Our research indicates that at the time of this post, that Stens 1/2" Oil Drain Plug (125-508) is $1.73 lower (~21.5% savings) than the next best available price from a reputable merchant with prices starting from $8.03
About this product:
Oil Drain Valve, 3/8"-18 NPTF, Push to close, Quick and easy way to change oil without the mess, Quick twist and pull motion to open, Uses 1/2" hose,
Specs: Description: Oil Drain Valve, 3/8"-18 NPTF, Push to close, Quick and easy way to change oil without the mess, Quick twist and pull motion to open, Uses 1/2" hose, Made By: An OEM Supplier
Stens branded parts are trusted by professional dealers to perform OEM quality repairs. The Stens name is featured on all Genuine Stens product packaging.
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05-10-2022 at 11:00 AM.
From the reviews:
Quote
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I run a small engine shop and I install these all the time for customers. The most important thing you need to know is that the OEM's install these BEFORE the engine goes in the frame. If you're going to install/replace one on an engine that is already in the chassis, you're more than likely going to have to undo the four engine mounting bolts and raise the engine 4-6" to have enough clearance to do a proper install. The threads are 3/8" NPTF (National Pipe Thread fuel). Pipe threads are tapered to form the seal. The hex head does NOT have to touch the block to form the seal. Some Honda and Kawasaki engines use METRIC threads that are straight cut and use an o-ring/washer for the seal. They usually have a flat machined boss around the drain opening to accept the o-ring, but not always.
This reminds me of a few years ago when changing my oil wasn't exactly on my radar because I was a new snowblower owner. Well, let's face it, this was my first piece of equipment with a gas engine. So I'm just minding my snow blowing business, and my snowblower blows the connecting rod out through the side of the crank case. I think I had some water in there.
Off to harbor freight for a replacement engine, and one of these "easier to change the oil" plug replacements was installed.
But now I can't remember if I put synthetic or conventional in there, and I'm not sure what the implications of that are, but I know I should change the oil.
Made in USA as well - good deal. I have a Honda and Honda is not listed, but... even of it was, I'm not sure I'd want to take the time to install this.
This is exactly what i was going to point out. Mine was leaking years ago when delivered and it needed fixed. Easiest thing to do was unbolt the engine from frame and jack it up a few inches for clearance. I think it took a 15/16 deep socket. It was definitely a pain.
This reminds me of a few years ago when changing my oil wasn't exactly on my radar because I was a new snowblower owner. Well, let's face it, this was my first piece of equipment with a gas engine. So I'm just minding my snow blowing business, and my snowblower blows the connecting rod out through the side of the crank case. I think I had some water in there.
Off to harbor freight for a replacement engine, and one of these "easier to change the oil" plug replacements was installed.
But now I can't remember if I put synthetic or conventional in there, and I'm not sure what the implications of that are, but I know I should change the oil.
This reminds me of a few years ago when changing my oil wasn't exactly on my radar because I was a new snowblower owner. Well, let's face it, this was my first piece of equipment with a gas engine. So I'm just minding my snow blowing business, and my snowblower blows the connecting rod out through the side of the crank case. I think I had some water in there.
Off to harbor freight for a replacement engine, and one of these "easier to change the oil" plug replacements was installed.
But now I can't remember if I put synthetic or conventional in there, and I'm not sure what the implications of that are, but I know I should change the oil.
You are just changing it based on time unless you are putting an abnormally massive numbers of hours on that snowblower. Oil type won't matter for those changes.
Just to be clear this isn't something you can simply screw in from the outside of the drain right? You have to either painstakingly lift the engine or take it to a shop?
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank bakersdozen12
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank RugerRedhawk
Off to harbor freight for a replacement engine, and one of these "easier to change the oil" plug replacements was installed.
But now I can't remember if I put synthetic or conventional in there, and I'm not sure what the implications of that are, but I know I should change the oil.
This is exactly what i was going to point out. Mine was leaking years ago when delivered and it needed fixed. Easiest thing to do was unbolt the engine from frame and jack it up a few inches for clearance. I think it took a 15/16 deep socket. It was definitely a pain.
Off to harbor freight for a replacement engine, and one of these "easier to change the oil" plug replacements was installed.
But now I can't remember if I put synthetic or conventional in there, and I'm not sure what the implications of that are, but I know I should change the oil.
Just go synthetic this time, can't go wrong
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Off to harbor freight for a replacement engine, and one of these "easier to change the oil" plug replacements was installed.
But now I can't remember if I put synthetic or conventional in there, and I'm not sure what the implications of that are, but I know I should change the oil.
You are just changing it based on time unless you are putting an abnormally massive numbers of hours on that snowblower. Oil type won't matter for those changes.
So like the F-150 Ecoboost, something like that?
/s