Home.Woot! has
Homelabs 230V Mini Split Air Conditioners on sale from
$399.99.
Shipping is free w/ Amazon Prime or is otherwise a flat $6 per order.
Thanks to Community Member
TarikV for finding this deal.
Available (select from dropdown menu):
- 9,000 BTU unit (cooling capacity up to 400 sq. ft) $399.99
- 12,000 BTU unit (cooling capacity up to 550 sq. ft) $499.99
Product Details:- Air conditioner and heater in one
- Auto, Cool, Dry, Heat, and Fan modes
- Other notable features include the stealth LED display, 2 way swing, and eco-friendly refrigerant R410A.
- Backlit LCD remote
- Permanent washable and easy to clean air filter
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can't be used below 5°F, where the Pioneer units are good to -15°F
1 year limited warranty
can't find the SEER rating anywhere, which normally means it's hilariously low... only thing that even mentions it is on the Woot page, which has to be wrong "Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) 2.6"
here's the manual for those interested. [manualslib.com]
wait for the Pioneer units to go back on sale at HomeDepot or a MrCool... i put a Pioneer 9K 240V unit in our 12x20 pot belly pig house last year, worked great over the NY winter, kept the house at a steady 66° even on the weeks we barely got above 0°F during the day and down to -10° over night. that's also with freezer straps on the doorway so the pigs can get out to do their business during the day.
side note... even if you're handy, do all the work up to the final line-set connection and just let an AC guy connect it up, pump it down, fill with nitrogen and leak check. my guy charged 300$, well worth it for the piece of mind to me.
You do not even need refrigerant gauges for 99% of mini split installs unless something is wrong with the system. Most manufacturers do not want you hooking gauges up unless you are troubleshooting.
True, but there is no alternative unless you want a window unit. Kinda like factoring the price of a pot to boil the water when discussing the cost of a pasta dinner.
And you don't "need" lineset covers.
You should NOT shorten the lineset unless the manual tells you to. These systems are "critically charged" and the lineset lengths are taken into account. Meaning a few feet difference lineset length could overcharge the system hurting performance / efficiently. Also half the point of a lineset being pre-flared is ease of install. Shortening the lineset defeats that purpose and adds another step to install...a step that probably will cause a refrigerant leak as well.
While there is a move towards other refrigerants R410a is still the most common in the US.
BTW, I hate these HVAC related posts because there is so much (probably well intentioned) misinformation shared.
Mini Splits....live long and prosper.
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Between the two, I would chose WYS despite the WYT having a left/right swing function that the WYS doesn't.
Midea is the"No.1 air treatment products manufacturer in the world". Their mini split units gets re-branded with multiple brand names from Mr. Cool all the way to name brands like Carrier.
And similar Mitsubishi unit will cost double this just for the air handler and condenser. Of course if you spend triple you'll probably get a better product....
The cost to repair is often near or higher than the cost to replace.
We did this with a three zone Pioneer unit. No worries about leaky ducts and each bedroom can cool to its own temperature within reason. There's only one condenser unit outside. It uses fewer amps than the old central AC for the same BTUs.
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I was just explaining why it was considered not repairable. Minisplits cost less so the economic point at which replacing rather than repairing is lower.
I like minisplit technology so I am not trying to dissuade anyone from purchasing just explaining why the repair consideration differs.
By the way the Bosch central ACs use similar technology (and coincidentally are rebranded Mideas).
The garage is fully insulated with R-38 in the rafters (4:12 roof pitch) and R-13 in the walls. Since it's insulated at the rafters I'm concerned that all of the overhead space is going to make even the $17k BTU unit not enough. I guess, in theory, I could install one of the 12k on each end of the garage and still save money. Advice?
The garage is fully insulated with R-38 in the rafters (4:12 roof pitch) and R-13 in the walls. Since it's insulated at the rafters I'm concerned that all of the overhead space is going to make even the $17k BTU unit not enough. I guess, in theory, I could install one of the 12k on each end of the garage and still save money. Advice?
It works for me because I'm working under the fan stream...I wish I would've gone at least 18k if I have to move around the garage frequently.
12k for my garage size and hot region during summer is not enough
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It works for me because I'm working under the fan stream...I wish I would've gone at least 18k if I have to move around the garage frequently.
12k for my garage size and hot region during summer is not enough