so I can pop the trunk open. I make sure to bring it every time I go since the cars never have the key in them.
I've seen some around 50,000, more expensive of course, floating around. But they have the ability to charge cars, multiple phone, and laptops for days.
I got the Noco GB50 on sale a year or two ago on SD and it's 1500A.
I started up so many dead cars with one similar to this, actually a cheaper version. The battery pack was dead on occasion but still got the vehicle to start. Or in the freezing cold too.
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Anyway, I returned it for not working. I guess I should've tried it on a different car, but I didn't want to wait in a parking lot hoping someone needed a jump start to test it out of a different vehicle. That would be a little weird.
Guess I will give it a another try; better to have it around just in case. Thanks for posting. Not sure why I wrote that story, but it was just my experience using this exact jump starter.
Bought some cheap Yaber from Amazon - cheapest i found hoping this sensing logic won't be there. Well, it's not there, works great. Don't know if i am missing on safety but used it many times so far.
Also, don't know about this one but Type S from Costco was crap compared to anything on Amazon.
Anyway, I returned it for not working. I guess I should've tried it on a different car, but I didn't want to wait in a parking lot hoping someone needed a jump start to test it out of a different vehicle. That would be a little weird.
Guess I will give it a another try; better to have it around just in case. Thanks for posting. Not sure why I wrote that story, but it was just my experience using this exact jump starter.
After watching a bunch of YT videos and reviews, I decided to go with 1500A model as my Honda and Toy are only V6. I got a Nexpow from Amazon last year and it recently jumped an Infiniti full-size SUV with no problem.
I have one of those old school huge battery jumpstarter things I bought close to 10 years ago at a pepboys, maybe it's time to switch to something smaller like this.
Are you sure that huge battery jumper still works? I've had mine 5-6 years and charge it every month since I use the air compressor on it for tires. I needed to jump my car recently and it barely had enough power to turn over the car.
If someone has one of those fancy sports cars that require Hi-Test gas for the high compression engine....would that require a higher current device?
Plain USB-C is supposed to go up to 5V, 15W (3A), so is a bit more expensive to implement. USB-C PD negotiates a voltage with the device (up to 48V, 240W now, though most top out at 15V, 65W). So is most expensive to implement, but I'm hopeful it will eventually replace the ubiquitous 12V cigarette adapter for everything DC.
Most of them can be kept charged by leaving them plugged into your car's 12V cigarette adapter or USB-A. If you carry one of these in your car, it should always be fully charged.
As someone else mentioned, they'll see far more use as a jumbo battery pack for mobile devices. So make sure you get one which will be compatible with your devices for that purpose.
years ago. .
Li-ion batteries like to be kept between 10%-90% charge (20%-80% is better). Charging them to 100% or discharging them completely diminishes their capacity and reduces their cycle life. They self-discharge slower too (usually 1%-3% per month), so are safer (in terms of holding a charge) if you go 1+ years without recharging.
Their downside is a nasty tendency to go into thermal runaway and catch fire/explode if punctured, or you attempt to use it after it's been discharged below 0% or charged above 100%. They're all supposed to have a controller which permanently bricks the battery if it goes below 0% or above 100%. But some cheap Li-ion battery packs lack this. (Notably the hoverboards which were all the rage a few Christmases ago. Cheap Chinese manufacturers put a plain Li-ion battery in them without a proper controller, and many of them caught fire.)
Though to be fair, if you puncture or tip a lead-acid battery, it'll spill sulfuric acid everywhere. That's why gel cell and AGM batteries were invented - those hold the acid in a matrix so it's less likely to/can't spill out.
My friends heavy duty one jumped it just fine
The better units have an override switch which lets you force it to deliver full power if you're absolutely sure you've got it hooked up correctly. The worse units lack protection circuitry entirely. They'll deliver full power even if you've hooked it up incorrectly, possibly damaging and destroying the unit and whatever you've connected it to.
Anyone have experience with this? I don't recall my instructions asking for a waiting period.
- Ones that can jump start the engine directly. (Lots of small Li-ion cells arranged in parallel.)
- Ones which first charge an internal capacitor, then that capacitor jump starts the engine. (Usually just 3-4 Li-ion cells arranged in series to get it above 12V.)
- Ones which you plug into a cigarette lighter and wait 10-20 minutes, while it pumps enough juice into the car's battery to allow that to crank the engine. (3-4 Li-ion cells as in the second one, but lacks an internal capacitor.)
While any of them can help jump a car with a dead battery, there's a pretty big difference in convenience and expense.Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
The thickness of the wires which are needed depends on the amount of current AND the length of the wires. The leads with the clamps on these are usually only 6-12 inches, vs 6-10 ft for jumper cables. So they can get away with wires only 20%-40% the thickness (5%-20% the cross sectional area).
But by limiting operation to a few seconds... no issues.