Champion 100519 240 volt 6250-5000 Watt Open Frame Inverter with Quiet Technology -transfer switch ready back-up generator with Wheel kit $506.43 A/C- YMMV -free shipping at Amazon

Awesome, I recently signed up for that Backup Power Transfer Meter program after learning my area was eligible...
...Now the dilemma, which is more practical for the power transfer switch for frequent short power outages, the Wen DF475T, which is dual-fuel (propane) but NOT inverter type, or this Champion 100519, which is quiet inverter type, but NOT dual-fuel (at least not out of the box)? Both around $500

Prioritize power needs over fuel preference; amount and the quality of power required. If you loose power in the winter and must rely on electric space heaters then a 240 volt conventional with at least 6,000 running not surge watts is strongly advised. You can use it to charge battery-inverter banks for your sensitive loads. Conventional generators are far more reliable and durable than inverters especially with heavy continuous loads. The DF475T is too under-powered imo to mess with for b.u.. The wgen7500 remote electric start has been on sale for $535 this year. It is a solid whole house unit.

Propane? Generators will not run in cold conditions on a BBQ tank. The vapor pressure drops too low because the butane content is too high. Unless you have a large LP home tank and will locate the generator near the gas supply you will be running on gasoline in cold conditions.

The igen2500 2200 running watt inverter is fine for most clean power needs and it is far more fuel efficient than this Champion generator. It's also far quieter and easier to store. The issue is having to run extension cords because it is only 120 V.

I was able to get the PG&E power transfer meter to work with a 120 V inverter generator by using a dog bone adapter which jumped the L1 and L2 together on the PG-E supplied L14-30 cord. It worked in one outage but I think what happened was that I forgot to shut off the 240 v breakers in the next outage causing a relay in the meter to fry after which it would not work even with a proper 240 V generator. It was months before they replaced it. Apparently the first gen meter did not check to see if L1 and L2 were different phases but this may have been revised.

Can you tell me more about this dogbone adapter, does it have one end with a standard 120v male plug, and the other end has a 14-30 receptacle for the transfer cable, like this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS-1-ft-15-Amp-Household-Plug-to-L14-30-30-Amp-4-Prong-Transfer-Sw... [homedepot.com] ?

Basically my tankless water heater, furnace, and rangetop are all gas appliances, so only use 120V for ignition or blower, and even the furnace blower is variable-speed that usually stays in low (100W at 120V). So I really only need 120V for most backup. The only 240V are the solar inverter (which must be turned off anyways to not fry the generator via the transfer switch), wall oven, and Tesla charger - so nothing that would be used during an outage. Is there any risk to 240V appliances themselves while using such an adapter, if a 240V breaker is not turned off? Seems like if L1 and L2 are bridged, the 240V appliances would see 0 voltage differential so no power - so the only risk would be to the power transfer meter itself?

Or is there a similar type of adapter that could just supply just one leg, either L1 or L2, from a 120V generator? I might be able to get by with just half of the 120V circuits powered, if it's more foolproof to not damage anything.

I see coupon, clip coupon, click order and go to cart. No discount ☹️

I see the coupon but it's not $506 after, It would have to be $633 before coupon. Is there some other discount?

Coupon is there but price went up:

Order Summary
Items: $721.01
Shipping & handling: $0.00
Your Coupon Savings: -$144.20
Total before tax: $576.81
Estimated tax to be collected: $37.49
Order total: $614.30