18" and 20" OOS. Only 16" showing available as of 9:48am Pacific.
Assembly video: until someone provides an assembly video on this exact bike, this is the closest I could find on a similar bike: https://youtu.be/8Ez3a6aoL8c
expiredAlexG30 posted Jun 30, 2022 02:26 PM
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expiredAlexG30 posted Jun 30, 2022 02:26 PM
Framed Ultimate Terrain Mountain Bike (Black)
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$600
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https://www.evanscycles
Bar [amazon.com]
Grips [amazon.com]
Pedals [amazon.com]
Be sure to watch YT for installations. Common installation mistakes for above items include over-tightening and tightening wrong direction.
How to Adjust a Front Derailleur [youtu.be]
How to Adjust a Rear Derailleur [youtu.be]
One main reason MTB/gravel riders upgrade to 1x (one by) drivetrain is to simplify the derailleur adjustments. This bike can be upgraded to 1x later, but would require upgrading the rear hub/wheel. There's nothing wrong with 3x drivetrain on this bike. In my opinion, 1x is more of a quality-of-life upgrade, others might tell you 1x also saves weight.
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Placed an order for this at $179 plus tax.
Funny you should mention GT Aggressor Pro. My friend who got this 18" bike used to ride a 19" GT Aggressor Pro. This bike is mostly better equipped with better frame specs. Some notable differences:
- This hydraulic brakes > GT's mechanical
- This 44mm head tube > GT's 34mm (GT cannot take tapered forks)
- This 31.6mm seat post > GT's 27.2mm
- This 29" wheel vs GT's 27.5" wheel (personal preference)
- GT's freehub (3x8) > this freewheel (3x7)
Used to be able to buy the GT at $299 or less couple times a year pre-pandemic. No longer. Even at discounted $299 is still inferior to this bike at $180 (or $125/$135). So GT is not worth it at $399 and getting long in the tooth, especially when several Walmart bikes now have better frame specs, geometry and components at very competitive prices.Funny you should mention GT Aggressor Pro. My friend who got this 18" bike used to ride a 19" GT Aggressor Pro. This bike is mostly better equipped with better frame specs. Some notable differences:
- This hydraulic brakes > GT's mechanical
- This 44mm head tube > GT's 34mm (GT cannot take tapered forks)
- This 31.6mm seat post > GT's 27.2mm
- This 29" wheel vs GT's 27.5" wheel (personal preference)
- GT's freehub (3x8) > this freewheel (3x7)
Used to be able to buy the GT at $299 or less couple times a year pre-pandemic. No longer. Even at discounted $299 is still inferior to this bike at $180 (or $125/$135). So GT is not worth it at $399 and getting long in the tooth, especially when several Walmart bikes now have better frame specs, geometry and components at very competitive prices.checked the order and it shows "just shipped" . I do think the 18" would be a better fit, may just have to return this one. It'll be about 95% on road , debating if I want to try it out. I can probably lean the bike to the side a little if needed vs standing flat footed, not ideal but a thought.
From some quick measurements while still in the box, the seat tube length (from bottom bracket to top of set tube) and the tube tube (roughly "reach") lengths are very close to my 2020 size L Specialized Stumpjumper.
I'll build the bike later today and post some actual measurements.
For my purposes, I'd actually prefer a smaller frame. So if anyone in the San Diego / Orange Co area has a 16" they want to swap, hit me up via DM. I can assist with build and tuning if needed.
For those who thinking about upgrading the fork, SunTour has a fork upgrade program that can get you into an air fork somewhat reasonably:
https://www.srsuntour.u
If you know what you're doing, you can find better prices on better forks used or on clearance from online retailers. But the SunTour program makes the process pretty straightforward.
Personally, I'd feel better paying a little more and putting on a new SunTour air fork over one of the no-name / no-support air forks from Amazon or eBay (but that's just my take).
I bought this bike just to reduce wear and tear on my better bikes when playing around the neighborhood with the kids, so I'm trying hard to avoid the black hole of upgrades, but the temptation is real…
Let me know if you have any questions I can answer while doing the build today.
From some quick measurements while still in the box, the seat tube length (from bottom bracket to top of set tube) and the tube tube (roughly "reach") lengths are very close to my 2020 size L Specialized Stumpjumper.
I'll build the bike later today and post some actual measurements.
For my purposes, I'd actually prefer a smaller frame. So if anyone in the San Diego / Orange Co area has a 16" they want to swap, hit me up via DM. I can assist with build and tuning if needed.
For those who thinking about upgrading the fork, SunTour has a fork upgrade program that can get you into an air fork somewhat reasonably:
https://www.srsuntour.u
If you know what you're doing, you can find better prices on better forks used or on clearance from online retailers. But the SunTour program makes the process pretty straightforward.
Personally, I'd feel better paying a little more and putting on a new SunTour air fork over one of the no-name / no-support air forks from Amazon or eBay (but that's just my take).
I bought this bike just to reduce wear and tear on my better bikes when playing around the neighborhood with the kids, so I'm trying hard to avoid the black hole of upgrades, but the temptation is real…
Let me know if you have any questions I can answer while doing the build today.
From some quick measurements while still in the box, the seat tube length (from bottom bracket to top of set tube) and the tube tube (roughly "reach") lengths are very close to my 2020 size L Specialized Stumpjumper.
I'll build the bike later today and post some actual measurements.
For my purposes, I'd actually prefer a smaller frame. So if anyone in the San Diego / Orange Co area has a 16" they want to swap, hit me up via DM. I can assist with build and tuning if needed.
For those who thinking about upgrading the fork, SunTour has a fork upgrade program that can get you into an air fork somewhat reasonably:
https://www.srsuntour.u
If you know what you're doing, you can find better prices on better forks used or on clearance from online retailers. But the SunTour program makes the process pretty straightforward.
Personally, I'd feel better paying a little more and putting on a new SunTour air fork over one of the no-name / no-support air forks from Amazon or eBay (but that's just my take).
I bought this bike just to reduce wear and tear on my better bikes when playing around the neighborhood with the kids, so I'm trying hard to avoid the black hole of upgrades, but the temptation is real…
Let me know if you have any questions I can answer while doing the build today.
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Although several of the key measurements (seat tube height, effective top tube length, stand over height) are very close to my size L Stumpjumper, the Framed 18" definitely feels significantly smaller when riding.
Part of it is the slacker geometry and full suspension of course, but the major difference is that the Stumpjumper has a much longer wheelbase even before the suspension squish.
But I think the Framed 18" is probably closer to a size Medium in a Specialized bike.
So at my height and inseam, the 18" seems about perfect for my purposes
I measured standover height to be 28.5" vertically over the bottom bracket. You'll have a higher number the further you slide up the bike of course.
Those concerned about touching the top tube when putting both feet down, realize that you'd almost never do that in real riding. Just get in the habit of putting one foot down when starting and stopping. You can probably ride a larger frame than you think.
Some of the other concerns I've heard expressed about these bikes being overly large may come from those that aren't used to modern geo 29" MTBs. These things initially feel huge - especially if you're coming to them from 26/27.5" bikes with older geometry.
But you can get used to the size quickly. And you'll appreciate the larger frame/slack geo and 29" wheels the rougher the terrain becomes.
Other notes:
There are water bottle bosses on the bottom tube. I could never find them in any pics.
The wheels use Schrader valve tubes. Most bike shop 29" tubes will have Presta valves. Double check when you buy your spares.
I only needed to adjust the front derailleur's low limit screw to dial in the shifting. The stamped steel drive train doesn't sound pretty but it's functional.
The cable/line routing is a bit funky in that for most bikes, cables exit out of the tube tube on the opposite of the where they mount on the handle bars and then cross over in front of the stem. On these frames, they come out the same side as where they mount on the bars. Less tidy and adds some friction but not not worth rerouting at this stage.
I did have to remove my front brake lever/master and untwist the hose as they way it came caused the hose to flare out sideways from the fork (a snag hazard).
All and all, I think this is a helluva lot of bike for $125/135/180. I wish I had come across this before buying my wife an REI Drt1.1 as this is a much better bike for 1/3 the cost.
I feel bad for those who haven't been able to score one of these due to the vendor's incompetence. Let's hope they magically find another batch somewhere.
Thanks to the OP and contributors to this thread.
Although several of the key measurements (seat tube height, effective top tube length, stand over height) are very close to my size L Stumpjumper, the Framed 18" definitely feels significantly smaller when riding.
Part of it is the slacker geometry and full suspension of course, but the major difference is that the Stumpjumper has a much longer wheelbase even before the suspension squish.
But I think the Framed 18" is probably closer to a size Medium in a Specialized bike.
So at my height and inseam, the 18" seems about perfect for my purposes
I measured standover height to be 28.5" vertically over the bottom bracket. You'll have a higher number the further you slide up the bike of course.
Those concerned about touching the top tube when putting both feet down, realize that you'd almost never do that in real riding. Just get in the habit of putting one foot down when starting and stopping. You can probably ride a larger frame than you think.
Some of the other concerns I've heard expressed about these bikes being overly large may come from those that aren't used to modern geo 29" MTBs. These things initially feel huge - especially if you're coming to them from 26/27.5" bikes with older geometry.
But you can get used to the size quickly. And you'll appreciate the larger frame/slack geo and 29" wheels the rougher the terrain becomes.
Other notes:
There are water bottle bosses on the bottom tube. I could never find them in any pics.
The wheels use Schrader valve tubes. Most bike shop 29" tubes will have Presta valves. Double check when you buy your spares.
I only needed to adjust the front derailleur's low limit screw to dial in the shifting. The stamped steel drive train doesn't sound pretty but it's functional.
The cable/line routing is a bit funky in that for most bikes, cables exit out of the tube tube on the opposite of the where they mount on the handle bars and then cross over in front of the stem. On these frames, they come out the same side as where they mount on the bars. Less tidy and adds some friction but not not worth rerouting at this stage.
I did have to remove my front brake lever/master and untwist the hose as they way it came caused the hose to flare out sideways from the fork (a snag hazard).
All and all, I think this is a helluva lot of bike for $125/135/180. I wish I had come across this before buying my wife an REI Drt1.1 as this is a much better bike for 1/3 the cost.
I feel bad for those who haven't been able to score one of these due to the vendor's incompetence. Let's hope they magically find another batch somewhere.
Thanks to the OP and contributors to this thread.
Kick stand ($16.98 used): https://smile.amazon.co
Spacers (needed when replacing bar neck thing, $8.99 new): https://smile.amazon.co
Bar stem ($16.97 used, 90mm): https://smile.amazon.co
Water bottle holder ($6.51 new): https://smile.amazon.co
Suspension seat post ($23.99 used, 31.6mm x 350mm): https://smile.amazon.co
Swept Handle Bars ($23.99 new, 31.8mm): https://smile.amazon.co
Grips ($24.76 new, I sprung extra for these vs. $9 for other locking options, love them!): https://smile.amazon.co
Phone/top bar bag ($18.45 new w/ coupon): https://smile.amazon.co
Gel commuter seat ($20.17 used, Commuter/Gel): https://smile.amazon.co
Water bottle ($21.12 used, black): https://smile.amazon.co
Stem riser ( $11.20 used, I bought this, but haven't installed, might not need it, back pain after longer ride will determine that): https://smile.amazon.co
The following is a maint stand, definitely not necessary, and while I have built it, I haven't used it enough to say if it is good, or if it will last. I got tired at looking at different cheap ones trying to find a "good yet cheap" one, so grabbed this used as the cheapest one that had the features I wanted. I have built it and messed with it a bit, seems very nice for the $$. Since I have a few bikes to mess with for the fam, it was worth it to me... tired of working awkwardly on an upside down bike, or needing someone to hold the backend up, etc.
Bike stand ($70.88 used): https://smile.amazon.co
My second choice if the one I bought doesn't work out, but I wanted a two leg version to be more space economical while working on the bike, which is why I went with the one I did: https://smile.amazon.co
Thanks to the other posters on this thread who helped me pick all of this stuff out!!
Not including the maint. stand, I am $317 into this bike for a bike that fits great, what a deal! Take out the unnecessary stuff like water bottle, phone bag, go with cheaper grips, etc. and it woud be well under $300 all in.
Just watched today's GCN video and first 5 sec had me rotf and immediately thought about posting here for your enjoyment: https://youtu.be/TQuh_iAjVFA
If you only watch the first 5 - 10 sec, quick context -- the 2 guys swapped bikes to make a point, and the short guy on the tall bike obviously had an unintentional incident.
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Kick stand ($16.98 used): https://smile.amazon.co
Spacers (needed when replacing bar neck thing, $8.99 new): https://smile.amazon.co
Bar stem ($16.97 used, 90mm): https://smile.amazon.co
Water bottle holder ($6.51 new): https://smile.amazon.co
Suspension seat post ($23.99 used, 31.6mm x 350mm): https://smile.amazon.co
Swept Handle Bars ($23.99 new, 31.8mm): https://smile.amazon.co
Grips ($24.76 new, I sprung extra for these vs. $9 for other locking options, love them!): https://smile.amazon.co
Phone/top bar bag ($18.45 new w/ coupon): https://smile.amazon.co
Gel commuter seat ($20.17 used, Commuter/Gel): https://smile.amazon.co
Water bottle ($21.12 used, black): https://smile.amazon.co
Stem riser ( $11.20 used, I bought this, but haven't installed, might not need it, back pain after longer ride will determine that): https://smile.amazon.co
The following is a maint stand, definitely not necessary, and while I have built it, I haven't used it enough to say if it is good, or if it will last. I got tired at looking at different cheap ones trying to find a "good yet cheap" one, so grabbed this used as the cheapest one that had the features I wanted. I have built it and messed with it a bit, seems very nice for the $$. Since I have a few bikes to mess with for the fam, it was worth it to me... tired of working awkwardly on an upside down bike, or needing someone to hold the backend up, etc.
Bike stand ($70.88 used): https://smile.amazon.co
My second choice if the one I bought doesn't work out, but I wanted a two leg version to be more space economical while working on the bike, which is why I went with the one I did: https://smile.amazon.co
Thanks to the other posters on this thread who helped me pick all of this stuff out!!
Not including the maint. stand, I am $317 into this bike for a bike that fits great, what a deal! Take out the unnecessary stuff like water bottle, phone bag, go with cheaper grips, etc. and it woud be well under $300 all in.
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