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DuctlessAire 12 Seer 12000 BTU 220V 1-Ton Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner Expired

$779
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+57 Deal Score
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Home Depot has DuctlessAire 12 Seer 12000 BTU 220V 1-Ton Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner & Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter w/ WiFi (DA1221-H2) for $779. Shipping is free.

Thanks to community member david3808 for finding this deal.

Included:
  • Copper tubing w/ insulation and nuts
  • Control wire
  • 6' drain hose
  • Wall sleeve
  • Wall sleeve cover and tape
Good Deal?

Original Post

Written by
Edited May 22, 2021 at 05:15 PM by
Rated 4.9 out of 5 stars on Home Depot (931 reviews)
Pre-charged condenser for the DIYers

2 part installation video.
part 1: https://youtu.be/iFBmh29GezU
part 2: https://youtu.be/Uh9bcdpU8gw

part 2 walks you through checking lines for leaks and vacuuming:
https://youtu.be/Uh9bcdpU8gw?t=516

Installation Manual - page 29 has the Air Evacuation instructions:
https://ductlessaire.com/wp-conte...lation.pdf

15% to 28% off
$697 - 21 SEER 9, 000 BTU 0.75 Ton Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner with Heat Pump - 230-Volt/60 Hz OOS
$779 - 21 SEER 12,000 BTU 1 Ton Wi-Fi Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter - 220V/60Hz
$999 - 19 SEER 24000 BTU 2 Ton Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner with Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter - 220-Volt
$1019 - 21 SEER 18,000 BTU 1.5 Ton Wi-Fi Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter - 220V/60Hz
$1199 - 21 SEER 24,000 BTU Wi-Fi Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter - 220V/60Hz

https://www.homedepot.com/Special...uyOfTheDay
  • 21.5 SEER rating ENERGY STAR certified: estimated national average annual operating cooling cost is 70 USD based on AHRI certificate #9150138
  • Package includes: stylishly designed interior white wall-mount air handler with LED display; exterior pre-charged condenser with special golden anti-corrosive coating coils; wireless remote control for customizable airflow and temperature adjustment; 25 ft. complete kit
  • 25 ft. kit includes: copper tubing with insulation and nuts, control wire, 6 ft. drain hose, wall sleeve, wall sleeve cover and tape
  • Electroplated coils: the electroplated hydrophilic coils improve heating efficiency by accelerating the defrosting process; the unique anti-corrosive coating on the coils also aids in withstanding the effects of salty air, rain and other corrosive elements by allowing contaminated water on the coils to run off more quickly, reducing the corrosive effect to the coils; heat exchange performance is much longer lasting
  • Low ambient operation: a special built-in low ambient kit can be used in temperatures as low as 5°F for cooling operation, useful for users who need to maintain cooling during winter
  • Refrigerant leak detection: with this new technology, the system will alarm when a refrigerant leak is detected
  • Dual sensor fixed or remote: by switching to remote sensor and keeping the remote close to you, you tell the air conditioner to set the temperature from wherever the remote happens to be, this counteracts the tendency for the air conditioner to stop cooling or heating because the air around the unit has reached its set temperature (switches off after period of inactivity to preserve battery life)
  • HEPA filter included (1): a HEPA filter is a type of mechanical air filter; it works by forcing air through a fine mesh that traps harmful particles such as pollen, pet dander, dust mites and tobacco smoke
  • 2-direction air vane technology: in cooling mode the air vane opens counterclockwise to direct air horizontally, allowing for an even cooling effect; in heating mode the air vane opens clockwise, directing air downward, this time for a uniform heating effect
  • Built-in electronic diagnostic: monitoring some abnormal operations or parts failures, microcomputer of the air conditioner will switch off and protect the system automatically; meanwhile, the error or protection code will be displayed on the indoor unit
  • Outdoor pan heater: a heating belt is fitted on the base plate of the outdoor unit to avoid accumulation of rain, snow or water on the base plate
  • Dual washable filters: a good air conditioner should not only take care of the temperature in your home but also the quality of the air you breathe; the system aids in removing most of the pollen dust, smoke and other microscopic airborne particles that by latest thinking contribute to respiratory problems like asthma and hay fever
  • Self-cleaning: by pressing clean on the remote control, it automatically cleans the evaporator to aid in reducing buildup of bacteria and keeps the air fresh
  • Sleep mode: in sleep mode, the unit automatically decreases the heating or increases the cooling by 1° per hour for the first 2 hours of use, then holds the temperature steady for 5 hours before ceasing
  • Low noise airflow system: without decreasing the airflow volume and capacity output, the large-diameter cross flow fan can bring down the indoor unit noise level by lowering the fan speed
  • Anti-cold draft: if the unit is turned on in heat mode when the ambient temperature is low, it will warm up prior to fan operation to prevent cold air in heating mode
  • Louver position memory: the set louver position is stored in memory by the microcomputer and the louver returns to the stored position when the next operation is performed
  • Turbo mode: this function enables the unit to reach the preset temperature in the shortest time
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Featured Comments

I bought a 2-head Senville 22 SER unit last month and came to the conclusion it makes sense to install it myself versus paying an installer. I too am in Los Angeles.

This works if you're handy since you'll probably do a better job. Doing things like a nitrogen pressure test, which aren't stated in the manual, is a good practice that many installers will skip unless it's explicitly stated in the manual like in some Mitsubishi units. This practice makes sense for heat pump R410A units which will see upwards of 450 psi on the head when in heat pump mode. But expect to spend $500-$700 on tools if you want to do it right.

Edit: if you want me to comment more on the tools I went with, let me know.
Edit Edit: As promised, I posted my tools breakdown reply on #99 of this thread, but I'm also going to post it below too. If this angers the mods then please remove post #99.



Everyone can decide what you need for your install versus others, but here's the tools that I bought for mine:


Nitrogen Tank w/ Regulator (got on Craigslist)1 $ 100.00
Appion CTEE14 MegaSeal Low-Loss Charging T-Fitting - 1/4'1 $ 49.94
Appion MGAVCR Mega Flow Vacuum Rated Valve Core Removal Tool – 5/16" System Connection1 $ 48.48
CPS VG200: Vacuum Micron Gauge with Digital LCD Display1 $ 146.21
Refrigeration Technologies RT201B Nylog Gasket/Thread Sealant1 $ 10.25
Yellow Jacket 42004 Series 41 Manifold with 3-1/8" Gauge, psi, R-22/404A/410A1 $ 112.29
Yellow Jacket 19173 R-410 5/16" to 1/4" coupler w/ schrader valve.1 $ 14.26
CPS Pro-Set R410A Flare Gauge1 $ 19.81
CPS BLACKMAX BFT850 Ultra-Lightweight R-410A Clutch-Type Ecentric Flaring Tool1 $ 130.03
Reed Tool DEBO Pencil Shape Deburring Tool for Copper1$11.68
RIDGID 32975 Model 103 Close Quarters Tubing Cutter, 1/8-inch to 5/8-inch Tube Cutter , Silver , Small1$12.67
Johnsen's 6915 Vacuum Pump Oil - 12 oz.1 $ 9.79
PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 3 CFM Two Stage Vacuum Pump1 $ 149.99
PITTSBURGH 3/8 In. Metric Crowfoot Wrench Set, 7 Pc.1 $ 9.99

For mine, it was a total of $825-ish, with it being more like $900 after tax. But I bought multiple things that most people don't need to buy, marked in italics, so you can save a lot of money skipping these. These optional tools represent an additional $372.61 ($400.55 after tax, at least where I live) you can eliminate about 50% from the tools budget.

First and foremost, don't attempt to work with electrical or HVAC unless you're pretty comfortable with DIY projects.

The Nitrogen tank is optional for pressure testing. Some say if you can pull a good vacuum and let it sit for a while that is "good enough" and most company's instructions exclude this from the installation instructions. But it's worth considering because when running R-410A in heat pump mode, you'll get high pressure across your head side of the loop. This makes sense because the high-pressure side = heat. So in my head it made sense you'd want to do a pressurization test and a vacuum down test, since one is pushing apart the fittings (pressure) and the other is sucking them together (vacuum). Since the fittings will all be exposed to both types of pressures it makes sense for me. Follow Dakine or Mitsubishi installation manual instructions for nitrogen pressure testing if you opt to do it. Note that most professional installers WILL SKIP THIS unless it's a unit that requires it (think Mitsubishi) and the installer is one of their "diamond" approved installers or whatever.

Secondly, I bought a flaring tool because I had a 2-head system and cut the tubing to fit the installation and make it more tidy. This is optional and I do not recommend it unless you know what you're doing. It also saves money to skip this. Before cutting, you need to make sure your run or runs have the required length to prevent overcharging the system. If you have a single head unit and end up cutting the tubes to 1/2 the length you may have too much refrigerant in the linesets. Refer to your manual or talk to the company before you decide to do this. And if you decide to do it anyways, yes it must be a HVAC specific flaring tool. Get one with the clutch system to prevent overtightening the flare press and make it foolproof. R-410A runs at too high of pressures to get away with subpar flares. Deciding to just accept the standard length of the copper tubing eliminates the costs associated with the Flaring tool, flaring gauge, deburring tool, and pipe cutting tool.

As for the rest, you do not NEED a digital micron gauge, many just use their normal gauge set's low pressure side gage and watch to see if the needle moves. This will also work. Again I wanted to go with professional duty equipment to get an install I'm 100% confident in. That way if the thing dies in a few years I won't have wonder in the back of my mind whether I screwed up the install. I know 100% my install was perfect. I went with the Yellow Jacket brand gauges, although you could in theory just get the low side gauge, hose, and valve if you're just pulling vacuum and save some money. I'm sure the garden variety chinesium brand gauges are probably perfectly fine for a solo install and will cut the cost in half for them.

The Appion Schrader core removal tool and the t-valve are totally optional too. You'd have to do some youtubing to see how they're used, but here's a great video which shows essentially the same setup I bought: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81EeY7SFYJc

But you can skip those tools and just use the Yellow Jacket 5/16" to 1/4" adapter and be just fine without them. Your pressure drawdown will just take a bit longer since you're going through the Schrader valve, and you'll loose a tiny bit of refrigerant before the schrader valve closes. Skipping these tools will save you $130-$140.

For the vacuum pump I went with a harbor freight 3CFM rated 2-stage vacuum pump. I believe it's rated for sub-30 microns of vacuum which is great, and a review on their site showed a guy pulling 13 microns if I recall correctly. To put this into perspective most manufacturers suggest pulling below 500 microns before charging the system. This is slightly overkill but it works for me.

Lastly I already have a torque wrench but you can get them dirt cheap from harbor freight, and I bought some crowfoot wrenches to use with my torque wrench to torque the bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. Will it really matter if you don't do it to spec? I don't know but I'm not finding out.

Then beyond all of this you'll have to run some 220-240v and have a disconnect box by your run. If you're not a confident DIY'er don't go for this, but if you are then just watch plenty of videos of installations, follow the instructions, and you'll be fine.
Having a precharged condenser is no big deal; I believe all mini splits are sold that way. In fact, large (residential) ducted A/Cs ship that way as well. But to DIY this, you'll need a vacuum pump to evacuate the air from the line set before you release the refrigerant. I have done a couple of installs of mini splits (not this brand), and it's not that difficult, but you do need to understand exactly what you're doing. Do some reading before you decide to buy this.
Taking a quick stab:

Pros-
No duct work is obvious.
On demand which can save heating/cooling bill.
More precise temperature control "zones".

Cons-
The zones play as double edge sword, when moving in or out the heated/air conditioned space takes some getting used to.
The indoor unit hangs on the wall compare to just a register, so the wall is more or less occupied.
Have to run additional electricity to both in door and outdoor units and the tubes from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit.
More filters to clean.

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Joined Aug 2013
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> bubble2 276 Posts
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BENJAMINB1246
05-24-2021 at 09:52 PM.
05-24-2021 at 09:52 PM.
Quote from dvpatel :
Yeah. Lots of misinformation including your's.

The Mr. Cool units do not have anything in the linesets either. The only difference is the Mr. Cool linesets are vacuumed and sealed and have valves which open up when you connect them. So, you do not need to vacuum the Mr. Cool units. The rest of the lot has open lines and once you connect them, you still have to vacuum the lines regardless of if you cut them or not.

The reason Mr. Cool lines can't be cut is because of the special valves at each end which keep the lines sealed during shipment.
MrCool DIY linesets aren't vacuumed. They come precharged with the exact amount of refrigerant, down to the ounce, for that particular length. Otherwise you would have to weigh in a charge for every lineset you added.
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BENJAMINB1246
05-24-2021 at 10:04 PM.
05-24-2021 at 10:04 PM.
Quote from geekwithoutacause :
I don't recall seeing the coils needing to sit horizontal in the mrcool documentation. Are you sure?
you always have to lay the extra coil horizontal, it's in the manual somewhere. If you don't you run the risk of oil sitting in the bottom of the loops instead of returning to the compressor; and no oil is very bad. There can be other issues as well. Though sometimes you are required to have an oil trap, but that's not the same as having extra coils.
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BENJAMINB1246
05-24-2021 at 10:58 PM.
05-24-2021 at 10:58 PM.
Quote from PlanetoftheMapes :
It's not flat-out illegal, this is a case where "it depends". You can use the main breaker as a feeder circuit and split the circuit down the line to serve both units IF and ONLY IF the breaker has the capacity to serve both of the units AND you properly fuse the disconnects for the downstream units.
This is a good answer. I've never seen an AHJ nix this unless there were other devices that they didn't want on there. I'm pretty sure the NEC doesn't require you to match the feeder conductor ampacity (wire size) to the main breaker either, but I'd have to check. Of course the AHJ might require it. (HVAC is one of the few times you can use a larger breaker than normal. You might use a 30-40 amp breaker with 12 gauge wire; it's all up to the HVAC equipment manufacturer)
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> bubble2 3,318 Posts
Deal Hound
05-25-2021 at 04:32 AM.
05-25-2021 at 04:32 AM.
Quote from BENJAMINB1246 :
Last time I checked, installing a computer motherboard isn't regulated by the govt. HVAC on the otherhand is regulated. These companies have the right to require that their equipment be installed how they say according to govt and industry standards, and one way of insuring this is to require authorized installers. Even the FTC says this when they say manufacturers can't require you to "use specified parts or service providers to keep their warranties intact". "Specified service providers" doesn't mean that anyone and everyone is allowed to be a service provider; it just means the warranty can't require you to use a particular service provider out of all the eligible service providers.

I also don't think you understand how easy it is to destroy a unit ir the diagnostic criteria that goes into HVAC. More often than not, a tech won't even know the exact cause for defect in a part. And what do you think happens when the part is sent back to the manufacturer? Do you really think they're going to know if it was installed improperly? It's not easy or cheap to tear apart a compressor. They'll know why it doesn't work, but they'll probably won't be able to figure out what caused the malfunction.

Not sure why people keep bringing this stuff up. It's not like any of this warranty stuff is new. It was in place before, and hasn't changed since the Act was passed 45 yrs ago. Do people really think these companies have blatantly been violating the Act for almost a half a century with no one catching on? Come-on, think about.
I think you are right that it just means they can't require you to use particular service providers. Re-reading the actual text of Magnuson-Moss, it only says warrantors can't condition the warranty on articles or services identified by brand, trade, or corporate name. It looks like they are okay here since they haven't used a brand, trade, or corporate name. Actually, this particular product's warranty might not be fully in compliance. It did say a NATE certification would be acceptable in areas where licensing isn't required, and "NATE" is a corporate name. But, indeed, it appears Magnuson-Moss doesn't prohibit requiring a licensed installer.

From Magnuson-Moss:
Quote :
Prohibition on conditions for written or implied warranty; waiver by Commission. No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer's using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name.
The interpretation I quoted before from the FTC's site saying companies can't deny warranty coverage for using someone not authorized to perform service is misleading. The act's actual text implies companies can deny warranty coverage for using someone not authorized to perform service as long as the warranty doesn't identify who is authorized by brand, trade, or corporate name.

I do have some familiarity with the causes of failures in HVAC systems and what happens when parts are sent back to the manufacturer under warranty. One of the most interesting things about returned compressors is that a large percentage of them aren't actually defective [compressorsunlimited.com]. These are presumably professional licensed contractors who return perfectly good compressors about a third of the time. Magnuson-Moss aside, I think it's unfortunate that a manufacturer is willing to deal with a licensed jackleg who can't even tell if a compressor is good or bad on warranties but not the end user who is the person who actually owns and uses the equipment. But 99% of consumers don't care, so I'm sure that's the way it will stay.

Manufacturers do tend to inspect expensive components like compressors that are returned more often than you might think. The likelihood is fairly high that they will tear down a compressor that is replaced more than once from the same piece of equipment under warranty. The likelihood of two compressors failing in the same piece of equipment from a manufacturing defect in the compressor is less than a person's likelihood of getting struck by lightning. If they can ascertain the failure was not caused by a manufacturing defect, there's a good chance they will refuse to reimburse the contractor. In a lot of cases, they actually can determine why a compressor failed and if it was a manufacturing defect. Different causes of failures leave some pretty telltale signs. This document [mechanicalsupply.com] gives some good examples. I think it's fascinating what can be divined from failed compressors in particular. I liken it to what the NTSB can tell from aircraft wreckage.

Given the way so many companies have openly violated Magnuson-Moss (e.g. the infamous warranty void stickers) for long periods of time, I wouldn't have been all that surprised if these warranties had actually been in violation. I guess the class action lawyers would have shown up by now, though, and made sure everyone got their coupon for $1.99 off their next equipment purchase.
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geekwithoutacause
05-25-2021 at 06:23 AM.
05-25-2021 at 06:23 AM.
Quote from BENJAMINB1246 :
Maybe you should do some research before commenting. I've been in HVAC for almost 20 yrs, have installed 100's of mini splits, and have serviced countless numbers of them. So I think I might know what I'm talking about.

1st, 12k is massive for 300 sq ft (obviously I don't know his load or what he has in there, but a quick manual j for my area puts it at about 2,000 btu's.)

2nd, almost all basements already have a high RH and when you start cooling it it gets worse unless the unit runs long enough to remove it. Short cycling will make it worse.

3rd, this is an INVERTER COMPRESSOR. You might want to read up on them. They ARE designed to run all the time. I couldn't find the exact specs for this unit, so I don't know what the minimum flow is. They also don't specify if they use some type of fuzzy control or a basic delta T. So it is possible that their lowest flow is still fairly high. But nevertheless it's designed to keep running.
https://www.anracelectrical.com.a...verter-ac/
I guess you never learned anything in 20 years then because here you go, saying 12k is big for 300 sqft yet you have no idea about all other factors like insulation windows, windows facing south, etc etc etc....

oh looky here: too much HUMIDITY left causes the room to feel clammy when your AC is too big. You claimed there is NO humidity.
https://www.sansone-ac.com/ac-too-big/

hint, focus on VARIABLE SPEED.

You need to go back to ac school.
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calxtreme
05-25-2021 at 12:28 PM.
05-25-2021 at 12:28 PM.
Isn't the MrCool Advantage 12k unit essentially the same unit but cheaper than this? The DuctlessAire was $779, but the MrCool is $717. Both you have to vacuum out.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MRCOO.../308810702

Costco did have great pricing for their 12k DIY unit that runs off of 115VAC for $1099, but those are not currently out of stock.
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BENJAMINB1246
05-25-2021 at 12:31 PM.
05-25-2021 at 12:31 PM.
Quote from geekwithoutacause :
I guess you never learned anything in 20 years then because here you go, saying 12k is big for 300 sqft yet you have no idea about all other factors like insulation windows, windows facing south, etc etc etc....

oh looky here: too much HUMIDITY left causes the room to feel clammy when your AC is too big. You claimed there is NO humidity.
https://www.sansone-ac.com/ac-too-big/

hint, focus on VARIABLE SPEED.

You need to go back to ac school.
And just how long have you been licensed and worked in HVACR.

Where did I say there wasn't any humidity??? Did you not read my 2nd statement where I said most basements already have high RH and that short cycling can make it worse???

How many manual J's have you done??? If you've done even one you'd know 12K for 300 sq ft is probably grossly oversized. Especially for a basement that typically doesn't have many windows or doors or infiltration. They also generally don't have exposed walls except for the top couple of feet. You would also know that insulation in a basement mostly affects heat loss, not heat gain. But then again, you apparently didn't read my 1st statement where I said I didn't know this guys load, but provided one for my location.

Lastly, learn to do research. Do you even know what variable speed means. First you said they don't always run. Now I'm not sure what you're trying to say. Is it that they do run all the time? or that it will run like a standard A/C cycling on and off, only at a slower speed??? I only ask, because again, you didn't read my 3rd statement. I stated that I couldn't find the exact specs. But apparently you know something that no one else does. So let me ask you this. You say it's variable, so what is it's btu range? Variable inverter compressors can be 2 speed, multi speed, or completely variable. Just looking at one 12k mitsu unit has a btu range of 13.6k to 1.6k. Other units only go down to 65%, some 40%. So unless you know what its range is you have NO idea how this unit will perform. This unit also doesn't list dehumidification levels at anything other than 12K. (hint: TC and SC change as the inverter ramps up and down)
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Last edited by BENJAMINB1246 May 25, 2021 at 12:33 PM.

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Joined Aug 2013
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BENJAMINB1246
05-25-2021 at 01:08 PM.
05-25-2021 at 01:08 PM.
Quote from Deal Hound :
I think you are right that it just means they can't require you to use particular service providers. Re-reading the actual text of Magnuson-Moss, it only says warrantors can't condition the warranty on articles or services identified by brand, trade, or corporate name. It looks like they are okay here since they haven't used a brand, trade, or corporate name. Actually, this particular product's warranty might not be fully in compliance. It did say a NATE certification would be acceptable in areas where licensing isn't required, and "NATE" is a corporate name. But, indeed, it appears Magnuson-Moss doesn't prohibit requiring a licensed installer.

Yeah, I didn't see that. NATE is just testing certification (like being certified in Microsoft or something like that). IMOP it's more of a marketing gimmick (not that the testing is necessarily easy). Funny thing is, in many places to get your HVAC license all you need is insurance and your EPA cert. No other training is required. My city used require x number of hours of experience (and a test I think). The electrical license also required hours and a test (and it was a very hard test. I don't know who wrote it, but there was stuff on there that I have never once used, engineering type shit). Now they only require insurance.

And your absolute right about the compressors. We had one rep tell us that somewhere around 90% of their "failed" compressors were still good. On a good install it's either going to run forever or die fairly quickly. Compressors and capacitors can be finicky; and one guy I worked with would replace any unit that didn't run without first trying another capacitor. After he learned that a "good" capacitor isn't always good his replacement rate completely dropped.
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ctn049
06-01-2021 at 07:09 PM.
06-01-2021 at 07:09 PM.
Anyone's order shipped yet?
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smr13
06-01-2021 at 09:11 PM.
06-01-2021 at 09:11 PM.
Quote from ctn049 :
Anyone's order shipped yet?

Yeah, received mine today via freight. Came on a pallet.
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addoil127
06-03-2021 at 08:35 AM.
06-03-2021 at 08:35 AM.
Had a system installed couple weeks ago by a local contractor for whole house for $7200 using Mitsubishi units. The contractor gave us a discount as my cousin knew them. Think these were SEER rating of 18.

2 outdoor units: MXZ-2C20NA2 and MXZ-3C24NA2
5 indoor units: 4 of GL09NA and 1 of GL12NA
Everything was installed in one day by 3 people.

Another company with similar Fujitsu units quoted us $9800 for everything.

These ductless are so much quieter than the window AC we had used the past years. Should also save lots in electrical bill this summer.
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sdwatcher1027
06-06-2021 at 03:18 PM.
06-06-2021 at 03:18 PM.
Quote from ctn049 :
Anyone's order shipped yet?

Yes, received mine on Thursday (4 days ago)
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palindrome
06-07-2021 at 07:12 PM.
06-07-2021 at 07:12 PM.
Quote from PlanetoftheMapes :
This is correct, the condensers still hold the charge in the MRCOOL DIY units as far as I'm aware and the line sets are what are vacuumed just like you said.
I called mrcool and verified that the refrigerant is in their lineset for extensions.. the first 16' is from the condenser. It is how you can still diy with extending linesets, there is a special coupler and the additional refrigerant is already included.
Don't get the DIY mrcool confused with the advantage or other models.

The conventional method if you wanted to extend it is call someone or add refrigerant yourself based on the additional lineset length, otherwise it won't cool/heat as much since it doesn't have the correct amount of refrigerant flowing around.
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PlanetoftheMapes
06-08-2021 at 07:27 PM.
06-08-2021 at 07:27 PM.
Quote from palindrome :
I called mrcool and verified that the refrigerant is in their lineset for extensions.. the first 16' is from the condenser. It is how you can still diy with extending linesets, there is a special coupler and the additional refrigerant is already included.
Don't get the DIY mrcool confused with the advantage or other models.

The conventional method if you wanted to extend it is call someone or add refrigerant yourself based on the additional lineset length, otherwise it won't cool/heat as much since it doesn't have the correct amount of refrigerant flowing around.
Yes, if someone feels uncomfortable with doing a standard HVAC install then the DIY MRCOOL units are a good option for them.
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jimschoice
07-08-2021 at 11:41 PM.
07-08-2021 at 11:41 PM.
Quote from Bboy486 :
Facing north. 2-car. I'm going to try it and see if it helps at all
We have an 18000 Mitusbishi in our 2 car garage in Palm Springs. When it was 122 out a week or so ago, it kept the garage at 83 degrees. The remote control thermostat isn't the most accurate on this, so I keep it set at 84, and the temp I see across the garage is between 80 and 82.
Our garage door faces west, so I painted it white a year ago, and that made a big difference. It is a steel door that I added the insulating panels to. We also insulated the ceiling when the mini split was installed. It is a finished garage, one half is storage and workshop, the other half is where we park our electric car, so that was the reason for having the AC. Water heater, central AC and solar inverter are all in there too, and two of them give off heat.

I questioned whether the 18000 would handle the garage, but they told me it would, and if it didn't, they would upgrade it to the 24000. Two years in, and it has been great.

When we pull the car in after it has been out in the heat for hours, the unit ramps up and I haven't seen it go above 85 in there for about an hour. The car is plugged in at that point and running its AC unit to cool down the battery pack and electronics as well, so it is pumping heat into the garage and the mini-split is transferring it outside.

It did cost $4,000 for the unit to be installed with a new electric ciruit run to it, a trench to run the lines under ground to the outdoor unit, and the insulation in the ceiling. We could have gotten a Samsung for $200 less, or a Daiken for $1000 more. But, wanted the Mitsubishi. Wish I had a couple of them to cool the house, or at least the bedroom at night instead of running the 5 ton beast!
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