Update: This popular deal is still available, now at the lower price of $8.99.
RONGDAXING TECH via Amazon has for Prime Members: Lvetek Wall Outlet Surge Protecter w/ USB Ports (3x USB-A, 1x USB-C) on sale for $9.98 > Now: $8.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member Leo.10 for sharing this deal.
About this product:
Multi-plug wall outlet extender has 5 outlets, plus 4 USB Ports
USB charges 5V 4.2A shared rating
USB A port up to 2.4A
USB C port up to 3A MAX
1680 joules surge protector
3 complementary Surge Protection Circuits, TVS(transient voltage suppressor) MOV(metal oxide varistor) GDT(gas discharge tube) combined with fire-resistant casing (up to 1382℉)
Can secure it on duplex outlet with screw included
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Many arguments exist about whether UL or ETL is "better," but they are both certified testing laboratories and confirm that a product meets certain standards. (the big difference is that UL actually writes those standards, whereas ETL tends to just use them for testing)
Important extract from the above webpage:
"Current taps with class 2 power unit, Model Nos. ...QF-519F..."
"A representative sample of the listed devices have been tested, investigated and found to comply with the requirements of the Standard(s) for Current Taps & Adapters (UL-498A) and are identified with the ETL Listed Mark."
Of course, all of that is assuming that the brand/model listed is genuine (fake products are fake, after all!), but that's always an issue, so YMMV.
The listed rating is 1875W. So, theoretically, you should be able to connect a 1500W heater along with a few other small devices, but take a look a the power consumpion of those devices. Even USB devices (like phones) can draw 50-100W these days.
One thing to note in the listing is that all of the USB ports are limited to 5V only, so no quick charging is supported. From the Amazon listing:
"USB Port Output: DC 5V, Total 4.8A (although this picture shows 4.2A max)
The UCB-C port doesn't support any other devices which need 9~22V charging voltage."
It's just a USB charger. There's no magic circuitry.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank timsy
03-13-2024 at 01:16 PM.
Quote
from axman
:
It could be that Apple products need Apple accessories which have the built-in magic circuit . Otherwise it is very risk to use the general electronic accessories to Apple products.
Or, Apple sees huge profit margins from generating fear-uncertainty-and-doubt to their customers about anything not Apple branded or have paid a fee to Apple. 5V USB is very old, stable tech and it conforms to independent industry standards. Any product that can't be safely charged in my car USB outlet; an airplane seat USB outlet; a charging kiosk in the airport; the non-Apple branded USB port in my laptop; or a generic USB battery bank is an arbitrarily crippled product. Shame on any vender trying to squeeze gullible customers.
Any name brand names ones on sale? I don't trust these Chinese ones, might have a spy camera inside.
Sorry to inform you that the name brand ones are made in China too... Don't need cameras in outlets (save for foot fetishists) as 99.9% of phones and tablets already have cams front and back so there good on coverage...
This one here has a night light integrated for just $3 more for those wanting a little illumination in the dark. Multi Plug Outlet Surge Protector - POWRUI 6 Outlet Extender with 3 USB Ports (1 USB C) and Night Light, 3-Sided Power Strip with Adapter Spaced Outlets - White,ETL Listed https://a.co/d/6IYvj9E
That looks pretty good - 6 plugs, 2 USB-A, and 1 USB-C, plus night light.
Many arguments exist about whether UL or ETL is "better," but they are both certified testing laboratories and confirm that a product meets certain standards. (the big difference is that UL actually writes those standards, whereas ETL tends to just use them for testing)
Important extract from the above webpage:
"Current taps with class 2 power unit, Model Nos. ...QF-519F..."
"A representative sample of the listed devices have been tested, investigated and found to comply with the requirements of the Standard(s) for Current Taps & Adapters (UL-498A) and are identified with the ETL Listed Mark."
Of course, all of that is assuming that the brand/model listed is genuine (fake products are fake, after all!), but that's always an issue, so YMMV.
There's a 1-star review that suggests that maybe "ETL Certified" doesn't, in this case, mean what you think it means. Curious how the listing mentions "ETL Certified" :-) "After Sale Service: ETL Certified,Our friendly and reliable customer service will respond to you within 24 hours."
1.0 out of 5 stars BEWARE! FIRE HAZARD! Flawed internal design!
Reviewed in the United States on February 7, 2024
Color: WhiteVerified Purchase
So, today when my wife plugged in her laptop there was a loud pop and a large amount of sparks from the outlet for about 2-3 seconds before the house breaker tripped. I took the unit off the wall and took it apart and found that the side outlets are basically plastic rails that are not held onto the plastic side very well at all. In these plastic rails runs a thin copper strip for each of the hot, neutral and ground. At the point where the blades of a plug are supposed to mate with the outlet the copper strip is split and formed into a rough shape of the plug blade. Unfortunately, as loose as the copper strips are if you put a plug in at a slight angle you will miss the split in the strip that the blade is supposed to go through and hit the outside of it, flexing it enough that the internal components can touch (in this case, hot to ground) causing arcing and a short. I would not use one of these - choose a better option!
Many arguments exist about whether UL or ETL is "better," but they are both certified testing laboratories and confirm that a product meets certain standards. (the big difference is that UL actually writes those standards, whereas ETL tends to just use them for testing)
Important extract from the above webpage:
"Current taps with class 2 power unit, Model Nos. ...QF-519F..."
"A representative sample of the listed devices have been tested, investigated and found to comply with the requirements of the Standard(s) for Current Taps & Adapters (UL-498A) and are identified with the ETL Listed Mark."
Of course, all of that is assuming that the brand/model listed is genuine (fake products are fake, after all!), but that's always an issue, so YMMV.
UL doesn't test to see if it meets a certain standard. UL tests to see what makes the product fail. UL stands for Underwriters Laboratories. They find the failure conditions of products so that, should the product fail and you make an insurance claim, insurance can decide who was at fault if a particular product is found to have caused the claim. If it was within the range that wouldn't typically cause catastrophic failure, then the product was faulty and it was the manufacturer's fault. If you used it beyond its capabilities, like plugging too many space heaters into one outlet, then they know it was your fault. Fun fact: they actually send everyone an email if they're going to blow something up so the office people can come and watch. Sauce: I have a few friends that worked there. It's basically an entire company of pyros.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Bought several long time ago. Like. Luv the extra plugs, added Cat4/5 plugs. CAVET - Will not plug into a GFCI outlets. My bathroom and kitchen counter outlet are GFCI.
I have used this on the 'down' side of the bathroom and kitchen GFCI outlets. YMMV . . Caution . . Don't if you do not know what this means. IMHO
There's a 1-star review that suggests that maybe "ETL Certified" doesn't, in this case, mean what you think it means. Curious how the listing mentions "ETL Certified" :-) "After Sale Service: ETL Certified,Our friendly and reliable customer service will respond to you within 24 hours."
1.0 out of 5 stars BEWARE! FIRE HAZARD! Flawed internal design!
Reviewed in the United States on February 7, 2024
Color: WhiteVerified Purchase
So, today when my wife plugged in her laptop there was a loud pop and a large amount of sparks from the outlet for about 2-3 seconds before the house breaker tripped. I took the unit off the wall and took it apart and found that the side outlets are basically plastic rails that are not held onto the plastic side very well at all. In these plastic rails runs a thin copper strip for each of the hot, neutral and ground. At the point where the blades of a plug are supposed to mate with the outlet the copper strip is split and formed into a rough shape of the plug blade. Unfortunately, as loose as the copper strips are if you put a plug in at a slight angle you will miss the split in the strip that the blade is supposed to go through and hit the outside of it, flexing it enough that the internal components can touch (in this case, hot to ground) causing arcing and a short. I would not use one of these - choose a better option!
Yep enjoy frying your house and components over a $10 plug extender!
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It is advertised as being ETL certified, which is an NRTL (like UL) that is run by ITS.
https://www.osha.gov/nationally-r...rogram/its
https://www.osha.gov/nationally-r...rogram/ul/
Many arguments exist about whether UL or ETL is "better," but they are both certified testing laboratories and confirm that a product meets certain standards. (the big difference is that UL actually writes those standards, whereas ETL tends to just use them for testing)
Checking ETL's site, this brand/model is listed in the pictures (Lvetek QF-519F):
https://ramuk.intertekc
Important extract from the above webpage:
"Current taps with class 2 power unit, Model Nos. ...QF-519F..."
"A representative sample of the listed devices have been tested, investigated and found to comply with the requirements of the Standard(s) for Current Taps & Adapters (UL-498A) and are identified with the ETL Listed Mark."
Of course, all of that is assuming that the brand/model listed is genuine (fake products are fake, after all!), but that's always an issue, so YMMV.
One thing to note in the listing is that all of the USB ports are limited to 5V only, so no quick charging is supported. From the Amazon listing:
"USB Port Output: DC 5V, Total 4.8A (although this picture shows 4.2A max)
The UCB-C port doesn't support any other devices which need 9~22V charging voltage."
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank timsy
Make sure you can screw it into the outlets or else it'll fall forward tho
It is advertised as being ETL certified, which is an NRTL (like UL) that is run by ITS.
https://www.osha.gov/nationally-r...rogram/its
https://www.osha.gov/nationally-r...rogram/ul/
Many arguments exist about whether UL or ETL is "better," but they are both certified testing laboratories and confirm that a product meets certain standards. (the big difference is that UL actually writes those standards, whereas ETL tends to just use them for testing)
Checking ETL's site, this brand/model is listed in the pictures (Lvetek QF-519F):
https://ramuk.intertekc
Important extract from the above webpage:
"Current taps with class 2 power unit, Model Nos. ...QF-519F..."
"A representative sample of the listed devices have been tested, investigated and found to comply with the requirements of the Standard(s) for Current Taps & Adapters (UL-498A) and are identified with the ETL Listed Mark."
Of course, all of that is assuming that the brand/model listed is genuine (fake products are fake, after all!), but that's always an issue, so YMMV.
There's a 1-star review that suggests that maybe "ETL Certified" doesn't, in this case, mean what you think it means. Curious how the listing mentions "ETL Certified" :-) "After Sale Service: ETL Certified,Our friendly and reliable customer service will respond to you within 24 hours."
1.0 out of 5 stars BEWARE! FIRE HAZARD! Flawed internal design!
Reviewed in the United States on February 7, 2024
Color: WhiteVerified Purchase
So, today when my wife plugged in her laptop there was a loud pop and a large amount of sparks from the outlet for about 2-3 seconds before the house breaker tripped. I took the unit off the wall and took it apart and found that the side outlets are basically plastic rails that are not held onto the plastic side very well at all. In these plastic rails runs a thin copper strip for each of the hot, neutral and ground. At the point where the blades of a plug are supposed to mate with the outlet the copper strip is split and formed into a rough shape of the plug blade. Unfortunately, as loose as the copper strips are if you put a plug in at a slight angle you will miss the split in the strip that the blade is supposed to go through and hit the outside of it, flexing it enough that the internal components can touch (in this case, hot to ground) causing arcing and a short. I would not use one of these - choose a better option!
and google already has everything
It is advertised as being ETL certified, which is an NRTL (like UL) that is run by ITS.
https://www.osha.gov/nationally-r...rogram/its
https://www.osha.gov/nationally-r...rogram/ul/
Many arguments exist about whether UL or ETL is "better," but they are both certified testing laboratories and confirm that a product meets certain standards. (the big difference is that UL actually writes those standards, whereas ETL tends to just use them for testing)
Checking ETL's site, this brand/model is listed in the pictures (Lvetek QF-519F):
https://ramuk.intertekc
Important extract from the above webpage:
"Current taps with class 2 power unit, Model Nos. ...QF-519F..."
"A representative sample of the listed devices have been tested, investigated and found to comply with the requirements of the Standard(s) for Current Taps & Adapters (UL-498A) and are identified with the ETL Listed Mark."
Of course, all of that is assuming that the brand/model listed is genuine (fake products are fake, after all!), but that's always an issue, so YMMV.
UL doesn't test to see if it meets a certain standard. UL tests to see what makes the product fail. UL stands for Underwriters Laboratories. They find the failure conditions of products so that, should the product fail and you make an insurance claim, insurance can decide who was at fault if a particular product is found to have caused the claim. If it was within the range that wouldn't typically cause catastrophic failure, then the product was faulty and it was the manufacturer's fault. If you used it beyond its capabilities, like plugging too many space heaters into one outlet, then they know it was your fault. Fun fact: they actually send everyone an email if they're going to blow something up so the office people can come and watch. Sauce: I have a few friends that worked there. It's basically an entire company of pyros.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Well sure. How else are they supposed to get your Wi-Fi password so the outlet camera can send the video to them?
https://a.co/d/5SwWtWO
5-Outlet Surge Protector Wall Charger with 4 USB Ports - 1680J Multi Plug for Home, Office, Travel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BKHHL5H
Bought several long time ago. Like. Luv the extra plugs, added Cat4/5 plugs. CAVET - Will not plug into a GFCI outlets. My bathroom and kitchen counter outlet are GFCI.
I have used this on the 'down' side of the bathroom and kitchen GFCI outlets. YMMV . . Caution . . Don't if you do not know what this means. IMHO
1.0 out of 5 stars BEWARE! FIRE HAZARD! Flawed internal design!
Reviewed in the United States on February 7, 2024
Color: WhiteVerified Purchase
So, today when my wife plugged in her laptop there was a loud pop and a large amount of sparks from the outlet for about 2-3 seconds before the house breaker tripped. I took the unit off the wall and took it apart and found that the side outlets are basically plastic rails that are not held onto the plastic side very well at all. In these plastic rails runs a thin copper strip for each of the hot, neutral and ground. At the point where the blades of a plug are supposed to mate with the outlet the copper strip is split and formed into a rough shape of the plug blade. Unfortunately, as loose as the copper strips are if you put a plug in at a slight angle you will miss the split in the strip that the blade is supposed to go through and hit the outside of it, flexing it enough that the internal components can touch (in this case, hot to ground) causing arcing and a short. I would not use one of these - choose a better option!
Yep enjoy frying your house and components over a $10 plug extender!
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