Update: This popular front-page deal is available again.
Adorama has
Onkyo TX-RZ30 170W 9.2-Channel 8K/4K Network AV Receiver (TX-RZ30BMDC) on sale for $999.99 - $300 with coupon code
JHCE9834 at checkout (apply under
Do you have a gift card or promo code? during checkout) =
$699.99.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor
iconian for sharing this deal.
About this Item:
- Power and Amplification: 9x 170 W (6 ohms, 1 kHz, 1% THD, 1-ch driven), 9-channel Class AB amplifier, 5 Hz–100 kHz (+1/-3 dB), 9.2-channel processing
- HDMI and Video Inputs: 6 HDMI in/2 out (ARC), 8K/4K Ultra HD, Dolby Vision, HDR10+, HDCP 2.3, HDMI 2.1a (VRR, QFT, ALLM, SBTM), 1 component, 2 composite
- Audio In/Out: 6 RCA, 1 RCA Phono, 1 optical, 1 coaxial, 9.2 ch preouts (2 independent subwoofers), Zone 2 stereo RCA
- Surround and Streaming: Dolby Atmos, Dolby Surround, DTS:X, Neural:X, IMAX Enhanced, Roon Tested, Chromecast, AirPlay 2, Spotify, Amazon Music HD, Tidal, Deezer, TuneIn
- Power Consumption: 760 W max, 50 W idle, <2 W network standby
- Dimensions and Weight: 17.1 x 7 x 15.1 in (43.4 x 17.78 x 38.35 cm), 25.4 lbs (11.5 kg)
Top Comments
Is everyone paying shipping, or am I doing something wrong?
Edit: tried to use paypal, that added shipping. switched to credit card, no shipping charge
Community Reviews
The TX RZ30 is a strong value 9 channel AVR for Atmos setups, especially if you want Dirac room correction and dual independent sub outs. It is repeatedly framed as a better fit than pricier Denon and Yamaha alternatives when you do not need more than 9 channels, and the included calibration is praised for improving sound after setup. The main cautions are extra Dirac costs for Bass Control, a learning curve, and recurring concern about Onkyo HDMI reliability and shipping or warranty hassles. A solid pick for a modern 5.1.4 or 5.2.4 system if those tradeoffs fit.
The receiver can process up to nine channels, which fits common 5.1.4 Atmos-style layouts well.
The RZ30 includes Dirac Live Bass Control access via A1EVO Express, which can reduce the need for a separate $300 DLBC purchase.
The unit offers dual independent sub outputs, which supports more flexible subwoofer integration than models without that feature.
A coupon code reportedly applied successfully and reduced the total cost by $300 in at least one purchase.
Onkyo HDMI reliability is a concern based on past experiences, including HDMI handshake failures and repair workarounds.
Warranty service may require paying shipping to a service center even during warranty coverage, which can be expensive for a heavy receiver.
Shipping may not be free at checkout, since PayPal reportedly added a shipping charge while a credit card removed it.
Dirac Live Bass Control reportedly does not include Dirac subwoofer/bass correction and instead relies on AVR bass management for sub calibration.
Common Questions (5)
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
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142 Comments
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that said none of my stuff is up to date anymore feature-wise and this onkyo is so i get it. and it's not that onkyo is bad but their inability to handshake hdmi for YEARS and me replacing capacitors for people has left a bad taste in my mouth.
These are problems I experienced personally with Onkyos around 2010-2015. Since I was in electronics sales I had a high number of friends also in the same store/industry and Onkyo was a prevalent choice. As well as I had armed my family with them too since they were a big brand but slickdeals made them quite affordable for the features so my brother and dad had various lower end units from them.
Pretty much everyone had handshake issues with hdmi meaning if you turn on your devices in the wrong sequence or at the wrong speed, you got no picture or or no sound and that was pretty much from new. Firmwares helped but didnt always fix.
Some of the higher end units I fixed. Those got to the point of having to leave them on for 10, 20 mins before they would show picture. These were usually bad hdmi boards/overheated or failed caps. I fixed caps on 3 of them. I never fixed any of the lower end ones, the work around was just to stop using HDMI and set video to tv and audio out via optical.
I feel like the problem spanned 5-7 years hence my annoyance with that brand and why i swore them off. My favorite part is I've never owned one but have fixed or implemented work arounds for 6 people.
This is in the past so I'm sure it's resolved these days (or atleast hope it would be) so you shouldn't worry. I just have rage so I wont let it go.
These are problems I experienced personally with Onkyos around 2010-2015. Since I was in electronics sales I had a high number of friends also in the same store/industry and Onkyo was a prevalent choice. As well as I had armed my family with them too since they were a big brand but slickdeals made them quite affordable for the features so my brother and dad had various lower end units from them.
Pretty much everyone had handshake issues with hdmi meaning if you turn on your devices in the wrong sequence or at the wrong speed, you got no picture or or no sound and that was pretty much from new. Firmwares helped but didnt always fix.
Some of the higher end units I fixed. Those got to the point of having to leave them on for 10, 20 mins before they would show picture. These were usually bad hdmi boards/overheated or failed caps. I fixed caps on 3 of them. I never fixed any of the lower end ones, the work around was just to stop using HDMI and set video to tv and audio out via optical.
I feel like the problem spanned 5-7 years hence my annoyance with that brand and why i swore them off. My favorite part is I've never owned one but have fixed or implemented work arounds for 6 people.
For only 9 channels, In my experience, no not really.
Generally speaking, the extra power is a minimal advantage in real world use.
I've set this up with a 9 channel Primes & drove them with no problem at average listening levels.
Imo I would spend the extra $200 on DLBC or improving a weak link speaker(s) if you have one.
You think that $300 bass add-on is worth it if I only have one subwoofer?
Thanks again!
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There are significant differences between those two, one being room correction.
6 years ago Dirac RCs would have cost you a nice chunk of change.
Proper sub/bass integration/correction is thee most crucial for a proper setup.
DLBC does such a good job, imo is the main reason to switch to Dirac.
The versatility it offers is another.
There is a lot more to it than just distance especially when you add more than one sub & you have parallel sub outs like that Yamaha.
Having independent sub outs is a significant benefit for all this ime.
Here is a comparison to see the feature differences.
https://www.zkelectroni
I waited a while in those late 2000s early 20-teens for adopting a receiver with HDMI of my own. I had separate amp and preamp (no HDMI) then eventually dropped to a beast of a Harmon Kardon receiver that I loved the audio Q on (again no hdmi) instead opting for an HDMI switch programmed by my harmony remote for just video signal.
I went with a Yamaha RX-A3070 back in 2017 or so finally and it's been perfect in terms of HDMI. I cant think of a single time where I press TV on the harmony and i'm missing audio/video/both. The only thing that surprised me about the yamaha was how underpowered it felt was compared to my previous amps. I'm finally considering upgrading again simply due to wanting higher bandwidth passthrough (4k 144hz or so to match tv or beyond possibly). I'll admit I spend no time thinking about all the latest sound features like whatever Dirac is.
Especially since technically you don't have to run through a new calibration.
I would point out Dirac has a learning curve which causes confusion.
It also causes a lot of misunderstanding/misinformation which adds to the confusion.
One being the performance of what DLBC does & offers.
Here is imo thee best calibration process to follow regarding Dirac.
Toward the end he talks about why people often believe there is an issue with DLBC.
Hits the nail on the head(like everything else) regarding it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjWZUZ1
Dirac is costly & has a learning curve.
You need DL for speakers($350) + DLBC for sub/bass ($300) for proper implementation imo.
Before upgrading I would recommend looking into A1EVO before doing so.
It basically gives Dirac performance of both DL&DLBC for free!
A1EVO Express is the easiest to use and does very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fN5cH_T
You think that $300 bass add-on is worth it if I only have one subwoofer?
Thanks again!
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You think that $300 bass add-on is worth it if I only have one subwoofer?
Thanks again!
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Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!