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Amazon | $32.99 |
Product Name: | TEAMGROUP AX2 512GB 3D NAND TLC 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal Solid State Drive SSD (Read Speed up to 540 MB/s) Compatible with Laptop & PC Desktop T253A3512G0C101 |
Manufacturer: | TEAMGROUP |
Model Number: | AX2 |
Product SKU: | B08CK7T9FG |
UPC: | 765441052581 |
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SSD's originally came out in SLC form which means each cell had it's own controller and you could write 1 byte at a time and it would just write to that cell. The problem is that this makes the SSD VERY expensive because every single cell needed a controller. Later came MLC then TLC now we have QLC.
SLC = 1 cell, 1 controller
MLC = 2 cells, 1 controller
TLC = 3 cells, 1 controller
QLC = 4 cells, 1 controler
(BTW What I am calling the controller basically is the read/write circuit so if you had to write 1 byte of data with SLC you only wrote the one byte. With QLC you have to write all four cells at the same time. This takes a longer time and slows down the writes and also makes the SSD wear a bit faster as you are sometimes writing data that did not need to be written to.)
So to speed up the writes once MLC/TLC/QLC hit, they started adding RAM to act as a buffer to speed up the writes. This cost more money but could really help make an SSD faster as long as what you were writing fit in the buffer.
So in the quest to get cheap and knowing that most people do not know or care about buffers or MLC or QLC, they started coming out with really cheap TLC and QLC SSD's that had no buffers and used cheaper and older controller tech. They were still faster than traditional hard drives and so what if they crapped out in 2-3 years instead of 5-8 years?
The reason I am writing all of this is that DRAM less SSD's are fine for data storage. Reading from an SSD is free... IE reads to not wear out an SSD, only writes do. So putting a game on a cheap SSD might be a bit slower but it will not normally wear out an SSD for most types of games.
The issue is using a cheap DRAMless SSD as a boot drive. NEVER NEVER do this!
Your boot drive is constantly writing small amounts of data to the drive and the DRAM will buffer this and then write to the drive in larger chunks and not constantly. Now I know many of you will say that you have been using a cheap DRAMless SSD as a boot for years but let me ask you this question....
Is the $20 you save really worth the risk on using one of these as your boot drive? Here are the technical details if you want to read up on it.
https://www.mydigitaldi
P.S. There is a third type of SSD you will read about and this is the DRAMless SLD drive. Basically they stick a small amount of fast SLC on a SSD without DRAM and while this is better than having nothing, you really do not save much IMHO
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SSD's originally came out in SLC form which means each cell had it's own controller and you could write 1 byte at a time and it would just write to that cell. The problem is that this makes the SSD VERY expensive because every single cell needed a controller. Later came MLC then TLC now we have QLC.
SLC = 1 cell, 1 controller
MLC = 2 cells, 1 controller
TLC = 3 cells, 1 controller
QLC = 4 cells, 1 controler
(BTW What I am calling the controller basically is the read/write circuit so if you had to write 1 byte of data with SLC you only wrote the one byte. With QLC you have to write all four cells at the same time. This takes a longer time and slows down the writes and also makes the SSD wear a bit faster as you are sometimes writing data that did not need to be written to.)
So to speed up the writes once MLC/TLC/QLC hit, they started adding RAM to act as a buffer to speed up the writes. This cost more money but could really help make an SSD faster as long as what you were writing fit in the buffer.
So in the quest to get cheap and knowing that most people do not know or care about buffers or MLC or QLC, they started coming out with really cheap TLC and QLC SSD's that had no buffers and used cheaper and older controller tech. They were still faster than traditional hard drives and so what if they crapped out in 2-3 years instead of 5-8 years?
The reason I am writing all of this is that DRAM less SSD's are fine for data storage. Reading from an SSD is free... IE reads to not wear out an SSD, only writes do. So putting a game on a cheap SSD might be a bit slower but it will not normally wear out an SSD for most types of games.
The issue is using a cheap DRAMless SSD as a boot drive. NEVER NEVER do this!
Your boot drive is constantly writing small amounts of data to the drive and the DRAM will buffer this and then write to the drive in larger chunks and not constantly. Now I know many of you will say that you have been using a cheap DRAMless SSD as a boot for years but let me ask you this question....
Is the $20 you save really worth the risk on using one of these as your boot drive? Here are the technical details if you want to read up on it.
https://www.mydigitaldi
P.S. There is a third type of SSD you will read about and this is the DRAMless SLD drive. Basically they stick a small amount of fast SLC on a SSD without DRAM and while this is better than having nothing, you really do not save much IMHO
You can use crystal disk info and run the random read write test. But increase it to 5-10gb. And watch the read writes plummet.
Another test that can be done to test the possible speed, reliability and durability of an ssd is to download a very large file, a video file that's 5-10gb, maybe make one yourself with a video editing program or upload it from your iPhone. Transfer and copy it from one folder to another. And at some point, especially the cheaper drives, watch the read writes go from 400+ down to 40-80mbps and even slower.
One thing that I will say, I have tested this on various drives and I observed inland, pny, sandisk and Kingston come to a crawl on this test. The crucial BX series did not come to a crawl. It kept up with the MX series almost as long. I haven't tested any Samsung drives or their QVO but I think there's a reason why they have a good reputation in the industry so we don't have to question them